AuraCube 8x8x8 Complete Assembly Guide

40,352

107

36

Introduction: AuraCube 8x8x8 Complete Assembly Guide

About: I made many stuff for sell

AuraCube 8x8x8 RGB Led Cube DIY Kit

Available at 8x8x8item.com and rgbledcube.com, ebay.com ebay.co.uk ebau.au

Facebook Page

https://www.facebook.com/AuraCube/

***Do not download this instruction, just click next step is ok.***

Step 1: Specific

Function:

Control with remote

Draw Animation file from software and save to Micro SD card

Play with audio input spectrum display

Night Light mode

Diemension: ~20*20*25mm

Weight: ~2.5KG

Acrylic case optional included

Remote battery(CR2025) removed of Air Mail issue

Step 2: Component

600 Common anode RGB leds

1 big PCB board

1 small controller board

1 remote (cr2025 battery may not included due to air mail safety)

8 copper leg

330 copper wire

1 ST link V2 USB programmer

1 5V5A power supply

1 US power cable for power supply

1 Acrylic Case not assembled

1 FFC cable (10 pin 1mm 10CM)

4 3D printed soldering holder

1 3D printed stand for small controller board

Step 3: Soldering the Led Panel / Vertical Layer

We need to bend and solder the led first, than test the led when it layer up.

Make sure your iron does not heat over 350 Celsius or 662 Fahrenheit


It will help more understand if you take a look on the 3D model plan of AuraCube 888 on Step 4

The R G B pin position on the cube will not change for plan a b and c, but should different on the solder holder. The spacing is 25mm up down left right back forward.

Soldering and Testing of AuraCube8x8x8

1.According to the marking of "R G B x" on the PCB, bend the 3 led leg in correct direction, except the anode leg.

2.Insert the led to the holder and solder with 3 copper wire, this will become a "led strip"

3.Align the led strip with another led holder, it should looks like a 8x8 led panel with all pins face in correct direction according to the PCB marking. The picture above show the rgb pin position is for Auracube888a.dwg model, if you plan for Auracube888b or c model it sholud be different.

4.Solder the anode leg of every led with a copper wire in row/horizontal direction, there will have 8 led panel finally

Step 4: 3D Model File and Set Ip of the Anode Wire

All RGB pin just connect to the PCB vertically in column, do not connect with any anode pin connection.

***When mounting 1st led panel to main board the common anode leads start from high to low layer, through hole 1 to 8. Or you can see the anode through hole close to the DC power jack is the top layer.

Anode pin wiring guide

Auracube888b.dwg(Recommended) Has more wire but nearly no noise, easy to test the led panel one by one.

http://a360.co/2gUJx1C (view it online)

(The free software to open 123dx document is 123D Design by Autodesk)

The spacing is 25mm up down left right back forward.

Step 5: Testing the Vertical Led Layer/panel

-It's very important to do this test before soldering onto the PCB-

There are many multimeter can "Test for a Short Circuit", Turn the multimeter settings knob to "continuity." The continuity setting is indicated by a small microphone symbol. It's has about 30ma current allow to light up one led, for led short circuited (inside the led bulb) it will not light up and give the "bee" sound.

If you want to test the leds after soldering on the PCB, the R G B wire on the bottom that soldered onto PCB should be de-solder first, and the multimeter will connect correctly to test the leds.

Step 6: Soldering Led Panel / Vertical Layer Onto the PCB

It will help understanding if you take a look on the 3D models of AuraCube 888 on Step 4. RGB pin are connected to PCB vertically, but anode pin connected in column and a wire connect each column to the PCB.

As the anode path on the PCB are shorted in 8 path, connect to four 4953 ICs , so they also can connect each together on top the cube wire, and skip some of the anode hole on the PCB.

After testing the led panel with multimeter, now you can insert the led panel onto the PCB through hole, note the R G B pin direction. We can send different rgb firmware if you make mistake.

