3D Printed Crossflow Fan

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Introduction: 3D Printed Crossflow Fan

About: Trust me. I'am an Engineer.

I need (read like) to print things, small or big, from PLA or ABS, so I need a large printer, enclosed one, reliable and easy to use.

My printer is a corexy self-made one, enclosed and with my version of cross flow approach for cooling. I use a cross flow fan for cooling the hot end and the filament. Also the laminar air curtain keeps the heat inside the printer cabinet - I don't have top enclosure.

I ordered a fan on eBay but it takes too long to get there. So I did one. A 40 x 300 mm cross flow fan

Complete Bill of Material – 09.09.2017

  • a 12V 120 mm fan like this;
  • 2x M105ZZ bearing;
  • an 5mm diameter aluminum rod, 300 mm long;
  • M3 nuts and bolts;
  • 1x 0.3 ohms 3W resistor;
  • 1x 47 microF/16 V capacitor;
  • 1x complete set of printed parts.

Step 1: Destroy Your New Fan..., Have Fun

You need to free up the motor from the fan cage. With a plier you can cut of all the propellers and support from the motors. After that you will sand the motor to have a smooth diameter.

Step 2: Print Your Parts

Print the 2 propellers and 2 x propeller top from ABS with a 0.4 mm nozzle. Print slowly to have a good quality print. And no support for the propellers.

The rest of the parts I printed from black PLA at normal speed. Just be sure they are not distorted/warped.

Printer settings: 0.2 mm layer, 30% infill, 30 mm/s for propellers and 60 mm/s for the rest of the parts.

Step 3: Build the Fan

After I printed the propellers and the propellers top I glued to make the final propellers. So take the 5 mm rod and press to one propellers and one top propellers. Center the top propeller and glue to propeller with superglue. Repeat for second propeller.

Glue together case 1, case 2 and top case.

Now press the motor inside propeller 1. Press the motor support on the other end of the motor.

Press fit the bearings on case, one on middle and one on top. Now insert the aluminum rod into propeller 1 and put the propeller 2 on second case part. Insert the propeller 1 with aluminum rod into first case and into second propeller. Tight the motor support to case and after center all the parts you can glue the motor to motor support.

The cross flow fan is done.

Step 4: How to Use the Fan

I use this fan on my printer witch is powered by ramps 1.4. I connect the fan to D9 connector.

Optional to smooth the control of fan I use an RC filter. I setup the PWM control to 10% for preheating and 12-15% during the print. For bridging I use 50%.

Cool printing.

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    2 Comments

    0
    jubjub64
    jubjub64

    Question 4 days ago on Step 4

    I'm working on a slightly modified version this fan design for my hobby coreXY (I lengthened the design to work with a 400mm print area). I'm curious as to why the capacitor and resistor are necessary if the fan doesn't need it normally in, say, a computer case (note, my electronics experience is pretty low). Also, I have a 24v fan instead of a 12v - would this require a different capacitor & resistor compared to 12v fan? The fan I have can run at 12v but my printer supplies 24v. It runs at 3700RPM at 0.75A. Thanks, I am excited to finish up this project, I really appreciate you sharing this design and instructions.

    0
    fkirita
    fkirita

    Answer 3 days ago

    Thank you for your interest in this design. The capacitor and the resistor are necessary because to modify the flow of the fan you will use the PWM function of your board. With this schematic you can go much low in rpm then without. This schematic smooth the PWM pulse. If you want to power a 12v fan from a board with 24v supply you must restrict your PWM to 50%. This mean you will use in your slicer no more then 50% fan speed. Also the capacitor must be 35v or more and the resistor power 3w.