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Hace unos dos meses encontré tirado en un basural (de esos que tienen un gran cartel "PROHIBIDO ARROJAR BASURA") un cilindro de GNC, chico, presuntamente perteneciente a alguno de los varios autos robados que van a parar ahí y terminan en llamas. Con bastante dificultad lo levanté, lo cargué en el baúl del auto y me lo traje a casa, y puse en Instructable una pregunta "¿qué puedo hacer con él?". Hubo varias sugerencias, y finalmente se impuso la idea de hacer una salamandra, porque el gas natural aumentó muchísimo, y mi tallercito puede ser Siberia sin una calefacción.

NOTA: Ver la modificación hecha a la puerta, en http://www.instructables.com/id/Mejorando-la-salamandra-Improving-the-salamander/

About two months ago I found dumped in a landfill (the kind with a big sign "NO LITTERING") a CNG cylinder, little, surely belonging to one of several stolen cars that end up there in flames. With some difficulty I got up it, loaded in the trunk of the car and brought at home. After I put a question on Instructables "What I can do with it?". There were several suggestions, and finally imposed the idea of a salamander, because natural prize gas increased dramatically, and my little shop can be Siberia, without a heater.

NOTE: See modification to the door, in http://www.instructables.com/id/Mejorando-la-salamandra-Improving-the-salamander/

Step 1: Cutting (cortando)

Vacié el poco gas que contenía el tubo, le quité la válvula, lo llené de agua dos veces y lo dejé secar algunos días, para eliminar cualquier posibilidad de explosión.

Luego marqué con tinta indeleble la puerta y los agujeros de ambos extremos, y lo llevé a un taller metalúrgico para que lo corten, porque está hecho de acero duro y es imposible para mí poder agujerear los extremos, que tienen casi una pulgada de grosor. Me cobraron bastante el trabajo, pero yo no tenía elección, así que agaché la cabeza y lo pagué.


I drained the little gas containing the tube, removed the valve, filled with water twice and let it dry a few days to eliminate any possibility of explosion.

Then I marked with indelible ink the door and the holes at both ends, and took it to a metal shop to cut, because it is made of hard steel and it is impossible for me to drill the ends, which are nearly an inch thick. They charged me a good deal of money for the work, but I had no choice, so I bowed my head and paid.

Step 2: Emprolijando (tidying up)

Tuve que rellenar algunos huecos que dejó el soplete, pero me resultó relativamente fácil utilizando la soldadora eléctrica y un trozo de hierro de construcción de 6 mm a manera de electrodo de aporte.

I had to fill some gaps left by the torch, but I found it relatively easy using electric welder and a piece of construction iron of 6 mm by way of contribution electrode.

Step 3: Las embocaduras (mouthpieces)

Hice dos aros de varilla de hierro de 1"/8, uno para la salida, de 3"/4 de ancho, y otro para la entrada, de 1"/2. Los soldé tratando de que quedaran firmemente pegados al cuerpo del cilindro.

I made two rings of flat iron rod 1"/8, one for output, 3"/4 wide, and one for input, 1"/2 wide. Weld them trying to remain firmly attached to the cylinder body.

Step 4: La parrilla (the grill)

Para sostener la leña, los papeles y cualquier otro combustible a usar, hice una parrilla redonda que calza bien dentro del cilindro. Hice primero el marco redondo y luego le fui soldando varillas paralelas, separadas unos 18 mm entre una y otra. Las varillas quedaron con sección vertical, es decir puestas de canto.

To support the wood, papers and any other fuel to use, I made a round grill that fits well within the cylinder. I made first the round frame and then went welding parallel rods, spaced about 18 mm between them. The rods were in vertical section, it is to say set on edge.

Step 5: El control de flujo de aire (air flow control)

Para poder regular la combustión, porque de otra manera la salamandra "devora" en segundos cualquier combustible que se le ponga, hice una tapa de chapa de hierro de 2mm que se puede cerrar totalmente. La aseguré en la entrada de aire, o sea en la parte inferior, porque me resultó mucho más fácil hacer eso que intercalar una mariposa en el tubo de salida, donde las llamas la pondrían eventualmente al rojo vivo, y reemplazarla implicaría un trabajo mucho mayor.

Agregué un contrapeso en el extremo opuesto a la tapa para balancearla, aunque los tornillos que hacen de eje la aprietan lo suficiente como para que quede fija en la posición que yo le asigne. Tuve la precaución de prever el cambio de la tapa metálica, atornillándola en su lugar en vez de soldarla. Y por las dudas el reemplazo fuera una chapa o cerámica de diferente grosor, agregué unas levas que permiten fijarla en el ángulo necesario para que cierre bien.


To regulate combustion, because otherwise the salamander "eats up" in seconds whatever fuel you put in, did a cover of 2 mm sheet iron which can be closed completely. Fastened it in the air inlet, that is to say at the bottom, because I found much easier to do this than to insert a throttle in the upper pipe, where the flames would eventually red hot it, and replacing it will imply a much greater work.

Added a counterweight at the opposite end to the lid to balance it, although the axis bolts are tightened enough to lock it in the position I assigned. I was careful to provide for the exchange of the metal cap, screwing it in place instead of welding. And just in case the replacement was a different thickness metal or ceramic, added fix cams that allow the angle necessary to close it.