Make sure all led's anode pin on horizontal each layer are connected to the anode wire, so they have power input from the IC 4953. 4pcs of the 4953 give power to 8 anode path, see picture above.

(Only if you have built the old version of rgb led cube before, the 8 anode are wire at the back, and now we solder 8 anode on the side, this can be seen clearly on the 3D model)

Step 7: Power on and the Remote Controller

Connect the small controller board with a FFC cable, you may slightly bend the cable connector, it will works fine with the acrylic case on.

Use a 5V5A DC power in put, it cube will start playing animation in the firmware

Remote Controller Button

0 ------------ Animation from the micro SD card

1 ------------ Music spectrum mode

2 ------------ Animation from the firmware

3 ------------ Night Light Mode

4-9 --------- adjust color of the Night Light Mode

C------------ Snake game

>> Faster

<< Slower

-------------------------

This 3 button only work for firmware animation

<< Last animation

>> Next animation

> Play/Stop

Step 8: Software - AuraCube888.exe

No driver needed for the animation software, tested in Win10 Win7, work only on windows

Download on the sharing folder https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w2uIW46VgQbnNU...

Some customer shared their file on Facebook page, you may do so, we will upload them to the sharing folder soon.

-to open the software, you need to load the keycode generator, copy the key code and send to the seller, and they will send you the keyConfig(youname + PC ID Code).key file, rename it to keyConfig.key and save in the software folder, so the software will not locked-

-left click to fill color, right click to erase color, left click + Ctrl pick/copy color

-the software window fit 1080P desktop resolution, too low will not able to scroll or resize the software

-The Win10 will alert you not to use this software, but you can select ignore and continue using in Win10.

-The keyConfig.key is the registration key for one PC only, can use in multi windows except Mac OS.

-You can get your registration key with the Keycode generator, then send it to the seller and wait for the key.

-File auto save on software folder path, you need copy to micro SD card than.

-Animation file in micro SD card Must save in a folder named "rgbcube888"

-The micro SD card must be FAT format, not FAT32

-Can use any characters and some symbols for file name, but no Chinese characters.

Step 9: Transform Old Cube Animation Document

This step is only for customer has some file from the old rgb led cube in early 2016.

There is a hidden feature in the software, press ALT+T It will open and let you select all files in 5 frame and old cube format, then auto converted it to 100 frame new cube format, and save in a "converted" folder

Step 10: Firmware Upload / Update

This will need the

ST-Link USB programmer

Ribbon cable

DC power input or mini USB cable for power input only

And all the files firmwares download here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w2uIW46VgQbnNUNV9EeFc5TDg

1.Download the software STM32 ST-LINK (it has driver for the USB programmer)

http://www.st.com/en/embedded-software/stsw-link004.html

2.The driver will installed after the installing the software

3.Power on the led cube (or connect the small controller board to 5V min usb port for power), and connect each CLK, DIO and GND pin on the PCB together with the usb programmer, and plug in to the PC. You can't use the 3.3V and 12V pin on the small controller board for power.

4. Press File>Open>firmware.hex, Target>Connect, Target>Program and Verify, it should be done in second. 5. Press Disconnect to remove the small controller board

Step 11: The Acrylic Case and Holder Base for the Small Controller Board

You need to insert the small controller board into the 3D printed holder, and also insert the USB programmer (ST LINK V2), you won't able to remove them when the 3D printed holder is stick on the acrylic case's base. We use double adhesive tape, carefully stick at the back, just a small pieces is enough, more may break the board when removing.

The FFC cable connector (blue color) should face to top on two board. The blue connector head should face to top, and slide out the socket first, not pull up.

For the acrylic case you can follow this video for reference, the acrylic cement will melt the acrylic be careful not to add too much. Using Electrical Tape to hold the edge together, just 2 piece one Inch tape for each side, the acrylic cement may melt along the tape and acrylic, so no need to paste the full length.

