Introduction: Assassin's Claws - Edward's Scissor-Hands
More by the author:
About: i'm 35. With 23, i started with a stage in taylorship, did sum time-work, changed to saddleryuntil now, worked in a middle-age-onlineshop. Three years ago, i started mailing; a major part of my friends are jug…
Advise: This is not meant to be a weapon or used as one, this is only a style-project, sharp blades are not intended (and there won't be a howto for those) !!
Well, this is my first Howto and it's bout sumthin i always wanted to do and yet did in a more simple way. So, this is my scissor-hands v2.0, v1.0 will be marked, too. v1.0 uses fixed blades, v2.0 uses maneuverable blades.
As result of my character, i might be a lil bit confusing in this instructable, but i'm tryin to put in every information that is needed for each step, so first READ THE WHOLE STEP before realizin the instruction or you might be missin important information.
I'm German, not a native american, so if you find typing and grammar faults you can either keep em or tell me about.
I worked with several technics and skills i got from over the time, so be advised that it won't be easy, if you are not experienced with the tools, especially with a sewing machine. These sewings are lowest level as there are only straight step-lines to be made, but one has to know how to calibrate the machine, if you want the product to be stable, so in any case use sum testing material first, before you start over. And: you should be able to sew a straight step-line, say, no bows, cos we're workin quite dense here.
Well, this is my first Howto and it's bout sumthin i always wanted to do and yet did in a more simple way. So, this is my scissor-hands v2.0, v1.0 will be marked, too. v1.0 uses fixed blades, v2.0 uses maneuverable blades.
As result of my character, i might be a lil bit confusing in this instructable, but i'm tryin to put in every information that is needed for each step, so first READ THE WHOLE STEP before realizin the instruction or you might be missin important information.
I'm German, not a native american, so if you find typing and grammar faults you can either keep em or tell me about.
I worked with several technics and skills i got from over the time, so be advised that it won't be easy, if you are not experienced with the tools, especially with a sewing machine. These sewings are lowest level as there are only straight step-lines to be made, but one has to know how to calibrate the machine, if you want the product to be stable, so in any case use sum testing material first, before you start over. And: you should be able to sew a straight step-line, say, no bows, cos we're workin quite dense here.
Step 1: Material & Tools
What you need/what i used:
(mark: this was my way doin it, if you got better ideas/modifications, cheers!)
=> Material:
- black leather
- band steel (i bought sum from ebay, note: "normal" coil: 100m/~40€; V2A stainless coil 20m/~50€ - i used the normal one and lubricated it with machine oil; 0,5mm thickness is great)
- field rivets (5mm and 4mm)
- gromets 4mm inner diameter (i prefer the brass ones)
- sum machine oil, if you don't use stainless steel
- 1,5-2m leather band for lacing
- 5 pullsprings in different lengths
- 5 rings/eyelets/snaprings to sumhow attach the springs to the metal
- optional: sum piece of metal plate 0,5-1mm thickness
=> Tools:
- drill machine
- drills: 5mm, 4mm, (both for rivets/gromets), sum drills that are bigger than these sizes to get rid of the ridges)
- drill rig (allows you precise working and you wouldn't wanna work without)
- rough emery paper (i used 40s)
- small piece of wood (as underlay and for wrapping the emery paper aroung)
- measuring tape
- ruler
- set square
- hole punch
- pliers for field rivets
- pliers for gromets
- "normal" pliers (i use two sets, 2x2, of needle-nosed pliers and small universal pliers that i also commonly use for chainmaille technics)
- Cutter (to cut the leather)
- chalk (taylor supply; sumthin to draw on the leather)
- metal shears (i'm usin a common "figure scissors" (dunno the rite word) for the bandsteel, and a really heavy one for the metal plate as sawin would have taken too much time and energy)
- mallet
- punch mark
- sewing machine and leather needles: reverse triangular; those needles are sharpened and cut holes in the leather while sewing; they come in heavier sizes than normal needles (90 is normal standard), i used a "100"-needle. Concernin the machine: if you have an old (mechanic) one, it's great, but don't start usin the modern digital, computer-supplied crap; they'll rather fuck up, when you try sewin leather with it.
(mark: this was my way doin it, if you got better ideas/modifications, cheers!)
