Introduction: Truley Free Electricity

How to use existing technology and devices to create a electrical generator that is powered by thermal energy.

Step 1: Step One

Getting acquainted with the technology used.
first I want to show the "hand boiler or love meter" I'm sure you've seen these but didn't know if you knew its name so I'm posting its picture.

Basically the boiler works on thermodynamic principles when you "heat" or hold it in your hand the colored liquid starts to "boil" and "evaporate into a gaseous state" rising up to a higher point and re-"condensing" when in contact with "colder surfaces" much like a whiskey thump,then to fall back to the "evaporator as a liquid to be heated again" continuing the cycle.

Step 2: Step Two

Still getting acquainted, now I want to show you yet another old technology the "tesla turbine" it has always been deemed useless for free energy because it only converts hydrodynamic energy or liquid pressure into torque meaning that it dose not create more energy or simply input=output for those inclined but it basically uses liquid,steam,air-friction against smooth plates to create torrsion wich causes a vortex of swirling liquid so the input of the device is on the outer rim and the liquid disperses through a vent toward the center of the turbine. you will find Instructables here on building one. as an extra bonus the metal disk help the condensing of gas along the way.

Step 3: Step Three

still getting acquainted,OK so far you got the idea we are going to use the colored liquid to force the turbine to spin which is true but we still need more devices to make electricity now I want to show you the electric motor we will use for a generator the part numbers are visible too so it will help you in your design though I will show my preliminary drawings of the final machine we are building I will not show it in a complete picture as each part is placed in different areas of the home and insulated tubing going between is not color coded so a complete picture is to confusing in my opinion.

any way this is the motor it is a high voltage low rpm dc brush type permanent magnet motor perfect for our project.

Step 4: Step Four

still getting acquainted, As you might have already guessed the motor is attached to the turbine via a sleeve and a couple of set screws I opted for a rubber bushing to silence any vibration you choose if thats important to you too,here is the optional charge controller if you want to charge deep cycle batteries by the way this schematic comes from a home wind turbie design on a free energy site if you need help building the circuit. without it the generator will produce very high dc voltage which is known to jump or arc a good distance so you'll want to enclose the final device before firing it up.

Step 5: Step Five

still getting acquainted, this is a rough depiction of a reversal valve manifold I drew in a few seconds to show you , basically it uses an electrically charged electromagnet to draw back the plunger which will block passage to outlet1 and divert flow through outlet2 these are inside any heatpump a/c unit, hopefully the depiction is good enough to help you understand its basic opperation we will be useing it to redirect our colored liquid in the desired directions we want it to go, because in summer the attic is hottest while indoor air is cooler ofcourse that is different in winter months and still it is electricly actuated but that is ok we wont be disconecting from the grid so we will have power available to us even if our device is not running but when it is running we will actually be able to sale power back to the grid.that means youll soon be rich because this thing screams it makes plenty more than you will need for your self.

Step 6: Step Six

now for the insider secrets ,the colored liquid we are using is a commercial grade alcohol others may be used this one is selected for my application the real thing to note here is the fact that the liquid has a boiling boint meaning it vaporizes at a certian tempoature and will reapear when it reaches jut below that point now if you got ahead and your system isnt working and are thinking maybe my alcohol isn't the same your probably right and should see page 10 for information on this subject.

though most of these liquids are inert when in its condensated form it must stay atleast just a few degrees below that else it is highly flammable and a toxic vapor when inhaled or if it was to accumulate in an unventilated space poisonous and combustible so do be careful using/handling it please

I take no responsibility for your health life or property for your misuse or if you super heat it to high pressure rupture or explosion.

now that said because in most temperate climates all we need to make this system work is a warm temperature of less than 80degC and a cooler temperature around 20-30 degrees less than boiling in most cases we are good accept in the height of summer when outside temps are above 70's I suggest a simple solar panel ,to not only operate a cooling fan on our condenser but cast shade upon it. any good panel for automotive/marine recharge use should be sufficient in fact if you can afford the one in the 12-24v@3-5watt range you may even be able to power your microcontroler and solenoids too ,which means its your choice to stay connected to the grid which I know it is tempting to say take your wires off my house.

I give a picture of a working tesla turbine made from harddrive disk and lexan ,I found it here on Instructables so I know this part of the how to is covered.

Step 7: Step Seven

now we see the preliminary or first drawing of the system this it is not yet complete so don't go off building & buying yet.

Here we see the simple principal that the system works off of now we get in to the nitty gritty or important stuff like what the micro controller and reversal valves are for.

note: all tubing and cylinders should be stainless steel to prevent creation of corrosive acids in the system which can cause a rupture also a good vacuum should be pulled before filling it to dry any moisture.

