Introduction: How to Make Deadpool Costume - Deadpool's Swords and Back Sheath

Hey Cosplayers, I'm Skyler Ostler and in today's Apprenticeship I'll be teaching you How to make Deadpool's Costume Swords and back sheath using PVC pipe and an off the shelf thermoplastic.

Step 1: Watch the Video Tutorial


Are you ready to make Deadpool's Swords and back sheath? DEADPOOL is READY? Uhh... ok, Let's get started!

Step 2: What You Will Need to Get Started

Full Materials List


- Rustoleum Metallic Silver Spray Paint

- Rustoleum Flat Black Spray Paint

- Rustoleum Clear Matte or Gloss Coat based on preference

- 35oz Tub of Polly Plastics/thermo plastic(You will use 1 cup(8 oz)

- Nylon Strapping

-Side release clips

-Faux leather


Full Tools List

- My Downloadable Template

- Heat Gun, Here is an inexpensive one I found on Amazon:

- Ruler

- Scotch Tape

- Towels/Heat Pads/ Gloves

- Pipe Cutter (optional)

- Sharpie/Pen/fine tip Marker

- Utility Knife

- Electric Sander/Dremel (Optional) This is the Rotary Tool I use:

- 80 grit sand paper

- 150 or 200 grit sand paper

- File

- Shaping Utensil (ex. Butter knife, wax Carving set, etc)

- mask

- 13x9 Cookie Sheet

- Rolling Pin or Pasta Maker

Step 3: Making the Blade and the Sheath

I have made a template that prints to scale, makes this build super easy, and it's available on my web store .

Begin by downloading and printing off your template.

I will be walking through the process of making 1 sword so just keep in mind you will repeat these steps and make a second katana.

Using the measurements provided in the template cut your 1/2" PVC pipe to length and mark out the handle.

We will be heating the PVC pipe to a little past the handle mark and flattening it like I showed in the Master Sword tutorial. I am using a heat box to heat my PVC but a heat gun and foil works just as well like I did in the Master Sword build.

When the PVC becomes pliable like a noodle it is ready, flatten it between two boards leaving the handle section hanging out.

If you have clamps it is helpful to use them in the flattening process.

Make sure to keep the handle level as it begins to cool so that it does not become deformed.

Once it has cooled for a second and the handle will move but is not flimsy, quickly pull the pipe and give it a gentle curve as well as check for straightness.

You can run under cool water when you have it and you should end up with a slightly curved blade like this

Draw on the tip tapering from the top corner down to about 1 1/4" or 3.175CM down the opposite edge of the blade and then continue on the reverse side marking that same taper.

Using your dremel, a sander, file, or razor blade cut along that line, reheat the tip and press the tip together like we did in the Master Sword build.

Now we need to create the sheath or SAYA to do a test fit before moving forward.

To do this, cut a piece of 1" PVC pipe down to size using the measurements in the template and heat and flatten it much like we just did for the blade but not as flat. Give it a subtle curve as well. The pipe looks brown here because I am using some scrap PVC that I had already painted previously. You can sand the edges down to make it more square or leave the rounded edges either will work.

Once you have the sword fitting inside, cap off the other end with some softened plastic.

Step 4: Making the Katana Guard (Tsuba) and Handle (Tsuka)

Next we will be adding the Katana Guard or Tsuba. Deadpool's Tsuba from the film are square.

We will be placing 2 TB of softened plastic at the handle line we marked earlier. Get it into a basic square shape it doesn't have to be perfect, let it cool, and then reaheating the surface we can smooth things out and make it more precise. If needs be you can use a razor blade to really clean up the corners like we did in the Han Solo Blaster build You want your square to match the dimensions in the template the best you can.

Next, onto Deadpool's handle or Tsuka roll out a sheet of plastic large enough to trace your A piece from the template onto it, I would recommend dyeing your plastic black for this piece to save time later but it is not necessary.

Cut out your A piece, heat it up and give it a wrap, and I don't mean a rap like Deadpool vs Boba Fett kind of rap, I'm talking wrapping the plastic around the Tsuka yo, try to keep up man.

