In this Instructable I will show you how to make a simple, cheap and effective HHO torch that can melt small pieces of metals like tin cans. This can be used in various applications it can be connected into your fire torch or in your car which is also known as the HHO Hybrid Generator which can reduce your fuel consumption although I don’t have a car I am still a 12 years old boy.


A lot of people are asking what and how does a HHO Torch/Generator works. It is simple a HHO torch/Generator separates water molecules into gas, now you will have a mixture of Oxygen and Hydrogen gas which can give a powerful kick or flame.


- You can connect this in a fire torch pin which I will show you how to make.
- You can use this for your car to reduce fuel consumption. But this will not be mentioned for this Instructable, it would be better of you Google it.
- You can use this to weld o melt thin metals

Warning: It is not my responsibility if any of you gets injured or burned so don't blame me for your mistake. Luckily I made some safety features which are already tested and prevents some common problems with HHO converter like explosions and implosions which creates cracks or even explosions. Hydrogen are highly explosive especially of you mix it with Oxygen. Batteries not included.

Be sure to rate this a 5 star. This instructions are very rare and hard to find.

Step 1: Materials

You Will Need:

- Vinyl Tubing/Fish Tank Tube 2m (50c)
- Air Tight Container x2 ($1) 
- Fish Tank Tube Connectors x3 (30c)
- Stainless Steel Plates x12 ($2)
- Wire 1m (20c)
- 12 Volts Battery (revised)
- Inflation Pin (10c)

