Instructables

CNG tube salamander stove (salamandra de tubo GNC)

Featured
Hace unos dos meses encontré tirado en un basural (de esos que tienen un gran cartel "PROHIBIDO ARROJAR BASURA") un cilindro de GNC, chico, presuntamente perteneciente a alguno de los varios autos robados que van a parar ahí y terminan en llamas. Con bastante dificultad lo levanté, lo cargué en el baúl del auto y me lo traje a casa, y puse en Instructable una pregunta "¿qué puedo hacer con él?". Hubo varias sugerencias, y finalmente se impuso la idea de hacer una salamandra, porque el gas natural aumentó muchísimo, y mi tallercito puede ser Siberia sin una calefacción.

NOTA: Ver la modificación hecha a la puerta, en http://www.instructables.com/id/Mejorando-la-salamandra-Improving-the-salamander/

About two months ago I found dumped in a landfill (the kind with a big sign "NO LITTERING") a CNG cylinder, little, surely belonging to one of several stolen cars that end up there in flames. With some difficulty I got up it, loaded in the trunk of the car and brought at home. After I put a question on Instructables "What I can do with it?". There were several suggestions, and finally imposed the idea of a salamander, because natural prize gas increased dramatically, and my little shop can be Siberia, without a heater.

NOTE: See modification to the door, in http://www.instructables.com/id/Mejorando-la-salamandra-Improving-the-salamander/
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Cutting (cortando)

Vacié el poco gas que contenía el tubo, le quité la válvula, lo llené de agua dos veces y lo dejé secar algunos días, para eliminar cualquier posibilidad de explosión.

Luego marqué con tinta indeleble la puerta y los agujeros de ambos extremos, y lo llevé a un taller metalúrgico para que lo corten, porque está hecho de acero duro y es imposible para mí poder agujerear los extremos, que tienen casi una pulgada de grosor. Me cobraron bastante el trabajo, pero yo no tenía elección, así que agaché la cabeza y lo pagué.


I drained the little gas containing the tube, removed the valve, filled with water twice and let it dry a few days to eliminate any possibility of explosion.

Then I marked with indelible ink the door and the holes at both ends, and took it to a metal shop to cut, because it is made of hard steel and it is impossible for me to drill the ends, which are nearly an inch thick. They charged me a good deal of money for the work, but I had no choice, so I bowed my head and paid.

Step 2: Emprolijando (tidying up)

Picture of Emprolijando (tidying up)
IMG_7667.JPG
Tuve que rellenar algunos huecos que dejó el soplete, pero me resultó relativamente fácil utilizando la soldadora eléctrica y un trozo de hierro de construcción de 6 mm a manera de electrodo de aporte.

I had to fill some gaps left by the torch, but I found it relatively easy using electric welder and a piece of construction iron of 6 mm by way of contribution electrode.

Step 3: Las embocaduras (mouthpieces)

Picture of Las embocaduras (mouthpieces)
IMG_7673.JPG
Hice dos aros de varilla de hierro de 1"/8, uno para la salida, de 3"/4 de ancho, y otro para la entrada, de 1"/2. Los soldé tratando de que quedaran firmemente pegados al cuerpo del cilindro.

I made two rings of flat iron rod 1"/8, one for output, 3"/4 wide, and one for input, 1"/2 wide. Weld them trying to remain firmly attached to the cylinder body.

Step 4: La parrilla (the grill)

Para sostener la leña, los papeles y cualquier otro combustible a usar, hice una parrilla redonda que calza bien dentro del cilindro. Hice primero el marco redondo y luego le fui soldando varillas paralelas, separadas unos 18 mm entre una y otra. Las varillas quedaron con sección vertical, es decir puestas de canto.

To support the wood, papers and any other fuel to use, I made a round grill that fits well within the cylinder. I made first the round frame and then went welding parallel rods, spaced about 18 mm between them. The rods were in vertical section, it is to say set on edge.

Step 5: El control de flujo de aire (air flow control)

Para poder regular la combustión, porque de otra manera la salamandra "devora" en segundos cualquier combustible que se le ponga, hice una tapa de chapa de hierro de 2mm que se puede cerrar totalmente. La aseguré en la entrada de aire, o sea en la parte inferior, porque me resultó mucho más fácil hacer eso que intercalar una mariposa en el tubo de salida, donde las llamas la pondrían eventualmente al rojo vivo, y reemplazarla implicaría un trabajo mucho mayor.

