Fab Lab Tulsa Trophy and Dancing Robots

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Introduction: Fab Lab Tulsa Trophy and Dancing Robots

About: Hoping to win more Instructables T-Shirts!

Fab Lab Tulsa invited our family to be their guests at Tulsa Maker Faire 2019, and of course we gladly accepted. At the end of our day at the event, we purchased t-shirts and very cute small windup "dancing" robots for the entire family. "Fab Lab Tulsa Trophy and Dancing Robots" is a larger, less complicated, motorized version of the windup dancing robots that I designed, 3D printed and assembled to thank Fab Lab Tulsa for their hospitality and to celebrate their success with Tulsa Maker Faire 2019, and...

When the trophy was completed, everyone who saw it smiled, so I updated the design for family and friends to include animated gear fronts and customized / customizable medallions. I've included the file "Medallion, Blank.stl" to which a 2D printed sticker may be applied for customizing the trophy.

As usual, I probably forgot a file or two or who knows what else, so if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask as I do make plenty of mistakes.

Designed using Autodesk Fusion 360, sliced using Cura 4.2, and printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 2+ Extended and an Ultimaker 3 Extended.

Supplies:

I purchased the following parts:

150rpm 6VDC Gear Motor (search for "DC 6V 150RPM Micro Speed Reduction Motor Electric Geared Motor").

One 1.5, 3, 4.5, 5VDC variable power adapter (available online).

The included file "Parts.pdf" contains the part names, quantities, layer heights, infill and support settings of the parts I 3D printed for this model. The file "Medallion, Blank.stl" contains a blank medallion to which a 2D printed sticker may be applied for customization. The ".3mf" files are for the dual extrusion head and medallions.

This is a high precision print and assembly model. Prior to assembly, test fit and trim, file, sand, etc. all parts as necessary for smooth movement of moving surfaces, and tight fit for non moving surfaces. Depending on you printer, your printer settings and the colors you chose, more or less trimming, filing and/or sanding may be required. Carefully file all edges that contacted the build plate to make absolutely sure that all build plate "ooze" is removed and that all edges are smooth. I used small jewelers files and plenty of patience to perform this step.

The model also uses threaded assembly, so I used a tap and die set (6mm by 1, 8mm by 1.25) for thread cleaning.

I used small dots of cyanoacrylate glue to secure threads if needed, and light machine oil for lubrication of the gears and axles.

Step 1: Assemble the Body.

To assemble the body, I performed the following steps:

  • Pressed the motor into "Body, Rear.stl" until the motor shaft extended 3mm above the motor gear plate.
  • Soldered 120mm lengths of red and black wires to the motor "+" and "-" terminals respectively, then used a small dot of thick cyanoacrylate glue to attach the wires to the body for strain relief.
  • Pressed "Neck.stl" into the body assembly.
  • Pressed "Gear, Crown, Motor.stl" onto the motor shaft.
  • Positioned "Gear, Crown, Axle.stl" on the body assembly, pressed "Axle, Cam.stl" through the crown gear and the rear of the body assembly, then threaded "Cam.stl" onto the axle assembly making sure not to over-tighten.
  • Positioned "Body, Front.stl" onto the body assembly and secured in place with two "Bolt, Front.stl".

Step 2: Assemble and Attach the Legs.

To assemble and attach the legs, I performed the following steps:

  • Threaded one "Pin, Leg.stl" into "Leg, Left.stl".
  • Threaded the motor wires down the the left leg assembly and out through the foot.
  • Attached the left leg assembly to the body assembly using one "Axle, Leg.stl" making sure not to over-tighten the axle.
  • Threaded the remaining "Pin, Leg.stl" into "Leg, Right.stl".
  • Attached the right leg assembly to the body assembly using one "Axle, Leg.stl" making sure not to over-tighten the axle.
  • Made sure both leg assemblies rotated with ease.

Step 3: Assemble and Attach the Arms.

