Introduction: DIY Sideboard Cabinet
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This Instructable is how to make a DIY Sideboard Cabinet. You can also see the full blog post at: http://fixthisbuildthat.com/diy-sideboard-cabinet-woodworking-plans/
Tools Used (affiliate):
Materials Used:
Step 1: Make the Legs and Sides
The sides are 3/4″ plywood, 2×2 legs and trim. Cut 4 legs to 33-1/4″ long.
The bottom of the legs get a taper. Put a mark on the bottom 1/2″ in from the inside of the leg and another mark on the inside of the leg 2″ up. Connect the marks to define the taper.
Use a bandsaw or jigsaw to cut the taper on the legs then clean up the rough edge with a sander.
Cut groove in the back of the legs by making two passes on the tablesaw. One cut will define the 1/2″ width and 1/4″ depth and the next cut will remove the excess material. This will hold the back panel later.
Now cut 2 sides to 29-3/4″ x 13″ out of 3/4″ plywood. Drill pocket holes along the long sides that will connect to the legs.
Clamp the pieces in place and connect the legs to the sides with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Use 3/4″ spacers under the side to raise it even with the legs.
Cut 2 pieces of bottom side 13″ long trim from a 1×3 and 2 pieces of 13″ top side trim from a 1×2. Glue and nail the pieces in place flush with the top and bottom of the side plywood.
Step 2: Connect the Sides
The sides are connected by a 7″ plywood back stretcher, (2) 2×2 drawer stretchers and the bottom which is trimmed with a 1×3 on the front and a 1-3/4″ plywood strip on the back. Cut all these pieces to 37″ long and drill pocket holes in the ends.
Lay a side on the table with the inside facing up and attach a drawer stretcher flush with the front and top using 2″ pocket hole screws.
The second drawer rails is attached 5-1/2″ from the top rail to define the drawer openings.
Secure the back stretcher to the back legs flush to the groove for the back panel and even with the top.
Stand up the assembly and clamp the other side to it. Connect the top stretchers first and add a 2x2 center divider to separate the drawer bays.
The bottom is made from 3/4″ plywood. Cut the bottom to 37″ by 15″ and drill pocket holes into the underside of ends and one long side. Attach the 1×3 bottom stretcher to the front with 1-1/4″ pocket screws.
Attach the 1-3/4″ plywood strip to the underside of the bottom flush with the back edge with pocket screws.
Attach the bottom to the sides bottom with 1-1/4″ pocket screws. The bottom stretchers should be level with the bottom side trim.
Step 3: Make and Mount the Drawers
The drawers are made from 3/4″ plywood, for each drawer cut 2 sides at 14″ by 4-1/2″ and a front and back at 15-1/4″ by 4-1/2″.
Drill pocket holes into the ends of the outside faces of the front and back, and join the drawers with 1-1/4″ pocket screws. Cut the drawer bottom to size and glue and nail or staple it to the bottom of the drawer.
The drawers are mounted with 14″ full extension drawer slides. Cut two 13-1/2″ drawer supports from a 1×6 and attach behind the center divider.
Mount the drawer slides to the sides of the drawer bays and then install the drawers on the slides.
Step 4: Make the Doors
The doors are made from 1×3 frames and a 1/4″ plywood panel. The panels are held in a groove inside the frame, this is called a frame and panel door
Cut two rails (the horizontal pieces) to 15″ and two stiles (the vertical pieces) to 18-3/4″ per door. Cut grooves in one edge of all the pieces. The grooves should be sized so your 1/4″ plywood slides in snugly.
Cut 3/4" tongues to match the grooves Use test pieces here as well, but after it’s all tuned in you should have a tongue that fits right into your grooves.
To assemble the doors, cut your prepainted panel sheet into two 14-7/8″ by 14-5/8″ door panels, this will give ~1/8″ of play on all sides. Use glue on the tongues and let the panel float free as you assemble the doors.
Step 5: Prep for Paint and Paint
The side panels of the base were a little bland, so I added some cove trim to the sides. Cut the trim to fit and miter the ends to fit in the panel. Attach with a brad nailer or pin nailer.
Fill the pocket holes with plugs any nail holes with wood putty then sand everything with 150 grit sandpaper to ease the edges and remove any rough spots.
Cut the false drawer fronts to size to fit in the drawer openings with a 1/16" or 1/8" reveal.
I used a foam roller and paint brush and applied 3 coats of Satin Latex gray paint. Sand with 320 grit paper in between coats.
Step 6: Attach the Doors, Drawer Fronts and Hardware
The doors are mounted with partial wrap ball tip hinges. They are easy to mount because you don’t have to cut out any mortises, you just screw them in place. I installed the hinges 3″ from the top and bottom of each door.
Install magnetic door catches on the doors and upper frame to align and hold the doors shut. Fasten the false drawer fronts with 1-1/4″ pocket screws
Install the door knobs and drawer pulls. I made my knobs and pulls from lathe turning kits using the same walnut as the top.
Step 7: Make the Walnut Top
This was probably my favorite part of the build because I got to use more of that awesome old circular sawmill cut walnut. The top measures 42″ by 16.5″, and can be made from three 1×6 boards. If you don’t have access to hardwoods then you can use pine or poplar and stain it to your liking.
Glue and clamp up your table top assembly and then cut it to final size on the tablesaw or with a circular saw.
I sanded the saw marks with 80 grit then 150 grit and finished it with 3 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane in Satin.
Step 8: Attach the Top and Back and You're Done!
The top is mounted to the sideboard cabinet with some L-brackets from underneath.
After attaching the top, you can secure the back to the cabinet with brad nails.
That's it, you're done. If you want to see more details and downloadable plans you can go to the full blog post here: http://fixthisbuildthat.com/diy-sideboard-cabinet-woodworking-plans/
You can also see the full video on YouTube here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsUXSyviLS8
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