How to Make the Millennium Falcon Into the Memory Falcon and Bring Out 3D Print Detail

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Introduction: How to Make the Millennium Falcon Into the Memory Falcon and Bring Out 3D Print Detail

About: I'm a professional Engineer and a life long maker.

This project shows you how to turn a 3D sculpture into a desktop organizer.

Step 1: Watch the Video

Be sure to watch the video for additional information.

And check out my YouTube channel Id Rather Be Making for more projects.

Step 2: Get a Model to Modify

You can turn just about any 3D model (sculptures, castles, a cat, etc.) into a desktop organizer with these techniques.

For the model, I searched on Thingiverse and found Andrew Askedall’s Fillenium Malcon - Thing number 919475.

Andrew’s model had the advantage of printing all in one piece and it didn't need supports. This is something I wanted to continue in my remix of this well done model.

Step 3: Gather Your Memories and Measure Them

Get the items you want the organizer to hold (flash drives, pens, etc.) and measure them.

Step 4: Get 3D Builder - It's Free Too

If you have Windows 10, you might already have Microsoft's 3D builder installed. Just type in the search bar and see. If not, you can get it for free from the app store.

Step 5: Calibration/test Block

I didn't want to make all the changes to a model then print it and find out it didn't work, so I made a test block first. That way if I needed to make changes to the shapes that get subtracted from the main model, I could do so without wasting lots of time and PLA.

With the measurements you took in step 3, make shapes that represent the parts that will be inserted into your model.

To make the calibration part, make a large rectangular block and subtract the insert shapes from it.

To make the cut outs, select the part you want to be subtracted, click Edit then click Subtract. The highlighted part gets subtracted from its surroundings.

Step 6: Print and Test Fit

Print the calibration block using the same printing process you will use for your final model.

Test fit your parts. You might need to change the shapes of the parts you subtract from the main model.

The top of the USB slots sagged down a bit. I needed to add a chamfer to the top of the USB slots (because I didn't want to use supports). This made the shape self supporting when it printed.

Step 7: Modifying Your Model

Click here for a video of these steps.

In 3D Builder, open the model you want to modify.

Using the shapes you verified on the calibration block (or the dimensions of those shapes), subtract the shapes from the main model where you want to insert your memory sticks.

I tried to use natural lines in the model to hide smaller shapes like the micro SD cards.

The large green block represents USB flash drives and can fit into the front docking port.

Position your shape in the model. While it is selected, click Editthen click Subtractto make a cut out in the model.

Step 8: Integrating Your Modifications

I wanted the modifications to look like they were a part of the original model as much as I could. I placed the USB slots here between features in the model that I wanted to preserve.

To make these USB ports aligned in an arc, I inserted a cylinder in the model to use as a guide. To insert, left click Insert then Cylinder. Once done, just delete the cylinder.

Step 9: Save Your File

Once your done making all the mods you want, you are ready to get a printable file.

To make an STL file (or other format if you prefer), left click Menuthen select Save as. In the Save as drop down menu, select STL as the save as type. Then save the file.

Here you can download the files I made:

Step 10: Printer Settings

Click for a video of slicer settings.

Use your preferred slicer. I used Simplify 3D for printing the model.

The settings I used:

  • Layer height: 0.15 mm
  • Top/Bottom layers: 3
  • Perimeters: 3
  • Infill: 15%
  • Include a raft
  • No supports

Step 11: Print Your Model

Video of time lapse.

I used white PLA.

Right now the finished model looks bland and lacking many of the features that are present in the model.

Step 12: Applying Black Wash

Click for a video of this step: black wash mixing and application.

Black wash will bring out much of the finer details by concentrating in the crevasses when it dries.

Black wash ingredients:

  • 15 grams distilled water - tap water can cause mold
  • 15 grams matte fluid medium
  • 1.5 grams wetting agent
  • 5 drops of black ink

Mix the ingredients and apply with a small brush. You don't need to worry about being too uniform. Just spread it around on all sides. When it dries, lines in the model will get much darker than the surrounding areas bringing the detail out.

Step 13: Enhanced Detail

See the difference in detail between the freshly printed model and the black washed model.

Step 14: Insert Your Parts

Video of using the model.

Get your masterpiece ready for display.

Step 15: Enjoy

Place your finished model for all to see.

You can check out my YouTube channel for more projects, like the lamp you see above.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHc0u1FqAtwM7GTf4...

Let's connect

Now go make something.

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    4 Comments

    0
    Racer1TN
    Racer1TN

    1 year ago

    I've had to slice it, as it was 8 mm too tall for the MK3S. Sliced a 1/4 of it off the tail, came out perfect.

    0
    idratherbemaking
    idratherbemaking

    Reply 11 months ago

    That's good to hear. Send me a picture I'd like to see it.

    0
    Penolopy Bulnick
    Penolopy Bulnick

    1 year ago

    That's a neat idea altering the model and how you did the black wash :)

    0
    idratherbemaking
    idratherbemaking

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thanks I'm glad you liked it. I hope people use the idea on other models. I thought a castle might look good black washed. The key is finding a model with lots of crevices for the black wash to settle in.