Step 6: La puerta (the door)

Dado que el corte de la puerta dejó una ranura de unos 5 mm todo alrededor, me vi obligado a agregarle a la puerta un marco a manera de labios, para que al cerrarla cubra toda la abertura. Lo hice con tiras de 1"/8 por 3"/4.

NOTA: ver http://www.instructables.com/id/Mejorando-la-salamandra-Improving-the-salamander/

Since the cutting of the door left a slot of about 5 mm all around, I was forced to add to the door a frame by way of lips, so that when closed covers the entire opening. I did it with strips of 1"/8 by 3"/4.

NOTE: See http://www.instructables.com/id/Mejorando-la-salamandra-Improving-the-salamander/

Step 7: Las bisagras (the hinges)

Pensé en improvisar las bisagras, pero finalmente privilegié el tiempo sobre el costo, y compré dos bisagras medianamente robustas, que soldé en sus lugares.

I thought improvise hinges, but ultimately favors the time about the cost, and bought two fairly robust hinges, which I soldered in place.

Step 8: La manija (the handle)

Soldé una tuerca al borde de la puerta, a la cual atornillé firmemente un tornillo que sirve como eje de la manija. Esta es un trozo de varilla plana de hierro que tiene dos tuercas soldadas en un lado, que funcionan como bujes. Luego le soldé un trozo de varilla redonda doblada en forma de gancho, que sirve de pestillo trabando la puerta mediante un tornillo que está fijado a una tuerca soldada al cuerpo de la salamandra.

Weld a nut to the edge of the door, on which firmly screwed a screw which serves as the axis of the handle. This is a piece of flat iron bar having two nuts welded on one side, which serve as hubs. Then I welded a piece of round rod bent into a hook, which serves to  latch the door by a screw which is fixed to a nut welded to the body of the salamander

Step 9: Las patas (legs)

Con algunos restos de hierro T le hice tres patas, con pestañas en los extremos para atornillarlas al piso.

With some leftovers of  T iron I made three legs, with flanges on the ends to screw them to the floor.

Step 10: La chimenea (chimney)

Tuve que optar entre comprar tubos de fundición, que son mucho más durables, pesados y caros, o de hierro. Me decidí por estos últimos, con la idea de que si dentro de unos años se agujerean (y yo todavía estoy vivo), el problema se resuelve fácilmente reemplazando o reparando la parte afectada. Por otra parte, instalarlos sin ayuda no sería fácil. Luego de haberlo hecho, me felicité por la decisión. La chimenea está compuesta de dos trozos de 1,63 m, que en su parte media están simplemente apoyados uno sobre el otro, sostenidos en su lugar por una brida que los asegura a la pared.

I had to choose between buying cast iron pipes, which are much more durable, heavy, expensive, or iron. I chose the latter, with the idea that in a few years if they are bored (and I'm still alive), the problem is easily solved by replacing or repairing the affected part. In addition, to install without help would not be easy. After I did, I congratulated the decision. The chimney is composed of two pieces of 1.63 m, which in its middle part are simply supported one above the other, held in place by a flange which fixes them to the wall.

Step 11: Preparando la primera prueba (preparing first test)

Dado que el tubo de GNC venía pintado de amarillo, debí hacer la primera prueba en el patio, para evitar que mi taller se llenara de humo por la pintura quemada. Fue una previsión acertada, como se puede ver en las fotos.

Instalé la salamandra en la pared exterior del taller, para lo cual debí agregar una brida provisoria para sostener el extremo superior de la chimenea.

Because the CNG tube had been painted yellow, I should make the first test in the yard, to avoid my shop be filled with smoke from the burned paint. It was a wise provision, as seen in the photos.

I installed the salamander on the outside wall of the workshop, for which I should add a temporary clamp to hold the upper end of the chimney.

Step 12: Encendiendo la fiera (powering the beast)

Durante los días previos fui acumulando todo tipo de basura combustible, para poder hacer elevar la temperatura de la salamandra lo suficiente como para quemar totalmente la pintura. Papeles, botellas plásticas, envoltorios y maderas inútiles para otro fin.

De entrada me sorprendió la facilidad con que encendió y cobró intensidad rápidamente el fuego. A los pocos segundos de comenzar, tuve que cerrar la entrada de aire casi totalmente, para mantenerlo dentro de límites normales, dado que por la punta la chimenea salían algunos papeles encendidos.

La pintura comenzó primero a humear y luego a quemarse y caer en escamas. La parte superior fue la última en quemarse.


During the days before I was accumulating all sorts of rubbish fuel, to be able to raise the temperature of the salamander enough to completely burn the paint. Paper, plastic bottles, packaging and wood, useless for other purposes.

At the outset I was surprised how easily it ignited and the fire quickly escalated. Within seconds of starting, I had to shut off the air inlet almost entirely, to keep it within normal limits, because
some papers out by the chimney tip.

The painting first began to smolder and then burn out and fall in flakes. The top was the last to burn.

Step 13: Ruge! (it roars!)

Promediando la prueba, escuché una especie de rugido bastante fuerte que variaba de intensidad y tono al mover el regulador de flujo de aire. Grabé un clip de video para ilustrarlo. Lamentablemente el micrófono de mi cámara tiene algún problema porque graba a bajo volumen.

La cantidad de ceniza producida fue mucho menor que lo esperado, posiblemente debido a que mucha escapó por la chimenea, para regocijo del vecindario.