=> Material:
- black leather
- band steel (i bought sum from ebay, note: "normal" coil: 100m/~40€; V2A stainless coil 20m/~50€ - i used the normal one and lubricated it with machine oil; 0,5mm thickness is great)
- field rivets (5mm and 4mm)
- gromets 4mm inner diameter (i prefer the brass ones)
- sum machine oil, if you don't use stainless steel
- 1,5-2m leather band for lacing
- 5 pullsprings in different lengths
- 5 rings/eyelets/snaprings to sumhow attach the springs to the metal
- optional: sum piece of metal plate 0,5-1mm thickness
=> Tools:
- drill machine
- drills: 5mm, 4mm, (both for rivets/gromets), sum drills that are bigger than these sizes to get rid of the ridges)
- drill rig (allows you precise working and you wouldn't wanna work without)
- rough emery paper (i used 40s)
- small piece of wood (as underlay and for wrapping the emery paper aroung)
- measuring tape
- ruler
- set square
- hole punch
- pliers for field rivets
- pliers for gromets
- "normal" pliers (i use two sets, 2x2, of needle-nosed pliers and small universal pliers that i also commonly use for chainmaille technics)
- Cutter (to cut the leather)
- chalk (taylor supply; sumthin to draw on the leather)
- metal shears (i'm usin a common "figure scissors" (dunno the rite word) for the bandsteel, and a really heavy one for the metal plate as sawin would have taken too much time and energy)
- mallet
- punch mark
- sewing machine and leather needles: reverse triangular; those needles are sharpened and cut holes in the leather while sewing; they come in heavier sizes than normal needles (90 is normal standard), i used a "100"-needle. Concernin the machine: if you have an old (mechanic) one, it's great, but don't start usin the modern digital, computer-supplied crap; they'll rather fuck up, when you try sewin leather with it.
Step 2: Measurements / Workin the Leather
- Measure the circumferences of the knuckles of your hand, just wrap the measuring tape around them, be sure to ignore the thumb. Then, from that line, measure bout 15cm to the forearm and there measure again the circumference. Note all Lengths (add sum centimeters, but note how much you added)
- Measure the circumferences of the pit of your fingers and the circumferences of the second knuckle and then the length between pit and knuckle (total length pit-knuckle-knuckle).
Note: I noticed that my tunnels got too small, probably becos of the metal piece at the end of my measuring tape. That means that i had to add 1,5cm total to each width, except the length of the pipes. The length can be decreased by 0,5cm to let the fingertips stick out of the tunnels , but only after sewing them together and trying them on.
- Now you have to assign the measurements on the leather:
for the base-part you only have to make a trapeze, and mark the excess width on the right and left. On top side (bigger side) mark the breadth of the band steel (mine is bout 1,6cm). Now you have to make a hole for you thumb(s). note that you mustn't exceed this line as you have to supply sum metal there. I think the easiest way is to wrap the leather round the hand, grabbin the excess width with the fingers and then mark, where the hole for the thumbs gonna be. Make sure to make a slightly oval hole.
- For the fingers, make sum more small trapezes to sew them to tunnels later on. As mentioned above, maybe cut the top bout 0,5mm if you want the fingertips stick outta the tunnels.
- Measure the circumferences of the pit of your fingers and the circumferences of the second knuckle and then the length between pit and knuckle (total length pit-knuckle-knuckle).
Note: I noticed that my tunnels got too small, probably becos of the metal piece at the end of my measuring tape. That means that i had to add 1,5cm total to each width, except the length of the pipes. The length can be decreased by 0,5cm to let the fingertips stick out of the tunnels , but only after sewing them together and trying them on.
- Now you have to assign the measurements on the leather:
for the base-part you only have to make a trapeze, and mark the excess width on the right and left. On top side (bigger side) mark the breadth of the band steel (mine is bout 1,6cm). Now you have to make a hole for you thumb(s). note that you mustn't exceed this line as you have to supply sum metal there. I think the easiest way is to wrap the leather round the hand, grabbin the excess width with the fingers and then mark, where the hole for the thumbs gonna be. Make sure to make a slightly oval hole.
- For the fingers, make sum more small trapezes to sew them to tunnels later on. As mentioned above, maybe cut the top bout 0,5mm if you want the fingertips stick outta the tunnels.
Step 3: Adding the First Metal Stripes
-Wrap the base trapeze round your hand again - make sure, you put the thumb through the hole -, grab other side with the fingers so that the leather fits tight round your hand. Mark the three points between the knuckles of pointing finger/stink finger/ring finger/small finger (You need sum rivets there holding sum construction part added to the top stell stripe). Cut in (three) holes with the hole-punch (4-5mm; leather is flexible...)
- Now you have to attach the first two lines of steel band on top and bottom of the base trapeze. Snip the ends sloped so that they're congruent to the sloped left/right sides of the trapeze.
- To attach them to the trapeze, you need to make sum holes and put in rivets.