Agregué un contrapeso en el extremo opuesto a la tapa para balancearla, aunque los tornillos que hacen de eje la aprietan lo suficiente como para que quede fija en la posición que yo le asigne. Tuve la precaución de prever el cambio de la tapa metálica, atornillándola en su lugar en vez de soldarla. Y por las dudas el reemplazo fuera una chapa o cerámica de diferente grosor, agregué unas levas que permiten fijarla en el ángulo necesario para que cierre bien.


To regulate combustion, because otherwise the salamander "eats up" in seconds whatever fuel you put in, did a cover of 2 mm sheet iron which can be closed completely. Fastened it in the air inlet, that is to say at the bottom, because I found much easier to do this than to insert a throttle in the upper pipe, where the flames would eventually red hot it, and replacing it will imply a much greater work.

Added a counterweight at the opposite end to the lid to balance it, although the axis bolts are tightened enough to lock it in the position I assigned. I was careful to provide for the exchange of the metal cap, screwing it in place instead of welding. And just in case the replacement was a different thickness metal or ceramic, added fix cams that allow the angle necessary to close it.

Step 6: La puerta (the door)

Picture of La puerta (the door)
Dado que el corte de la puerta dejó una ranura de unos 5 mm todo alrededor, me vi obligado a agregarle a la puerta un marco a manera de labios, para que al cerrarla cubra toda la abertura. Lo hice con tiras de 1"/8 por 3"/4.

NOTA: ver http://www.instructables.com/id/Mejorando-la-salamandra-Improving-the-salamander/

Since the cutting of the door left a slot of about 5 mm all around, I was forced to add to the door a frame by way of lips, so that when closed covers the entire opening. I did it with strips of 1"/8 by 3"/4.

NOTE: See http://www.instructables.com/id/Mejorando-la-salamandra-Improving-the-salamander/

Step 7: Las bisagras (the hinges)

Picture of Las bisagras (the hinges)
Pensé en improvisar las bisagras, pero finalmente privilegié el tiempo sobre el costo, y compré dos bisagras medianamente robustas, que soldé en sus lugares.

I thought improvise hinges, but ultimately favors the time about the cost, and bought two fairly robust hinges, which I soldered in place.

Step 8: La manija (the handle)

Picture of La manija (the handle)
IMG_7679.JPG
Soldé una tuerca al borde de la puerta, a la cual atornillé firmemente un tornillo que sirve como eje de la manija. Esta es un trozo de varilla plana de hierro que tiene dos tuercas soldadas en un lado, que funcionan como bujes. Luego le soldé un trozo de varilla redonda doblada en forma de gancho, que sirve de pestillo trabando la puerta mediante un tornillo que está fijado a una tuerca soldada al cuerpo de la salamandra.

Weld a nut to the edge of the door, on which firmly screwed a screw which serves as the axis of the handle. This is a piece of flat iron bar having two nuts welded on one side, which serve as hubs. Then I welded a piece of round rod bent into a hook, which serves to  latch the door by a screw which is fixed to a nut welded to the body of the salamander

Step 9: Las patas (legs)

Con algunos restos de hierro T le hice tres patas, con pestañas en los extremos para atornillarlas al piso.

With some leftovers of  T iron I made three legs, with flanges on the ends to screw them to the floor.

Step 10: La chimenea (chimney)

Tuve que optar entre comprar tubos de fundición, que son mucho más durables, pesados y caros, o de hierro. Me decidí por estos últimos, con la idea de que si dentro de unos años se agujerean (y yo todavía estoy vivo), el problema se resuelve fácilmente reemplazando o reparando la parte afectada. Por otra parte, instalarlos sin ayuda no sería fácil. Luego de haberlo hecho, me felicité por la decisión. La chimenea está compuesta de dos trozos de 1,63 m, que en su parte media están simplemente apoyados uno sobre el otro, sostenidos en su lugar por una brida que los asegura a la pared.

I had to choose between buying cast iron pipes, which are much more durable, heavy, expensive, or iron. I chose the latter, with the idea that in a few years if they are bored (and I'm still alive), the problem is easily solved by replacing or repairing the affected part. In addition, to install without help would not be easy. After I did, I congratulated the decision. The chimney is composed of two pieces of 1.63 m, which in its middle part are simply supported one above the other, held in place by a flange which fixes them to the wall.