A los pocos minutos de haberla encendido, ya se había quemado totalmente la pintura.



At half of the test, I heard a loud enough roar that varied in intensity and tone by moving the air flow regulator. I recorded a video clip to illustrate it. Unfortunately my camera's microphone has a problem because it records at low volume.

The amount of ash produced was much lower than expected, possibly because many ashes escaped through the chimney, to the delight of the neighborhood.

A few minutes after having fired on, it had burned all the paint.


Step 14: Cosm�tica (cosmetics)

Una vez que se enfrió le pasé un cepillo de acero rotativo y la pinté con pintura negra para alta temperatura. La chimenea recibió un tratamiento parecido, solo que en vez de cepillo usé lija y líquido fosfatizante para eliminar algunas manchas de óxido.

Once cooled I slipped a rotating wire brush and painted it with black paint for high temperature. The chimney was treated like that, but instead of brush I used sandpaper and phosphatizant liquid to remove some rust stains.

Step 15: El sombrerete (the bonnet)

Con unos trozos sobrantes de chapa galvanizada hice el sombrerete, lo armé con remaches pequeños de aluminio.

With some leftover pieces of galvanized sheet I made the cap, built it with small aluminum rivets.

Step 16: Instalaci�n definitiva (final installation)

La ubiqué en su lugar dentro del taller, agujereé el entrepiso y el techo, pasé los caños, los aseguré en su lugar y atornillé las patas de la salamandra al piso. Para sellar el agujero de la chapa del techo usé silicona, y tengo pensado reforzarla dentro de unos días y cubrirla con papel de aluminio para protegerla del sol.

I located it in place within the workshop, bore the mezzanine and the roof, thread the pipes, fastened them in place and screwed the legs of the salamander to the floor. To seal the hole in the roof sheet I used silicone, and I have in a few days to reinforce and cover it with foil to protect from the sun.

Step 17: En resumen (conclusion)

Estoy más que satisfecho con el resultado. Trabajé aproximadamente una semana, con varias interrupciones, pero la salamandra salió tal como la diseñé, y funciona mucho mejor que lo esperado.

Durante el uso normal no la llevaré nunca a una temperatura tan alta como durante la primera prueba, supongo que con encender un pequeño fuego a la mañana y otro a la tarde será suficiente para mantener confortable mi taller. Lo interesante es que el tiraje de la chimenea es muy bueno, lo cual me asegura que no tendré el taller lleno de humo.

Pronto comienza la época de poda, y mi ciudad se llenará de montones de ramas, de las cuales podré obtener leña gratis. Por otra parte, voy a preparar un lugar para seleccionar de los residuos domésticos todo lo que sea combustible.

Futuro: lo siguiente será opcional, dependiendo de las necesidades y posibilidades:
  1. Esperar el frío y entonces sí, estrenarla con fanfarria, discursos, desfile y alfombra roja.
  2. Agregar al interior de la puerta una pequeña parrilla redonda desmontable, para usar la salamandra como horno y    hacer bollos, carne, fruta, chorizos, etc.
  3. Soldar en la parte superior una chapa horizontal que sirva como mejora a la disipación del calor y también para    apoyar un recipiente para calentar agua.
  4. Tengo que conseguir una sartén un poco más grande para recoger las cenizas.
I am more than satisfied with the result. I worked about a week, with several interruptions, but the salamander went just as I designed, and works much better than expected.

During normal use not ever take a temperature as high as during the first test, I guess with lighting a small fire in the morning and another at afternoon will be enough to keep
comfortable my shop. The interesting thing is that the circulation of the chimney is very good, which assures me I will not have a smoky workshop.

Soon begins here the time of pruning, and my city will be filled with lots of branches, of which I get free firewood. Moreover, I will prepare a place for household waste selecting whatever is fuel.

Future: The following is optional, depending on the needs and possibilities:

  1. Expect cold, then yes, release it with fanfare, speeches, parade and red carpet.
  2. Add into the door a small round detachable grill for use the salamander as oven and make buns, meat, fruit, sausages, etc.
  3. Weld at the top an horizontal plate to serve as improved heat dissipation and to support a container for heating water.
  4. I have to get a slightly larger pan to collect the ashes.
<p>Te lo copio por ac&aacute;: Magnifico laburo!!!</p><p>Ten&iacute;a la idea de hacer un chulengo el d&iacute;a que muera mi cilindro de GNC.<br>Quisiera hacer una critica constructiva, muy constructiva....creo.<br>Para evitar cualquier inconveniente con la madera del techo, (donde pasa el ca&ntilde;o del tiraje) tendr&iacute;as que forrar el ca&ntilde;o con material ign&iacute;fugo. No digo amianto porque est&aacute; perimido por contaminante, pero hay un material cer&aacute;mico (tipo manta o pa&ntilde;o) que a&iacute;sla muy bien y esta aprobado para las juntas de estufas de tiro balanceado y cualquier aislaci&oacute;n de alta temperatura.<br>Te agrego tambi&eacute;n que reglamentariamente est&aacute; prohibida cualquier ventilaci&oacute;n de artefactos a combusti&oacute;n su contacto o cercan&iacute;a con productos inflamables.<br><br>Por lo dem&aacute;s &iexcl;&iexcl;Te felicito!! &iexcl;&iexcl; un buen trabajo y muy &uacute;til!!</p><p>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>si, el agujero est&aacute; hecho, pero lo que se suele hacer es un agujero en la pared a 45 grados. De forma tal que (es dificil describir sin dibujar)..... sea algo asi:<br>Estufa ( ca&ntilde;o vertical)<br>codo 45 grados<br>ca&ntilde;o a 45 atraviesa la pared<br>codo 45 grados en el exterior<br>ca&ntilde;o vertical en el exterior a gusto hasta salida a 4 vientos.</p><p>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>Si; eso cuando no te queda mas remedio que sacar por la pared (sino le agujereas el piso al de arriba ) pero no es obligatorio, tampoco puede tener menos de treinta cent&iacute;metros antes del primer codo, (pero eso es un tema reglamentario) es mas, los hogares a le&ntilde;a, o los tirajes de parrillas (sin ir mas lejos) son verticales directos.<br>El tema de la madera (machimbre del techo) es que se enciende alrededor de los 300&ordm; y no puede (ni debe) estar en contacto con el ca&ntilde;o de salida.<br>Agrego otro dato: normalmente esas maderas se barnizan o, se les aplica producto mata bichos, ambos sumamente t&oacute;xicos al evaporarse, incluso los que son al agua.</p><p>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++</p><p>I copied it over here : laburo Magnifico !</p><p>He had the idea of making a chulengo the day I die my CNG cylinder .</p><p>I would like to make a constructive criticism very constructive .... I think.</p><p>To avoid any inconvenience to the wooden ceiling (where the pipe passes the print run ) you'd have to line the pipe with fireproof material. I'm not saying that it is outdated asbestos contaminant , but a ceramic material ( blanket or cloth type ) that insulates well and is approved for joints stoves balanced shot and any high temperature insulation .</p><p>I also added that any vent combustion appliances or close contact with flammables is statutorily prohibited.</p><p>OtherwiseI congratulate you ! Good work and very helpful !</p><p>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>if the hole is made , but what is usually done is a hole in the wall at 45 degrees. So that (it is difficult to describe without drawing ) ..... is something like this:</p><p>Stove (vertical pipe )</p><p>Elbow 45 degrees</p><p>pipe through the wall 45</p><p>Elbow 45 degrees outside</p><p>Vertical pipe outside comfortable to Exit 4 winds .</p><p>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>If ; So when you have no choice but to pull down the wall ( but you agujereas the floor above : mrgreen : ) but not required , nor can it be less than a foot before the first elbow (but that's a regulatory issue ) is more , the fireplaces , grills or runs ( without going too far ) are direct vertical .</p><p>The theme of wood ( machimbre roof ) is going on around 300 &deg; and can not ( and should not) be in contact with the spout .</p><p>We add another fact: usually these are varnished woods or is applied product kills bugs, both highly toxic to evaporate , even those that are in the water.</p>
<p>Gracias, Chango70. </p><p>S&iacute;, todo eso que dec&iacute;s es correcto, pero a esta altura no creo que me vaya a poner a modificar nada. En primer lugar, porque luego de dos inviernos observando cuidadosamente si hab&iacute;a alg&uacute;n problema con la chimenea, los pocos que surgieron los pude resolver con poco trabajo y casi sin gastar un peso. La madera del techo se chamusc&oacute; un poco y nada m&aacute;s, y la separaci&oacute;n de algunos mil&iacute;metros parece ser m&aacute;s que suficiente para evitar que la chimenea siga atac&aacute;ndola. Hay que tener en cuenta que se trata de un taller, la construcci&oacute;n es sumamente b&aacute;sica, con maderas semiduras sin tratar. Por otro lado, encendiendo la salamandra normalmente no existe ninguna posibilidad de que el problema se repita. El chamuscamiento se produjo porque al principio yo la &quot;apur&eacute;&quot; demasiado, recarg&aacute;ndola de papeles y charamuscas que produjeron una gran cantidad de llama. Eso no conviene en ning&uacute;n sentido, lo ideal es que la llama sea moderada desde el principio. </p><p>Hubiera sido interesante atravesar la pared a 45 grados como suger&iacute;s, pero 1) es mucho m&aacute;s trabajo; 2) en ese lugar hay un alero, as&iacute; que el brazo inclinado hubiera tenido que ser bastante m&aacute;s largo o atravesar igualmente la chapa; 3) por lo que s&eacute;, para el tipo de ca&ntilde;o que us&eacute; no se consiguen accesorios, o sea que iba a tener que hacerlos yo mismo, lo cual me hubiera llevado m&aacute;s de una semana de trabajo. </p><p>Lo que s&iacute; he visto y me preocupa un poco, es que la ceniza es altamente corrosiva, lo mismo que el humo. El bonete de arriba se agujere&oacute; y tuve que reemplazarlo por otro m&aacute;s grueso, y las escamas que caen del interior de la chimenea al golpearla sugieren que en un a&ntilde;o o dos esta tambi&eacute;n se va a agujerear. Pens&eacute; que durar&iacute;a m&aacute;s. Tal vez lo conveniente ser&iacute;a limpiar la ceniza todas las noches, pero por lo general cuando me decido a dejar de trabajar, ya no me quedan ganas de ocuparme de eso. </p><p>Nuevamente gracias por el inter&eacute;s que has puesto en el tema. Un abrazo.</p>