This first drawing will only work for you if you live in arctic climates where outside temperatures stay way below 70'S- but realistically how many of us do so we got to think of basic principals here

The condenser must be higher than the evaporator for our system to work so we will want to move both the condenser indoor to cooler climates below mid 70's and heat our evaporator electrically "which must be below our condenser" with heating chord like the veins you feel in moms heating pad or electric blankets this is commercially available I leave it to you to find it.

meanwhile just try to remember condenser above evaporator below and generator in between.

Step 8: Step Eight

OK so you got the gist of the system ,time for more of those design secrets I keep slowly spilling out.

First I want to talk about gas pressure and volume without really talking about it ..yeah I said that ,in general when you fill a cylinder with a temperate gas you only fill to 80% of its capacity to prevent rupture,the same applies here 80% of the evaporator's capacity not 80% of both but you will want both the evaporator and condenser to have the same capacity, in the event all methanol is in either state hot or cold.

My suggestions on placement of the fluid containers are now described, an evaporator should be placed 1 in attic for summer use and one in the basement heated for winter use, and an condenser should be placed shaded on the roof for mild temperatures with fan and one on the first floor of your house with fan during hotter times and valves placed in all three lines depicted in the first drawing to divert flow.

Mind you we haven't even began discussing the microcontroller yet or its programming or function.

For now I want to get you acquainted with the power inverter in this schematic ,this is required to convert your 12vdc into ac current to use from the outlet this particular one dose not like inductive loads like ie-"electric motors" but it can be modified to produce upto 1kwatts or one thousand watts by upgrading the 2 transistors to higher current ratings and also the transformer too to a higher rating. you can buy one that can handle inductors if you can afford one,Also know you can place as many of these as your battery bank and generator will support in a single cycle.

See the text on the next step for details on the inverter.
Else you can replace electric motors used in the home with dc motors and power them using dc.

Step 9: Step Nine

ok finaly we'r here. if you are wondering will this realy work I have to answer you ,"Yes ofcorse it will work it is the laws of physics so it has to work", here is the text I told you about for the inverter-
Have you ever wanted to run a TV, stereo or other appliance while on the road or camping? Well, this inverter should solve that problem. It takes 12 VDC and steps it up to 120 VAC. The wattage depends on which tansistors you use for Q1 and Q2, as well as how "big" a transformer you use for T1. The inverter can be constructed to supply anywhere from 1 to 1000 (1 KW) watts.

Important: If you have any questions or problems with the circuit, see the forum topic linked to in the Notes section. It will answer all your questions and provide links to many other (and better) inverter circuits.

Part Total Qty. Description Substitutions
C1, C2 2 68 uf, 25 V Tantalum Capacitor
R1, R2 2 10 Ohm, 5 Watt Resistor
R3, R4 2 180 Ohm, 1 Watt Resistor
D1, D2 2 HEP 154 Silicon Diode
Q1, Q2 2 2N3055 NPN Transistor (see "Notes")
T1 1 24V, Center Tapped Transformer (see "Notes")
MISC 1 Wire, Case, Receptical (For Output)

1.Q1 and Q2, as well as T1, determine how much wattage the inverter can supply. With Q1,Q2=2N3055 and T1= 15 A, the inverter can supply about 300 watts. Larger transformers and more powerful transistors can be substituted for T1, Q1 and Q2 for more power.

2.The easiest and least expensive way to get a large T1 is to re-wind an old microwave transformer. These transformers are rated at about 1KW and are perfect. Go to a local TV repair shop and dig through the dumpster until you get the largest microwave you can find. The bigger the microwave the bigger transformer. Remove the transformer, being careful not to touch the large high voltage capacitor that might still be charged. If you want, you can test the transformer, but they are usually still good. Now, remove the old 2000 V secondary, being careful not to damage the primary. Leave the primary in tact. Now, wind on 12 turns of wire, twist a loop (center tap), and wind on 12 more turns. The guage of the wire will depend on how much current you plan to have the transformer supply. Enamel covered magnet wire works great for this. Now secure the windings with tape. Thats all there is to it. Remember to use high current transistors for Q1 and Q2. The 2N3055's in the parts list can only handle 15 amps each.

3.Remember, when operating at high wattages, this circuit draws huge amounts of current. Don't let your battery go dead.

4.Since this project produces 120 VAC, you must include a fuse and build the project in a case.

5.You must use tantalum capacitors for C1 and C2. Regular electrolytics will overheat and explode. And yes, 68uF is the correct value. There are no substitutions.

