Introduction: Cast Aluminum Belt Buckle
About a year ago I had a Thrift Store Prom Party to attend, and among
the many other jems I found was a studded belt with the Mistfits logo
as the buckle. It was cool, but I wanted to make my own buckle to
personalize it some more.
Here's my process....
Things used:
Epilog Laser Cutter
TechShop San Jose
SJSU Foundry
MDF
Dremel
Drill
Files
Resin Bonded Sand
alcohol/graphite
High temp tar sealant
Aluminum
wood and threaded rod
PC-7 epoxy
Step 1: Make the Pattern
Using one of the lasers at TechShop, some scrap MDF, and a .jpg that
I grabbed from Google Images, I cut and etched my pattern. Using a
Dremel, I accentuated some of the three dimensional details (made the
eye sockets deeper and rounded the edges). Modifying your pattern is
almost always easier than making changes once its cast in metal.
Step 2: Make the Sand Mold
First I made a simple wooden frame out of four pieces of wood. Place
the pattern in the center of the mold, you want an even boarder a few
inches all around to ensure a sturdy mold. Then pack the sand as even
as possible, and let it fully set up.
Once the sand has hardened, carefully take the this first half of the
mold out of the frame and flip it over so the bottom of the pattern is
exposed. Using a file, carve some registration marks for alignment.
Once again carefully put the first half of the mold back into the frame,
and then pack more sand to make part two of the mold. Once part two
finishes setting up take apart the frame and gently pull the two parts
away from one another. Carefully remove the pattern. With a mixture of
graphite and alcohol I coated the surface of the mold, and then burned
away the alocohol leaving a fine layer of graphite as a release. Using
a drill, make a couple holes for venting out any gases, and another
larger hole for the pour cup. For my mold I also drilled holes for my
threaded rod, which is used to securely hold both halves of the mold
together during the metal pouring process. Finally attach the pour cups,
directly above the larger hole, with the high temp tar sealant. Secure
the mold with the threaded rods, and it is ready for a metal pour!
Step 3: Metal Pour!
Get all your safety gear on and pour the molten metal into the pour
cup. Keep a steady hand and don't miss the hole ;)
Step 4: Clean Up
Destroy the mold! Retrieve your metal masterpiece! And de-gate (cut-off)
the unneccessary metal (and recycle it =).
Step 5: Turn It Into a Buckle
First I removed the Misfits buckle, and examined how it worked. There
were two holes where the buckle attaches to the belt, so I drilled
two holes into the crossbones. And there was a little hook in the back
to slide in and lock the belt. I drilled a small hole, big enough for the
wire, and then used PC-7 epoxy paste to adhere the wire to the aluminum
casting. Once the epoxy cures, affix the buckle to the belt, via the
two holes, and we're done.
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24 Comments
9 years ago on Introduction
How much for a custom one?
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
sort of depends on the amount of detail and how long it takes me to make it. I'd charge about $50-60 for the one in this instructable. send me a PM with your idea and I can give you a better estimate.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
One of these
10 years ago on Introduction
Very COOL. I'm jealous. Unfortunately, I only have like one or two of the required items available to me. :-)
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
Might you make your own mini foundry?
https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-foundry-and-sand-cast-aluminum/
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/
if so, best of luck to ya!!
=D
I
hope to*will* build my own one day ;)Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Mini-Forge/
=D
10 years ago on Introduction
Howard Wolowitz would like this, good job!
10 years ago on Introduction
Pretty cool buckle.
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
danke
10 years ago on Introduction
Had you considered building the hook to close the belt and the bracket to attach the buckle to the belt into the pattern?
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
The belt idea came to me after the metal was already cast hahah
10 years ago on Introduction
How do you make resin bonded sand? If it was already provided for you, do you have the ingredients, recipe, or places it can be purchased?
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
I believe it was some sort of three-part mixture. Sand, resin, and some catalyst.
Not sure of all the exact brands. It was some really old barrel that the SJSU foundry
just had laying around, and no one really knew.
As for purchasing... I'm not really sure, have not bought the stuff myself, sorry.
10 years ago on Introduction
I'm curious but why did you destroy the mold?
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
The mold is fragile, and only good for one casting.
If you look closely you can see that the bottom right
bone as far less detail. This is due to an accidental
spill of iron onto the vent of that particular bone.
When I opened my mold for the first time all that it
contained was this single iron bone haha. =\
10 years ago on Step 4
Have you got a way of doing this without destroying the mould?
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
That's part of most molding. You've still got the original pattern so you can just remake the mold.
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
For most metal castings the mold is the consumable which must
be made for each casting. Reusable molds are typically made to
make a wax casting, for the metal casting process. =)
10 years ago on Introduction
You might exercise caution where you wear that buckle, as it is derived directly from the cap badge, or "motto", or the "Queen's Royal Lancers". It entered existance as the "motto" of the 18th Regiment of Light Dragoons in 1759, who were renamed 17th Regiment of Light Dragoons in 1761, and finally 17th Lancers in 1822.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:17th_Lancers_Badge.jpg
Cheers
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
Not only does the skull & crossbones far predate the Lancers as the accepted pictograph for death, but stylistically those two skull & crossbones sets are completely different with the above being much more anatomically correct than that used by the Lancers.