Step 11: Preparando la primera prueba (preparing first test)

Dado que el tubo de GNC venía pintado de amarillo, debí hacer la primera prueba en el patio, para evitar que mi taller se llenara de humo por la pintura quemada. Fue una previsión acertada, como se puede ver en las fotos.

Instalé la salamandra en la pared exterior del taller, para lo cual debí agregar una brida provisoria para sostener el extremo superior de la chimenea.

Because the CNG tube had been painted yellow, I should make the first test in the yard, to avoid my shop be filled with smoke from the burned paint. It was a wise provision, as seen in the photos.

I installed the salamander on the outside wall of the workshop, for which I should add a temporary clamp to hold the upper end of the chimney.

Step 12: Encendiendo la fiera (powering the beast)

Picture of Encendiendo la fiera (powering the beast)
IMG_7693.JPG
IMG_7703.JPG
Durante los días previos fui acumulando todo tipo de basura combustible, para poder hacer elevar la temperatura de la salamandra lo suficiente como para quemar totalmente la pintura. Papeles, botellas plásticas, envoltorios y maderas inútiles para otro fin.

De entrada me sorprendió la facilidad con que encendió y cobró intensidad rápidamente el fuego. A los pocos segundos de comenzar, tuve que cerrar la entrada de aire casi totalmente, para mantenerlo dentro de límites normales, dado que por la punta la chimenea salían algunos papeles encendidos.

La pintura comenzó primero a humear y luego a quemarse y caer en escamas. La parte superior fue la última en quemarse.


During the days before I was accumulating all sorts of rubbish fuel, to be able to raise the temperature of the salamander enough to completely burn the paint. Paper, plastic bottles, packaging and wood, useless for other purposes.

At the outset I was surprised how easily it ignited and the fire quickly escalated. Within seconds of starting, I had to shut off the air inlet almost entirely, to keep it within normal limits, because
some papers out by the chimney tip.

The painting first began to smolder and then burn out and fall in flakes. The top was the last to burn.

Step 13: Ruge! (it roars!)

Promediando la prueba, escuché una especie de rugido bastante fuerte que variaba de intensidad y tono al mover el regulador de flujo de aire. Grabé un clip de video para ilustrarlo. Lamentablemente el micrófono de mi cámara tiene algún problema porque graba a bajo volumen.

La cantidad de ceniza producida fue mucho menor que lo esperado, posiblemente debido a que mucha escapó por la chimenea, para regocijo del vecindario.

A los pocos minutos de haberla encendido, ya se había quemado totalmente la pintura.



At half of the test, I heard a loud enough roar that varied in intensity and tone by moving the air flow regulator. I recorded a video clip to illustrate it. Unfortunately my camera's microphone has a problem because it records at low volume.

The amount of ash produced was much lower than expected, possibly because many ashes escaped through the chimney, to the delight of the neighborhood.

A few minutes after having fired on, it had burned all the paint.


Step 14: Cosm�tica (cosmetics)

Picture of Cosm�tica (cosmetics)
Una vez que se enfrió le pasé un cepillo de acero rotativo y la pinté con pintura negra para alta temperatura. La chimenea recibió un tratamiento parecido, solo que en vez de cepillo usé lija y líquido fosfatizante para eliminar algunas manchas de óxido.

Once cooled I slipped a rotating wire brush and painted it with black paint for high temperature. The chimney was treated like that, but instead of brush I used sandpaper and phosphatizant liquid to remove some rust stains.

Step 16: Instalaci�n definitiva (final installation)

La ubiqué en su lugar dentro del taller, agujereé el entrepiso y el techo, pasé los caños, los aseguré en su lugar y atornillé las patas de la salamandra al piso. Para sellar el agujero de la chapa del techo usé silicona, y tengo pensado reforzarla dentro de unos días y cubrirla con papel de aluminio para protegerla del sol.

I located it in place within the workshop, bore the mezzanine and the roof, thread the pipes, fastened them in place and screwed the legs of the salamander to the floor. To seal the hole in the roof sheet I used silicone, and I have in a few days to reinforce and cover it with foil to protect from the sun.

Step 17: En resumen (conclusion)

Estoy más que satisfecho con el resultado. Trabajé aproximadamente una semana, con varias interrupciones, pero la salamandra salió tal como la diseñé, y funciona mucho mejor que lo esperado.

