Introduction: Fully Folding Indoor Shower

First of all, thanks to my dear friend alcasa, he let me translate and publish this tutorial, here is the original post http://alcasabricos-alcasa.blogspot.com/2012/01/ducha-interior-totalmente-plegable-y.html .It was a long time ago, perhaps years that my head was about the idea of making an indoor shower for our van.

Having seen the folding shower of Reimo that in its lower part has a bucket or basin of about 70 cm in diameter, I started to encourage myself to build something similar, but there was a difficult barrier to cross, the shower tray, that large basin, Where do I keep it in a T-3 without disturbing such a basin?

Then I started to squeeze my brains and the first version was based on a shower tray that would be a baby inflatable bathtub. I bought one of 60 cm in diameter but had three major defects, being round is wasted space and is too small, the second is very delicate material, I do not even want to think the spill of water and soap by a pore of the bathtub, and The third the time necessary to swell and deflate when folded.

So, starting to squeeze my brain for a flexible, waterproof, very abrasion-resistant and durable material, I remembered the material with which the Zodiac inflatable boats are built, and ALREADY, I HAVE IT !!!! Canvas pvc my great friend the pvc.

I bought a good piece of 1.5 m2 in "Barcelona Station Service" and she, to experiment with it, had to do a few folds and glue it, no sewing, the problem was the tail, the pvc pipe I used the loktite, also, the normal impact glue either, so I sought advice from a company specializing in industrial technical plastics and recommended a special green impact glue for flexible pvc. Hands to work, to mark to fold and to glue:

Step 1: Materials

All you can need you find it in Brico shops.

shower curtain
Plastic floor tiles, such as those in the gym.
zipper
A good piece of pvc on canvas
PVC glue
Sandpaper
An aquarium water extraction pump
A shower set
A shower pump

Step 2: Sand and Glue

Beginning to glue the corners of the pvc bucket with the special impact glue for flexible pvc and spatula to go faster.

Once the square is dry, we bend it by its diagonal.

And we have this triangle that we will glue again, and then double again by its diagonal, joining already by its last piece.
When gluing the triangles, we were able to make a square drawer of 66 X66 cm just the measure of 4 assembling pvc grid tiles.

Now you had to sew the two polyester shower curtains like a tube, and sew the door with a zipper of 2'30 m. Inverted "L" shape.

Step 3: Now to Sew and More Glue

It was necessary to go with special care that both pieces, the pvc bucket and the polyester curtain had the same perimeter or development so that later, when joined with the sewing machine, they would fit to the same extent.

After
sewing both pieces not without difficulty, since when passing the needle through the glued area the thread was split, hooked with the tail etc etc ....

We had to waterproof the joint, with normal impact glue on the polyester of the curtain, we stick some strips of waterproof fabric, we first glue the seam.

Protecting the polyester curtain with newspaper, we give a layer of impact glue with brush.

A piece of waterproof fabric also glued with impact glue will give a perfect sealing in this delicate seam.

Step 4: The Cockpit Mounted

Now you will see several exterior photos of the cockpit mounted, there is no photo that can be observed in full given the location of the shower, I hope you can get an idea.

Here I put a frame in the upper part, but soon I dismissed it to see that it was much trasto for so little utility, and above delayed much the installation and the folding.

Step 5: The Evacuate Sistem.

Now the subject was to evacuate the water from the bottom of the bucket to the sink, in the background I put the 4 pvc grid tiles 2 cm high, in one of them I drill a hole to install a bilge pump of the Sahara brand that is a nautical bomb that is used to evacuate the water that is drained in the bottom of a boat

It has a buoy that begins to suck just when the water reaches 2 cm of level, it works at 12 v., Perfect, but it has a danger, the hairs could become entangled in the shaft and block it, so I put mosquito net in the Input grids to protect it.

By sucking the pump, as it is not subject to anything, the vibrations made it bend and with that it stopped and did not suck the whole level, so it had to be held, how? You could not sew or glue anything to the bottom of the bucket, so I went to Newton's law.

We will make a mortar counterweight with its shape based on a formwork, we protect the pump well with food plastic film.

Making a bricklayer does not go so badly.

Mortar of portland, water, thick kneads ........

We take advantage to put a handle of stainless steel rod to move the counterweight in comfort.

And that's how it looks fresh, I'll unpack it tomorrow to see how it's been.

Step 6: The Hot Water.

Now the theme of hot water;
After giving it to the coconut, I came to the conclusion of not putting more junk in the van, because we already have pots to boil water and a 12-liter basin to scrub kitchen utensils. You just had to optimize its use.

I put to work, I made with a pump, hose, and telephone-shower with built-in valve, it was necessary to transform the pump into automatic by inserting between the pump and the telephone-shower an anti-return valve with a pressure switch that would turn off the power Of the pump when closing the valve and increasing the pressure in the hose.

This contraption should be firmly attached to the basin and the pump should rest with all of its bottom at the bottom of the basin to absorb all the water from it.

So with a plastic superpinza and a few bits of my friend the pvc, I made the union of both pieces conforming them with heat and some screw of stainless steel plate.

And everything well folded makes this package, the package that I have taken by hand, measures about 23 X 23 x 9 cm, the pvc grid tiles measure 33 X 33 cm.