Nice ibble'! I really wanna try it but in Singapore, 12 year old boys like me aren't often seen cutting steel and making a torch...
PS: The clingwrap pressure valve was ingenius!
This is awesome!! A must try for this weekend!!!
AWESOME! This is a very good Instructable! Thanks, I will try to do it!
such a nice job
Best guide on making HHO torches. Thanks this is just what I need.
Cool project, well written and documented. I've had a build for one of these on the agenda for a while, because nobody answers any questions about them. <br> <br>Compared to a normal torch how would the flame be, in terms of heat and gas flow?
Nice. I have something similar and used an inflation pin but I keep getting flashbacks. Any ideas? Does this happen from too little HHO flowing?
<p>try adding small amount of alchol to your bubbler it bwill improve the flame and less flash back a small fuel filter can be use as a flash back arrestor</p>
No, this just happens due to burning. The same thing would happen during welding except that you have a backfire/flame arrestor. With this design you will also not have stable PSI which is possibly another issue. Not using an arrestor is dangerous. You can either use an oxygen/hydrogen arrestor (used for gas welding) or appropriately a Gas Torch Mount Flashback Arrestor (I would suggest the latter but either would be better than none and the welding one should run around $10).
Thanks for the reply. I did have a flashback arrestor similar to what is shown in the picture - a jar with the gas running through the water. But the flashbacks kept blowing the lid off the jar. I tried to let it run for a few minutes first to see if there was a problem with air mixture. Maybe it's something like what happens on a vehicle? If there are any leaks in the exhaust the car will back fire. Maybe I don't have a well sealed line?
I would say that the problem is that you have a complete recipe for combustion. A burn or explosion needs three things to happen. Oxygen, fuel and a source. The HHO is both fuel and oxygen in one, so having an air leak would not cause this problem. A venturi-type regulator like on some low-end grills would not do anything either. To be honest, the only flammable gases I have ever really worked with have been hydrocarbons, and usually the containers had a gas mixture too rich to backfire. I dunno how you can solve this problem, but the idea of PSI being a problem might help somewhat. Perhaps pumping it into a bike inner tube?
producing too much oxygen will kill a fire, you need a correct ratio to burn, you add more O2, and you can cool or even slow the burn rate down, but a no flammable gas like argon, burns but does not explode, thats why they use it in welders, it stops the vortex created with a burning flame, and takes the oxygen, and every other known impurity out of the weld, they use hydrogen and argon to get a hotter weld area. try it - you can pick up a small gas bottle for about $30 from Australians masters/bunnings, i use it for nitro cars ;) 20 argon / 40 nitro / 40 diesel, its a great mixture, and boy oh boy does it give a bang!, but i use argon to delete the need for brace in the chamber and to remove the carbon build up...... and my engines run almost 100 degrees cooler, stop engine was 250 - 260 now i can get it as low as 110, and add more fuel!!!!!
HHO is the recipe for an explosion the perfect mix of fuel and oxygen, to get a sustainable flame you need to introduce an inert gas to reduce the burn rate of the HHO, you need to add an air compressor to the system and as air has a high percentage of inert nitrogen gas you can achieve a sustained flame. I know a guy who is tinkering at HHO production and he has achieved a sustained flame by this method.
use sheild pro 31, will get a BETTER! result ;) ARGON removes impurity from the atmosphere ;) think about it, pressure + nitrogen, perfect! run at about 30 psi on a 4000kpa tank, your tank will outlive your plates! :P
<p>Does it really work? The last time i did such a thing the O/H mix exploded into the electrolysis container</p>
I was thinking of using lithium for the electrolytes and either a multi cylinder rig or a multi helix rig for the electrode. To be honest I don't know much about any of this and am just fancied by so I want to experiment. However, if I'm way off the mark please let me know. Also I was thinking of using a solar battery set up and solar heating with mirrors and possibly a lightly concentrated magnifying glass (if necessary) to heat up the solution. Also theoretically speaking wouldn't it be more efficient to have your little plastic wrap pressure release valves open up into a separate air tight reservoir. This should prevent total lost of the gasses as well as prevent the flames from burning wildly. Having said that you still want to add an additional pressure release diaphragm/ valve exiting from the secondary chamber. Any ideas and or comments are appreciated. As I said I know very little of the subject matter. The end result for me is to use it as a source of heat/ energy for a fallout bunker.
<p>mention sanding the plates pls</p>
Where did you get the stainless steel? I can't find it anywhere cheep like that
can you put a vid of it working in the 'ibble? Thanks
<p>12 you are amasing but i would have liked it working</p>
Could you fit a non-return valve to the outlet so pressure would have to build up before it opens? <br>I think the aquarium ones open around 1/2~2psi?
Yes you can!
Hey lol man...I'm not all science,kinda person...with that said...by now...you have a car? Just wondering,if or what this unit could do? Also you say u have plans for a bigger? Did I miss something? And what would it do as far as on a car?
crazypj, add a air pump the the mixture ;) you know the blubbers too ad oxygen :p, these run at about 5 - 8 psi, add a ball value too it, and that will give you a little more pressure, and a good oxygen and hho mix, you still need oxygen for fuel to burn in this atmosphere, thats why they have a oxygen tank on the space shuttles, because they use liquid hydrogen to send them into space, also, depending on your output, try adding small house, and a bigger bubblier :p
I had no pressure release system so mine exploded and parts whent everywhere
why do you not show it working?
Back then, I was 11 when I posted this guide. I didn't have a videocam before, nor a smartphone.
<p>have you improved on this design since then?</p>
<p>Would highly recommend installing two check valves (sure one is great but two is even better) one at torch end and one more near the tank. I found some cheap ones online like <br><br>CVU-2-KV</p>
<p>It would be a good idea for more safety including an arrestor too to the pipe. Even adding brass wool in the pipe to stop flame from explosion.</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>Well done! I've been tinkering with hho for a wile now and I now have a wet cell made out of pvc with 10 plates of food grade stainless and it works wonders! Wilth my experience I would recommend that you use something other than salt or baking soda for your electrolyte: salt creates chlorine gas and is hard on the plates and baking soda produces small traces of carbon monoxide and dioxide wile it harshly eats away at stainless.</p>
<p>hey i have some questions wondering if i can get in contact with you?</p>
<p>Super 'ible! Really like the cling wrap safety trick. Please accept Max Genius Award!</p>
<p>What's the purpose of the bubbler ?</p>
<p>The bubbler prevents flames from travelling up the pipe and into the generator, which could cause an explosion!</p>
To remove excess water to get pure hho.
<p>It protects the generator itself by taking the blast if something would explode, which keeps both you and the generator safe. </p><p>You can also use the back of a ciggarett as a backflash.</p>
<p>We can make it for you to order!</p><p>Please<a href="http://www.foxconn-precision.com/" rel="nofollow"> contact us.</a></p>
<p>Very nice instructables i made one only with 9 plates instead, the only problem is the flame arrestor if you do not have one the hydrogen could back fire and cause the whole rig to blow up (trust me i know for experience) and it does hurt...BAD </p>
<p>i used steel wool as a spark arrester and it works fine the first time i tried it without a spark arrester it backfired and blew my bubbler to bits also you i have found that if you are in fact going to use the torch for a longer amount of time try using a liquid that evaporates quickly in the bubble like acetone this will evaporate quickly and help keep your tip cool otherwise you could melt the tip </p>
<p>i doubt this set-up actually provides sufficient pressure to act as a torch. A lighter, maybe, but not a torch. Torches need their fuel/oxygen mixture to be highly pressurized so that the gases can come out fast enough to make a strong jet of fire. It also helps the gases to flow faster than they're being burned up and &quot;keep up with the fire&quot; helping prevent back-flash. It needs something to build up the pressure and ALSO regulate it. Refer to blowtorches.</p>
<p>&quot; Why you should not use stainless steel electrodes for electrolysis &quot;</p><p><br> Many people using the electrolysis method for rust reduction swear by stainless steel, stating (incorrectly) that it's not consumed, stays clean and seems safe.<br> Stainless steel is indeed consumed when used in the electrolysis process, although slowly. The main problem with using it is the hazardous waste it produces. Stainless steel contains chromium. The electrodes, and thus the chromium is consumed, and you end up with poisonous chromates in your electrolyte. Dumping these on the ground or down the drain is illegal. The compounds can cause severe skin problems and ultimately, cancer. Hexavalent chromate is poisonous. These compounds are not excused from hazardous waste regulations where household wastes are. <br> These compounds are bad enough that government regulations mandate &quot;elimination of hexavalent chromate by 2007 for corrosion protection.&quot;<br><br><br>Does your electrolyte turn yellow? That's a sign of chromates. <br><br>If you have been using stainless steel for the anodes (positive electrodes), wear rubber gloves when working with or near the liquids. If you need to dispose of it, allow it to evaporate into powders and dispose of the powders in sealed containers during your local &quot;hazardous waste clean-up days&quot;.<br><br>Best bet - don't use stainless steel no matter how tempting it is.</p>
What thickness plates work best? Must they be stainless? How are the magnet wires attached?
<p>You need a metal pipe to connet to the flame nozzel if you use for longer time, or plastic will melt.</p>
Try using Stainless steel mesh instead of plates give more gas
or aluminium
aluminum corodes
<p>aluminum works better than steel since it does not dillute the solution with corrosion. But you have to wash the aluminum plates to remove the plaque buildup.</p>

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Bio: Join me as I build fun and random weekend projects!
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