Durante el uso normal no la llevaré nunca a una temperatura tan alta como durante la primera prueba, supongo que con encender un pequeño fuego a la mañana y otro a la tarde será suficiente para mantener confortable mi taller. Lo interesante es que el tiraje de la chimenea es muy bueno, lo cual me asegura que no tendré el taller lleno de humo.

Pronto comienza la época de poda, y mi ciudad se llenará de montones de ramas, de las cuales podré obtener leña gratis. Por otra parte, voy a preparar un lugar para seleccionar de los residuos domésticos todo lo que sea combustible.

Futuro: lo siguiente será opcional, dependiendo de las necesidades y posibilidades:
  1. Esperar el frío y entonces sí, estrenarla con fanfarria, discursos, desfile y alfombra roja.
  2. Agregar al interior de la puerta una pequeña parrilla redonda desmontable, para usar la salamandra como horno y    hacer bollos, carne, fruta, chorizos, etc.
  3. Soldar en la parte superior una chapa horizontal que sirva como mejora a la disipación del calor y también para    apoyar un recipiente para calentar agua.
  4. Tengo que conseguir una sartén un poco más grande para recoger las cenizas.
I am more than satisfied with the result. I worked about a week, with several interruptions, but the salamander went just as I designed, and works much better than expected.

During normal use not ever take a temperature as high as during the first test, I guess with lighting a small fire in the morning and another at afternoon will be enough to keep
comfortable my shop. The interesting thing is that the circulation of the chimney is very good, which assures me I will not have a smoky workshop.

Soon begins here the time of pruning, and my city will be filled with lots of branches, of which I get free firewood. Moreover, I will prepare a place for household waste selecting whatever is fuel.

Future: The following is optional, depending on the needs and possibilities:

  1. Expect cold, then yes, release it with fanfare, speeches, parade and red carpet.
  2. Add into the door a small round detachable grill for use the salamander as oven and make buns, meat, fruit, sausages, etc.
  3. Weld at the top an horizontal plate to serve as improved heat dissipation and to support a container for heating water.
  4. I have to get a slightly larger pan to collect the ashes.
jrek3 months ago
The hole where the chimney goes thru the mezzanine floor is too small. That single wall pipe can turn red hot if the tar that forms inside of it catches fire (and it will). I hope you will consider enlarging it by a couple of inches away from the pipe then sheilding the wood with something like a clay pot or metal sleave. Same thing where it goes through the roof.
Cool stove ;)
rimar2000 (author)  jrek3 months ago
Thanks, jrek, I never thought that. Another solution could be to clean each two or three years the inner of the chimney. I had noticed that pounding the tube, some scales of rust-tar-dirt fall into the salamander sometimes. Perhaps I shall be obliged to repair or replace the tube in one or two years. The walls are 2 mm thick, that is easily penetrable.
MR..1 year ago
WOW!! I love this design. I was thinking of making something similar to this very soon.
rimar2000 (author)  MR..1 year ago
Thanks, MR..

Glad you find useful my instructable.
blkhawk1 year ago
Don Osvaldo, I would like to suggest that you exchange the word "butterfly" on the English text on step 5 for the word "throttle" which in your case is the right translation for your project. I want to ask you if this "salamandra" works with the same principle as a rocket stove. Thank you very much.

Don Osvaldo me gustaria sugerirle que cambie la palabra "butterfly" en el texto en ingles en el paso 5 por la palabra "throttle", la cual es la traduccion correcta en el caso de su proyecto. Quiero preguntarle si esta salamandra trabaja con el mismo principio de la estufa cohete. Muchas gracias.
rimar2000 (author)  blkhawk1 year ago
Thanks blkhawk, done the correction.

I don't know any rocket stove, but it is probable this salamander is one of them. When I feed it with enough fuel (papers, woods, PET, etc) IT ROARS LOUDLY.
I have been interested in building a rocket heater to warm my garage which gets cold at this time of the year. I liked your project very much because it is very well designed. If it roars like you said, it works like a rocket stove/heater. Thank you very much Don Osvaldo!

