Introduction: Batman RGB Wall Lamp

About: I am Ashish a civil engineer and a full-time maker and YouTuber. I love innovating and making unique things that entertain, inspire, and educate you. Check out my YouTube channel for more awesome builds & be s…

In this instructable I am going to show you how I build this Batman wall art lamp. So this build, I actually built for one of my close friend who is a big fan of Batman and I decided to give this lamp on his birthday. The whole build actually made out of MDF and for the lightning I use RGB 5050 LED strip. To make it more clean I decided to install the adaptor inside the lamp and because of that construction only main wire has been come out for the power supply.

So if you like this build then don't forget to leave your feedback in the comment section down below also if you have any suggestions then make sure to leave them in the comment section down below.

Step 1: Material and Tools Used

Following is the list of material I used for this build:-

  1. 3/4" Mdf Piece 24"X12"
  2. 1/4" Mdf Piece
  3. Wood Glue
  4. Paint
  5. Primer
  6. Thinner (to thin down the paint)
  7. RGB 5050 Led Strip
  8. Led controller
  9. 12V power adapter
  10. Mounting Bracket
  11. Wood screws
  12. wire

Following is the List of tools used for this build:-

  1. CNC machine
  2. Jigsaw
  3. 2 Flute end mill
  4. Router
  5. Flush trim router bit
  6. Solder
  7. Soldering wire
  8. Wire stripper
  9. Drill machine and drill bit
  10. Paint gun and air compressor( spray can work really great as well)
  11. Sand Paper 320 grit.
  12. Dust mask and Safety goggles

Step 2: ​Material Cutting and Basic Shape.

Show Starring of this build by cutting out some three quarter inch piece of MDF. The ratio I took for the logo is 1 ratio 2. The overall length of the logo is 24 inches wide and 12 inches width. After that, I move on to my CNC. I fix the job on to the bed of my CNC and with the help of 2 flute roughing bit clean the surface. You definitely no need to do this step, I do because my surface is not clean. Then with the help of 6 mm two flute end mill start the basic shape of the logo. To save the time I did not cut throughout with the help of CNC, here I cut up to the depth of 6 mm. To Mount the LED behind this logo I mill down similar logo profile but slightly offset then the main profile and this profile is shorter in every aspect. I mill down this up to a depth of 6 mm as well. Then I remove my job from the CNC and with the help of jigsaw cut down roughly from outside the logo. Since I have mill down 6 mm deep with my CNC that's why I have a perfect shape which is going to guide my flush trim router bit. I trim down all the rugged edges with the help of router. Make sure to use dust mask while working with MDF because it's very harmful to inhale. After doing the cleaning work I took 150 grit Sandpaper and clean of the lines created by the flush trim bit.

Step 3: ​LED Mounting Area.

Then I cut down a wide strip of 6 mm thick MDF. After that, I made multiple cuts at some intervals onto the shortest side so that the MDF strip could be able to bend at small curves. Once the cuts has been made the strip is quite flexible and easily bend to small radius as well. After that I cut down one inch wide strips from this piece of MDF on which I made the horizontal cuts. Then with the help of wood glue cut down the strips where sharp corner came and then pressed it in that cavity with the help of some light blows of rubber Mallet. After that, I wiped off the excess glue and fills gaps with the help of wood filler. Then I cut down a panel to cover the back portion on to which I have to Mount the LED strip. Then I screwed this back panel onto the logo back and trim down the excess edge with the help of flush trim router bit in my router. Now the back panel is ready to cover up the hollow space behind this logo.

Step 4: ​Priming and Painting.

Once all the main profile work has been finished it's time to do some paint job. For that, I choose grey primer which will provide a good bonding to the paint to stick on. After one coat I sand the primer surface with 320 grit Sandpaper and then apply the second layer of the primer. Since I am going to make a golden logo that's why for the base I need some dark colour. I am not using golden paint So, in spite of that, I am using gold pearl powder which is mixed in the clear coat and to make it visible I choose black colour paint. Just for the experiment purpose I also added glow in dark pigment powder into the clear coat of pearl mixed paint. I applied two layers of this golden paint. Although the one coat completely finishes the job but I didn't get much effect from that glow in dark powder that's why I decided to do the second coat but even that could not able to properly show the glow in the dark effect. Then I decided to leave it as it is. I think the golden Pearl have more effective than that glow in dark powder that's why it barely glows in dark. I wanted to show that in the video but the result is not satisfying that's why I decided not to show this on the camera but I am definitely showing you and this instructables. Once the paint has been dried for 48 hours I apply some bumpers onto the surface so that the paint will not get scratched during electronics work.

Step 5: ​Electronics.

For the electronics work, I started by drilling 8 mm hole into the raised section I have created earlier so that I can feed the wire through that hole and another wire came out from the second hole. Then I started laying out the LED strip. For the material, I use RGB 5050 LED strip with 12 volts 2 amp. DC adaptor with RGB controller. I use CA glue to stick the LED onto the sides because of the tape behind the LED, haven't enough strength to hold it on to the surface. Then I solder the wires with each point so that the script can get the signals from the controller. I use slightly thicker wire because I don't have the smaller one but that does the job done. Then I remove the casing of the adaptor and make the circuit visible desolder the wire connections so that I can solder my longer wire to those points. I also remove the casing of the RGB controller as well and then remove the wires which connects the adaptor to the controller. Make sure to note down the positive and the negative point on to the controller to avoid any damage. Although this is not important but if you want your build to look cleaner, then I think doing these kinds of work definitely make your build cleaner. I tied some knots onto the wire so that I may know which colour wire is going to solder with which point. Then I desolder the connector from the RGB controller and solder the wires to correct position. once the connection has been made I do a test run to check whether it's working correct order or not. After checking the connection I made them permanent with the help of hot glue so that joints may not rip off during further process. Then I desolder the IR sensor from the controller so that it remains inside the casing while the sensor remains outside so that it can receive the signal from the remote. I solder some long wires to the sensor and solder them with a controller as well.

Step 6: ​Finishing.

Finally, I cut down some blocks of wood having the thickness equal to the wall that and then glue it Inside so that I can screw the back panel on to it. I allow it to dry for the whole night and the next morning I mark the whole location on to the back panel and drilled out some holes and screwed the panel permanently to it. I also attach the bracket so that I can Mount the logo to the wall. As far as mounting bracket is concerned I made it by straightening the l bracket and then enlarging the holes which you are seeing in the image with the help of files. Now this peace is ready for the show-off.

Step 7: Ready for the Show.

Finally, the logo is ready for the display.

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