Keepin' It Cool
Intro: Keepin' It Cool
STEP 1: Gather Materials
- 2 9v Batteries
- 1 9V snap connecter
- 1 12VDC Brushless Fan
- 2 220 ohms risitors
- Screw Driver Phillips head
- 8 Screws (23.73mm)L (2.71mm)W
- 8 nuts (6.24mm)
- 5 foot of 22 gage wire (60 inches)
- Paralax LM34 Temperature Sensor
- Paralax bread Board with minicontroller
- Paralax Basic Stamp program installed on computer
- Wielding Helment
- An Analog to digital transfer
- Power Drill
- 3/32 Drill bit
- 1 self leading wood drill bit 2â = 54mm
- Velcro
- Solder gun
- Solder wire
- 1 Roll of electrical tape
- Parallax Analog to Digital converter
STEP 2: Order Parts
- Buy a 3 inch 12VDC Cooling Fan from Radio Shack
- Parts may take a week to come in.
STEP 3: Download Basic Stamp Software
- It can be found at http://www.parallax.com/tabid/441/Default.aspx
- Download software according to which Operating system you have on your computer.
STEP 4: Drill Holes
- Also cut a vent hole with a 2â self leading bit, for fan to get circulation.
STEP 5: Mount Fan
- Once screws are in, secure the screw with a nut, so they remain in place.
STEP 6: Cut Holes for Board
- Cut the holes according the size of your board
STEP 7: Solder Wire to Temperature Sensor/9v Snap Connecter
- Then solder the wires of the snap connecter to a foot of 22 gage wire
- Wrap the connection with electrical tape
STEP 8: Mount Bread Board
- Once screws are in, secure the screw with a nut, so they remain in place.
STEP 9: Wire Up Everything
http://www.scribd.com/doc/35753337/44/ACTIVITY-1-TESTING-THE-LM34
-The PDF file will give you a diagram of the wiring needed for the use of the analog to digital transfer.
STEP 10: Plug in Sensor
-Plug the ground into VSS
-Plug the output into pin8
-For further help us the PDF file http://www.scribd.com/doc/35753337/44/ACTIVITY-1-TESTING-THE-LM34 use the diagram of the senor at the top of page 183 to help
STEP 11: Plug in Code
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
DigDataIn VAR Bit
ADC_DataIn VAR Byte
temp CON 255
LED PIN 0
DigIn PIN 8
ADC_CS PIN 13
ADC_Clk PIN 14
ADC_Dout PIN 15
OUTPUT LED
PAUSE 1000
DO
GOSUB ReadData
GOSUB PlotData
PAUSE 20
GOSUB run
PAUSE 500
LOOP
ReadData:
LOW ADC_CS
DigDataIn = DigIn
SHIFTIN ADC_Dout, ADC_Clk, MSBPOST, [ADC_DataIn\9]
HIGH ADC_CS
RETURN
PlotData:
DEBUG IBIN DigDataIn, CR
DEBUG "[", DEC ADC_DataIn, ",*,.0196]",CR
RETURN
run:
IF (DigDataIn > temp) THEN
HIGH 0
PAUSE 20
ENDIF
RETURN
12 Comments
audreyobscura 11 years ago
Kiteman 11 years ago
lean04 11 years ago
dooleyboi 11 years ago
bigbodysmallbrain 11 years ago
Toga_Dan 11 years ago
I might use pic 5 as the opening pic tho. It has better contrast. I opened this -ible without a clue from pic or title what it was about.
ironsmiter 11 years ago
Add a little 12 volt led lighting, and you're now a cyber-welding chainsaw wielder!
I applaud your efforts.
Not sure what they're teaching you there in Saint Charles Parish public schools, but soldering and safety don't seem to be high on the list ;-(
On the other hand, it LOOKS great!
Looks like that's a computer/electronics class, correct? Parallax is a useful tool, but unless using it is part of the assignment, consider using a slightly more dedicated set of circuits. maybe something like this(http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/ronj/ts.html)?
Now for anyone wanting to do this for WELDING... the simple answer is DO NOT DO IT.
Not only do we have the fume issues, but the spinning fan just made a massive opening in your helmet to let the UV radiation in. Even if it DOESN'T screw up your eyes... you're gonna have a nice circular spot of welders-sunburn on your chin.
And don't even get me started about the dangers of fans that close to our manly beards(well for some of us anyway)!
Finally, there's the issue of random loose wiring and EXPOSED CIRCUIT BOARDS to deal with.
fretted 11 years ago
I've been welding for years i could see me welding galvanized tread plate with this fan on NOT ! actually i founfd the best way to stay cool is a wet welding bandana lol
This would be an awesome fan for a costume though i've got a wizards costume i swelter in passing out candy this would be great might try it on that !
Kiteman 11 years ago
(And can you please turn that introduction image around on your PC, then re-upload it?)
DonRibble 11 years ago
I think I know what you were getting at here Kiteman, it seems the fan is pulling air from your working area and blowing it onto the users face, which would be directing all of those harmful gases from the torch and heating metal directly into your lungs -_- I would definitely turn the fan around so it would pull air from behind the wearer's head and out the front, keeping air moving at all times
or better yet, install it how it is, spacing it from the front of the mask inwards half an inch, don't cut a hole.. instead make some ducting so that it pulls air along the inside of the helmet, from behind the head.
Kiteman 11 years ago
batman96 11 years ago
One last thing that everybody should know, a temperature sensor is way over doing it, it would be annoying kicking on and off, and it's expensive. Just stick a 9 Volt battery and a switch in there.
By the way it is a great Idea, those helmets do get hot, I just think there are some safety issues that need to be fixed.