Beagles

Looks good! I like the way you can use it for different sized stamps (without spacers). You could make the clamps longer and thread the lower one in several places, then use bolts from the top, rather than studs. I am going to make one.

I took a different approach. A 3/4" hardwood board with one edge cut on a 45* angle is used to crush the cardboard on the bend line. Holding the sharp edge down on the bend line also helps with getting a crisp bend. Works across grain or with it.

The biggest mistake you can make is putting too much info on your sign, you only need ``GARAGE SALE`` and an arrow. Make all the signs look alike. Remember, most people are driving by and have no time to absorb all those details. Get ready for 7 AM or earlier, and turn away nobody. It`s all over by 9 AM.I hate those stupid signs that are 6 X 6`` crammed with info the size of typewriter letters!

Hot rolled is what our "Grill Master" used here, just follow his instructions for removing the mill scale.

Oregon to Virginia......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zu6qI1Pq60whttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpIY1gOqh8QBeautiful new space!!

Nice benches! A couple of points, you could push the "J" hooks down a bit more to avoid having to cut them off later. At step #7 you could finish that concrete further by parging with mortar or parging cement, both available at big box stores.....gives it a finished professional look.When you use wooden forms it helps to oil them to stop the concrete from sticking, old motor oil is what I use.

Agree, this is really bad advice. Take the old ones off. Shingles do not last as it is, don't shorten the life of your new shingles by putting them over the old ones.Take this instructable down so nobody is misled!!

A 1.2 MM bit is equal to a 3/64 inch bit, one smaller than a 1/16 inch bit in a normal fractional set.That Amazon metric set you referred to gets a very poor rating, BTW.

That "stiff board" could also be a length of steel strapping. It comes in various widths and is free. Good Ible, might make a few.

Refer to the chart for drill sizes vs NG pressures. Generally, NG delivers 1000 BTU/Cu. FT. and propane 2550 BTU/Cu. Ft. if you want to calculate it.

Good idea! I made one similarly, but put a "VEE" groove in the holder where the holes are, and let the bit's body drop down into it. That way they all face the same direction and you can use that back row of holes.

Good idea, but a sewing machine light might be better, and cheaper.https://www.ebay.ca/itm/182583976453

Easy way to turn on a PS with a twenty pin plug, no need to cut into anything. Just bridge the "PS-ON" and a "Ground" a green as per my crude dwg.

You could use that to couple a trailer to a bike, but it is a little more complicated than it needs to be. See a simplified version here.https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Bicycle-Trailer-Hitch-Coupling/

When you ream the hole, push it all the way through the tire, the same with your plug so when it is released the plug sits midway in the hole (length wise). Otherwise there is nothing to grip the plug and keep it in place. You may find that the rubber style plugs seal better than those rope styles you show. Also, pay attention to the angle that screw/nail enters the tire.........makes it much easier to follow the same path..

Good job on yours!I made one of those, about thirty years back, for my Lil red. I made a welded frame from 3/4" conduits and covered it with 1/4" plywood, then again with corrugated pre-finished steel panelling used to enclose above ground pools.The top corners are bent tiles made from 18 ga. steel and painted. Still using it today, and has hauled lots of stuff.

A few more to keep you busy....https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=harbor+freight+metal+bender

Metal motor straps are easy to come by.....watch for that metal banding that comes on crates. Double over the ends and attach with screws. I keep a supply of them in various widths, on hand for multiple uses, including mounting odd ball motors.

I took a different approach when I wanted a disc sander. I found a belt driven Homecraft sander and built a stand for it. I prefer a belt driven version as you can choose your own speed....most sanders rotate too fast and burn things.Nice work on yours BTW.

Good Stuff! I once saw a kid put a Fiamm air horn on his bike......that really got everyone's attention.

It is a bunch of ideas collected over maybe forty years. Thanks for looking in.

You could glue on some ribbed vinyl carpet runner to get both a gripping and a soft surface. Pinching in the side tabs would give you a friction fit. Going to make some this way for my 5" Record vise.

Thanks for that idea. I have a bunch of MOTTS apple sauce, very durable, re-useable similar plastic cups that need organizing. Have to do some measuring to see if this will work for me. I assume a bit of tilting will allow one cup out at a time?

There are many videos out there showing the typical operation of these types of benders.Like this one......move up to 3:55 to skip the BS.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Rur3UCgUIs

When the bolts are greasy, I soak them in Varsol for a while, dump them in a basket and use a power washer on them.

I've never been a fan of those three legged stands, especially if your surface is not level. Pictured are some stands I made almost fifty years ago, long before all those Asian made stands flooded the market. I measured some in a store and came home and made my own. All the materials were obtained from a scrapyard. The key to the construction is the slip fit of the square tubing that was used.

You can easily extend the bottom plate, if only needed temporarily, like in this instructable.......https://www.instructables.com/Hand-Truck-Bottom-Plate-Extender/

You can easily extend the bottom plate, if only needed temporarily, like in this instructable....https://www.instructables.com/Hand-Truck-Bottom-Plate-Extender/

Steps 2 and 3 with photos have been added. The new photos should explain the use of this bender fully. And no, I do not have a video, or have the facilities to make one. But, thanks for asking, it is something to look at in the future.

The last picture shows the disassembly process. The thumbscrew on the left is loosened, the two bolts holding the foot on, are removed, and the bolt holding the clamp bar (on the far right) is taken out, and everything comes apart. Any work that could not otherwise be removed can now be easily slid off the end of the pipe and out safely. To answer your question "do I have a picture showing just a pile of parts?".....the answer is no. I used pictures that were already on file and that one was not one of them. I'll try to do that in the very near future, if that will clarify the construction.

You can find them at places like Home Depot or Lowes, etc. I was lucky enough to find mine (a small bag of them) at a garage sale.....they are not cheap at the retail level.Here is a link to what you are looking for.https://www.colonyhardware.com/product/ramset-fasteners/threaded-studs/P15-1558

Your design is the best one out there....absolutely!! I'll be making one of yours to hang on a post that mounts in my vise. First, I have to find the right band saw. Thanks for posting that saw helper.