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Nice job on the instructable! I have made numerous stencils with my Epilog and usually use high quality Mylar or 2-4 mil Polyimide (Kapton) film. I always tell others to take your time to dial in raster settings for the best aperture edges. Also, even though GC Prevue now charges for the gerber viewer, I print my stencils straight to the laser with it. No image processing needed. One of the advantages with an Epilog is that nearly any program can send data to it. Most of my laser projects are done in Microsoft Visio. I also use AutoCAD, GC Prevue, Illustrator, and to prove the ease of an Epilog to someone else, I have even used Word and Excel. I did a wine glass from Word with Curver WordArt letters.

Great job doing all the research for this to be approved for flight. That is a lot of work in itself. Also, great job making Sofie's dream come true.

Excellent job! I work for a non-profit company in California, USA, that employees people with disabilities and we use our laser cutter to make all sorts of similar jigs and tools like this. Great to see this posted for others to see.

Nice design for a simple fume extractor. Since I have some spare muffin fans and access to a laser cutter, I may make some of similar design to donate to the local hackerlab.As for comments about lead and soldering, there are many misconceptions regarding the danger of lead exposure from soldering. Much of the confusion is drawn from the concept of Lead Oxide (CAS # 1317-36-8) which is what forms on the surface of molten lead when it comes in contact with oxygen in the air. However, the risk of lead oxide formation is very low when under 500C. Since tin/lead alloy soldering usually occurs with irons with tip temps around 350C, the risk of "lead fumes" is extremely minimal during soldering. The greater concern is with the fumes from the flux. One should always familiarize thems...

Nice design for a simple fume extractor. Since I have some spare muffin fans and access to a laser cutter, I may make some of similar design to donate to the local hackerlab.As for comments about lead and soldering, there are many misconceptions regarding the danger of lead exposure from soldering. Much of the confusion is drawn from the concept of Lead Oxide (CAS # 1317-36-8) which is what forms on the surface of molten lead when it comes in contact with oxygen in the air. However, the risk of lead oxide formation is very low when under 500C. Since tin/lead alloy soldering usually occurs with irons with tip temps around 350C, the risk of "lead fumes" is extremely minimal during soldering. The greater concern is with the fumes from the flux. One should always familiarize themselves with the SDS sheet for the flux in the solder they are using to determine appropriate ventilation requirements. A high tolerance for noxious fumes does not negate their negative effects to your health.(disclaimer: 26 year Process Engineering professional in Electronics Manufacturing with responsibilities in establishing safe soldering practices according to industry standards, OSHA guidelines, and just plain common sense)

Sorry for the delay, just saw this in my email connected to Instructable that gets flooded and I finally started cleaning it up. It worked really well, but as you suggest, the ice only lasted about 9 miles of my 13 mile commute, so it really only allowed me to survive for half the drive, before I had to at lesat crack the windows for airflow. The 86 Accord was retired a year ago as my daily driver, but still have the cooler setup in the shed. Saw it today and actually thought about tossing it....then I saw this question in my email. Funny

Very nice! Well done instructable and nice little beginner antbot design. Thanks for including all sources so that others can easily replicate the design. I have a pet peeve against instructables that "use a motor from a printer I had laying around" that makes it difficult to copy.The only suggestion I have to mention as an "upgrade" would be to reduce weight by cleaning up wiring, etc, and then re-add that weight in strategic locations (lip of the wedge, at each wheel, etc) to improve it's attack capability.Thanks for the extra motor information as well. Sometimes, what seems so complicated for someone looking to make their own can easily be explained by someone like yourself, but is not always clearly communicated. Your motor info is clear, concise, and helpful.