 Yo he estado interesado en construir una calefaccion cohete para calentar mi garaje, el cual es muy frio durante esta epoca del año. Me gusto mucho su proyecto porque esta muy bien diseñado. Si ruge como usted dice, trabaja como una estufa/calefaccion cohete. ¡Muchisimas gracias Don Osvaldo!
RC Guy1 year ago
nice work
rimar2000 (author)  RC Guy1 year ago
Thanks. Last week I did it an improvement: cut the door in two: one bigger beneath, to clean the ashes each morning and initiate the fire, and other littler up, to feed firewood when the salamander is on. Maybe I will post the instructable.
A beautiful piece of recycling,
and a lovely piece of useful art.
Rimar, where do you live?
Thank you for the inspiration.
~ ricardo
rimar2000 (author)  Ricardo Furioso1 year ago
I live in Argentina, near La Plata city.

Thanks for your kind comment.
Dr Qui2 years ago
Fantastic build Rimar. nice design and build, I was glad to see you burned the paint of your tank before you painted it black, I didn't and the yellow paint eventually bubbled and lifted and I had to grind the old paint of with a flap disk.

Glad to see you got this one featured, of all of my Ibles My wood stove was the one i really wanted to get a feature for as its the thing I'm proudest of so far, but such is life, you screw 2 ball bearings together and it an instant hit and  gets 75k hits so far

I laughed when i saw the frying pan as the ash pan, I also use an old saucepan as a ash pan too, must be universal thinking.

Let the ashes build up in the bottom they help hold heat and slow the burn time down which saves fuel, just remove enough to let some air in, I only clean my stove out when the grate get blocked up with old nails and screws from the scrap timber I burn.

Very nice steel work on the grate and the overall build, I went down the rough and tough re-bar road when i make my grate a i didnot know how long it would last before it burned out, iiit is still hold out well 5 years down the line.

I fitted a larger flue in 2 sections so it could be dismantled if it ever blocks again, i will post a few soon as I'm in the process of clearing out and changing the layout of my shed, I will post a Ible of the various things I have changed.

Save your sawdust and wood shavings and all your old newspapers and make your own fuel bricks. Check out my Ible on Bio Fuel Briquettes.

I lined my wood stove with 3/4" of fire cement, that really help hold the heat for a few hours after the fire has died out. Its an option if you find the tank loses heat to quickly when the fire is out.

The warmest feeling you will get from it is when people find out that you built it yourself. everyone who has seen my wood stove thinks that it was store bought.

Fantástico Rimar construcción. buen diseño y construcción, me alegré de ver que queman la pintura de su tanque antes de pintar de negro, yo no, y la pintura amarilla con el tiempo burbujeaba y se levantó y tuve que rectificar la pintura vieja con un disco de la solapa.

Me alegra ver que tienes éste aparece, de todos mis ibles Mi estufa de leña era la que yo realmente quería tener una función de como lo estoy más orgulloso hasta ahora, pero así es la vida, te equivocas 2 rodamientos de bolas juntos y en un éxito instantáneo y se pone 75K éxitos hasta el momento

Me reí cuando vi la sartén como el cenicero, yo también uso una olla vieja como un cenicero también, debe ser el pensamiento universal.

Que las cenizas se acumulan en el fondo ayudan a mantener el calor y disminuir el tiempo de grabación por lo que ahorra combustible, sólo quitar lo suficiente para dejar un poco de aire, yo sólo limpiar mi cocina cuando la reja se bloquean con clavos viejos y los tornillos de la desechos de madera que quemar.

Muy bonito el trabajo de acero en la parrilla y la construcción del conjunto, me fui por el áspero y duro camino de re-bar cuando hago mi rejilla ai nose sabe cuánto tiempo iba a durar antes de que se quemó, IIIT aún así resistir hasta 5 años la línea.

Me instalado un tubo más grande en 2 secciones por lo que podría ser desmantelada si alguna vez se bloquea de nuevo, voy a publicar algunos más pronto que estoy en el proceso de limpiar y cambiar el diseño de mi nave, voy a publicar una visibles de la varias cosas que han cambiado.

Guarde sus aserrín y madera y todos los periódicos a sus viejos y hacer sus ladrillos de combustible propias. Echa un vistazo a mi ible de briquetas de combustible Bio.

Forré mi estufa de leña con 3/4 "de cemento refractario, que realmente ayudan a mantener el calor durante unas pocas horas después del incendio se ha extinguido. Su opción si usted encuentra el tanque pierde calor rápidamente cuando el fuego se haya extinguido.

La más cálida sensación que se obtiene de ella es cuando la gente se entera de que lo construyó a ti mismo. todos los que han visto a mi estufa de leña cree que fue comprado en la tienda.
rimar2000 (author)  Dr Qui2 years ago
Your desing is more elaborated than mine, DrQui, and cuter .

