Introduction: Adding a 3.5mm Jack Port to a Ladybird Massager

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About: Used to install massive machines and carry out never before done projects in real life. Now I wander the Earth stopping passers by to tell them about console games I remember from 1994 until their polite smile…

I've added a 3.5mm switch port to a commonly available massaging aid without losing the ability to use without the switch. This means that the ladybird can be controlled by a child with complex needs to interact with the environment, sense the vibrations or even to have a supporter dip the ladybird feet in paint and use the ladybird to paint a picture.

This modification still allow the massager to be used without a switch as the soldered connection doesn't disable the original switch - this does require basic soldering skills. It's also the same as the vibrating frog massager that I've modified previously.

I've assumed that anyone checking my projects out may want to get more actively involved so I'll include basic options for tools and supplies plus a more advanced option. See how you feel.

Supplies

Vibrating Ladybird Massager available here

Good soldering iron starter kit - available here

or a more advanced soldering station with holder that I'm using here

Lead free solder (smaller packs are available) here

3.5mm mono jack socket available here

Drill - here

6mm drill bit - here

Signal wire - two lengths as you see fit (I used about 20cm for each here which seemed to fit in well) I've used white here but feel free to use whatever colour you prefer - here

Wire strippers (I use these as they take the work out of wire sizing) - here

Wire cutters - here

Philips head bladed screw driver - hardware shop of choice

Pencil - makers choice

AA batteries - this is a 20 pack which has balanced price and performance

These links are only suggestions for these supplies mind. I have included a few affiliate links for some supplies but only because they are cheap and effective supplies.

Step 1: Open Your Ladybird

For the ladybird I'm using I opened the packaging and removed the bag. The batteries for the ladybird are not included so I've included a link for a 20 pack in the supplies.

To open the ladybird look on the left side of the ladybird for a small recess. Push this up to remove the top of the ladybird . You can now see the two small philips head screws - unscrew these to remove the battery housing - careful as this is still attached to the motor and switch. At this point I lifted up the black plastic section of the ladybird and set this to one side.

The switch is now accessible but to allow proper access to the base of the ladybird there are five additional screws to unscrew. The ladybird base can now be separated from the motor & switch.

You can now see the push switch with two wires going to the motor. These are where we will be soldering in the jack switch to allow use of the ladybird massager without an external switch.

Note: the motor has an orientation with mounts and support padding.

Step 2: Prepare the Jack

For this I've soldered a length of signal wire to the normally open contacts of the 3.5mm jack socket. Normally open means that pressing the switch closes the connection to make it - that's what we want.

To do this I made small hooks at the end of the wire and used these to hole the wire in position on the 3.5mm jack socket while I soldered the joints. I then bent the socket contacts as shown as I decided that I was going to position the wire around the edge of the ladybird base.

Step 3: Drill the Jack Hole

Mark a hole position for the 3.5mm jack socket using a pencil. The position needs to be clear of the switch mechanism when the middle section is added so take a little time to get this correct.

Using the drill and the 6mm drill bit, make the hole for the jack. I propped the underside of the ladybird on a piece of wood to take pressure off the legs while drilling and give the drill something to press into. I also added a chamfer to the inside of the hole with a countersink bit but a deburr tool or a gentle scrape to remove the inner burr.

I added the wired up 3.5mm jack socket to the base of the ladybird at this point as it seemed the right thing to do. It also allowed me to check the fit of the assembly.

Step 4: Solder Time

The fun bit.

Take care not to heat the switch contacts too much as this could damage the internals of the switch.

I desoldered the motor from the switch so I didn't catch any of the motor wires accidentally with a hot soldering

iron bit.

Then I cleaned the switch contacts of solder before creating a small hook at the end of the wires from the 3.5mm

jack. I placed these over the switch contact and soldered them in place with fresh solder. Then the motor wires

were soldered back to their switch contacts.

You should now have the middle section looking like the last photo.

Step 5: Reassembly Is the Reverse of Disassembly

Carefully place the middle back on to the ladybird base, taking care to align the motor correctly with the mounting

points as before. This was a little fiddly but the additional wire from the jack was handy and allowed me to loop it around the screw points to ensure it didn't wrap around the motor. Ensure the middle is flat on the base with no wires pinched with the screw holes lined up before adding the five screws.

Align the switch with the middle and click into place, then add the black front cover from the top. Now add the top of the ladybird and secure with the two screws.

Add 2x AA batteries to test using the normal switch. If it works - great, if not - check the battery polarity then

review those solder connections.

Then use a 3.5mm jack switch (see my other instructables for how to build one of these if you don't have one to

hand) - again - if it works, celebrate with a victory lap before adding the top to the ladybird.

If it doesn't work now - definitely check those solder connections.