6.This circuit can be tricky to get going. Differences in transformers, transistors, parts substitutions or anything else not on this page may cause it to not function.

7.If you want to make 220/240 VAC instead of 120 VAC, you need a transformer with a 220/240 primary (used as the secondary in this circuit as the transformer is backwards) instead of the 120V unit specified here. The rest of the circuit stays the same. But it takes twice the current at 12V to produce 240V as it does 120V.

useing a 240v transformer means you can either replace mains taps in your home and compleatly dissconnect from the grid or conect to the resale station provided by your local grid provider.

The microcontroler and its function ,mainly the controler has to switch heating chords,cooling fans and valve switching and monitoring all canisters at all times to condense and cool gases left residual in unused canisters and maintain safe opperation pressures and monitor batteries and charge controler aswell as decide when to allow electricity diverted back to the grid systems.

I leave programming the controler to you and your suppliers I dont know wich one you will choose I use parallax boards when possible you may want to automate more systems in your house as I did.

The inverter produces upto 1Kwatt with modifications but you may need to modify further for your local grid to find it usefull and find out from them what is required,also if you figure out how to make this inverter useble on inductive loads do contact me with your schematics only if it still supports 1kw or more.
Remember that more than one inverter can be used in any given application.
This was meant to solve the need not for proffit,but hey if there is proffit in it, what the hey help someone else out even me.

My final words:
Ok so you read and understood all you seen, now I question can you build it?

If not I will do work for money.I could not afford to patent the idea for being out of work but I guess it is copyrighted here and the fact that original files nest on my computer so the rest is up to you.
you can contact me initialy by email for consultation/fabrication/install at this address
iamdenteddisk@yahoo-dont forget to add the dot com to it.

Else wise I consider my work on free electricity done and am now off to solve the problems of starveing children and bad drinking water and the futility of war over money. that I guess will be my next few instructables. untill then I will sing a song of praise and dedicate this device to the memory of my father.

Step 10: Done

Now the most important part of this information this must be used correctly else I am sure you can kill your self so if your not sure you can handle these liquids dont try leave it up to a professional.

ok so here is the actual boiling points of these suitable liquids and what is after is whay the actual bp may vary.
liquidtype boiling point
water bp100degC
isopropyl bp80.3degC
ethanol bp78.4degC
methanol bp 64.7degC acetone bp56.5degC
there are benzines, amonia's and freons that can be used aswell.
fully depending on application and ability to condensate back into liquid form.
now to explain variations in these numbers and actual numbers with the liquids you buy

The first most common reason for varaiance is elevation
The second most common reason for variance is purity, is your obtained chemical pure?

see the explanation below ifnot then you must figure out if it is still useable asin what is the other substances and how will they effect our system?

make sure to read this information carefuly
An azeotrope is a mixture of two or more pure compounds (chemicals) in such a ratio that its composition cannot be changed by simple distillation.[1] This is because when an azeotrope is boiled, the resulting vapor has the same ratio of constituents as the original mixture of liquids. As the composition is unchanged by boiling, azeotropes are also known as constant boiling mixtures (especially in older texts). The word azeotrope is derived from the Greek words for "boil" and "change", combining with prefix "no" to give the overall meaning "no change on boiling".

Types of azeotropes
Each azeotrope has a characteristic boiling point. The boiling point of an azeotrope is either less than the boiling points of any of its constituents (a positive azeotrope), or greater than the boiling point of any of its constituents (a negative azeotrope).

A well known example of a positive azeotrope is 95.6% ethanol and 4.4% water (by weight). Ethanol boils at 78.4degC, water boils at 100degC, but the azeotrope boils at 78.1degC, which is lower than either of its constituents. Indeed 78.1degC is the minimum temperature at which any ethanol/water solution can boil. It is generally true that a positive azeotrope boils at a lower temperature than any other ratio of its constituents. Positive azeotropes are also called minimum boiling mixtures.

now from the chart of useable liquids you must select wich will most perfectly match your application takeing into account its tempurature range ,characteristics,elevation,its and anything it is mixed with's effects on materials used the enviroment and whether or not your able to containment is adequit for either state hot or cold. short and long term efects even the what if senarios of rupture.
some of these chemicals require a special license to purchase in any case ethics life preservation/safty must be of utmost importants. beyond that it is in your hands.

I suggest you use either water,isopropyl or ehtel alchohol,propane,freons or even fuels like kerosene
But for safty I suggest and even emplore you to keep away from benzines and methonol if your wether elevation zone permits else you will need certian special hazarous materials licensing and special permits to build and opperate such a system.