=> Making the holes is always the same: Mark with a pen, then grab the mallet and the punch mark, be sure that you get to sum place with unfeathered underlay, center the punch mark on the pen-mark and hit it with the mallet. Unfeathered underlay is important as feathered underlay would effect that you won't have a ding on the metal. The ding is important to center the drill that you use. If you don't have a ding, the drill will shift on the metal caused by its rotation and it's kinda hard to aim. After havin punched, put it under the drill rig. Be sure to use the right drill, that the drill machine is running on slow motion and that it rotates to the right direction. Put the piece of wood (underlay) on the drill rig's table (if you don't use that piece of would you will have a buckling in the metal after makin the hole.
After makin the hole use a bigger drill to slightly remove the hole's ridges on both sides.
Note: use the left hand for holding the material, otherwise, if the drill gets stuck in the metal it will rotate the metal and your body wouldn't want to be in its way before the metal hits the drill rig.
Don't lower the drill machine with force, give it its time to run through the metal.
=> When you put in the field rivets, put them in from the inner side of the base. The back will shrink, while tearing out the pin and will leave a button, while the "front" of the rivet stays flat (you won't like buttons rubbing on your skin).
- So, for this first stripe we need 5mm-holes only. First do sum in the four endings, distance to end is same as to top/bottom side/=half band-width. These holes are for the lacing eyelets. Next make four holes nearby for rivets. These rivets are used to stabilize the eyelets: When you put on the completed scissors hands by pulling, it often happens that the eyelets get ripped and you don't want to fix this all of the time.
Introduce the eyelets of the top stripe. Now mark the holes on the metal through the holes of the leather. Tear the leather back a lil bit while making holes. Put in the two eyelet-stabilzer rivets of this stripe.
Now use the (normal) pliers and bend the (top) stripe so that you can put it round your hand:
For the bottom stripe add 2 holes in the middle, middle means they should be on the upper side of your arm. You can check that by layin the metal stripe on the leather while the top stripe is bound around your hand. Also make the equivalent holes in the leather beneath.
- Now you have to attach the first two lines of steel band on top and bottom of the base trapeze. Snip the ends sloped so that they're congruent to the sloped left/right sides of the trapeze.
- To attach them to the trapeze, you need to make sum holes and put in rivets.
=> Making the holes is always the same: Mark with a pen, then grab the mallet and the punch mark, be sure that you get to sum place with unfeathered underlay, center the punch mark on the pen-mark and hit it with the mallet. Unfeathered underlay is important as feathered underlay would effect that you won't have a ding on the metal. The ding is important to center the drill that you use. If you don't have a ding, the drill will shift on the metal caused by its rotation and it's kinda hard to aim. After havin punched, put it under the drill rig. Be sure to use the right drill, that the drill machine is running on slow motion and that it rotates to the right direction. Put the piece of wood (underlay) on the drill rig's table (if you don't use that piece of would you will have a buckling in the metal after makin the hole.
After makin the hole use a bigger drill to slightly remove the hole's ridges on both sides.
Note: use the left hand for holding the material, otherwise, if the drill gets stuck in the metal it will rotate the metal and your body wouldn't want to be in its way before the metal hits the drill rig.
Don't lower the drill machine with force, give it its time to run through the metal.
=> When you put in the field rivets, put them in from the inner side of the base. The back will shrink, while tearing out the pin and will leave a button, while the "front" of the rivet stays flat (you won't like buttons rubbing on your skin).
- So, for this first stripe we need 5mm-holes only. First do sum in the four endings, distance to end is same as to top/bottom side/=half band-width. These holes are for the lacing eyelets. Next make four holes nearby for rivets. These rivets are used to stabilize the eyelets: When you put on the completed scissors hands by pulling, it often happens that the eyelets get ripped and you don't want to fix this all of the time.
Introduce the eyelets of the top stripe. Now mark the holes on the metal through the holes of the leather. Tear the leather back a lil bit while making holes. Put in the two eyelet-stabilzer rivets of this stripe.
Now use the (normal) pliers and bend the (top) stripe so that you can put it round your hand:
For the bottom stripe add 2 holes in the middle, middle means they should be on the upper side of your arm. You can check that by layin the metal stripe on the leather while the top stripe is bound around your hand. Also make the equivalent holes in the leather beneath.
Step 4: Splittin Into V1.0 or V2.0 / Howto Stabilize the Base
So...
Now it depends on what kinda scissor hands you wanna make.
For v1.0 i now added two holders at the top and one holder at the bottom. I connected four double-layers of 50cm band steel as blades united at the back. This way they spread a little bit.
For v2.0:
What you have to do now is to stabilize the hole base, by either usin a metal plate or sum more stripes. I used a plate cos it is more massive than additional stripes. I cut the metal off a 2x1m plate, 1mm thickness usin really heavy metal shears made for longer cuts). My plates are 7cm at the top, 4cm at the bottom and 15cm length:
Basically, all you have to do is to attach the plate that way that it's held by three rivets at the top and two rivets at the bottom. That means for the plate we need two holes at the bottom and three holes at the top that fit the stripes. At the top, first, only add the center rivet, at the bottom add both rivets.
