author
1Instructables9,482Views33CommentsFederal Republic of Channel Islands
Hacker, modder and general 'Can't be fixed? A Challenge!!' guy.
  • 4x4x4 DotStar LED Cube on Glass PCBs

    Interesting! Incidentally thin copper can be scavenged from defunct LiPo E cig cells if they have enough surface area. watch out for the nasty chemicals though! You can also find thin Cu foil in some laptops. Maybe worth a try?

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  • World First 9v Battery That Can Be Recharged From a USB Port

    Hi. Yes you can actually get prismatic LiFePO4 cells that easily fit inside a 9V case.As others have said this is not suitable for smoke alarms but items like multimeters and guitar pedals are ideal as relatively low power usage. A fix for low efficiency is to Litz wire the coil, also use low leakage capacitors. Ceramic ones *may* be suitable but watch the Vmax and other such parameters. USB micro connector is also a good idea though I suggest putting a rubber cap on it when not in use so dust stays out.

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  • Hi. Incidentally if anyone has a non working unit please feel free to send it in my direction.A lot of the time I can fix these and parts are hard to come by especially the (expensive) LSI IC.Also some recent camcorders eg the miniDVD sort have what seems to be a colour sequential LCD because it has the rainbow effect. These are a lot better than simple B/W units as can be driven at higher speed but these typically can also be used with a -11 to -18V supply in addition to the usual +3.3 and +5 needed.

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  • Interesting salt water trick!Incidentally though a smart phone will work the blue OLED degrades a lot faster. The outer coating stops some blue and UVA light getting through so if you remove this (cough Samsung S3 Neo /cough) very carefully then you can cascade multiple displays to increase the build area. Its possible to work around the degradation by mapping any weak areas and decreasing brightness of adjacent pixels to compensate, then increase layer dwell time.Putting the whole thing in a yellow tinted box will deal with ambient/sunlight damaging the polymers and besides which older displays are far better as the resolution is less of a problem.The big problem is lack of a cheap resin.

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  • To some extent you can also make some using silver gilding foil and an ultrasonic cleaner.I made enough to test for another classified project but alas it didn't work.(note: email me for the FOIA request number)

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  • On some cars alternate lock/unlock very quickly will set the alarm off. Don't ask how I found out! :-)

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  • Has anyone run into bad crystals on the Uno? Seems to be more common on "cheap" units, I had it happen before but evidently the real cause might have been a dodgy USB-serial chip. Alas its hard to change those, it can be done with a rework station but its a complete horse. Symptoms: TX/RX lights not working, yet everything else does and if you swap socketed chip into working unit all is then well, it will run code fine just not update.

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  • Great idea!Its a shame some enterprising manufacturer can't make smart 18650s with NFC reading ability (so any smart phone can check a bare cell) and these magnetic connectors built in. Also it might cut the number of ecig/model/etc related accidents as people switch to the new safer connectors.I would avoid soldering though and use spot welding, with 3D printed shroud that permits venting and mechanically shields the wires at both ends, and contains the NFC chip, cell protection etc.Once made a pack of LiFePO4 (cheap and nasty) and it might have worked for years if the soldering process hadn't weakened all those cells.

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  • Same idea re. RTL8191SE, as I have dozens of them.Alas the newer cards have no Ubuntu support but old dinosaurs like this are still 802.11n so more than adequate for p!r@t£b0xen etc. Or for that matter solar relay stations for those times you need Internet in the garden.

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  • Also relevant. I have had "fake" units with defective 12 MHz crystals, the fix is to replace the part with a genuine unit. Also bad regulators, defective "FakeCaps" (tm), micros which only emulate the responses expected for "Hello World", etc. FFS.

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  • Hi, just a heads up but some IR LEDs are more sensitive than others. I found that the VCSEL 900nm ones from optical mice don't like being overloaded and turn into expensive 0.01mW LEDs at much over 900uA input.If you are unsure its best to simply use the time honored techinque of putting an inline resistor and reverse polarity protection diode to prevent it from being damaged.It would probably also work well with DVB-T sticks that have lost their remotes, without which the stick won't turn on so Windows can install the driver.

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  • Hi, also another good experiment is to get some EL phosphor (I used old expired powder on Ebay) as this is a lot safer but will not be as spectacularly bright. Ask Gwent, they sometimes have some and so does Dr. Jarek and other suppliers. Look for anything that says "EL phosphor" or "microcircuit materials".. :-) The newer white material can be processed to get just red or green emitters out of it with some careful hackery!

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  • I have to do this because my screen has severe ghosting and is basically unusable (old age maybe)- the new screen looks fine in comparison.Pretty sure that the newer panels are actually superior quality as the image is noticeably sharper and more defined. Hot wire cutter is also feasible with <44 gauge SS wire if you want to salvage the old screen and also less messy.

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  • Re. ghosting, the fix for that is to use a panel with a similar -1.xx voltage to the old one. Its actually easy to do if you have a number of spare panels for another project, +/- 0.02 works then simply adjust the trimpot for best picture with least ghosting.

    The easy way to avoid troublesome filing of metal and excess thickness is to buy just the EPD glass which can be had for about £15 apiece. The old metal can be separated from the broken glass using hot 44 gauge wire (couple of 9V batteries + some tension) and the new screen simply glued in place with double sided tape.

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