<p>Mira, actualmente estoy trabajando en algo parecido a esto:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vblt_kcebdA y para hacer la chimenea pienso usar extiguidores viejos cortados y soldados (por mi bario hay muchos edificios y de vez en cuando sacan a la calle los que no pasan los controles). Lo incre&iacute;ble de este dise&ntilde;o es que se puede sumergir en una pileta en funcionamiento y se esa forma calentar el agua.</p><p>Look, I'm currently working on something like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vblt_kcebdA and make the fireplace extiguidores I use old cut and welded (my barium many buildings and occasionally take to the streets that do not pass the checks). The amazing thing about this design is that you can dip in a pool running and thus heat the water.</p>
<p>Ten&eacute;s suerte de vivir ah&iacute;, ac&aacute; nadie tira ni un corcho usado. Ese tubo de GNC que us&eacute; lo hall&eacute; tirado en medio de la calle cerca de casa, no tengo idea de por qu&eacute; alguien decidi&oacute; tirarlo. Es cierto que una vez cumplida su vida &uacute;til est&aacute; prohibido reutilizarlos, pero como sirven para otras cosas los venden, y piden bastante. Interesant&iacute;simo tu dise&ntilde;o!</p>
<p>http://www.gncusers.com.ar/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;t=18036</p>
<p>El administrador del Sitio requiere que est&eacute;s registrado y hayas ingresado para ver este foro.</p><p>Y no quiero registrarme. Gracias de todos modos.</p>
<p>No entiendo, no podes acceder al link?</p>
<p>S&iacute;, puedo acceder. Lo que no quiero es registrarme para poder leerlo.</p>
The hole where the chimney goes thru the mezzanine floor is too small. That single wall pipe can turn red hot if the tar that forms inside of it catches fire (and it will). I hope you will consider enlarging it by a couple of inches away from the pipe then sheilding the wood with something like a clay pot or metal sleave. Same thing where it goes through the roof. <br>Cool stove ;) <br>
Thanks, jrek, I never thought that. Another solution could be to clean each two or three years the inner of the chimney. I had noticed that pounding the tube, some scales of rust-tar-dirt fall into the salamander sometimes. Perhaps I shall be obliged to repair or replace the tube in one or two years. The walls are 2 mm thick, that is easily penetrable.
WOW!! I love this design. I was thinking of making something similar to this very soon.
Thanks, MR.. <br><br>Glad you find useful my instructable.
Don Osvaldo, I would like to suggest that you exchange the word &quot;butterfly&quot; on the English text on step 5 for the word &quot;throttle&quot; which in your case is the right translation for your project. I want to ask you if this &quot;<em>salamandra</em>&quot; works with the same principle as a rocket stove. Thank you very much.<br> <br> Don Osvaldo me gustaria sugerirle que cambie la palabra &quot;<em>butterfly</em>&quot; en el texto en ingles en el paso 5 por la palabra &quot;<em>throttle</em>&quot;, la cual es la traduccion correcta en el caso de su proyecto. Quiero preguntarle si esta salamandra trabaja con el mismo principio de la estufa cohete. Muchas gracias.
Thanks blkhawk, done the correction. <br> <br>I don't know any rocket stove, but it is probable this salamander is one of them. When I feed it with enough fuel (papers, woods, PET, etc) IT ROARS LOUDLY.
I have been interested in building a rocket heater to warm my garage which gets cold at this time of the year. I liked your project very much because it is very well designed. If it roars like you said, it works like a rocket stove/heater. Thank you very much Don Osvaldo!<br> <br> &nbsp;Yo he estado interesado en construir una calefaccion cohete para calentar mi garaje, el cual es muy frio durante esta epoca del a&ntilde;o. Me gusto mucho su proyecto porque esta muy bien dise&ntilde;ado. Si ruge como usted dice, trabaja como una estufa/calefaccion cohete. &iexcl;Muchisimas gracias Don Osvaldo!
nice work <br />
Thanks. Last week I did it an improvement: cut the door in two: one bigger beneath, to clean the ashes each morning and initiate the fire, and other littler up, to feed firewood when the salamander is on. Maybe I will post the instructable.
A beautiful piece of recycling, <br>and a lovely piece of useful art. <br>Rimar, where do you live? <br>Thank you for the inspiration. <br>~ ricardo
I live in Argentina, near La Plata city. <br><br>Thanks for your kind comment.
