Introduction: Fix and Restore Vintage Singer Sewing Machine
Step 1: Start Greasing!
Step 1, getting machine to work. If you find one and the motor still works your in luck! I found this one at an auction for 30$ and it was so seized you couldn't even turn the wheel by hand. So I got out my favourite 3in 1 oil and everywhere you see metal moving on metal that's where you put the oil. Also you will see little holes in the cast iron and those are oil holes as well, remember a little oil goes a long way. As you oil the machine keep trying to free up the gears with gentle pressure. Clean any loose threads you may see tangled up and gently wipe down your machine. For most vintage machines this is all they need to get running. for more adjustments find a copy of your machines manual as every machine is a little different. For a full restoration keep reading.
Step 2: Take It Apart
If you choose to fully restore and paint your machine, make sure you can get parts if needbelt) Supplies - respirator or good mask - safety goggles - specialty latex gloves for paint stripper - old clothes - cup of ice water - cheap paint brushes with no plastic parts - heirloom paint and varnish stripper - mineral spirits - primer - spray paint (make sure it covers metal) - clear coat -600 grit wet sand paper - clean rag - disposable metal dish - WD 40 - scrapper Start by unscrewing the hand wheel, presser foot and anything els you don't want painted. It's a good idea to take lots of pictures and to keep screws organized in an ice cube tray. So it's easier to put back together. There is a good before and after picture where I polished the silver.
Step 3: Stripping
I used heirloom gel stripper because its less messy and works great on these old machines. Make sure you strip the machine in a well ventilated area and wear all safety equipment these fumes can be toxic. Also remember paint stripper hurts like crazy if it touches your skin. Immediately rinse with ice water. Place your machine on a piece of cardboard and generously paint the stripper onto your machine. Let it sit as directed. Once it's time to start stripping use your scrapper to get it off. This may take several applications. Keep going until you get all the paint off than thoroughly clean with mineral spirits to remove any residue. No it's time to give your machine a quick sand and then were off to priming!
Step 4: Priming Time!
Using tape and newspaper plug all the holes so paint doesn't get on the gears. This is the most important part if you want a nice Finish. Spray lots of thin coats each gently overlapping the other. Remember to take your time and leave at least 12 hours after spraying before you sand. Using your 600 grit sand paper wet sand the whole machine and parts until its nice and smooth. Wipe off the residue an give it a second coat of primer. Same as above wait 12 hours and sand again. It's a good idea to use a clean box to spray in so dust doesn't get blown into your paint an ruin the finish. Using side to side stokes evenly apply a thin layer of paint( going to fast will leave runs) I did about 4 layers of paint lightly sanding between each application.
Step 5: Paint and Decals
When you are satisfied with the coverage of your paint, it's time to sand and add 1 layer of clear coat. I haven't got a finished picture yet because I am still waiting for original singer water slide decals I ordered online. But if you have them you can apply them now and keep doing layers of sanding then clear coat. I usually do about 5 on the base of my machine that's where they wear the most and 3 on the rest. REMEMBER THIS IS JUST A GUIDE! Please follow individual instruction on your spray paint and paint stripper! I am not responsible for any broken machines it took me a couple of try's before they started looking professional. This is the website I use to buy my decals, cheap and very easy to apply. http://www.keelersales.com/servlet/Categories?category=Decals In all this project took me 3 weekends. If you have enough ambition to on a project like this please share some pictures and feel free to ask any questions along the way.

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37 Comments
3 years ago
Every sewing technician will advise against using 3 in 1 oil, it will evaporate overtime and leave a sticky residue inside your machine (it is used for bike chains and other household uses). Sewing machines need sewing machine oil! Also, simply oiling a machine after years of it sitting will not bring it fully back to life. There are inner moving parts that need proper cleaning and oiling. As well, this business of spray painting the machine is ridiculously risky as there are many small orifices.
I'm not trying to be negative, I just want to advise people against doing things that will damage their machine! These are not toys, they are extremely well-made pieces of fine machinery! Hope this helps :)
Reply 1 year ago
WD40 is the stuff that evaporates and attracts dust. There is absolutely no reason not to use 3in1 oil, which is simply a fine mineral oil, exactly what would have been used and would have been the only thing available in the late 1800s when many of these machines were manufactured. I've used 3 in 1 on old sewing machines for many years and never had any kind of problem with it.
To unseize a stuck machine it's totally ok to drench it in WD40 to get it going. However it should then be wiped off and replaced with any light mineral oil.
Reply 3 years ago
HI Toy,
Ok a few things..
1. she did not say use 3 in 1 oil to lobe the machine normally, she used it to break free stuck parts and there is NOTHING wrong with that. no way sewing oil is as good for this purpose.
2. Depending on why it was frozen, her way of doing this very well may have brought it back to full life if she continues later with the correct lubes and oils.
