Introduction: 2:3 Scale VT100 Terminal Reproduction Facade Build
I'm planning to build the IMSAI 8080 Replica Kit and thought it would be cool to have an old school serial terminal to connect to it.
While this sounds awesome, practically they're big and heavy and hard to find and expensive to buy. After asking for help in the IMSAI google group I was lead to this amazing project: 2:3 Scale VT100 Terminal Reproduction.
This was pretty much perfect for my needs, but something occurred to me: the IMSAI kit is much shallower than the real thing (only about 4") and my plan is to display it on a shelf, so I thought it would be better to make the VT100 the same way.
Michael Gardi was kind enough to respond to me and let me know how to download the original 3d source files so I had a better starting point than the stl mesh files.
I'm creating this project in the hope that others will benefit from what I ended up with.
I also hate gluing things so I modified the parts to all connect together without needing to use glue, except the logo badge, which I just used some rubber cement.
And 2nd also, I'm making everything so that it can be printed on a 180x180x180mm 3d printer, since that's what my Prusa Mini+ can do.
3rd also, I'm planning to use the VT100 terminal emulator that Lars Brinkoff created.
Enjoy the build!!
NOTE: I'm building a limited number of these for people who don't have 3d printers. Contact me if you're interested.
Supplies
Step 1: Main Terminal Body
The main terminal body is made from four parts. The bottom two parts have very high supports, note the first one I printed using a grid pattern and it is much cleaner. The second one I forgot to change the pattern and it is very "wobbly". It still works, but it is not nearly as good as the grid (see pictures that show where that is set in prusa slicer).
You will also need to disable the skirt for some of the parts (see pictures that show where that is set in prusa slicer).
Once the supports are removed the two parts slide together. There is a long slot and it tends to not be 100% straight. I needed to use a file on this so that it would fit better, even so it required some force to get it together. I plan to try modifying this connection to make it more forgiving (This has been done, and it's much easier to connect the bottom two parts together now!)
Next insert the cable extensions for the usb power and the usb keyboard input.
The top two parts have slots on the bottom that you will need to remove the supports from. Once they're cleaned up the two top halfs fit together and then will fit onto the tabs on the bottom two parts. Once you slide the top onto the bottom it will slide slightly to the right, locking the top and bottom together.
For all of these prints I set my slicer (PrusaSlicer) to automatically generate supports for any features with an overhang with angles > 30 degrees (see pictures that show where that is set in prusa slicer)..
It will help if you spend some time cleaning up the grooves for the display frame, top and back covers so they'll slide easily.
Step 2: Display
Connect the two parts of the display frame together. The LCD will fit into the frame snugly and then you can use tape to hold it in place.
Install the display pcb into the holder and mount this to the back of the ldc display using double sided tape or whatever other method you desire. I used velcro so that I could remove it if needed. Attach the cable from the ldc to the pcb.
This frame then will slide into the grooves on the main terminal body.
You should be able to print both parts of the frame at one time if desired (see picture).
Step 3: Install Internal Components
Place the weights in the bottom of the terminal and then install the weight shelf on top of them. This just sits loosely on top of the weights to prevent any of the electronics from touching them.
Plug the pi to the display. use the splitter to run the incoming power from the usb extension cable to the display and to the raspberry pi power inputs.
Plug the usb extension cable for the keyboard into a pi usb port.
When printing this part on a 180 mm bed you'll need to angle it at 45 degrees to get it to fit (see picture), and disable the skirt.
Attachments
Step 4: Back and Top Covers
Next slide the back cover in it's groves, and then the top cover which will hold both the display frame and back cover in place. Note that the top cover has an angled notch that mates up with a slot in both top halfs of the terminal to help hold place. You'll need to be sure to clean out the slots at a downward angle 2350
You'll also have to angle this part at 45 degrees to get it to fit on a 180 mm bed. And you'll need to disable skirt as well.
Attachments
Step 5: Keyboard
You'll need to remove the supports from the cable channel and wire plug bottom and top.
Plug the USB C right angle adapter into the back of the keyboard.
Run the USB C end of the coiled usb cable through the hole on the right side of the keyboard holder.
Plug the coiled USB cable into the right angled adapter and carefully put the keyboard into the keyboard holder while making sure that the cable goes into the grove in the keyboard holder.
Once the keyboard is in place install the wire plug bottom and top into the hole on the left side of the keyboard holder. This will hold the cable in place and clean up the look of the hole.
Step 6: Logo Badges
The badges should be printed with a slicer that allows you to change colors. PrusaSlicer makes this pretty easy. Since this will vary based on your 3d printer and slicer I won't go into detail on this process.
Once they are printed there is an inset on the top right part of the main terminal body to help with correct placement. I used some rubber cement but other glues will work as well.
Step 7: All Done
At this point you should be ready to follow the instructions on the other projects in order to get the terminal emulator running and hopefully connecting up to your desired device! I haven't gotten this far since I don't have my IMSAI kit yet. Once you figure it out make an instructables project and share the link with me!
