Introduction: Hand-Following Car: Arduino and Ultrasonic Sensors Powered
It all started when I got to know about the upcoming school exhibition and felt motivated to create something innovative using Arduino and IoT stuff.. I referred google for ideas but couldn't find something that caught my attention. It wasn't until coming across a video thumbnail demonstrating a hand-following robot that inspiration struck. I researched further on the topic and found that most of the tutorials online relied on infrared(IR) sensors, which I lacked. Undeterred, I devised my own version of the project.
Utilizing components like the L293D IC, Ultrasonic sensors, BO motors, and Arduino microcontroller, we've crafted a prototype vehicle that autonomously tracks object movements.
In this comprehensive guide, I would like to give you a step-by-step walk through the process of building your own autonomous vehicle that follows your move. If you're new to this field, don't worry! With this guide, it will be a piece of cake for you to make this project, and I believe it will teach you more about Arduino and its integration.
Get ready to bring your ideas to life and amaze with the power of hands-free navigation!
PROJECT INTRODUCTION
This hand-following car project harnesses the capabilities of Arduino as its central control unit. Utilizing a motor shield, the Arduino precisely regulates the speed and direction of the motors, facilitating seamless movement.
Additionally, ultrasonic sensors are used to detect objects ahead of the vehicle. These sensors emit ultrasonic waves and calculate the time it takes for the waves to return, enabling accurate distance measurement (by using a bit of math).
Through coding, the car is commanded to move forward while maintaining a safe distance from detected objects.
This integration of hardware and software enables the vehicle to navigate autonomously, exemplifying the transformative potential of technology in motion.
REAL-WORLD APPLICATIONS
- Automated Surveillance
Configure it as a basic surveillance device that can follow an intruder's movements, possibly integrating a camera for recording purposes.
- Automated Material Handling
In warehouses, vehicles like these can be used to move materials towards a sorting point. They can detect packages and transport them from one place to another without human intervention.
- Disaster Response
Small autonomous vehicles can be employed in disaster-hit areas to navigate through debris and locate survivors using heat sensors or other detection mechanisms.
- Precision Agriculture
Vehicles like this could be used in farming for tasks such as moving towards plants that require attention, delivering water or nutrients directly to the spot where it's needed.
- Parking Lot Car Finder
A similar system could be implemented in vehicles to help them locate their owners in large parking lots by moving towards an activated signal.
- Healthcare Facilities
In hospitals or care facilities, this car can transport medical supplies by following a healthcare provider's hand movements, ensuring swift and hygienic delivery of essential items without direct contact.
Supplies
Keep in mind that the following are the supplies 'Ɪ' used to make this prototype.
×1_Arduino Microcontroller
×1_Motor Shield (or L293D IC)
×3_Ultrasonic Sensors (HC-SR04 or similar)
×2_DC Motors (BO motors)
×1_Breadboard (optional, for prototyping)
×2_Wheels
×1_Castor Wheel
×1_Power Source (e.g., battery pack or power supply)
Jumper Wires
Basic Tools (for assembly)
Chassis or Frame for the Car
All of these supplies are easily available in the market for a very low cost. I can't tell you the exact cost of this project as I've used some of the supplies I already had with me.
Description of Components
➩ Arduino:
Arduino, a programmable microprocessor, enables the creation of an array of projects ranging from LED blinkers to robots and drones, while seamlessly interacting with a diverse range of devices and components.
This will serve as the brain of the rover. We can achieve our desired functionalities with Arduino by programming it according to our needs using the Arduino IDE
Specifically, I'll be using the Arduino UNO R3.
➩ L293D IC
◆ INTRODUCTION
The L293D is a 16-pin Motor Driver IC (Integrated Circuit) specifically designed to control the speed and direction of motors. Motor drivers provide essential protection against back electromotive force (EMF) generated by the motors. Directly connecting motors to the Arduino board can risk damaging it due to this EMF.
◆ SPECIFICATIONS
Motor voltage Vcc2 - 4.5V to 36V
Supply Voltage to Vcc1 - 4.5V to 7V
Maximum Peak motor current - 1.2A
Maximum Continuous Motor Current - 600mA
Dimensions - 4 × 2 × 1 cm
◆ PINOUT
This IC requires external power to operate the motors but utilizes the Arduino's 5V supply for its own operation.