Fantastic build Rimar. nice design and build, I was glad to see you burned the paint of your tank before you painted it black, I didn't and the yellow paint eventually bubbled and lifted and I had to grind the old paint of with a flap disk.<br> <br> Glad to see you got this one featured, of all of my Ibles My wood stove was the one i really wanted to get a feature for as its the thing I'm proudest of so far, but such is life, you screw 2 ball bearings together and it an instant hit and&nbsp; gets 75k hits so far<br> <br> I laughed when i saw the frying pan as the ash pan, I also use an old saucepan as a ash pan too, must be universal thinking.<br> <br> Let the ashes build up in the bottom they help hold heat and slow the burn time down which saves fuel, just remove enough to let some air in, I only clean my stove out when the grate get blocked up with old nails and screws from the scrap timber I burn.<br> <br> Very nice steel work on the grate and the overall build, I went down the rough and tough re-bar road when i make my grate a i didnot know how long it would last before it burned out, iiit is still hold out well 5 years down the line.<br> <br> I fitted a larger flue in 2 sections so it could be dismantled if it ever blocks again, i will post a few soon as I'm in the process of clearing out and changing the layout of my shed, I will post a Ible of the various things I have changed.<br> <br> Save your sawdust and wood shavings and all your old newspapers and make your own fuel bricks. Check out my Ible on Bio Fuel Briquettes.<br> <br> I lined my wood stove with 3/4&quot; of fire cement, that really help hold the heat for a few hours after the fire has died out. Its an option if you find the tank loses heat to quickly when the fire is out.<br> <br> The warmest feeling you will get from it is when people find out that you built it yourself. everyone who has seen my wood stove thinks that it was store bought.<br> <br> <strong><span id="result_box" lang="es"><span class="hps">Fant&aacute;stico</span> <span class="hps">Rimar</span> <span class="hps">construcci&oacute;n</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">buen dise&ntilde;o y</span> <span class="hps">construcci&oacute;n</span><span>, me alegr&eacute; de</span> <span class="hps">ver que</span> <span class="hps">queman</span> <span class="hps">la pintura</span> <span class="hps">de su tanque</span> <span class="hps">antes de</span> <span class="hps">pintar</span> <span class="hps">de negro</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">yo no, y</span> <span class="hps">la pintura amarilla</span> <span class="hps">con el tiempo</span> <span class="hps">burbujeaba</span> <span class="hps">y se levant&oacute;</span> <span class="hps">y tuve que</span> <span class="hps">rectificar la</span> <span class="hps">pintura vieja</span> <span class="hps">con un disco</span> <span class="hps">de la</span> <span class="hps">solapa.</span><br> <br> <span class="hps">Me alegra ver</span> <span class="hps">que tienes</span> <span class="hps">&eacute;ste</span> <span class="hps">aparece</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">de todos mis</span> <span class="hps">ibles</span> <span class="hps">Mi</span> <span class="hps">estufa de le&ntilde;a</span> <span class="hps">era la que yo</span> <span class="hps">realmente quer&iacute;a</span> <span class="hps">tener una</span> <span class="hps">funci&oacute;n</span> <span class="hps">de</span> <span class="hps">como</span> <span class="hps">lo</span> <span class="hps">estoy</span> <span class="hps">m&aacute;s orgulloso</span> <span class="hps">hasta ahora, pero</span> <span class="hps">as&iacute; es la vida</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">te equivocas</span> <span class="hps">2 rodamientos de bolas</span> <span class="hps">juntos y</span> <span class="hps">en un &eacute;xito instant&aacute;neo</span> <span class="hps">y se pone</span> <span class="hps">75K</span> <span class="hps">&eacute;xitos</span> <span class="hps">hasta el momento</span><br> <br> <span class="hps">Me re&iacute;</span> <span class="hps">cuando vi</span> <span class="hps">la sart&eacute;n</span> <span class="hps">como el</span> <span class="hps">cenicero</span><span>, yo tambi&eacute;n uso</span> <span class="hps">una</span> <span class="hps">olla</span> <span class="hps">vieja</span> <span class="hps">como un</span> <span class="hps">cenicero</span> <span class="hps">tambi&eacute;n,</span> <span class="hps">debe ser</span> <span class="hps">el pensamiento</span> <span class="hps">universal.</span><br> <br> <span class="hps">Que</span> <span class="hps">las cenizas</span> <span class="hps">se acumulan en</span> <span class="hps">el fondo</span> <span class="hps">ayudan a</span> <span class="hps">mantener el calor</span> <span class="hps">y disminuir el</span> <span class="hps">tiempo de grabaci&oacute;n</span> <span class="hps">por</span> <span class="hps">lo que ahorra combustible</span><span>, s&oacute;lo quitar</span> <span class="hps">lo suficiente para dejar</span> <span class="hps">un poco de aire</span><span>, yo</span> <span class="hps">s&oacute;lo limpiar</span> <span class="hps">mi cocina</span> <span class="hps">cuando</span> <span class="hps">la reja</span> <span class="hps">se bloquean</span> <span class="hps">con</span> <span class="hps">clavos viejos</span> <span class="hps">y los tornillos</span> <span class="hps">de la</span> <span class="hps">desechos</span> <span class="hps">de madera</span> <span class="hps">que</span> <span class="hps">quemar.</span><br> <br> <span class="hps">Muy bonito</span> <span class="hps">el trabajo</span> <span class="hps">de acero</span> <span class="hps">en la parrilla y</span> <span class="hps">la construcci&oacute;n del</span> <span class="hps">conjunto,</span> <span class="hps">me fui por el</span> <span class="hps">&aacute;spero y duro</span> <span class="hps">camino de</span> <span class="hps">re</span><span>-bar</span> <span class="hps">cuando hago mi</span> <span class="hps">rejilla</span> <span class="hps">ai</span> <span class="hps">nose</span> <span class="hps">sabe cu&aacute;nto tiempo</span> <span class="hps">iba a durar</span> <span class="hps">antes de que se</span> <span class="hps">quem&oacute;</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">IIIT</span> <span class="hps">a&uacute;n</span> <span class="hps">as&iacute;</span> <span class="hps">resistir</span> <span class="hps">hasta</span> <span class="hps">5 a&ntilde;os</span> <span class="hps">la l&iacute;nea.