Can't afford a Nissan Leaf? No Problem!
Build a cheap electric car yourself by removing the the car engine, replacing it with a forklift motor, and adding batteries.
I have plenty of videos about this project at:
http://www.youtube.com/user/BenjaminNelson
and 300MPG.org
The primary "build blog" for this project is at:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/ben-nelsons-electro-metro-build-thread-848.html
but watch out! That is a good read for when you have WAY too much time on your hands.
For a good intro to basic electric car construction, stick with this Instructable.
For more in-depth construction information, check out the DVD available at 300MPG.org
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I was looking for something lightweight, with no power anything.
Heavier cars need more energy to push down the road, thus limiting your range on batteries.
Things like power steering and power brakes run off the engine, which is going to be removed anyways, rendering them useless. Power windows and locks add weight and complexity to the vehicle.
I ended up finding a Geo Metro for sale, for $500. The engine ran fine, and the body wasn't too bad, but I couldn't drive it home because the clutch was messed up. Oh well, this conversion isn't going to use a clutch anyways!
Make sure the car doesn't have anything major wrong with it (other than maybe a blown engine!) You want to do a Conversion, not a Restoration!
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An 80's Mustang would be great!
My car had manual steering, but power brakes. I added an electric vacuum pump to run the power brakes. Works fantastic.
My background is mechanical engineering (operating steam plants in the Navy) I do have a question though. My relatively average knowledge of electronics would lead me to think that as long as the motors are identical and the current to them is regulated properly that you could use 4 smaller motors (one at each wheel) instead of one big one to propel the vehicle. If run in parallel the motors should all turn at the same speed (I am sure a computer could further regulate the current to keep the wheels within a certain range of each other)
I ask this because the price of motors that are 25+ hp are a little high for the average person to purchase for their first EV project this (as BigTurd suggested) would also cut the need for a full sized transmission.
In a brand-new, custom-built vehicle, it would be easy to design for. In fact, with the motors out of the way, and no traditional transmission, it would give you great design flexibility. Modern car manufacturers talk about that sort of thing all the time. But for a simple conversion of an existing car, just replacing the engine with an electric motor and adding batteries is far more straight-forward than designing/manufacturing/fabricating everything for multiple motors and driven wheels.
I think that a four-wheel-drive hub-motor vehicle would be a great project to see. It might start off best as an "off-road-only" vehicle, something like a dune-buggy, ATV or something similar.
The "Tropica" electric car, designed by Bob Beaumont, also the inventor of the Citicar, was rear-wheel drive with TWO electric motors. Each motor was mounted on the swing-arm of the wheel, along with a belt and pulley to get the gear ratio right from the motor to the wheel. Also, each of the two motors had its own controller.
As for the cost of motors. There are plenty of good ones that can be bought brand new, specifically for EV use for $1000-$3000. That was a little expensive for my project, which only cost about $1300 total. My motor was from an electric forklift. I bought it for $50, cleaned it up, and installed it in my car. It works great.
For more information on repurposing forklift motors to power electric cars, please visit this link.
The proviso being that the traction motor can reach the rpm's necessary for your type of driving conditions. If it can't, perhaps you can pop in a different rear end ratio that better suits your needs.
Another note, there's likely a way to use the motor for regenerative braking to charge the batteries. It won't completely recharge them but adds a little extra range.
Just some thoughts.
bc
Also, with DC motors at least, operating them at high voltage well below their RPM rating can cause them to burn out.
He might throw in a small gear reduction box if not already on the motor.
A gear reduction box is much smaller & lighter than a transmission.
This might provide all the gearing to keep the motor in its torque range?
I would like to create a diesel / electric like trains use.
Who knows...Might work in a car?
You are quite correct in that a gear reduction box would work well. The Solectria Force was a factory-built Geo Metro with an AC motor and a gear reduction box. They worked quite well and did freeway speeds. The Tesla roadster also uses a dedicated gear reduction.
In this case, is it worth it to do all the work to figure out what the correct gear reduction box is, fab mounts to connect it to the car, and pay all the money for the part, when the existing transmission works fine? I spent about $1300 for the entire project. I tried looking up a for sale gearbox from a Solectria and wasn't able to find any. At least the Geo Metro is a vehicle that somebody else has already designed a dedicated gear box for.