On one side of the IC, there are pins dedicated to controlling one motor, while the pins on the other side control another motor.
The IC has four GND pins and two enable pins, one on each side.
These enable pins are used to adjust the speed of the motor: connecting them to a PWM pin on the Arduino allows for variable speed control (PWM pins on the Arduino Uno are identified by the tilde (~) symbol next to the pin number). In the code, the speed can be adjusted from 0 to 255.
Alternatively, if you're not interested in varying the speed, connecting the enable pins to the Arduino's 5V pin will run the motors at maximum speed or very close to it.
If you examine the pinout image of the IC, you'll find that most of the pins are self-explanatory.
The following is the pinout:
L293D
-----
pin 1 ↠ Enable 1
pin 2 ↠ Arduino digital pin
pin 3 ↠ Motor 1
pin 4 ↠ GND
pin 5 ↠ GND
pin 6 ↠ Motor 1
pin 7 ↠ Arduino digital pin
pin 8 ↠ External Power
pin 9 ↠ Enable 2
pin 10 ↠ Arduino digital pin
pin 11 ↠ Motor 2
pin 12 ↠ GND
pin 13 ↠ GND
pin 14 ↠ Motor 2
pin 15 ↠ Arduino digital pin
pin 16 ↠ Arduino 5v
Tip: You can identify the pins on an IC by using the small black dot at the corner as a reference point.
➩ Motor Shield:
Most motor shields essentially integrate the L293D IC onto a PCB, providing a neater appearance and simplified wiring.
Here, I'm opting for a Motor Shield instead of the L293D IC due to the simplicity in making connections. The shield I will be using was included in an Arduino beginner kit I bought long ago.
Both the L293D and motor shield serve the same purpose in motor control, but the motor shield simplifies the setup process. Also, many motor shields on the market today offer more than just two motor control capabilities.
➩ Ultrasonic sensor HC-SR04:
In this project, we're utilizing three of this sensor—one for each side except for the back.
◆ INTRODUCTION
The HC-SR04 is an affordable and easy to use distance measuring sensor which has a range from 2cm to 400cm
◆ SPECIFICATIONS
Operating Voltage - 5v DC
Operating Current - 15mA
Operating Frequency - 40KHz
Minimum Range - 2cm / 1 inch
Maximum Range - 400cm / 13 feet
Accuracy - 3mm
Measuring Angle - <15°
Dimension - 45 x 20 x 15mm
◆ PINOUT
• VCC: Connected to Arduino 5V.
• GND: Connected to Arduino GND.
• Trig (Trigger): This pin initiates the ultrasonic burst. When it receives a pulse or trigger signal, the sensor sends out an ultrasonic wave. It is an input pin.
• Echo: The Echo pin receives the reflected ultrasonic signal. When the transmitted signal bounces off an object and returns to the sensor, the Echo pin generates a pulse whose duration corresponds to the time taken for the signal to return. This is an output pin.
◆ HOW IT WORKS
It emits an ultrasound at a frequency of 40,000 Hz, which propagates through the air. If there's an obstruction in its path, the signal reflects back to the module. By accounting for the travel time and the speed of sound, one can accurately determine the distance.
◆ CALCULATING DISTANCE
By measuring the time it takes for the wave to return and considering the speed of sound, the distance to the object can be accurately calculated.
Using the average speed of sound in air (343 m/s), the distance to the object is calculated using the formula:
Distance = Speed x Time
The time being measured here is the time taken for the ultrasonic waves to travel to the object and return. Therefore, to obtain the time taken to reach the object, we divide the measured value by 2.
Distance = Speed x Time / 2
We need to convert the speed of sound, 343 m/s, to cm/µs (centimeter/microsecond) since all our other values are in that unit. We do that by multiplying the value with 100/1000000. This gives us 0.0343 cm/µs. Rounding off the value, we get 0.034 cm/µs.
Distance = 0.034 x Time / 2
➩ DC motors (BO motors):
A BO motor is essentially a DC motor with gears. The gearing results in lower speeds compared to standard DC motors. Despite utilizing the same DC motor for rotation, the presence of gear sets significantly enhances torque compared to the DC motor.
We will be using L-shaped BO motor in our car.
The BO motors (Brushed DC) are the driving force behind our car.
