Home Sprung Dance Floor With Pool Noodle Plus Advice

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Introduction: Home Sprung Dance Floor With Pool Noodle Plus Advice

Due to the COVID-19, my mom asked if we can build a dance floor to practice at home. My dad searched online and found that professional sub-floor won't be cheap. There are many companies that provide sub-floor but quite expensive. After more searching, he came across dance studios building sprung dance floor with pool noodles - https://www.allegrocsa.org/post/pool-noodles-danc... and https://www.allegrocsa.org/post/pool-noodles-danc... If this works with a dance studio, there’s no reason why this wouldn't work for home sprung dance floor.

In the DIY, it will provide guide as well as advise on building a home sprung dance floor with pool noodle.

Supplies

Bottom Plywood - $13 per piece (10 total)

Top Plywood - $ 37 per piece (9 total)

Screws/drill bit/sand paper/wood filer/etc - $ 50 (around)

Liquid Nail - $ 2 per 16 oz (6 total)

Entry wood - $10 (one 2" x 2" and one 2" x 6")

Pool noodle cutting jig - $ 7.10 (for wood to make)

Pool noodle - $ 4 per piece (10 total)

Stagestep Marly Vinyl - $884 (two roll of 20 feet plus roll of 4" double tape)

Mirror - $ 450 (self install)

LED TV 65" - $900 (future purchase)

Step 1: Sub-floor/Marley Dance Vinyl Planning

The sub-floor are built with two layer of 4' x 8' @ 1/2" plywood. As such, you need to layer the top layer center at the edge of the bottom layer. See figure above as an example of our sub-floor planning. This center provides support. In addition, you also want the Marley dance vinyl to layer in a pattern to avoid the edge of the top layer plywood. Most Marley dance vinyl are 5'3" or 6.57' wide. The length can go as long as 65'.

Step 2: Building the Sub-floor Bottom Layer

There are many type of plywood’s. From Home Depot, some cost as low as $13 for 4' x 8' to as high as $60. The OSB are the cheapest but they do have a smell. We used the OSB plywood for the bottom layer - https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-4-ft-x-8-ft-Orien... Note that the cost has gone up. But if we have to do it again, we would use Sheathing Plywood - https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-4-ft-x-8-ft-Orien... and again the price has gone up. After you purchase these and based on your sub-floor planning, have Home depot cut them for you. Cutting yourself will never be in a straight line (unless you have a wood cutting shop/equipment). Make sure that you are ready with all your measurements to instruct them on how to cut the plywood. If you need to adjust at home, use a circular saw - https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-7.... These 4' x 8' plywood fit our Sienna van. We brought around 6 at a time.

As for the pool noodles, we got them from Target. They have the super size for $4 each. Go with the super size. From the video above, you need to cut them into 2" length. To do this, build yourself a cutting jig so that they can be cut in almost equal size. See image above. Each pool noodle gives you about 24 pieces. Then, glue the 2" pool noodle to the bottom layer plywood with liquid nail. Space them 1 foot apart. In our case at the edge, the pool noodle is split in half between two plywoods or in fourths at the corner. If we have to do it again, we would not split them - see this video (https://www.allegrocsa.org/post/pool-noodles-dance-floors) for the pool noodle pattern. As for glue, use liquid nail from Home Depot - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Nails-Interior-Projects-10-oz-Tan-Latex-Construction-Adhesive-LN-704/100659439.

Step 3: Building the Sub-floor Second Layer

For the second (top) layer, you want it to be smooth and strong. As such, use the Hardwood Plywood -https://www.homedepot.com/p/12mm-Sande-Plywood-1-2... Again, after you buy them, have Home Depot cuts them for you as required.

As this point, you will notice that the second layer isn't flat. These are wood and they don't necessary be flat. To achieve level, you use screw and countersunk them. To countersink the screw, drill countersunk hole based on the screw size. For screw, we use these - https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPAX-10-x-1-in-Philip... We need around 6 packs. To drill countersunk hole, use this countersink drill bit - https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-SpeedLoad-5-Piec.... We also order the drill bit depth stopper - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VS72R3/ref=p.... This drill bit depth stopper allows you to drill the require depth without over drill into the wood. Now, where do you need to screw at. Screws are required at each corner of the plywood. Then, six more screws around the perimeter. But that depends on the wood. If you step on one side of the edge and notice gap (uneven), put a screw on the opposite side. Try to put the screw as close to the edge as possible.

After you screw the top sub-floor plywood to the bottom layer, fill the hole with wood filler - https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Plastic-Wood-8-oz-....If the wood filer is too dry, just a a tiny bit of water and mix it with the putty knife - https://www.homedepot.com/p/ANVIL-Putty-Knife-Set-... Let the wood filer dry and sand it a bit with 400 grit sand paper - https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Pro-Grade-Precision....

Step 4: Building the Entry

On the entry area, get a 2" x 6" lumber from Home Depot. Then, get a 2" x 2" lumber. Get a reasonable smooth one. Please note that the dimension isn't exactly 2". By combining the 2" x 6" with an 2" x 2" lumber, you get 3" height. Cut them to correct length. Then screw the 2" x 2" with the 2" x 6". We drill 1/2" hole half way through and screw from the 2" x 6" into the 2" x 2". Push the other side of the 2" x 6" under the sub-floor (remove pool noodle if necessary). If they don't look even with the sub-floor top layer, you can put some 8.5" x 11" paper under neath after cut them to 4" width. Keep adding until they are leveled with the sub-floor top layer. Then countersunk screw accordingly with the sub-floor. Our entry uses three screws. Then, wood filer and sand a bit.