For customer received a new small controller board on last two photo, they are the same board as the old one but easy to connect to the big PCB board and has a microphone, firmware are same to the old small controller board.

Step 12: Schematic and Firmware Code

Step 13: Customer's Work

Step 14: Q&A

The part of the program I cannot read is as follows Insert File places a menu on the left with the name of the file and a number of pages called Totem When I right mouse click on one of the Pages (Totem) a menu appears I believe the menu works as follows Move Up Move Down Copy Delete

1) Can you tell me what the last menu item does? (rename)

2) Also when I click convert there is

a) A check box (select all)

b) A Button on the bottom left (choose file)

c) A button on the bottom right (start convert)

4) Also included is a Ribbon cable with 20 wires and 40 pins. Please can you advise where these should be connected and their use. (Is it for connecting two cubes together)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

4 People Made This Project!

Recommendations

  • Back to School: Student Design Challenge

    Back to School: Student Design Challenge
  • Halloween Contest

    Halloween Contest
  • Micro:bit Contest

    Micro:bit Contest

36 Comments

0
ValentinT20
ValentinT20

3 months ago

I have a new version board (from eBay) and I wonder if the posted firmware is compatible with it.
Also, the new controller board is different. It has an un-populated spot for an ESP-12.
If anyone has the schematic and any info about it and the software to control the cube over WIFI it would be a great addition.

So far I've found some info on the link below:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FSOFKWk_pF...
I've ordered the missing smd components: voltage regulator, 10k resistor, 22uF and 100nF capacitors and planning to get an esp8266 to match my board.
Can anyone confirm if the listed WIFI firmware is going to work on my board?
I am not intending to brick my controller.

Can anyone confirm that the listed firmware from Step 12 is compatible with my board.
The MCU on my board is STM32F401CCU6.
What compiler should I use? Is the ST development tool STM32CubeIDE the right tool?
IMG_0624.jpgIMG_0623.jpg
0
pingufreak83
pingufreak83

5 months ago

Good morning together,

I would like to ask for help regarding the 8x8x8 PCB version 2.1.

If I light the LEDs in the row 1-7, also the same LEDs are lighted in row 8. If I measure all the anode pins to each other anode pin, I can see a difference about +0,7V between row 8 and rows 1-7. This means, that between rows 1-7 itself, they have the same voltage, but if I test row 8 between 1-7, I've a difference of +0.7V.

The behaviour is like this:
If I light only LEDs in row 8, no other of the rows 1-7 is lighted. But if I light any of the rows 1-7, it's also affecting row 8.So no other row will be lighted if I just use row 8.

In short:
If I light row 8 alone, only row 8 is lighted.
If I light any of the rows 1-7, it will also light row 8.

Is it probably a fault in the shift register and makes it sense to replace the chip? (Probably chip U2)

If someone can help me to find this out, I would be very very happy.

Thank you!

Kr

pingufreak

0
pingufreak83
pingufreak83

Reply 5 months ago

Here are some pictures. If I make a diode test and measure the voltage, between row 8 and each row 1-7 it is 0,44V. Between rows 1-7 to each row 1-7 it's 1,5V.

On the picture "rot reihe 1 - gruen reine 2 - blau reihe 8" it is like follows:

In my the animation, only 3 LED's are switched on:
- 1st row 1st LED red
- 2nd row 2nd LED blue
- 8rd row 3rd LED in green

But as you see in the picture, also these two LED's are on:
- 8rd row 1st LED in red
- 8rd row 2nd LED in blue

I guess the fault is not because of the Chipone ICN2028BP, because each chips is connected to multiple rows.

It seems U13, U14, U15, U16 in the schematic have been replaced with one IC on version 2.1. Unfortunately I can't identify this chip, but it's connected with the 8 anode pins. Is it possible, that this chip is damaged?

What else could cause the problem, and is there someone who has also the board 2.1? Maybe it's possible to compare the values.

Thank you!