➩ Chassis or Frame for the car:
You need a chassis to house all components on the vehicle. You can buy one or make it yourself. I crafted mine from an old cardboard exam board, while multiwood is also an option for construction.
You'll also need a structure slightly higher than the chassis to mount the ultrasonic sensors.
➩ Castor Wheel:
Caster wheels are commonly found under furniture and various objects. Here, we utilize miniature casters positioned at the front of the rover. This setup is chosen for cost efficiency, requiring only two motors at the back.
I used a similar caster wheel available at link.
Step 1: Designing the Circuit
Before we get our hands dirty with assembling the hardware, let's kick things off by sketching out the circuit layout for our hand-following car project. This step is super important to make sure all the pieces come together smoothly and work nicely with our Arduino Uno.
I'm using Tinkercad to design and create the circuits for this project.
Tinkercad (www.tinkercad.com) offers a drag-and-drop interface and a wide range of components, making circuit creation a breeze. Its built-in simulation feature enables real-time testing and troubleshooting. Whether you're a hobbyist or a seasoned engineer prototyping a new project, Tinkercad's user-friendly interface simplifies circuit design. If you're new to electronics and curious to learn, I highly recommend giving Tinkercad a try!
As mentioned earlier, I'll be using a motor shield.
Step 2: Constructing the Car Chassis
I've cut the chassis from cardboard. The dimensions are in the picture if you need them.
You'll also need to create holes on the platform for securing the components. The locations for the holes are also marked in red (The markings are not precise, you might not even need this much holes if you are sticking the components to the chassis).
I recommend planning ahead for the placement of the three ultrasonic sensors. This foresight can save you from potential struggles during the assembly process that I encountered.
To mount the motors securely, I highly recommend screwing or fastening them tightly to the chassis. I opted for screwing. To do this, I attached a lightweight multiwood block under the chassis using wood glue to provide a stable base for the screws.
If you're purchasing your chassis, ensure it meets your specific requirements. Look for one designed to accommodate two motors at the back, a caster wheel at the front, an Arduino, a breadboard, and three ultrasonic sensors. I doubt you'll find a chassis that perfectly fits these criteria, so you may need to make modifications or additions to customize it for this project.
Here's a 3D model...
Hand-Following-Robot-MODEL
Step 3: Assembling Components Onto the Chassis
Motors
Let's begin by securing the motors onto the chassis. This ensures a sturdy foundation for the rest of the components.
Drill holes in the previously attached block for the screws and securely attach the L-shaped BO motors, ensuring that both motors are kept parallel to each other. Tighten the screws firmly to affix the motors securely to the chassis.
Castor Wheel
Position the wheel correctly over the pre-drilled holes and secure it with screws. Alternatively, you can use adhesive if preferred. Additionally, adjust the distance between the castor wheel and the chassis if necessary, especially if the front appears significantly lower than the back. I utilized double-sided screw extenders similar to these ones (link), to achieve the correct height.
Arduino and Breadboard
You can simply use double-sided tape to fix the Arduino Uno and breadboard securely onto the chassis.
However, I chose to use screws since my Arduino already has pre-built screw holes.
Ultrasonic Sensors
This is the most crucial part of the assembly process. There are many ways to secure these sensors, but I decided to mount them at a specific height. If you're doing this another way, just remember not to cover the two eyes of the sensor.
Placing them directly on the chassis shouldn't pose any new issues. If you are choosing this approach, pin them directly on to a breadboard for easier wiring.
Sensor Orientation:
- Sensor-1: Positioned to face straight forward.
- Sensor-2: Placed right next to Sensor-1 at a 45° angle.
- Sensor-3: Positioned opposite to Sensor-2, right next to Sensor-1, also at a 45° angle.
Regardless of how you secure the sensors, achieving precise orientation can be hard. However, it's not necessary to achieve exact angles for the car to function properly. Try to get the angles as close to 45° as possible. In my initial attempt, I measured angles of approximately 40° and 35°, which still allowed the car to operate effectively.
External Power(Batteries)
An external power source might be necessary for your motor shield, depending on its type. While some motor shields draw power from the Arduino itself, this can result in a decrease in motor speed due to the Arduino's limited 5V output power. However, if you're using the L293D IC directly, external power will be required and should be inputted to pin 8 for the motor to run.
You can just use double-sided tape to attach it to the chassis.
The Arduino Uno also requires power to operate when not connected via USB. Therefore, you will need another battery pack to provide power to the Arduino.