Step 5: Marley Dance Vinyl

There are quite a bit of online shop for this. But this is a good guide on Marley dance vinyl - https://www.dancestudioowner.com/members/DanceStud... At the end, we choose Stagestep Super Timestep for the following reasons:

1. Cheaper, at 2.5mm thickness, and last 18 years

2. The 6.57' fits nicely with our floor dimension. This allows a better pattern and has only one seam

3. We order the two pre-cut roll at 6.57' width with length of 20 feet. Though, the received rolls are actually longer than 20 feet. It is more like 23 feet.

4. Also order the 4" professional double side tape. (Hasn't apply the tape yet).

Step 6: Lay the Marley Dance Vinyl

This isn't as easy as it sounds. But keep laying it until you are happy with it by following the company instruction. Don't cut yet. If you need to cut on the corner like our room, leave extra 5 inches. Or cut a little bit at a time. It is better to have extra than be short. To cut, use a putty knife or sharp scissor. My dad uses a sharp survivor knife. Also read the company info on how to lay the Marley vinyl and cut them. We would recommend that you do the final cut with a straight leveler and a sharp knife. After you have marked accordingly, move it out a bit from the edge, put something underneath (such as news paper), use the straight leveler as guide, press tight on the leveler, and cut with a sharp knife.

Step 7: Mirror

After searching online, the cheapest mirror company is https://themirrorcompany.com/. It is on order and won't be available until Sept 2020. We ordered one 6' x 8' mirror and will install this ourselves.

The mirror was delivered today 9/19/2020. My dad was suppose to install it. But the delivery people says it is over 100 lbs. After my parent discussed, they had the mirror company installed. My dad mentioned that the delivery takes so long due to the fact that there is one installer for the entire California/Arizona. Though overall, I am happy with the mirror.

Step 8: TV for Zoom Class

Now TV for zoom class, we choose the Samsung Q60T or possible the Q70T 65" due to the fact that we have iPhone and require AirPlay 2. This isn't cheap and will likely wait until it goes on sale or better deal. In the mean time, we use an older 50" LED TV. To mount the LED TV, we recommend the "QualGear QG-TM-001 37-Inch to 70-Inch Universal Ultra Slim Low Profile Picture Hanging Style Wire Rope Wall Mount LED TVs" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYSG050/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It is cheap and mount flush to the wall with 0.75" depth.

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    12 Comments

    0
    IanK46
    IanK46

    11 months ago on Step 1

    i would be worried that with the movement the screw heads would come through the floor covering you could use a tongue and grove wide board and float it on top of the noodles

    0
    cocoflower0808
    cocoflower0808

    Reply 11 months ago

    From the video, they mentioned that one screw poped up and not sure what type of screw they used. That's the reason why my dad chose the SPAX screw which is fully threaded. In addition, the wood filer over the screw should help. Though, he is not an expert on this one.

    0
    IanK46
    IanK46

    Reply 11 months ago

    if the flooring sheets are tongue and grove, the sheets would move together so you wouldn't need to screw the meeting edges and putting a skirting on top would hold the outer edges down using noodles is a good idea, i remember when laying floating floors we would use strips of hardboard backed with foam to lay the flooring on and just glue the joints

    0
    dwieland
    dwieland

    11 months ago on Step 2

    I think what you mean by "ridge" is properly termed a jig or guide.

    2
    DavidC60
    DavidC60

    11 months ago

    "Cutting yourself will never be in a straight line (unless you have a wood cutting shop/equipment)."

    Just FYI, you can get very straight cuts on large pieces like this if you lay it on some sacrificial 2x4s and use a cutting guide with your circular saw. Clamp on cutting guides are fairly cheap and are basically just straight pieces of metal that you clamp in place. Run the saw against the guide and it makes a very clean straight cut.

    0
    drlexluthor
    drlexluthor

    Reply 11 months ago

    old carpenter's trick :)

    0
    NormanC16
    NormanC16

    11 months ago

    Cool. But those noodles degrade in less than one year. They become brittle and make a mess. We always change them out for new ones. It may be the pool water doing it so you could be ok.

    1
    arkon476
    arkon476

    Reply 11 months ago

    Would the noodles degrade in the absence of UV sunlight? This might be a good way to sound-proof the floor of an upstairs condo or apartment.

    0
    NormanC16
    NormanC16

    Reply 11 months ago

    I'm not sure. Just know how they react in the pool and the pool shead.

    2
    cynnel22
    cynnel22

    Reply 11 months ago

    I've used pool noodles for sanding balls (to get inside bowls on a lathe) and other indoor use things and they've been fine for years with no degradation. My guess it's the UV or chlorine that's breaking them down.
    Pool noodles are fantastic for all sorts of hacks.

    0
    seamster
    seamster

    11 months ago

    This is quite an impressive and ambitious project, very good to see the details. Nice work!!

    0
    cocoflower0808
    cocoflower0808

    Reply 11 months ago

    Thank you! 😊