To assemble and attach the arms, I performed the following steps:

  • Positioned "Arm, Left,Lower.stl" over "Arm, Left, Upper.stl" and secured in place using one "Bolt, Arms.stl", making sure not to over-tighten the bolt.
  • Positioned "Arm, Swing.stl" over the arm assembly and secured in place using one "Bolt, Arms.stl", making sure not to over-tighten the bolt.
  • Attached the free end of arm swing to the body using one "Bolt, Shoulder, Long.stl", making sure not to over-tighten the bolt.
  • Attached the free end of the upper arm to the body using one "Bolt, Shoulder, Short.stl", making sure not to over-tighten the bolt.
  • Repeated these steps for the right arm.
  • Made sure both arm assemblies rotated with ease.

Step 4: Attach the Head.

To attach the head, I performed the following steps:

  • Pressed "Arm, Head.stl" onto "Axle, Neck.stl".
  • Positioned "Head.3mf" on the neck, then threaded the axle assembly through the head and neck until snug and the arm is positioned straight downward.
  • Made sure the head assembly rotated freely.

Step 5: Final Assembly.

For final assembly, I performed the following steps:

  • Positioned "Control Plate.stl" onto the body assembly such that both upper arm pins, both leg pins and the head pin were located in the control plate slots.
  • Threaded "Axle, Control Plate.stl" through the hole in the control plate and into the body assembly, making sure not to over-tighten the axle and that the axle rotated freely.
  • Threaded "Axle, Cam.stl" through the slot in the control plate and into the cam, making sure not to over-tighten the axle.
  • Threaded the medallion onto the cam axle, making sure not to over-tighten the medallion.
  • Soldered the power adapter wires to the red and black motor wires, then secured the extra length of wire inside the left foot using small dots of cyanoacrylate glue.

With final assembly complete, I placed small dots of light machine oil on the gears and axles, set the power supply to 1.5VDC and plugged it in. Using an ammeter, I measured the current draw of each model and found it to be between 12 and 20ma.

And that is how I 3D printed and assembled "Fab Lab Tulsa Trophy and Dancing Robots".

I hope you enjoyed it!

Make it Move

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Make it Move

1 Person Made This Project!

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10 Discussions

0
ovisuelo
ovisuelo

1 year ago on Step 5

Pretty cool, thank you sir. You are literally inspiring people. God bless you.

0
gzumwalt
gzumwalt

Reply 1 year ago

Thank you very much ovisuelo, I'm glad you liked it, and love to inspire!

God bless you as well,

Greg

0
RichardW111
RichardW111

1 year ago

While these are really cool they are not "windup" I was a child at the end of the wndd up era. Nothing but a little key sticking out to actually wind up and watch it do. As I recall batteries become popular around here in the late 1960's to early 1970's. Also had my share oof pull string toys as well.

0
gzumwalt
gzumwalt

Reply 1 year ago

Hi RichardW111,

That is true, they are not windup, but are modeled after a windup toy we purchased at Maker Faire Tulsa 2019.

Greg

0
JohnW51
JohnW51

Question 1 year ago

Do you sell kits for these robots? I don't have access to a 3D printer.

0
gzumwalt
gzumwalt

Answer 1 year ago

Hi JohnW51,

I'm truly sorry but no, I do not sell this model in kit nor assembled form for two reasons:

1) It's just me in my Oklahoma basement, and..
2) I do not have the proper Autodesk Fusion 360 license.

Again, I'm truly sorry.

Greg

0
Build_it_Bob
Build_it_Bob

1 year ago

Hi Greg, I thought this looked like your handiwork! Awesome job!
Two questions:
1-how many hours of design work?
2-how many hours of print and assembly time?
You are a master...thank you for sharing!
Bob D

1
gzumwalt
gzumwalt

Reply 1 year ago

Hi Bob!

Yes, that's me! How did you find this model?

Answers to your questions:

1) I took me about 3 hours to design this model.
2a) Depending on the printer and settings, it takes around 5-10 hours of printing time.
"Body, Rear.stl" and "Head.stl" required the most time.
2b) It took me about 15 minutes to assemble.

I call models such as this "remnant prints" since I can use filaments spools having only a few meters of filament remaining to print almost the entire model. The gears, axles, control plate, head and bolts were all printed with my remnant spools, which helps reduce the clutter in my shop!

Thanks again, and I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Greg

1
attosa
attosa

1 year ago

Very, very cool! :)

0
gzumwalt
gzumwalt

Reply 1 year ago

Hi attosa,

Thank you very much, I'm glad someone (other than us) liked them!

Greg