Step 4: Wiring
Now comes the hard part, wiring.
Wiring the Sensors
The connections for the 4-pin ultrasonic sensors and Arduino are as follows:
Ultrasonic 1 ↔ Arduino
-------------------------
VCC ↔ 5V
Trig ↔ pin 9
Echo ↔ pin 8
GND ↔ GND
Ultrasonic 2 ↔ Arduino
-------------------------
VCC ↔ 5V
Trig ↔ pin 11
Echo ↔ pin 10
GND ↔ GND
Ultrasonic 3 ↔ Arduino
-------------------------
VCC ↔ 5V
Trig ↔ pin 13
Echo ↔ pin 12
GND ↔ GND
The 'Trig' and 'Echo' pins of the ultrasonic sensors can be connected to any available digital pins on the Arduino. However, if you're using a motor shield, most of the digital pins may already be occupied by the shield's connections. In such cases, many motor shields have additional headers for extending the pin connections, allowing you to access more pins. Please refer to your motor shield's datasheet for specific information on pin allocation.
Since we're using 3 ultrasonic sensors, we'll need a total of 6 digital pins for the sensors themselves. Remember, analog pins on the Arduino can also function as digital pins, if needed, without extra steps. The code remains the same. Just ensure correct connections and assign pins in the code.
If you're connecting the ultrasonic sensors directly to the L293D IC, you'll likely have plenty of pins available for use. In this scenario, follow the below circuit...
Wiring the Motors
If you're using a motor shield, consult its manual for connections. Most likely, you'll have an Arduino-mounted shield, and the only connections you'll need to make will be for the motor and shield.
The connections for the L293D IC Arduino are as follows:
L293D ↔ Arduino
--------------------
Pin 1 ↔ 5V
Pin 2 ↔ pin 5
Pin 3 ↔ Motor 1 anyone Terminal
Pin 4 ↔ GND
Pin 5
Pin 6 ↔ Motor 1 other Terminal
Pin 7 ↔ pin 4
Pin 8 ↔ External Power Positive Terminal
Pin 9 ↔ 5V
Pin 10 ↔ pin 2
Pin 11 ↔ Motor 2 anyone Terminal
Pin 12 ↔ External Power Negative Terminal
Pin 13
Pin 14 ↔ Motor 2 other Terminal
Pin 15 ↔ pin 3
Pin 16 ↔ 5V
The reason we left out some pins is because they are GND pins, and we have already connected the Arduino GND to pin 4 of the L293D. Pin 5, pin 12, pin 13, pin 4 all are GND pins.
Imp: You need to connect the negative terminal of the external power source to the ground.
Hand-Following-Car
Step 5: Programming
Now that all our hardware components are set up, we can proceed to coding.
Below is the code I've written. You may need to adjust the pins in the program according to your setup. I've indicated the pins I used. Copy Paste this code.
// 1. Define motor pins
const int MotorL_pin1 = 2;
const int MotorL_pin2 = 3;
const int MotorR_pin1 = 4;
const int MotorR_pin2 = 5;
// 2. Define ultrasonic sensor pins
const int trig1 = 10;
const int echo1 = 9;
const int trig2 = 8;
const int echo2 = 7;
const int trig3 = 11;
const int echo3 = 12;
// 3. Variables for calculating distances
int distance1;
int distance2;
int distance3;
long duration;
// 4. Function to stop both motors
void Stop() {
digitalWrite(MotorL_pin1, LOW);
digitalWrite(MotorL_pin2, LOW);
digitalWrite(MotorR_pin1, LOW);
digitalWrite(MotorR_pin2, LOW);
}
// 5. Function to move both motors forward
void Forward() {
digitalWrite(MotorL_pin1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MotorL_pin2, LOW);
digitalWrite(MotorR_pin1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MotorR_pin2, LOW);
}
// 6. Function to turn left
void Left() {
digitalWrite(MotorL_pin1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MotorL_pin2, LOW);
digitalWrite(MotorR_pin1, LOW);
digitalWrite(MotorR_pin2, LOW);
}
// 7. Function to turn right
void Right() {
digitalWrite(MotorL_pin1, LOW);
digitalWrite(MotorL_pin2, LOW);
digitalWrite(MotorR_pin1, HIGH);
digitalWrite(MotorR_pin2, LOW);
}
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
// 8. Set motor pins as outputs
pinMode(MotorL_pin1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(MotorL_pin2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(MotorR_pin1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(MotorR_pin2, OUTPUT);
// 9. Set ultrasonic sensor pins
pinMode(trig1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(echo1, INPUT);
pinMode(trig2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(echo2, INPUT);
pinMode(trig3, OUTPUT);
pinMode(echo3, INPUT);
}
void loop() {
