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Hace algún tiempo, desarmando algo que ya no tenía arreglo, encontré este trozo de rulemán plano –crapodina– que en su momento había sido usado como arandela. Tuve el buen tino de conservarlo.

Dado que mis herramientas de corte caseras hechas con rulemanes dieron buen resultado, decidí darle a este trozo de acero duro el mismo uso.


Some time ago, dismantling something that was beyond repair, I found this piece of flat ball bearing (crapodine?), which was used as a washer. I had the good sense to keep it.

Since my home-made cutting tools with ball bearing gave good result, I decided to give to this piece of hard steel the same use.

Step 1: Temporary Support (soporte Provisorio)


Lo primero fue conseguir algunas arandelas que me permitieran asegurar la pieza mediante un tornillo a un mango de madera, de manera que pudiera girar.

The first step is to get some washers to attach the piece with a screw to a wooden handle, so that it would rotate..


Step 2: Afilando (sharping)


Afilé el borde de la arandela de acero, en chanfle, para lo cual la apoyé inclinada sobre la amoladora de pared, logrando de esta manera que girara mientras se afilaba. Así logré un filo aceptablemente parejo.

I sharpened the edge of the steel washer,  making a chamfer, for which I supported it tilted on the wall grinder, allowing it to spin while being sharpened. This gave me a good, smooth, sharp edge.

Step 3: Soporte Definitivo (final Support)


Corté un trozo de unos 7 cm de varilla de hierro de 3/16 x 3/4 pulgadas, le hice un agujero cerca de un extremo y le hice rosca. Redondeé el extremo alrededor del agujero roscado, y con la amoladora de pared le di forma chanfleada al borde.


Cut a length of about 7 cm (2.75 inches) of iron rod, 3/16 x 3/4 inches, I made a hole near one end and threaded it. Round the end around the threaded hole, and with the wall grinder I beveled the edge.

Step 4: Armando Todo (putting All Together)


Con un tornillo, y usando las mismas arandelas del paso 1, aseguré la pieza cortante al soporte definitivo. Agregué una contratuerca para evitar que al usar la herramienta, el tornillo se afloje con las vibraciones.

With a screw, and using the same washers from step 1, Ifastened the cutting piece to the final support. I then added a nut to keep the screwthread from loosening due to vibration.

Step 5: Agregando Un Mango (adding a Handle)


Corté un trozo de unos 20 cm de varilla de 1/8 x 1/2 pulgadas, lo aseguré junto con la pieza recién hecha a una herradura –truco aprendido en Mecánica Popular– mediante dos prensas de mano, y soldé la unión.


Cut a length of about 20 cm (7.875 inches) ) of steel stock, size 1/8 thick x 1/2 inch wide, made sure the freshly made piece along with a horseshoe –trick learned in Popular Mechanics–, using two hand presses, and weld the joint

Step 6: Probando (testing)


Esta herramienta es adecuada para alisar en el torno perfiles planos o suavemente curvos, y tiene la ventaja de que el tiempo entre afilado/asentado es el doble o el triple de las otras herramientas, dado que cuando un lado se desafila, aflojo el tornillo y la giro un poco para usar la parte que todavía está filosa.


This tool is suitable for turning (stock material) on a lathe or gently curved flat surfaces, and has the advantage that the time between sharpening this tool is two to three times that of other tools, because when one side becomes dull, you can simply loosen the screw and twist it a little bit to use the part that is still sharp.
<br>&quot;With a screw (bolt?), and using the same washers from step 1, (I) fastened the cutting piece to the final support. I then added a nut to keep the screwthread from loosening due to vibration&quot;
Done, Thanks very much.<br><br>Regard bolt or screw, I thought that a bolt is as a rivet, it have no thread. Is it so?
<br>'This tool is suitable for turning (stock material) on a lathe or gently curved flat surfaces, and has the advantage that the time between sharpening this tool is two to three times that of other tools, because when one side becomes dull, you can simply loosen the screw and twist it a little bit to use the part (of the tool) that is still sharp.&quot;
&quot;Cut a length of about 20 cm (US measure: 7 7/8 inches or 7.875&quot;) of steel stock, size 1/8 thick x 1/2 inch wide, bending the metal into the shape of a horseshoe &ndash; a trick I learned in Popular Mechanics (magazine)&ndash; Use two C clamps (to hold the piece), then weld the joint.&quot;
Cut a length of about 7 cm (translator's note: 2.75 inches, US measure) of iron rod, 3/16 x 3/4 inches. I made a hole near one end and threaded it. Round the end around the threaded hole, and with the wall grinder, I beveled the edge.
as the OP requested help with english transliteration: &quot;I then sharpened the edge of the steel washer, making a chamfer, and supported it so it could tilt, allowing it to spin while being sharpened. This gave me a good, smooth, sharp edge.&quot;
You requested some help with english:<br><br>&quot;The first step is to get some washers to secure/affix/attach the piece with a screw to a wooden handle, so that it would turn/rotate.. &quot;
Done. Thanks, very much.
how do you sharpen it? do you burnish the edge like a bowl scraper?
After that I made it, I have not had the need to resharpen it, but when I should do, be like step 2. I do not know what a bowl scraper is.
English- por favor!
If you can help me to fix some English errors, I will thank you.
You can always turn the cutting edge for a new edge. I like the trick you learned from Popular Mechanics.
Yes, Phil. I think this tool can be used too to cut cardboard, setting the screw to allow the cutting edge rotate. Ball bearings steel is very hard, then very useful.
I did not have in mind to use it like a rolling cutter, but that when part of it becomes dull a new section could be brought forward to do the cutting and the tool would be sharp again.
Yes, that's what I said in step 6, Phil.

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