Kr

pingu

diodentest reihe 1 - 2.jpgdiodentest reihe 1 - 3.jpgdiodentest reihe 1 - 4.jpgdiodentest reihe 1 - 5.jpgdiodentest reihe 1 - 6.jpgdiodentest reihe 1 - 7.jpgdiodentest reihe 1 - 8.jpgrot reihe 1 - gruen reine 2 - blau reihe 8.jpg
0
pingufreak83
pingufreak83

Reply 5 months ago

Today I've soldered the 5ft column. And since then, the bottom row is almost dark. The top row has still the previous issue. How can I fix this?

0
pingufreak83
pingufreak83

Reply 5 months ago

Or are all LED's first work if all 8 columns are soldered?

0
pingufreak83
pingufreak83

Reply 5 months ago

I soldered everything, same problem. I measured and the PCB is bad. This is really not ok for 150 $

0
djkluesner
djkluesner

Question 6 months ago

Hi everyone,
I am confused about the anode wireing, when you square all eight columns, do you
run a wire on the back side to all the anodes ? at all eight levels ? I could only tell
that a wire was run on both sides on the top, to square it, but cant really tell if all the anodes have to be connected column to column, at each floor.

0
jayson2019
jayson2019

Answer 6 months ago

Hi djkluesner,
did you see the DWG? If you can't open or view it, see this image. It shows the most left lower LED on row labeled 'PIN1'. Mind the flat side of the LEDs, indicating cathode for red. All anodes of all LEDs are pointing downwards (not bent) and all anodes of that row of that plane are connected.
Finish one vertical plane 8x8 on row 'PIN1' or 'PIN8' along the lines on the PCB, carefully mount it straight and see if it works. If any LED is not in line, you can still correct that.
The 8 vertical planes are not connected to each other!

HTH.

LEDs.png
0
jayson2019
jayson2019

7 months ago

Dear WongH!
Great project, really nice PCBs. Not completely finished yet, I have to adjust some LEDs to the same level.

One issue:
I can't switch to the microphone with button <) (back or return) any more. Just baselines are showing orange steady wit ALL firmwares I could find on your Google-drive. Unfortunately I did not save the original. It was working with the original firmware a few times, microphone was OK and working.
Input with 3.5mm jack is OK, animation is showing.

My set was shipped in summer 2019.

What could be the problem?

Best regards!
J.

0
thilo.zawarty
thilo.zawarty

Question 7 months ago on Step 14

Hi... I just completed the first 8x8 element of my cube. I tryied the "night light mode" and set highest brightness... bus i think it is not bright enough. Is this the maximum brightness of the cube? is there a way to increase the brightness of the LED's? I would be happy about any answer... Thilo

IMG_20210124_220803.jpg
0
dswersky
dswersky

Answer 7 months ago

After hitting 3 on the remote, you can hit 4 (or any higher number) repeatedly and the cube will get brighter in the color associated with that number.

With the finished cube, all the LEDs at full brightness is quite bright...

0
dswersky
dswersky

Question 7 months ago

I just completed this cube, lots of fun! A few comments, and a question:

The cube shipped with a polarized power adapter, but a non-polarized power cable. I had to order a polarized cable from Amazon. Also, there were several of the metal standoffs missing- I had to order a kit, also from Amazon.

I'd like to program the small board with some modified firmware, but it appears that there is no USB receptacle on the board where it should be. Is there a way to load my own firmware?

Thanks!

20210124_213859.jpgrgbcube_power.jpg
0
danny59
danny59

Question 1 year ago on Step 3

Hello Wong. I purchased my kit from Nobsound, by Douk Audio. When it arrived they gave me this link for the instructions. Unfortunately it didn't state whether it was an A, B or c version, it just said follow these instructions. The circuit board looks to be the exact same layout as the one you assembled in your demo. Do you have any idea what directions their cube was meant to follow? I've built several cubes in my day, so I am quite familiar bending and soldering LED's. If you don't know just let me knnow and I'll try and get in touch with Douk audio. Thank you very much, Danny.