</span><br> <br> <span class="hps">Me</span> <span class="hps">instalado</span> <span class="hps">un tubo</span> <span class="hps">m&aacute;s grande</span> <span class="hps">en 2 secciones</span> <span class="hps">por lo que podr&iacute;a</span> <span class="hps">ser desmantelada</span> <span class="hps">si alguna vez se</span> <span class="hps">bloquea</span> <span class="hps">de nuevo</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">voy a publicar</span> <span class="hps">algunos</span> <span class="hps">m&aacute;s pronto</span> <span class="hps">que estoy en el</span> <span class="hps">proceso de limpiar</span> <span class="hps">y cambiar el</span> <span class="hps">dise&ntilde;o de mi</span> <span class="hps">nave</span><span>, voy a publicar</span> <span class="hps">una</span> <span class="hps">visibles de</span> <span class="hps">la</span> <span class="hps">varias cosas que</span> <span class="hps">han cambiado.</span><br> <br> <span class="hps">Guarde sus</span> <span class="hps">aserr&iacute;n</span> <span class="hps">y madera</span> <span class="hps">y</span> <span class="hps">todos los</span> <span class="hps">peri&oacute;dicos</span> <span class="hps">a sus</span> <span class="hps">viejos</span> <span class="hps">y hacer sus</span> <span class="hps">ladrillos</span> <span class="hps">de combustible</span> <span class="hps">propias</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">Echa un vistazo a</span> <span class="hps">mi</span> <span class="hps">ible</span> <span class="hps">de</span> <span class="hps">briquetas</span> <span class="hps">de combustible</span> <span class="hps">Bio</span><span>.</span><br> <br> <span class="hps">Forr&eacute;</span> <span class="hps">mi</span> <span class="hps">estufa de le&ntilde;a</span> <span class="hps">con 3/4</span> <span class="hps">&quot;de</span> <span class="hps">cemento refractario</span><span>,</span> <span class="hps">que realmente</span> <span class="hps">ayudan a mantener</span> <span class="hps">el calor</span> <span class="hps">durante unas pocas horas</span> <span class="hps">despu&eacute;s del incendio</span> <span class="hps">se ha extinguido.</span> <span class="hps">Su</span> <span class="hps">opci&oacute;n</span> <span class="hps">si usted encuentra</span> <span class="hps">el tanque</span> <span class="hps">pierde calor</span> <span class="hps">r&aacute;pidamente</span> <span class="hps">cuando el</span> <span class="hps">fuego se haya extinguido</span><span>.</span><br> <br> <span class="hps">La</span> <span class="hps">m&aacute;s c&aacute;lida</span> <span class="hps">sensaci&oacute;n</span> <span class="hps">que se obtiene de</span> <span class="hps">ella</span> <span class="hps">es cuando la gente</span> <span class="hps">se entera de que</span> <span class="hps">lo construy&oacute;</span> <span class="hps">a ti mismo</span><span>.</span> <span class="hps">todos los que han</span> <span class="hps">visto a mi</span> <span class="hps">estufa de le&ntilde;a</span> <span class="hps">cree que fue</span> <span class="hps">comprado en la tienda</span><span>.</span></span></strong>
Your desing is more elaborated than mine, DrQui, and cuter . <br><br>But I am quite rebel about some popular concepts: I don't agree about the inner refractary covering. I think the heat must exit quickly from the stove, before it goes to the chimney. Anyway, it will be absorbed by the environment: walls, air, furniture, etc. This is preferable than lost it for the exhaust.
The side wall of my tank where only 3mm and it was heavily pitted because it had been a shop sign at the hardware store i worked in after it reached the end of its useful life as a gas tank, the gas company drill the tanks, remove the valve, repair the tank and add a sign where the valve goes, they give these out to the stores who sell the gas for them. once the sign get rusty the store then throw them out. that is why i had to use the fire cement. I added a 5&quot; steel pipe flue that acts like a radiator and hold all the heat in my shed, and now i have insulated the roof of my shed I have to keep the door open when the fire is lit as it becomes just way to warm. I plan to do a ible about my shed soon once i finish clearing it out, and all the changes done, a few more weeks hopefully. <br><br>La pared lateral de mi tanque, donde s&oacute;lo 3 mm y se enfrent&oacute; en gran medida debido a que hab&iacute;a sido una se&ntilde;al de compra en la tienda de hardware he trabajado en el despu&eacute;s de haber llegado al final de su vida &uacute;til como un tanque de gas, la compa&ntilde;&iacute;a de gas perforar los tanques, retire la v&aacute;lvula, la reparaci&oacute;n del tanque y agregar un signo de que la v&aacute;lvula se va, que se d&eacute; esta informaci&oacute;n a las tiendas que venden el gas por ellos. una vez que la se&ntilde;al se oxida la tienda luego deshacerse de ellos. es por eso que tuve que usar el cemento refractario. He a&ntilde;adido un 5 &quot;del conducto de humos de acero que act&uacute;a como un radiador y mantener todo el calor en mi cobertizo, y ahora que me he aislado el techo de mi galp&oacute;n que tengo que mantener la puerta abierta cuando se enciende el fuego, ya que se convierte simplemente en forma de caliente. me he propuesto hacer una ible de mi galp&oacute;n pronto una vez que termine de despejar, y todos los cambios que se realicen, unas semanas m&aacute;s esperanzado.
Muy buena idea lo del radiador, yo tengo pensado eso como alternativa si el rendimiento de la salamandra no es suficiente.<br> <br>Very good idea what the radiator, I have thought of that as an alternative if the performance of the salamander is not enough.