// 10. Ultrasonic sensor 1
digitalWrite(trig1, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(2);
digitalWrite(trig1, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(10);
digitalWrite(trig1, LOW);
duration = pulseIn(echo1, HIGH);
distance1 = duration * 0.034 / 2;
// 11. Ultrasonic sensor 2
digitalWrite(trig2, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(2);
digitalWrite(trig2, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(10);
digitalWrite(trig2, LOW);
duration = pulseIn(echo2, HIGH);
distance2 = duration * 0.034 / 2;
// 12. Ultrasonic sensor 3
digitalWrite(trig3, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(2);
digitalWrite(trig3, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(10);
digitalWrite(trig3, LOW);
duration = pulseIn(echo3, HIGH);
distance3 = duration * 0.034 / 2;
// 13. Print distances
// Serial.print("Distance1: "); Serial.println(distance1);
// Serial.print("Distance2: "); Serial.println(distance2);
// Serial.print("Distance3: "); Serial.println(distance3);
// 14. Control movement based on distances
if (distance1 < 4 || distance2 < 4 || distance3 < 4) {
Stop(); // If any sensor detects an obstacle too close, stop.
} else if (distance2 < 25 && distance3 < 25) {
Forward(); // If object in front of sensor 2 and sensor 3, move forward.
} else if (distance1 < 25) {
Forward(); // If object in front, move forward.
} else if (distance2 < 25) {
Left(); // If object to the left, turn left.
} else if (distance3 < 25) {
Right(); // If object to the right, turn right.
} else {
Stop(); // Otherwise, stop (no object detected).
}
}
𝐂𝐨𝐝𝐞 𝐄𝐱𝐩𝐥𝐚𝐧𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧
1. Define Motor Pins
In this section also, we are assigning variables to the pins where we connected our L293D's pins 2, 7, 10, and 15. It just makes the code easier to read.
2. Define ultrasonic sensor pins
In this section also we are assigning variables. But to the pins where we connected our three ultrasonic sensors' Trig and Echo pins.
3. Variables for calculating distances
In this section, we are declaring variables needed to calculate the distance values from the three HC-SR04 sensors.
4. Function to stop both motors
Here, we are defining a function named
Stop();
to stop both motors. This allows us to avoid repeating this piece of code every time we need to stop the two motors. Instead, we can simply call this function.
To do this, we use the
digitalWrite();
command to set both pins of both motors to LOW.
5. Function to move both motors forward
Here, we are defining another function named
Forward();
to move both motors forward. This is also achieved by using the
digitalWrite();
command to set pin 1 of both motors to HIGH.
6. Function to turn left
In this function, we are turning the right motor forward to steer the vehicle left.
Optionally, you could modify the code to also turn the left motor backward. This would create sharper turns. However, in my case, I prefer smooth turns.
7. Function to turn right
To turn the vehicle right, we are turning the left motor forward. This is the opposite of what we did earlier to turn the vehicle left.
●Void Setup
The code in this section runs only once when the Arduino is powered on or reset. It is typically used for initializing variables, setting pin modes, or configuring libraries.
8. Set motor pins as outputs
In this section of the code, we configure the pins connected to the L293D motor driver module as outputs. By setting these pins as outputs, we instruct the Arduino to send signals to the motor driver module rather than receiving signals from it.
9. Set ultrasonic sensor pins
Here, we set the Trig pins of each sensor as output and the Echo pins as input. This is because we send the signal to emit the ultrasonic burst through the Trig pin.
We obtain the time value from the Echo pin, which receives the reflected waves. Therefore, we set Echo as input because we need to read information from it.
●Void Loop
The code in this section runs continuously in a loop until the Arduino is powered off or reset. It is where the main functionality of the program, such as reading sensors, processing data, and controlling outputs, is typically implemented.
10. Ultrasonic sensor 1
In this section, we calculate the distance of sensor 1 from the object using the steps mentioned earlier.