Additionally you will need a small hole in the further in the back to hold the spring that is connected with the thumb's blade; the spring should be attached that way that it points quite exactly in the same direction as the thumb does. That means you need a quite longer spring than for the other fingers and note that the direction the spring points is als the direction it will pull the blade. So if you don't attach it adequate it will not pull back the claw, but to one side (propably to the inner side which might injure the rest of your hand, even if the blade is not sharpened).
Now it depends on what kinda scissor hands you wanna make.
For v1.0 i now added two holders at the top and one holder at the bottom. I connected four double-layers of 50cm band steel as blades united at the back. This way they spread a little bit.
For v2.0:
What you have to do now is to stabilize the hole base, by either usin a metal plate or sum more stripes. I used a plate cos it is more massive than additional stripes. I cut the metal off a 2x1m plate, 1mm thickness usin really heavy metal shears made for longer cuts). My plates are 7cm at the top, 4cm at the bottom and 15cm length:
Basically, all you have to do is to attach the plate that way that it's held by three rivets at the top and two rivets at the bottom. That means for the plate we need two holes at the bottom and three holes at the top that fit the stripes. At the top, first, only add the center rivet, at the bottom add both rivets.
Additionally you will need a small hole in the further in the back to hold the spring that is connected with the thumb's blade; the spring should be attached that way that it points quite exactly in the same direction as the thumb does. That means you need a quite longer spring than for the other fingers and note that the direction the spring points is als the direction it will pull the blade. So if you don't attach it adequate it will not pull back the claw, but to one side (propably to the inner side which might injure the rest of your hand, even if the blade is not sharpened).
Step 5: Blade-Holders
Holders:
- Cut sum more steel bands: 2x for each hand: Mark "2,5cm - 2cm - 2,5cm", cut the ends round and use emery paper to make the surroundings a little bit smoother.
- In the middle we need a center hole. at the ends make sum smaller holes near the brink.
- Use the pliers to form them to a "U".
- At the bottom put two more rivets through the leather, stripe, metal plate plus one of the holders (center hole).
How they're finally attached on the base can be seen in the "main" image of this instructable.
CAREFUL !!
These parts are very small and they got a very short angle. I myself didnt use any gloves for the project as gloves kept me from workin precisely and i cut myself when one of these parts got stuck in the drill. So i recommend to use pliers here to hold the pieces while you drill them.
- Cut sum more steel bands: 2x for each hand: Mark "2,5cm - 2cm - 2,5cm", cut the ends round and use emery paper to make the surroundings a little bit smoother.
- In the middle we need a center hole. at the ends make sum smaller holes near the brink.
- Use the pliers to form them to a "U".
- At the bottom put two more rivets through the leather, stripe, metal plate plus one of the holders (center hole).
How they're finally attached on the base can be seen in the "main" image of this instructable.
CAREFUL !!
These parts are very small and they got a very short angle. I myself didnt use any gloves for the project as gloves kept me from workin precisely and i cut myself when one of these parts got stuck in the drill. So i recommend to use pliers here to hold the pieces while you drill them.
Step 6: Finger-Tunnels
The tunnels for the fingers:
- In the middle of the pit-part and the rear-part make sum holes and add sum steel stripes using rivets (actually we don't care bout its lengths as long as they're 15cm at minimum long) Aim is make sum holders for the blades.
Note: now it should be quite more agreeable to use smaller rivets, say, in that case you also need smaller drills; i used 4cm rivets.
Now this sounds a lil bit easier than it will be:
you have to bend back the stripes a little bit, so that you get the leather under the sewing machine. Now make a STRAIGHT line and cut back almost everything of allowances (2-3mm should do it.
Now put on the tunnels and bend the stripes round your fingers, so that they stick up at the upper side. The stickin part should be bout 2,5cm, so cut the rest. Make sum holes in the combined endings.
- In the middle of the pit-part and the rear-part make sum holes and add sum steel stripes using rivets (actually we don't care bout its lengths as long as they're 15cm at minimum long) Aim is make sum holders for the blades.
Note: now it should be quite more agreeable to use smaller rivets, say, in that case you also need smaller drills; i used 4cm rivets.
Now this sounds a lil bit easier than it will be:
you have to bend back the stripes a little bit, so that you get the leather under the sewing machine. Now make a STRAIGHT line and cut back almost everything of allowances (2-3mm should do it.
Now put on the tunnels and bend the stripes round your fingers, so that they stick up at the upper side. The stickin part should be bout 2,5cm, so cut the rest. Make sum holes in the combined endings.
