Introduction: Dartboard Stand
This tutorial is of a dartboard stand I made for a friend who wanted something they could pull out onto the deck at their lakehouse and put into the shed when they left for home.
I friend already had the dartboard and darts so I am not sure how much that costs but...With the picture light and fancy trim, this entire project cost about $160. Without those two, it would have cost close to $75. :)
I friend already had the dartboard and darts so I am not sure how much that costs but...With the picture light and fancy trim, this entire project cost about $160. Without those two, it would have cost close to $75. :)
Step 1: Measure Twice/ Cut Once
I began by researching and learned that the official game of darts is played with the board (which is 18" in diameter) a precise distance from the throw line and the center of the bullseye a precise distance from the ground. It was this measurement of 5'8" from the center of the bull to the floor that I based my design off of.
I cut a piece of approximately 1/2" OSB board 36" x 36". This left 9" of border around the dart board for wild throws or all of my throws. This is the purpose of this whole project. This is the "surround." So, 68" is 5'8". You subtract the height of the 2x4 used for the base which is actually 1 1/2" actually and you get the length of the two legs. The feet of the stands are 4' long. I put a cross member between for extra support when laying it on its side and moving it. This would be 4 premium 2x4s if you measure twice and cut once should do the trick.
I bought 2 7' long 3" wide trim and 4 of the decorative square blocks (with the lone star in the middle). The blocks were $4 and some change at Lowe's but I think they add a lot. They have some different ones with fleur de lis and other decorative shapes. I'll pick the lone star every time! ;)
One other over kill I did here was the L-shaped trim around the border of the OSB because I didn't want to be able to see the rough OSB edges. The thickness of the L-shaped trim was just right to be the same height as the casing trim that I stapled/nailed to the front. This made it sit flush and look really nice from all angles.
Next, I went to Jo-Ann's Fabric and bought 1 yard of premium wool felt and used 3M number 77 contact cement (spray adhesive) from Lowe's. I sprayed the contact cement onto the OSB board and got an extra set of hands to help me press down the center of the felt and smooth from the center out to the edges. The trim around the edges is 3" thick so it will be ok if it doesn't go to the edge. I don't think it's necessary but I stapled the edges to the OSB board.
I did not want to try to cut in with black paint next to red felt so I painted two coats of exterior black latex paint on all of the trim that would show before using the stapler/nailer to attach it to the OSB board. I only bought 1Quart of paint and it was enough with no primer.
I cut a piece of approximately 1/2" OSB board 36" x 36". This left 9" of border around the dart board for wild throws or all of my throws. This is the purpose of this whole project. This is the "surround." So, 68" is 5'8". You subtract the height of the 2x4 used for the base which is actually 1 1/2" actually and you get the length of the two legs. The feet of the stands are 4' long. I put a cross member between for extra support when laying it on its side and moving it. This would be 4 premium 2x4s if you measure twice and cut once should do the trick.
I bought 2 7' long 3" wide trim and 4 of the decorative square blocks (with the lone star in the middle). The blocks were $4 and some change at Lowe's but I think they add a lot. They have some different ones with fleur de lis and other decorative shapes. I'll pick the lone star every time! ;)
One other over kill I did here was the L-shaped trim around the border of the OSB because I didn't want to be able to see the rough OSB edges. The thickness of the L-shaped trim was just right to be the same height as the casing trim that I stapled/nailed to the front. This made it sit flush and look really nice from all angles.
Next, I went to Jo-Ann's Fabric and bought 1 yard of premium wool felt and used 3M number 77 contact cement (spray adhesive) from Lowe's. I sprayed the contact cement onto the OSB board and got an extra set of hands to help me press down the center of the felt and smooth from the center out to the edges. The trim around the edges is 3" thick so it will be ok if it doesn't go to the edge. I don't think it's necessary but I stapled the edges to the OSB board.
I did not want to try to cut in with black paint next to red felt so I painted two coats of exterior black latex paint on all of the trim that would show before using the stapler/nailer to attach it to the OSB board. I only bought 1Quart of paint and it was enough with no primer.
Step 2: Assembly!
Ok, before we attach the legs, I went ahead and took two long strings, stretched them diagonally to make an x from each corner of the OSB. Where they cross is the center of the board. This is where you will mount the dartboard hardware. It should come with the dartboard and is pretty self explanatory. The only thing that was not was the three small black rubber bumper things. I realized they were supposed to be spread out around the circle of the dartboard to prevent it from wobbling on the center screw. It really made it fit snugly!
Ok, now, I used pocket holes for all of the stand to make it look better and because sometimes it's the only good way!
I purchased a kregg jig to make the pocket holes at the hardware store.
Just look at the finished product for the orientation of the 2x4s and secure them together. Now sand the rough edges and give it a couple of coats of paint.
Ok, now, I used pocket holes for all of the stand to make it look better and because sometimes it's the only good way!
I purchased a kregg jig to make the pocket holes at the hardware store.
Just look at the finished product for the orientation of the 2x4s and secure them together. Now sand the rough edges and give it a couple of coats of paint.
Step 3: Finished
To finish it off I drilled some small holes in the top of the lower blocks (with the star) to hold the darts when not playing. I bought a brushed nickel or copper looking plastic picture light that clamps on the top. It's LED and wireless to light up the dartboard a little outside where you don't have to worry about plugging it in. Enjoy
