Introduction: Nose Guards for a Drop Through Longboard
you know the situation: trying some awesome new slide your longboard throws you off, you land on your butt and your board is up & away to crash into the next stone it can find. And as if the disgrace of the unsuccesful slide and the hurting butt would not be enough, your board got itself a big fat chip from whatever it crashed into. But behold, it does not have to be this way! Time to armor up your board and safe its tender nose from the mean and brutal world (besides it will cause a whole new array of sounds when crashing into peoples heels, but that's another story...)
If this convinced you that you immediately and under all circumstances need a noseguard STOP! Instead of hitting up the next onlineshop to order some noseguards, safe some money and build your own one. Done in no time with some scrap metal, some tweezers, a drill and a little angle grinder like the infamous Dremel (wear your safety googles, the helmet of the workbench!). Of course some minimal skills with power tools come also in handy but really, it's a piece of cake.
On we go!
If this convinced you that you immediately and under all circumstances need a noseguard STOP! Instead of hitting up the next onlineshop to order some noseguards, safe some money and build your own one. Done in no time with some scrap metal, some tweezers, a drill and a little angle grinder like the infamous Dremel (wear your safety googles, the helmet of the workbench!). Of course some minimal skills with power tools come also in handy but really, it's a piece of cake.
On we go!
Step 1: Metal Scavenging
find yourself some scrap metal! got mine from some old cupboard or something...basement base stock
Step 2: Drill Them Holes
put your future noseguard on the tip of the board and mark where the holes go
wrapping it in a piece of paper helps with the marking since most metals (especially the black one I used) don't really like to be drawn on somehow
and then drill, ideally with corectly sized drill (attention, no pictures provided! If unsure how that drilling thing works, ask mom or dad...)
if you want to get all fancy, smooth the edges of the holes with a bigger drill afterwards until smooth like baby butts. However, if you like skretching your fingers from time to time for manly hands, leave them as they are...
wrapping it in a piece of paper helps with the marking since most metals (especially the black one I used) don't really like to be drawn on somehow
and then drill, ideally with corectly sized drill (attention, no pictures provided! If unsure how that drilling thing works, ask mom or dad...)
if you want to get all fancy, smooth the edges of the holes with a bigger drill afterwards until smooth like baby butts. However, if you like skretching your fingers from time to time for manly hands, leave them as they are...
Step 3: Sparks!
some of you might have noticed that a certain problem arose with our current ansatz: our nose guard interfers with the trunks. Time to get out the Dremel and make some sparks! Mark the spot that is in the way, make two cuts with the Dremel and bend up that little part to give your precious trunks the space they deserve!
Step 4: The Last Twist
put your trunks on your board and simply fix the noseguard on the bottom with the first 2 screws.
now the moment has come for your pliers to shine! bend the noseguard so it protects the full front of the board.
again optional but helpful to avoid cuts, scars and hepatitis: try avoiding sharp edges and bend those over as well
now the moment has come for your pliers to shine! bend the noseguard so it protects the full front of the board.
again optional but helpful to avoid cuts, scars and hepatitis: try avoiding sharp edges and bend those over as well
Step 5: Marvel
aaaaand done. almost. marvel at your wonderful creation. full of awe. now you are done.
congrats, your board is now even closer to an armed medieval destrier. now go shred some hills...
congrats, your board is now even closer to an armed medieval destrier. now go shred some hills...