0
donaldwseale58
donaldwseale58

Question 2 years ago on Step 8

how to find registration key and where to enter it ? my cube is completed and working well. would like program for making my own annimations.

0
phutney
phutney

Answer 1 year ago

Download on the sharing folder https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w2uIW46VgQbnNU...
Some customer shared their file on Facebook page, you may do so, we will upload them to the sharing folder soon.
-to
open the software, you need to load the keycode generator, copy the key
code and send to the seller, and they will send you the
keyConfig(youname + PC ID Code).key file, rename it to keyConfig.key and
save in the software folder, so the software will not locked-

-left click to fill color, right click to erase color, left click + Ctrl pick/copy color
-the software window fit 1080P desktop resolution, too low will not able to scroll or resize the software
-The Win10 will alert you not to use this software, but you can select ignore and continue using in Win10.
-The keyConfig.key is the registration key for one PC only, can use in multi windows except Mac OS.
-You can get your registration key with the Keycode generator, then send it to the seller and wait for the key.
-File auto save on software folder path, you need copy to micro SD card than.
-Animation file in micro SD card Must save in a folder named "rgbcube888"
-The micro SD card must be FAT format, not FAT32
-Can use any characters and some symbols for file name, but no Chinese characters.

0
ian_m
ian_m

4 years ago

Below are some pictures I took whilst assembling my cube.

1. Bend the LED leads as in the picture, the flat on the LED body to your right.

2. Test the RED LED using a multimeter on Ohms setting.

3. Test the GREEN LED. So far I have had two failed LEDs.

4. Test the BLUE LED.

5. Trim the anode lead to about 5mm.

6. Insert a wire for blue connection into holder and insert LED's. Twist the LED's to ensure the wire is held firmly in place.

7. Pull the wire out slightly so that it only touches the "top" LED's legs.

8. Solder blue connections, trim excess leads and carefully insert a green connection wire. Bend the LED leads slightly so it holds the wire in place.

9. Trim the excess leads and add red connecting wire. Again bend LED leads to hold wire in place. Trim excess leads.

10. Test once more, as easy to replace a failed LED at this stage.

11. Insert the columns of 8 LED's into the holders. Ensure the orientation is correct for when inserted into the PCB, so that the R, G & B wires connect up correctly to labelling on PCB.

12. Solder the anode wire(s). Only one shown here.

LEDBend.pngRedTest.pngGreenTest.pngBlueTest.pngCutAnode.pngBlueConnect1.pngBlueConnectEnd.pngSolderBlueAddGreen.pngSolderGreenAddRed.pngCheckOnceAgain.pngInsertIntoHolders.pngAddAnodeWire.png
0
MarcelV71
MarcelV71

Reply 2 years ago

Hello Ian,
Thanks for clear images and instructions. Can you also tell for wich plan ( a, b, or c) this is?
It only fits like the picture in step 5, but how to connect al the anode wires to the board?

Regards Marcel

0
ian_m
ian_m

Reply 2 years ago

Hi Marcel
long time ago I built it. But I think it was "a" build I followed. Couldn't see any reason to try the others.

Luckily once you have built one "sheet" 8 x 8 array you can solder it to the base board to test it with the actual electronics to verify you have wired it correctly. See my pictures, with only 2 off 8 x x arrays of LED's.

0
MarcelV71
MarcelV71

Reply 2 years ago

Thanks, I re did my Anode plan, and now it works. At first only vertical rows simultanious, now I have 4 panels running ( so 4 top rows are working) the others will follow.

0
StefanM109
StefanM109

Question 2 years ago on Step 8

Please this is the codenumber from the keygenerator: BFEBFBFF000306C3. I need keyConfig(youname + PC ID Code) to use the sofware. Would you be so kind to send me.
tyrio59@freenet.de Thank you Best Stefan