First, we send the ultrasonic waves and get the time it took to return. Then, we calculate the distance based on this time measurement.
We begin by using the
digitalWrite();
command to set the trig pin HIGH. After a delay of 10 microseconds, we set the trig pin LOW. Then, we read the value from the echo pin using the
pulseIn();
command and use this value in the equation to calculate the distance.
Setting the trig pin LOW at the beginning serves as a failsafe measure. In the event that the trig pin is accidentally turned on, this step ensures it is reset before sending the ultrasonic burst.
11. Ultrasonic sensor 2
In this section, we perform the same steps as we did for sensor 1, but for the second sensor.
12. Ultrasonic sensor 3
Here also we do the same as before, but for the third sensor.
13. Print distances
I have intentionally commented out this section. Printing all three values on the serial monitor simultaneously can make it less readable. Therefore, you can uncomment the first, second, or third line according to your need to read the sensor value.
14. Control movement based on distances
This is the most important part of the program. This if-else loop makes the car run.
» In the first condition, we check if any of the distances from the sensors are less than 4 cm:
(distance1 < 4 || distance2 < 4 || distance3 < 4)
This is a safety feature. It ensures that when the car gets very close to an object (when the distance between any of the sensors and the object is less than 4 cm), the car will stop by calling the 'stop function' we defined earlier.
However, this isn't a very dependable feature since it relies on the reflective property of waves. If the obstacle is too thin, the waves may not have enough space to hit and reflect back and the vehicle might hit the object. Therefore, I recommend building a small cushion-like feature at the car's front to absorb the force when it hits something. This is to protect all the other components on the car.
» The second condition:
(distance2 < 25 && distance3 < 25)
If both conditions are true, the car goes forward. If this line of code wasn't included, and if sensor 2 and sensor 3 detect an object in front of them, the car would go right. This is because we check sensor 2's state before we check sensor 3's state. So, if an object is detected in front of sensor 2, the car would immediately turn right without checking sensor 3. By checking this combined condition before the sensors are individually checked, we avoid such an issue.
» In the third condition, we check if the distance value from sensor 1 is less than 25 cm:
(distance1 < 25)
If it is true, we call the forward function to make the car go forward.
» In the fourth condition, we check the distance between sensor 2 and the object:
(distance2 < 25)
If this condition is true, we call the right function to turn the car right by turning the left motor.
» In the last condition, we check the distance between sensor 3 and the object:
(distance3 < 25)
If the value is less than 25, we turn the car left using the function 'Left()'.
» Finally, in the else loop, we call 'Stop()' to make the car stop. The loop will enter this section only when NONE of the above conditions are met.
I recommend experimenting with changing these values in the conditions. I used 25 as an average distance, but you can adjust it according to your requirements.
Step 6: Working
Here are the videos of the car running and distance value printing on the serial monitor.
Step 7: Testing and Validation
- Functional Testing: Verify that all components are working correctly together. Test each feature and functionality to ensure they operate as intended.
- Performance Testing: Evaluate the performance of your project. Check for any delays, inaccuracies, or unexpected behavior in its operation.
- Troubleshooting: Address any issues or bugs that arise during testing. Debug and refine your project as needed to improve its reliability and performance. Feel free to ask me if you encounter any difficulties.
Some Troubleshooting Tips
‣ If you notice that your Serial Monitor is printing values with a higher delay than preset or slowly outputting zero values, check your connections and the pin numbers in the code to ensure they match and are correct. If the issue persists, double-check your connections and try again.
‣ If you have a multimeter, test the functionality of your jumper wires by placing the terminals on both ends of the wire. This is particularly useful for older jumper wires. Additionally, you can use a multimeter to verify if all pins are connected properly.
‣ If the motors aren't working or are turning in the opposite direction, try changing the order in which you connected them. Swap the positive and negative connections to see if it resolves the issue.
‣ If the motors are running too slowly, consider changing the batteries to ensure they're getting sufficient power.
‣ If any sensors aren't functioning, try running a program to calculate the distance value from each ultrasonic sensor individually. Run one sensor at a time by changing the pin numbers in the code accordingly. Then, observe the Serial Monitor to ensure that each sensor is printing values correctly.
‣ Just to be safe, consider securing the jumper connections with masking tape. This helps prevent accidental disconnections during operation.