Ever lifted a Geo Metro transmission? It's not that big or heavy. I don't think there would be a lot of weight or space advantage to switching to a dedicated gear box. I have also heard of guys locking their transmissions in a single gear and removing the unused gears to save a little weight.
You need a larger motor that can handle the continuous amperage required to ride the tractor around and mow the lawn.
My friend converted a gas riding lawn mower to an electric one. You can read about it at:
http://ecorenovator.org/forum/lawn-garden/161-ecorider-riding-lawn-mower-electric-conversion.html
People have built drill-powered bicycles too. Just make sure to do the hard work of pedaling to get getting, then use the drill for cruising speed.
oh, and my first ible was a drill powered bicycle.
i have also done the same with a razor scooter.
they were both friction drive.
Horsepower is often over-rated. While mainstream gasoline cars advertise what huge engines they have, you really don't need all that much just to cruise around a the highway. My friend has a 25 HP electric motor in his Dodge Neon, and it does highway speeds just fine.
Electric motors can also briefly produce considerably higher horsepower than their rating plate (which tells continuous power), whereas gasoline engines are rated at very high RPM.
It's that horsepower is rated very differently on an electric motor than a gasoline engine.
Horsepower is RPM times torque (oooomf x speed)
Most of the time in a car, you DON'T need horsepower, you need either Torque OR Speed. Most DC electric motors have extremely good torque at low speeds. The torque does drop off at higher speeds though.
But because you need torque at the low end to accelerate from a stop (but not much speed) and when you want to go fast, you need speed (but not much torque, unless you want to pass, my car does not have good passing power)
It's more that an electric motor has more appropriate characteristics for propelling a vehicle than anything.
Oh, and how much did your conversion cost?
More typical electric car projects can cost $5,000 to $20,000, but creative people don't need to pay those types of prices!
I recommend that you order parts (including lithium batteries) from a reputable Electric Vehicle dealer. A good list to start with is provided by the Electric Auto Association at their "EV For Sale" page. Look under the heading "EV Converters, repairs, & kit or component suppliers" for companies that sell parts, including batteries.
The Electric Auto Association is a great organization. When you become a member, it includes a subscription to their monthly magazine, CURRENT EVENTS, which has great articles, news, and even the ads are worth reading for what the latest in products out there is.
A motor being turned also acts a a dynamo/generator when no power is applied. In regenerative braking, this generated power is fed back into the batteries to get more mpw (miles per watt).
Look up "regenerative braking"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Regenerative_brake
There is also more information here, although it confusingly talks about "reversing the motor" and "the motor running backwards". This doesn't mean you need to physically reverse the motor direction in a car, but you use the back generated emf/voltage to charge the batteries using appropriate circuitry:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/regenerative-braking.htm
< to the article author: great effort and design! >
Also, I would rig up the alternator to activate when you press the brake, NOT when you let off the accelerator. (Could could have the brake light wire connect to a relay that activates the alternator for example.) There are LOTS of times in my car that I am driving, but not touching the accelerator. My car seems to enjoy coasting.
i read your article about converting Geo Metro to electric car , i was really thrilled.:) It looks very easy :)
I decide to convert some old car to electric car to get to work and back. I have few questions, which i need to answer, if you could help me:
- What car should i pick? Do i have to watch some special parts of car (transmition) I was thinking about Mitsubisti Colt 1996 or Peugeot 206 1998, what you mean?
- Why do you use exactly forklift electric engine?
- Can you tell me what power (kW) and torgue (NM) should the electric engine need to have?
My idea about the electric car is:
Day distance/range: 70-80km
Max. Speed: 80-90 km/h for 10km, and rest 50-70km/h.
Thank you for help.
Miro (mirio46x), Slovakia (Europe).
You could also do a search for Advanced DC or Netgain brand motors, as those are typical commercial motors available for electric cars. They will list motor specifics, including power.
but could Tom G. (Dodge Neon) tell me the power of electric motor required for EV ?
Could you ask him or give me a contact to him?
Tx
M.
You can calculate those number using tools such as the ones at:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php
and
http://www.evconvert.com/tools/evcalc/
Once you know those numbers you can look for an appropriate motor for your project.
Could you give me infos about your forklift engine (kW, RPM, Hz, kg) used in Geo Metro EV just for comparison, my conception.
If it is too private, please send me to private message.
Thank you
M