3. While I personally strip machines completely down removing all the guts before I strip and paint them, in this case many people use stripper to do the job. If you are careful and flush the stuff out and off when finished she caused no harm at all. Yes you have to be careful of the oil holes yes this is true. But it is not impossible. I personally sand and sandblast my machines and then boil in a automotive engine block solution removing any residues and flushes all of the grit from sandblasting (if it was) materials out.
I do not use stripper because I learned long ago on aluminum outboard engines and boats that it is a huge mess and many times almost impossible to clean out completely. She will have to pay extra attention at all cracks, holes and crevasses or that new paint job will be eaten away quickly.
4. She did a good job, the paint is even, no runs and it was covered well. SO maybe she did ok after all?
Last but not least she was not saying she is a professional or any such thing, was just sharing her experiences and how she did it. Everyone here can decide to do the same or learn from thins and make changes where they wish to do so. Maybe some positive comments from everyone on good things and what changes one might make would be more helpful than attacking?
THanks for your time and Kristy... keep it up./...
Reply 3 years ago
You may be right about those things! Perhaps I should have paid closer attention to the details. Thanks for the info
8 years ago on Introduction
You should not use 3 in 1 oil on any sewing machine. They make Singer oil and Singer lubricant for this, 3 in 1 oil just isn't good for them. As it ages, it can get thick and gunk up machine.
Triflow is highly recommended too. Usually found at bike shops and very thin and light.
One drop of oil where metal meets metal, there should be a tiny hole in each place it is needed, and then lubricant or grease as some call it, where gears are.
Reply 3 years ago
funny thing.. triflow is a 3 in one lol.. just slightly different. she did fine with using 3 in 1 to break the machine free... just not for longterm uses.... however I have machines that have had nothing but 3 in 1 for literally decades with no ill effects. I sometimes wonder just how much difference there is in comparison to the sites that want to sell you sewing machine oil... Many say NEVER buy oil at a bicycle shop because its wrong wrong wrong lol... and then triflow..... lol...
Question 4 years ago on Step 5
If I put the stripper on-- there are many holes in the sewing machine for oiling. How do you keep the stripper from getting in those holes and ruining the inner parts? I don't want to disassemble the entire sewing machine. I have a Singer 500A Rocketeer sewing machine I would like to paint solid light pink color with black and chrome accents. Thank you, Kathy
5 years ago
I inherited my grandmothers singer sewing machine ( P. G. Built on motor) 15-91. I used it for many years. Now I believe the motor is fried. Can somebody tell me where in Mpls,-St, Paul area I can get it fixed. A friend gave me two singer sewing machines, I think are older than mine, that may have parts compatible to mine. I don`t think so, however would be willing to barter them for the repair of mine.
5 years ago
I just found a singer from 1913 in the trash. Got it home and after first inspection: wow! Whoever had it last used the wrong oil. I can see the goo everywhere! The wheel is almost completely stuck- no wonder the belt ripped. I am determined to fix it! The table is in decent condition the cast iron has only one wheel missing but the machine wow that will be fun... how do I get the little plaque off above the serial? Can I just pull the let's say studs out? I am not sure yet if I want to repainted it as it adds to the charm of the old. I need to see if I have to buy more things like the bobbin. When I made up my mind and have the parts I'll start documenting it. Any ideas and tips are appreciated!!!!
5 years ago
No follow up decal posts? Makes hulk sad.
9 years ago
Still waiting on those decals! As soon as its done ill post some
Reply 6 years ago
Following
Reply 8 years ago on Introduction
Gday Kristy,
I need replacement decals, can you tell me where you got yours? I am after the "pheasant" decals specifically and haven't been able to track them down.
Thanks for your time
6 years ago
Question...I'm trying to "repurpose" my broken Singer sewing machine. Does the large metal plate on the bottom of the machine unscrew from the "neck" of the machine. I see some screws underneath that are really stuck. Wondering if they would separate the base from the "neck". Thanks.
7 years ago
We have a family owned Factory style Singer Sewing Machine that was left in the home and is now completely rusted. Is it Salvageable at all and if so do you know if someone buys them?
Reply 6 years ago
If you're local to East Anglia we may be interested in buying it as we need something to repare a horse's coat on.. Thank you.
Reply 6 years ago
You should look up the serial number on this site.
http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html Some machines are rare and only a few were made and could be valuable. Also, an industrial machine will be suitable for more heavy duty work and is definitely worth saving.
6 years ago
I have a New Leader crank sewing machine. Does anyone know if it takes a different size shuttle bobbin case? The shuttle is not picking up the top thread. It is too far away from the thread
6 years ago
i am looking for the decal of the ruler that is on top of the cabinet near the base of the sewing machine
8 years ago on Introduction
My mother en law has a 1918 Eldredge "B" Sewing machine manufactured by the National Sewing Machine Company.I was wondering if anyone out there had any information to where I could get a belt for it.Also I need some how to tips on restoring it.I do not want to decrease the value and originality.Thank You