But I am quite rebel about some popular concepts: I don't agree about the inner refractary covering. I think the heat must exit quickly from the stove, before it goes to the chimney. Anyway, it will be absorbed by the environment: walls, air, furniture, etc. This is preferable than lost it for the exhaust.
The side wall of my tank where only 3mm and it was heavily pitted because it had been a shop sign at the hardware store i worked in after it reached the end of its useful life as a gas tank, the gas company drill the tanks, remove the valve, repair the tank and add a sign where the valve goes, they give these out to the stores who sell the gas for them. once the sign get rusty the store then throw them out. that is why i had to use the fire cement. I added a 5" steel pipe flue that acts like a radiator and hold all the heat in my shed, and now i have insulated the roof of my shed I have to keep the door open when the fire is lit as it becomes just way to warm. I plan to do a ible about my shed soon once i finish clearing it out, and all the changes done, a few more weeks hopefully.

La pared lateral de mi tanque, donde sólo 3 mm y se enfrentó en gran medida debido a que había sido una señal de compra en la tienda de hardware he trabajado en el después de haber llegado al final de su vida útil como un tanque de gas, la compañía de gas perforar los tanques, retire la válvula, la reparación del tanque y agregar un signo de que la válvula se va, que se dé esta información a las tiendas que venden el gas por ellos. una vez que la señal se oxida la tienda luego deshacerse de ellos. es por eso que tuve que usar el cemento refractario. He añadido un 5 "del conducto de humos de acero que actúa como un radiador y mantener todo el calor en mi cobertizo, y ahora que me he aislado el techo de mi galpón que tengo que mantener la puerta abierta cuando se enciende el fuego, ya que se convierte simplemente en forma de caliente. me he propuesto hacer una ible de mi galpón pronto una vez que termine de despejar, y todos los cambios que se realicen, unas semanas más esperanzado.
rimar2000 (author)  Dr Qui2 years ago
Muy buena idea lo del radiador, yo tengo pensado eso como alternativa si el rendimiento de la salamandra no es suficiente.

Very good idea what the radiator, I have thought of that as an alternative if the performance of the salamander is not enough.
yellowcatt2 years ago
Very nice work.
Wood burning stoves are quite popular in Turkey. I have seen some where for a section flue pipe is split into four smaller pipes to make a more efficient radiator.

Another thing I have seen is flue pipes with a large 'ballooned' section containing a small oven.
I could not find any examples online so I will have to photograph some next time I see them.
rimar2000 (author)  yellowcatt2 years ago
Thanks for yout kind comment, yellowcatt.

I was thinking to weld some heatsinks, but before I must wait the winter and see how it works.
AR10NZ2 years ago
Hi Rimar :
Your new stove should outlive us both ! If you plan to make any more, ( saleable ?) if you cut 1 end off, to make a hinged door, flue at other end, you can fuel it with long wood. Also, if you can duct outside air to where air enters firebox, much more efficient. A layer of clean sand, NO salt, could be used to sheild the bottom of the firebox.
Cheers,
Dennis.
rimar2000 (author)  AR10NZ2 years ago
To outlive me, it needs no much time, Dennis, only other 67 years... ;)

I don't plan to do another, because for holing it I had to pay U$S 75, and that is a bit of money for me. Besides, I don't know where I could find another cylinder as that.

It is not neccesary to shield the bottom of the firebox, it is very thick steel, about 3/4 inches.
Hi Rimar :
US$75 is too much. Suggest you check out plasma cutting, or the cost of ultra thin cut off wheels, for a disk grinder.
Cheers,
Dennis
$75 - I am not sure of the local pricing and wages etc.. but for the amount of gas consumed and the time taken to cut it, and to make a profit on the job, that actually seems to be a fair price.

The ultra thin cut off wheels would have been OK on the straight cuts, around the side of the cylinder, for the door, BUT going on the cheap DOES have it's limitations and drawbacks...

Once the steel gets to it's softening point - it doesn't matter how tough it is, but this is a lot of steel in thickness, it's an interesting shape so the disks would have been OK for the door. But cutting out the ends - no hope.

Some days - it's better to just pay the people with the right equipment, and to get the job done right the first time - quickly and neatly etc.

Cutting with a disk grinder....

