I made this ible in a rush so that I could enter the explore science contest so anyways lets get started

This is the 3rd version of my Fpv tank AKA Roverbot v2 the ROV is still at its prototype stage. Going on, if you have built an FPV tank before then I assume you have experienced the vibration or unstable view on the monitor. Now if you are going to use this outdoors to do some basic science exploration or documentary it would be a bad idea especially when you are moving the fpv tank. Not only will you have a hard time looking for your target but you will also get dizzy as you look at the monitor and control it. To solve this problem I used a device called "Gimbal" a gimbal is device that can stabilize the camera in all axis. In this build I used a cheap gimbal used for beginners its called a 2 axis gimbal wherein you have the Pitch and roll movement both of which can be controlled via controller.

Here is an example of a 2 axis gimbal

Now that you know whats a Gimbal lets go to my build! Now that you have the fix for the camera stability i guess you'd just put that gimbal on your fpv tank right? Well you can but you would need more space so I decided to use some new parts for this build instead of using the old tamiya gearbox and tank set.

Before buying the parts please proceed to the next steps or even wait for me to finish the build myself. because you might learn something from my mistake or you could make something better for a cheaper price!

Parts

75:1 micro metal gearbox

Nylon spacer

Pololu track set 30T

Micro metal gearbox bracket

DRV8833 Dual Motor Driver

2 axis gimbal

JST connectors Male and Female

Old Tamiya tank parts

Arduino mini/ clone in my case im using a local arduino mini called gizduino mini

Your desired Transmitter and receiver set i'm using TX RX/module

2s Li-po Battery

1x 7805 5v regulator

Printed parts! Yes I had to 3d design and print it with my Flashforge Creator pro

anyways PM me for the sketchup files if you are interested i'll try to reply If I feel like doing so hahahaha

M3 Bolt and nut a lot 20pcs just to be sure

Step 1: Assembly

Again I built this in a rush so bare with my steps

So after printing my chassis I immediately assembled it

In this step I used a nylon spacer the one in "violet" to give the wheel some space to make it move freely.

Step 2: Battery Holder + Gimbal Plate

I told you guys to review my build first before making right well thats because we will eventually have different parts. In my case i am not using a standard 2S li-po battery. I am using a 2s 4000mah battery from an old 4s pack this 2s pack is different in terms of size compared to all 2s out there. So in your case better 3d model your own and ask someone to print it for you. Then there is the gimbal plate, the gimbal plate is where the gimbal is attached the four hole you see there are vibration damper slots.Now this gimbal plate is different since the one I'm using is a DIY version or I would say frankenstein because I got it used with a lot of missing parts even the controller board. So I had to design replacement parts.

Step 3: Partially Enjoy!

Turn on your gimbal and appreciate for awhile :)

And here I made a diagram of how things connect .... feel free to add a switch hahaha I forgot

Step 4: Programming

Like my previous tank builds I use a library called ZumoRC but in those build I modified the code to fit my own motor driver. Now for this build and motor driver i will not change anything from the ZumoRC library

Compatible motor drivers as I have tested

L298

Any DRV series motor driver from pololu "just like what I am using right now"

So before we start i'd like you guys to download some thing

https://github.com/pololu/zumo-shield

How to put a library inside the arduino ide

<p>#define THROTTLE_PIN   4 // throttle channel from RC receiver<br>#define STEERING_PIN   5 // steering channel from RC receiver
#define LED_PIN       13 // user LED pin</p><p>#define MAX_SPEED             400 // max motor speed
#define PULSE_WIDTH_DEADBAND   25 // pulse width difference from 1500 us (microseconds) to ignore (to compensate for control centering offset)
#define PULSE_WIDTH_RANGE     350 // pulse width difference from 1500 us to be treated as full scale input (for example, a value of 350 means
                                  //   any pulse width <= 1150 us or >= 1850 us is considered full scale)</p>

Remember where you connected your Digital 4 and 5 ? Well take note of that as we proceed to the following steps.

Some of you guys will have to tweak some of the values here if the ROV is not responding to your stick commands

In my situation I had no problem so lets just go on ahhahaha i'll try to help out if you find any problem in this part.