Introduction: How to Build a 12x20 Cabin on a Budget
Building a cabin yourself is much more economical than buying a prefab storage shed. The cost of materials for this build, including doors and windows, was around $2,200, which was about the same price as the install would have been on one of this large size if I’d purchased it from a hardware store. I know this for a fact because six years ago I bought a 12x16 shed from a well-known company close to where I live and it cost $2,000 for them to build it and drop it off. Today that same building would cost $4,200. With such a big price increase I decided that if I wanted to add a cabin to my property I had to build it myself.
If you decide to do the same, remember to check with your local authorities to make sure you don’t need a permit. It’s not likely that it’s required for a building of this size, but you never know.
If you would like to see the finished inside of the cabin please click here: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-finish-the-inside-of-a-12-x-20-cabin-on-a-b/.
If you would like to see the matching modern outhouse please check this out: https://www.instructables.com/id/modern-outhouse/.
Step 1: Floor Illustration
Here is the 12x20 floor plan showing where the 4x4s and the floor joists would be located.
Step 2: Drilling and Planting the Posts
1st picture: shows my ford tractor and my neighbors post hole digger he let me borrow.
2nd picture: shows the posts planted and the bottom 2x10 stringers.
3rd & 4th pictures: show the upper 2x10x12 and the 2x10x16 upper stringers being nailed in at 7 feet 8 inches.
Step 3: Setting the Center Rafter Board
This picture shows the center rafter board. I measured over 6 feet to the center. The roof is going to be a 5/12 pitch roof so the rafter board had to be 30 inches to the top of the board.
Step 4: Making the Angles for the Top and Bottom of the Rafters
1st picture: shows using a quick square. Put the pivot point at the top of the board and turn the square until the 5 on the * COMMON TOP CUT* line graph lines up with the outside of the board. Then draw the line to make the angle.
2nd picture: Once you cut your first angle then you have to measure from the tip of your cut down the length of the rafter to get your measurement for the seat cut. Once you have that measurement then you put the pivot point on that mark and turn the square until you get your 5/12 angle again. Then measure up that angle 2 1/2 inches and draw that line.
3rd picture: shows taking the edge of the square and lining it up with the 2 1/2 in line and turn the square until the tip is lined up with the edge of the board. Then draw that line.
4th picture: shows the angle seat that I just drew cut out.
Step 5: Setting the Rafters
1st picture: shows the rafters being set next.
2nd picture: shows the rafters on and the starting of the purlins being put on the top of the rafters for roof support. This is what the metal roofing is screwed to.
3rd picture: shows the tails all cut to 9 inches long and shows the steel roofing over hanging the roof by 2 inches to support the facia boards.
4th and 5th pictures: show the roofing installed.
Step 6: Adding on a 4 Foot Porch
Here is where it started to get complicated for me. I was looking for a 12x16 cabin, but once i looked at it I decided I wanted the whole 12x16 for floor space so i added a 4 foot porch to the 12x16 to make it a 12x20 total building instead of a 12x12 inside living space.
Step 7: Side Wall and Purlin Illustration
Step 8: Lag Bolting the Outer Joist to the 4x4 Poles
I had to screw (36) 3x3/8 inch lag bolts to all the outer joists into the 4x4s for stability.
Step 9: Hurricane Studs
1st picture: shows the (20) 13 inch hurricane studs with the 5/12 pitch angle cuts.
2nd picture: shows them installed.
Step 10: Floor Joists and Insulation and Floor
1st & 2nd pictures: show the (14) 2x10x12 floor joist installed
3rd & 4th pictures: show the 1x2 furring strips nailed to the inside of the floor joist 1 inch below the top of all the joists.
5th picture: shows the 1 inch insulation board between each joist before gluing and nailing the floor to the joist.
6th picture: shows my Dad lending a hand nailing down the floor.
Step 11: Rough Sawn Lumber for 8 Inch Board and Batten Siding
1st - 3rd pictures: show my dad cutting the siding boards to 8 foot long.
4th - 6th pictures: show the boards up on the wall and the soffit and the facia boards being put on.
Step 12: Studding in the Porch Ceiling
This picture shows the studding in for the porch ceiling, 16 inch centers and 4 foot long studs.
Step 13: Studding in the Front Wall and Door Frame
Studding in the front wall and front door frame, it was a hot day!! Here's my dooraggin' Dad! Just had to take a picture of this! He-he-he...
2nd picture: my friend Josh came over for a day to lend a hand on the mitre saw.
Step 14: Gable Ends
Here are the gable ends finished with the batten strips attached. All that's left for them are the two vents.
Step 15: Finished Cabin Structure
Finalist in the
Fix & Improve It Contest
Question 10 months ago on Step 7
In the step 7 illustration, it appears that the 7’8” measurement is taken from the bottom of one 2x10 to the top of the other one. Seems to me that would only give you 5’8” of head room between the two 2x10’s. Would you please clarify that? Thanks. Dan
1 year ago
thank you so much
Question 1 year ago on Step 5
Do you have material list for this cabin?
1 year ago
Enjoyed your post. Thank you very much for sharing.