Now listen up Haters, Deadpool's Swords are L for Legit so his Tsuka's are bazooka bomb crazy cool this is how they go down!

Trace the B piece from your template onto the Tsuka on the inside edge of the curve and transfer the marks on the B piece onto both sides on the Tsuka.

Then heat up the Plastic on the Tsuka and press in lines connecting the markings on either side all the way up the handle. This will really show all them Haters that Deadpool's swords are too cool for school, you know what I mean fool?

Ok, that is it for the first sword and because Deadpool is getting a little too wound up about how to make his swords, we're gonna give him a little break as we move onto the back sheath.

Step 5: Assembling the Back Sheath

Once more roll out about 1 cup of plastic into a large cookie sheet and Using Template pieces C,D,and E trace them

onto the plastic, once again I recommend dying the plastic black using Polly Plastics coloring pellets because it will make maintaining the paint job much easier.

With your pieces cut out, C will go between the sheaths, D on top of them, and E on top of D.

Let's jump in, make sure as you are attaching C to the sheaths that the sheaths run even with the corners of C as you can see here.

Flipping the bottom sword over in place with C, line it up and use some scrap pieces of Plastic to adhere the sheath to the C piece. It is important there is a gap that we can run the strap through later.


Deadpool... get outta here, don't you have somwhere to rob, or people to un-alive?

Sorry, back to the back sheath lay the other sheath on the opposite side of the C piece making sure the inside of the curve is facing in, mirroring the other blade and sheath.

Once more adhere with scrap sheet plastic. you may want to put something under the C piece to make sure it doesn't collapse as you heat the scrap pieces.

Next, Gently heat the D piece and stick the E piece ontop of it. Then heating up the plastic on the sheath attach The D and E combination to the top.

heat the surface of E gently and shape in an egraved line 1/4" in all around the piece, and some little squares on either side fo the octagon D piece.

Step 6: Strapping It All Together

Wahooo, now your done with the whoza-whatzit, now it's time for the strappy thingy!

In other words, lets put together the shoulder strap, begin by wrapping 1 1/2" Nylon webbing over your shoulder and down your side, mark the point where it meets at the bottom of your rib cage.

Cut the webbing a few inches longer than that mark and seal the edge with a flame to prevent freying and slide it through the gap between the bottom sword and C piece.

place the strap on to where it is comfortable and straight, remove the sheath leaving the strap exactly where it is and use scrap plastic to adhere it to the C piece so it won't move.

Then we will quickly make a shoulder strap, I used 2 x 4" lengths of Nylon webbing and a 4" x 11" piece of some faux leather i bought online.

Place the Nylon webbing spread evenly on the back of the faux leather and pin a 1/2" seam down around all edges, angling the corners in as you can see here.

Then sew along the seam, easy peasy. Slide it onto the shoulder strap and give it a test.

Next, take a 4" length of the nylon webbing and attach it to a female end of a side release clip.

Then take a 12" length of the webbing and sew a loop into it that can slide onto another piece of webbing

We are almost there, with the shoulder pad slid onto the strap, pin the ends together at the mark you made previously Then pin on the female clip piece underneath it and sew it all together nice and strong!

Add the male end....

Hehehehe, you said male end..

Deadpool, go eat a chimichanga or something, sheesh.

Sorry, thread the "other" side of the side release clip, on the 12" loop strap.

Slide the loop onto a belt, put on your sheaths and snap the clips together. Cinch it down and your done!

Step 7: Congrats: Virtual Pat on the Back!

Congrats!!! You did it!!!!! The apprenticeship is complete, now you know How to make Deadpool Costume Swords and Back Sheath

Give this thing a Legit Paint job, silver on the blades and flat black everywhere else with a clear coat and you'll be cooler than cool, you'll be DEADPOOL.

Make sure to get your template and start building today!

If you Liked this Tutorial maybe you will like some of my others:

Thanks again for watching! Like, Subscribe, and Cosplay on my Friend!