Hack Your 2010-18 Prius Emblems V3

Introduction: Hack Your 2010-18 Prius Emblems V3

From previous postings of Prius emblem hacks, it's getting pretty wasteful to reprint the whole mount assembly just for a new design. So here's interchangeable version.


Supplies you'll need:

- 3D printer, modeling tool & slicer (of cause)

- 10 mm socket wrench with extension

- hot glue gun

- super glue

- soldering iron + heat shrink tubing

- Precision calipers

- short phillip's head screwdriver

- Thin DC12V LED Panel $15 for 10 at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FC3P5W?psc=1&ref=pp...

- weather proof clear gloss finish https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7701830-Stops-12...

- multi color Permanent Markers https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-A...

- Aluminum foil Tape https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Professi...

- Spool of 20 gauge black/red wires. https://www.amazon.com/Shonsin-Silicone-Flexible-C...

- 6.5mm nylon fasteners https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784S6LWZ/ref=p...

Step 1: Remove Rear Trunk Panel, Run Wires From Break Lights to Power Rear Emblem.

**** Please remove battery terminals before proceeding ****

For rear panel removal, please go to steps 2-3 of my V1 hack https://www.instructables.com/Hack-Your-Prius-Rear... Amazon LED packages also came with several adapters. Pick one, cut off the socket, solder & heat shrink to your new power run.

Step 2: Remove Front Emblem.

Pop open hood, User a 10mm socket, carefully remove the latch hook for more access room. Use a very short screwdriver, feel the 2 mounting screw heads & remove them. Feel for 2 snap on tabs, push down & out, catch with other hand. Emblem should pop out into 3 pieces. Save them for later reselling if needed.

Step 3: Run Wires From Side Marker to Power Front Emblem.

I wanted the emblem to lite up only when headlights are on, and the easiest solution is to tap into side marker socket. Remove a side marker bulb, solder & heat shrink some black/red wires. Run the wires thru engine bay, under radiator & battery tray, zip-tie it along the way. Solder female connectors onto hew wiring. Connect LED & test for polarity before proceeding.

Step 4: Test Your Electrical

Reconnect battery. Connect your LED and turn on headlights & breaks. (I used a scrap 2x4 as legs). IF all works, add a some hot glue at soldering joints for weather proofing.

Step 5: Design & Test Fit Rear Emblem

In order to make it modular, I envision a mini light box with whatever design in front, a support mount, and a decorative ring. I'm also taking advantage of holes already used for old emblem. My TinkerCAD design consist of 3 pieces measuring 96x150mm. I also got 2 decorative inserts of plain oval, or circular, matching light box dimensions behind it. Outer ring should be slightly larger that insert than insert piece. When glued, whole unit is slightly over 10mm thick (.5 inches) and mounted with .65 mm nylon push rivets. Print & dry fit, sand down any excess. When done, peel off LED & stick it to light box.

Step 6: Design & Test Fit Front Emblem

From emblem is more challenging. I designed a mounting rim with matching snap hooks, and backing tabs with same ring size. It needs to snug fit, yet snap-in flexible. I have lots of room in front bumper, so light box mount can be further away & I'll get better dispersal effect. Dry fit hooks to mount ring to fit. Then super glue in place.

Step 7: Option "chrome Effect"

3D print finish to a smooth chrome is too hard right now. I got lazy and tried AC duct tape instead. Just cut & stick to fit, smooth out to your best effort and remember to slip the gluing area. Don't worry if it's not gonna be perfect,

Step 8: Now Be Creative

Once prototype design fits well, go nuts. I printed several others and used permanent markers for coloring, then several coats of clear coats to finish.

Now go make your own!

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