Question 1 year ago on Step 3
Is the 4 by 4 cut cut and fitted into the top plate for the roof? I can't seem to tell
1 year ago
Can't help but chuckle at many of the comments. "I WOULD or PLAN TO". Its human nature. 99% will still be planning and dreaming until old age is the excuse. Good Job ! I would bet money its still as solid as when you first built it.
3 years ago on Step 15
I was a little surprised that so many were so critical of your building
techniques. No, they are not to "government" standards, but they are
fine in this instance based on the size of the structure. I will wager
that the building will still be there when most posting here are dead
and gone as long as you continue to do maintenance on it as required. I
like it and it is a nice cabin.
I am a licensed contractor, so I
clearly understand building codes and safety, and I still see no issues
with your shed/cabin. Building codes are different everywhere, and I
actually built a small 20x20 cabin using almost similar techniques 25
years ago when I was very young and had limited building skills at the
My small cabin was in a rural county location where there
were no building codes at the time, so I could do it however I wanted. I
used 6x6 pressure treated posts (no concrete either), although I put
them about 4 ft down on hard undisturbed soil with about an inch of
gravel in the bottom of the hole, then packed them back with the dirt I
dug out of them. To this day my 6x6 posts are still as solid as the day I
My cabin is 8 ft off the ground due to flooding
possibilities, so it sits almost 20 ft off the ground at the ridge
points. I have done very little maintenance on it as well, since it was
stained instead of painting. I haven't even had to stain it again. I
used a good acrylic stain and it is amazing how well it has held up. I
shingled the roof with 30 year 3-tab shingles and they look like they
could last another 10+ years even today.
My building is still
standing today and we use it often. It looks exactly as it did the day I
completed it really other than the trees around it are all much larger
and I have improved the interior over the years. It hasn't sagged,
settled, blown down or collapsed and the walls haven't pushed our or
apart either. I have vaulted ceilings as well, and my construction was
very similar. Looking back, if I could to do it over again, I would have
placed my ledger boards for my floor joists directly on top of the 6x6
posts, rather than bolting them to the 6x6s. That is clearly a better
building technique that didn't seem that important at the time. I just
didn't know any better. The key to my success and the longevity of me
doing it that way is my ledgers and bolts are not exposed to the
elements. There is always the concern of shearing, but after 25 years
without any issues, I'm feeling pretty good about it. As low as his
structure is to the ground, shearing isn't much of a worry. 8 ft off the
ground is a different story.
My siding over hangs my ledger
boards, so they are out of the weather and the ledgers along with my
bolts remains dry at all times. I inspect them from time to time and
even considered making some changes to that part of the cabin once I
learned better techniques, but my boards and bolts still look as clean
and new as the day I bolted them in place. 25 years of solid service, so
I have just left them as they are and believe it or not, it hasn't
sagged or collapsed as some here claim it should.
We get very
little snow here, so snow weights on my roof are a non factor really. If
you live some place where you get lots of snow, then by all means take
that into consideration. Obviously if you have the money and materials,
build it all to code. I'm not suggesting anyone build anything that is
not safe, so do not take my post the wrong way. All I am saying is his
building techniques might not be to government code, but they are good
enough for his structure and I believe that his building will last as
long as he does if maintained properly. Even the best built homes will
deteriorate and collapse if not maintained over time.
Reply 1 year ago
THIS is the type of advice I take seriously. Vets who know from EXPERIENCE. Thanks for sharing that.
Question 3 years ago on Step 9
I can't find any information about "hurricane studs." Are they serving the same purpose as hurricane ties?
Answer 1 year ago
i think there might be usable but i think the straps are better. especally in 2021 with enormase price of wood its about double 2019 price
Question 3 years ago on Step 4
Where's the material list, the length of the 4x4 posts for example
Answer 1 year ago
14 foot it was in the beginning when describing 4x4 14 i did not get the 14 at first untill i saw it was a pole type building0
Question 2 years ago
A complete list of building materials would be awesome. IM just wondering how much the lumber would be nowadays, since the ElectionVirus.
2 years ago on Step 1
Thank you , These plans are Great , perfect size for my 1 1/2 acres , Thanks 😊 C.M.
Tip 2 years ago on Introduction
Your dimensions are wonky on the first diagram. If someone wasn't familiar with construction this could be pretty confusing... Total length & total width, at least, are incorrect. 🙂👍 Enjoyed the article, regardless. Thanks!
Question 2 years ago on Introduction
I’m new to Instructables and I don’t know how to search so I was wondering if there is a material list anywhere so I can get a good idea of what it would actually cost these days based on COVID-19 lumber pricing.
Question 2 years ago
Do those bolts you used to attach the outer joists to the posts have the tensile strength to support the weight of the entire building?
Question 2 years ago on Introduction
Is there some way to get a detailed materials list so I could order the ma\terials all at once
3 years ago on Step 15
I was greatly disappointed that there weren't any instructions given/shown on window AND door installation. These would have been extremely helpful as would have Benin the instructions on how the loft over the porch was finished out.
The roof framing was pretty well done until it came time to show how to prepare the roof for the tin/aluminum roofing panels.
Thank you for the space to put this feedback in.
Question 4 years ago
The building code here limits sheds to 10x10 before it needs a permit. What would i need to do to shrink it?