It's HARD to cut neat holes THROUGH the ends with a disk grinder.

Better to pay the right people with the right gear and be done with it.

rimar2000 (author)  Wroger-Wroger2 years ago
Yes, I agree totally. I can not buy an oxyacethilene torch, then I must pay the owner for he makes the work.
nnygamer2 years ago
It's a great design but please do not burn plastic bottles.
rimar2000 (author)  nnygamer2 years ago
Thanks for your comment, nnygamer. Please explain me more about plastic bottles. They are anyway condemned to be piled and burned, after travel some days thru the streets, giving a poor spectacle to us the people.
Plastic will give off some toxic chemicals when burned, these can hurt both you and the environment.
Collecting them and finding a new use for them would be better, maybe even finding a way to melt them down and cast them into other things.
rimar2000 (author)  nnygamer2 years ago
Yes, you're right, but I must take into account the rate cost / benefit, but before viability. I am a "warm green" and think the main responsibility is not mine but of the rulers, locally and globally.
Tazo2 years ago
Un trabajo increible. Felicidades.
rimar2000 (author)  Tazo2 years ago
Gracias, no es para tanto. Un abrazo.
spike35792 years ago
Nice craftsmanship! I thought the circles for the grate and the chimney collar came out especially well. Did you use a slip roller, a template or just bend them by hand?
rimar2000 (author)  spike35792 years ago
Thanks for your kind comment, spike3579.

I did them by hand, hammer and eyes. It is not difficult if you had made some others during your life (failing often). To do a jig or template I would have taken a longer time, I guess, because the rods are not soft iron but soft steel, and to get a diameter you must begin aiming to one slightly smaller. How much smaller, that is the question!

In addition, there was no need too much precision in any of the four circles that I made.
WWC2 years ago
You really do some nice work!
rimar2000 (author)  WWC2 years ago
Thanks for your kind comment.
Phil B2 years ago
I am glad to see you found a good use for your natural gas cylinder. You did a good job.
rimar2000 (author)  Phil B2 years ago
Me too, Phil. I hope the salamander will work well next winter.

Thanks for your comment.
johnyhacek2 years ago
It is good way to use dumped materials, but really be careful what are you burning.

It is because burning plastics in home conditions (not proper temperature, lack of oxygen, no separation of polutants) can be dangerous for yours and others health.
Depending on conditions burning of PET can create Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and benzopyrene. Some of them can even cause cancer. But PET is the least dangerous.

Don't burn polystyrene or PVC because it will create Polychlorinated biphenyl which is really dangerous because it acumulates in ecosystems and causes cancer too.
rimar2000 (author)  johnyhacek2 years ago
OK, I know a bit of these danger. Thanks for the warning.

About PVC, the opinions are very conflicting (like occurs with sodium cyclamate): some persons say that it is very safe to burn it, other say that is dangerous.

Polystyrene produces a very unpleasant and persistent smell, so I will apart it from the waste before burn.

About Polyethylene I don't know, I must search the web. In the home waste there are occasionally some little piece of it. Some about Polycarbonate and others.

Anyway, there are 99.9% possibilities that all that waste end in a big bonfire at open field...
This is a clever and wonderful use of the CNG tank, a heater that will repay the hard work on those cold days!!! I suggest you check the pipe at the roof line, the heat of the pipe can ignite the roof wood if too close. There is a simple collar that will hold the chimney in place and allow for more space around the pipe as it leaves the roof to prevent such a fire hazard, check with heating shops for this collar. Overall this is a very nice stove, and you could burn a log from end to end in an upright position and get every bit of fuel used up with ease. Nice design and solid construction, a delight to see and you made it with so few parts. Thanks for sharing the design, it makes one ponder the possibilities for other such heaters.
rimar2000 (author)  trike road poet2 years ago
Thanks for your kind comment, trike road poet, specially for the advice. I hesitated about it, and finally I decided to leave a space of a few millimeters between the wood floor and the metal pipe. I hope that in normal use the temperature does not become high enough to skip that gap, but still I will be alert.
knife1412 years ago
Very nice work, Osvaldo! Once a heavy steel tank like that heats up, I'll bet it radiates heat for quite a while. Nice instructable!
Pro

Get More Out of Instructables

Already have an Account?

close

PDF Downloads
As a Pro member, you will gain access to download any Instructable in the PDF format. You also have the ability to customize your PDF download.

Upgrade to Pro today!