2nup350

the rear brakes do not act on the rim, they are on the axle.

Not even a little bit. The UF rating can be thought of as the "Frequency" of the noise you are eliminating. You need all those different values. You can use caps with higher voltage ratings, even different UF ratings as long as they are close. In the power circuit they won't change much but in the signal path they will change the sound. but you need something close to each value in the circuit minimum.

You probably are confused and think that they use rim pinch brakes- that would never be enough for three people and a heavy pedicab, all these cabs use disc brakes from Go Karts- mechanical caliper mounted to the frame and a disk keyed to the axle. I didn't have to change any of that except to buy a disk with a 1 inch keyed center instead of the 3/4 from the stock stuff.

https://www.parts-express.com/kemo-m031n-35-watt-u...try this amp if you replicate this project. there is a stereo version too. The FM/Bluetooth boards I've been buying from Ali Express will run on 12 volts as well, so power it all with a battery or wall wart. Parts Express has 'em for $5

I don't re-stuff cans, every time I see one I want to rip it out immediately. it's a visual red flag for me.

I've found that most really old sets, those from before 1960, are designed for 110 volt AC not the more common today 120 volt, my house has 122 volts. Rebalancing the circuit for this increased voltage really helps boost reception and kill signal noise

no good

read the parts list-surpluscenter.com carries the weld hubs, they need to be machined down a small amount to fit into the wheel, then welded into place.

making sleeves yourself is a no -go, unless you can broach cut the keyway. the weld hubs are a much quicker solution, lathe the outside and install.

beauty work.