CementTruck

Output: 12VDC, 1.6A

Thank for this Instructable! I have been trying to build an eggbot/spherebot for the last 2+ years. This is the closest I have ever gotten to a working machine.I have all the physical items built and assembled, but the wiring of the CNC shield and the software has always eluded me. There are tons of videos out there but they always seem to leave out crucial items.SO I can output files using CNCjs to the eggbot, and all the stepper motors and servo are moving, they are just jittering, or stuttering so badly (not smooth at all). My stepper drivers are set to the correct VREF. I have all 3 jumpers plugged in under the driver boards on the GRBL shield. Is this an issue that needs to be resolved in CNCjs? My test is a simple, large letter "O" so I can see the XY motors move from side…

Thank for this Instructable! I have been trying to build an eggbot/spherebot for the last 2+ years. This is the closest I have ever gotten to a working machine.I have all the physical items built and assembled, but the wiring of the CNC shield and the software has always eluded me. There are tons of videos out there but they always seem to leave out crucial items.SO I can output files using CNCjs to the eggbot, and all the stepper motors and servo are moving, they are just jittering, or stuttering so badly (not smooth at all). My stepper drivers are set to the correct VREF. I have all 3 jumpers plugged in under the driver boards on the GRBL shield. Is this an issue that needs to be resolved in CNCjs? My test is a simple, large letter "O" so I can see the XY motors move from side to side and the servo is picking up the pen when it moves to the inside. XY motors are just shaking like they are zig zagging the drawn line. My thought is that I may have selected too small a tool for the tool path and so the GCODE program is compensating by shaking the tool from side to side to complete the path.Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again.

Problems resolved! Blue and green wires were switched on one end of both the stepper motor cables.Thanks again for a great tutorial.

Actually, in looking at the the way the XY motors are moving, they are just oscillating in a step and not performing their full movements as prescribed by the GCODE. Looks very much like part of the problem is a VREF issue.

That's too funny. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a Sienci LongMill and have been trying to figure out where I will be parking it in my 2.5 car garage that's already packed with other machinery that only one car can fit. My first thought was to do something very similar to your plan and the secondary plan to was to build a flip down "Murphy Bed" type CNC table like the Makita one in your pictures. I may do hybrid and will probably be nicking some of your ideas.FYI, I voted for you.

Impressive! I bought a 40K laser recently and am seriously underwhelmed by the bed area. The bed size on your machine is expansive.

My Finnish buddy says "Sisu" roughly translates to "Guts".

I found that removing the rear grill lessens some of the Piper Cub noise. I opted to leave the front grill on for safety reasons though.Looks good! I see the front grill is mounted flush to the door. Good call. Doing this allowed for the frame to be less beefy. I mounted mine inside the hole because the fan was pretty large and heavy. Mounting it flush like you did would have caused my door to warp inward into the attic due to the weight of the fan. Glad someone else is getting some use out of the idea; Thanks for sharing the pics.

Good to know. The machine looks like its built like a tank.I just hope I can still get parts for it.

In the Philippines this purple yam is called Ube (Ooh-beh). It is made into Ice Cream and scores of other deserts. I don't think I've ever had it in a savory dish. Ube Ice Cream is one of my favorites. Like coconut milk before it, I'm glad this tuber is finally getting mainstream recognition.

Roland CAMM-1 Desktop Signmaker PNC-950

So I'm picking up an old Vinyl Cutter who's manufacturer is no longer releasing drivers for OS Win 7 and newer. They have stopped all support for the cutter, in fact. The machine still operates if you have it tied to an older PC with the correct drivers and operating system. I will try to fake the motherboard out by seeing if any of the newer drivers for the cutters newer siblings work, but if they don't how difficult would it be to just replace the cutter's motherboard with an Arduino and run the rest of the hardware as is?

@00meat, I'm thinking of doing something similar to an old Vinyl Cutter. How did your project go? Did you post your project on Instructables?

Great idea. Those bags get expensive though. I will be trying the vacuum storage bags uses for storing clothes. They seem to be reusable, although I don't know how many times I'd be able to reuse the bags before the bag falls apart. I guess when the bags fall apart I could cannibalize the vacuum port and glue it to the lid of a 5 gallon paint bucket.

I really like the way you incorporated the rules graphic in the corner.I was planning on 3D printing a "travel version "board for this game. New boardgames come in square boxes now, and their game boards fold in fourths instead of halves (like in ancient times). So I thought maybe I could use this idea incorporate 3 hidden hinges in the board. Two would fold one way, and the other would fold the opposite direction. When the board is fully folded the recess for the rings would all be on the inside. My 3D printers can only do 200 or 220 mm so I would have to print each fourth of the board individually to make a full sized board. Just a pipe dream right now. The immediate issue would be that the center peg in the middle of the board would have a pretty loose hole due to the wiggle …

I really like the way you incorporated the rules graphic in the corner.I was planning on 3D printing a "travel version "board for this game. New boardgames come in square boxes now, and their game boards fold in fourths instead of halves (like in ancient times). So I thought maybe I could use this idea incorporate 3 hidden hinges in the board. Two would fold one way, and the other would fold the opposite direction. When the board is fully folded the recess for the rings would all be on the inside. My 3D printers can only do 200 or 220 mm so I would have to print each fourth of the board individually to make a full sized board. Just a pipe dream right now. The immediate issue would be that the center peg in the middle of the board would have a pretty loose hole due to the wiggle room that would have to be built into the board to be able to fold on the hinges.

Twiddling my thumbs waiting for my Tarantula to arrive from China. I'm a 3D printer noob.After months of lurking on sites, reading up on low cost printer specs and scouring youtube I selected the Tarantula. Looking forward to its arrival.

This looks very reminiscent of the home built scooters that used to race around our neighborhood in the Philippines. Their wheels were old ball bearings.

I would really hate to waste a mini Arduino on each instance of this device I build.

My initial idea is to get a gender-bender (little plastic phone line connector part with a female RJ11 jack on each end), bust it open and solder 2 wires to the internal wires and connect it to a bright LED. If the LED proves to be too much of a draw for the headset to work then plan B would be to use an external power supply and use the headset power to trigger the light to turn on/blink. A Schmitt trigger/OP Amp could work (maybe) as the switching mechanism. I have a background in low voltage electrical, but that was 20 yrs. ago, and I barely remember what I had for lunch yesterday (pretty sure it was chicken salad).

silly question. everyone knows cows don't use brakes...they use the horn. ;)

Very nice. You could also zip tie the trigger switch on and plug the bandsaw to a cheap power strip with a toggle switch.

cm?! Umm captain "AMERICA"!!! Shouldn't have done this project in metric. Sacrilege. ;)Just kidding. Awesome build. Good luck on the props contest.