Introduction: Recon Cs-6 Jamming Mod and a Few Other Mods Too
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About: i'm passionate about inventing. some of the basic things I've made include a taser, lunchbox spot cooler, samurai sword cat scratch post, motorised straw, foot pedal toilet seat lifter. I love down hill mounta…
A very simple way to solve the problem of jamming, giving the cs-6 a bit more kick and modding the cocking system.
i dont know if this will work on a recon that still has the air restrictors, but in theory it shouldnt matter.
if i've missed any tools/parts out, or haven't explained something, improvise, that's all i did.
tools/parts:
Recon cs-6
thin plastic (i used an ice cream container lid)
bottle cap
Rubberband
hot glue gun
Hammer
Screwdriver
file
hacksaw
lighter
i dont know if this will work on a recon that still has the air restrictors, but in theory it shouldnt matter.
if i've missed any tools/parts out, or haven't explained something, improvise, that's all i did.
tools/parts:
Recon cs-6
thin plastic (i used an ice cream container lid)
bottle cap
Rubberband
hot glue gun
Hammer
Screwdriver
file
hacksaw
lighter
Step 1: Fixing the Jamming
ok this is actually hard to describe, but...
the reason the gun jams is because the barrel spike squshes your dart against the slot the spike would normally slide into. to fix this problem, we're going to add an additional cover so the dart cant be pushed out of the cradle to were it can get jammed.
cut a piece of your ice cream lid to the length of the cradle which the barrel spike slides between. cut the width of the plastic long enough so that the ridge of the barrel spike can still slide between, try not to make it too tight though.
You'll need to bend the plastic so it fits nicely, i heated the plastic with a lighter to make it easier to bend.
Round the top corner edge on each piece of plastic closest to the spike.
hot glue in place.
jamming fixed.
the reason the gun jams is because the barrel spike squshes your dart against the slot the spike would normally slide into. to fix this problem, we're going to add an additional cover so the dart cant be pushed out of the cradle to were it can get jammed.
cut a piece of your ice cream lid to the length of the cradle which the barrel spike slides between. cut the width of the plastic long enough so that the ridge of the barrel spike can still slide between, try not to make it too tight though.
You'll need to bend the plastic so it fits nicely, i heated the plastic with a lighter to make it easier to bend.
Round the top corner edge on each piece of plastic closest to the spike.
hot glue in place.
jamming fixed.
Step 2: Internals: What You Dont Need
this section is to modify and take out crap you dont need,
the two pieces pictured are locking mechanisms, the one that is usually attached to your trigger stops you from being able to fire the blaster while the cocking slide is right back, and the other is piece is to lock the clip release button, you dont need them.
next, we're going to modify the cocking slide so that even when the blaster is primed you can still move the cocking slide back.
the button on the barrel slide just needs to be MORE slanted so it can slip, instead of being held
Release the barrel+slide from the blaster, take out the screws and spring which hold that wee button up, simply give the button more slant by using a lighter to heat the plastic and then press something flat on the hot plastic to get the desired angle, trim any excess with a knife (dont heat too much so the button becomes deformed), when thats att done, re-assemble button.
the two pieces pictured are locking mechanisms, the one that is usually attached to your trigger stops you from being able to fire the blaster while the cocking slide is right back, and the other is piece is to lock the clip release button, you dont need them.
next, we're going to modify the cocking slide so that even when the blaster is primed you can still move the cocking slide back.
the button on the barrel slide just needs to be MORE slanted so it can slip, instead of being held
Release the barrel+slide from the blaster, take out the screws and spring which hold that wee button up, simply give the button more slant by using a lighter to heat the plastic and then press something flat on the hot plastic to get the desired angle, trim any excess with a knife (dont heat too much so the button becomes deformed), when thats att done, re-assemble button.
Step 3: Extra Kick
this is like a rubberband mod for a NF.
im not sure if i used a bottle cap or something smaller, you just need a lid (or something similar) the same diameter of the plunger.
take the stock, and push out the pins in the top and bottom of the clip section (use something small so the hole isnt enlarged, i used a small screwdriver). once removed pull the rods out.
grab a nice sized rubber band and insert a looped section into the hole where one of your rods went, push one of the pins back in so it passes through the loop, with that side secure, pull the remaining end of the rubberband to the opposite hole and put the pin through that one too.
if your recon has a cover over the plunger when it's primed then simply cut the cover off (when its NOT primed), you'll still need the section which screws on the end.
Then take the bottle cap lid and cut the edges so there's a cradle, hot glue the cap on the back of the plunger, this is so your rubberband won't slip off.
done, you're all ready to go, re-assemble your gun.
im not sure if i used a bottle cap or something smaller, you just need a lid (or something similar) the same diameter of the plunger.
take the stock, and push out the pins in the top and bottom of the clip section (use something small so the hole isnt enlarged, i used a small screwdriver). once removed pull the rods out.
grab a nice sized rubber band and insert a looped section into the hole where one of your rods went, push one of the pins back in so it passes through the loop, with that side secure, pull the remaining end of the rubberband to the opposite hole and put the pin through that one too.
if your recon has a cover over the plunger when it's primed then simply cut the cover off (when its NOT primed), you'll still need the section which screws on the end.
Then take the bottle cap lid and cut the edges so there's a cradle, hot glue the cap on the back of the plunger, this is so your rubberband won't slip off.
done, you're all ready to go, re-assemble your gun.