Very nice work.<br>Wood burning stoves are quite popular in Turkey. I have seen some where for a section flue pipe is split into four smaller pipes to make a more efficient radiator.<br><br>Another thing I have seen is flue pipes with a large 'ballooned' section containing a small oven.<br>I could not find any examples online so I will have to photograph some next time I see them.
Thanks for yout kind comment, yellowcatt.<br><br>I was thinking to weld some heatsinks, but before I must wait the winter and see how it works.
Hi Rimar : <br>Your new stove should outlive us both ! If you plan to make any more, ( saleable ?) if you cut 1 end off, to make a hinged door, flue at other end, you can fuel it with long wood. Also, if you can duct outside air to where air enters firebox, much more efficient. A layer of clean sand, NO salt, could be used to sheild the bottom of the firebox. <br>Cheers, <br>Dennis.
To outlive me, it needs no much time, Dennis, only other 67 years... ;)<br><br>I don't plan to do another, because for holing it I had to pay U$S 75, and that is a bit of money for me. Besides, I don't know where I could find another cylinder as that.<br><br>It is not neccesary to shield the bottom of the firebox, it is very thick steel, about 3/4 inches.
Hi Rimar : <br>US$75 is too much. Suggest you check out plasma cutting, or the cost of ultra thin cut off wheels, for a disk grinder. <br>Cheers, <br>Dennis
Yes, I agree totally. I can not buy an oxyacethilene torch, then I must pay the owner for he makes the work.
It's a great design but please do not burn plastic bottles.
Thanks for your comment, nnygamer. Please explain me more about plastic bottles. They are anyway condemned to be piled and burned, after travel some days thru the streets, giving a poor spectacle to us the people.
Plastic will give off some toxic chemicals when burned, these can hurt both you and the environment. <br>Collecting them and finding a new use for them would be better, maybe even finding a way to melt them down and cast them into other things.
Yes, you're right, but I must take into account the rate cost / benefit, but before viability. I am a &quot;warm green&quot; and think the main responsibility is not mine but of the rulers, locally and globally.
Un trabajo increible. Felicidades.
Gracias, no es para tanto. Un abrazo.
Nice craftsmanship! I thought the circles for the grate and the chimney collar came out especially well. Did you use a slip roller, a template or just bend them by hand?<br>
Thanks for your kind comment, spike3579.<br><br>I did them by hand, hammer and eyes. It is not difficult if you had made some others during your life (failing often). To do a jig or template I would have taken a longer time, I guess, because the rods are not soft iron but soft steel, and to get a diameter you must begin aiming to one slightly smaller. How much smaller, that is the question! <br><br>In addition, there was no need too much precision in any of the four circles that I made.
You really do some nice work!
Thanks for your kind comment.
I am glad to see you found a good use for your natural gas cylinder. You did a good job.
Me too, Phil. I hope the salamander will work well next winter. <br><br>Thanks for your comment.
It is good way to use dumped materials, but really be careful what are you burning.<br><br>It is because burning plastics in home conditions (not proper temperature, lack of oxygen, no separation of polutants) can be dangerous for yours and others health.<br>Depending on conditions burning of PET can create Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and benzopyrene. Some of them can even cause cancer. But PET is the least dangerous.<br><br>Don't burn polystyrene or PVC because it will create Polychlorinated biphenyl which is really dangerous because it acumulates in ecosystems and causes cancer too.<br>
OK, I know a bit of these danger. Thanks for the warning.<br><br>About PVC, the opinions are very conflicting (like occurs with sodium cyclamate): some persons say that it is very safe to burn it, other say that is dangerous. <br><br>Polystyrene produces a very unpleasant and persistent smell, so I will apart it from the waste before burn. <br><br>About Polyethylene I don't know, I must search the web. In the home waste there are occasionally some little piece of it. Some about Polycarbonate and others.<br><br>Anyway, there are 99.9% possibilities that all that waste end in a big bonfire at open field...
This is a clever and wonderful use of the CNG tank, a heater that will repay the hard work on those cold days!!! I suggest you check the pipe at the roof line, the heat of the pipe can ignite the roof wood if too close. There is a simple collar that will hold the chimney in place and allow for more space around the pipe as it leaves the roof to prevent such a fire hazard, check with heating shops for this collar. Overall this is a very nice stove, and you could burn a log from end to end in an upright position and get every bit of fuel used up with ease. Nice design and solid construction, a delight to see and you made it with so few parts. Thanks for sharing the design, it makes one ponder the possibilities for other such heaters.
Thanks for your kind comment, trike road poet, specially for the advice. I hesitated about it, and finally I decided to leave a space of a few millimeters between the wood floor and the metal pipe. I hope that in normal use the temperature does not become high enough to skip that gap, but still I will be alert.
Very nice work, Osvaldo! Once a heavy steel tank like that heats up, I'll bet it radiates heat for quite a while. Nice instructable!
Thanks for your comment, knife141! <br><br>Was very fun for me to made it, and to fire it was a grateful experience. I hope it will work well. Here the cold is not hard, about 0&ordm; C (32&ordm; F) with some rare exceptions.

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