Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)




Introduction: Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

About: Avid 3D printer builder, currently completing my 3rd printer design. If you like what you see and maybe even implement what provide, consider supporting subscribing to my youtube channel…

When I wanted to build my own first printer, I of course went with the Prusa I3 design. I joined a Makerspace so I could print the components to make it.

Turns out, Makerspace 3D printers are fickle and down an awful lot. So instead of printing a 3D printer I decided to Laser cut my first printer. In effect I’m using the laminate printer method to create an FDM printer.

The embedded video will give you an impression of what components are made up of.

You can download the entire model at:

All components can be laser cut using 12x28 inch Acrylic sheet (3mm thick).

In this instructable I will not go into the wiring of the Ramps 1.4 setup. That is covered in the followup instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

I've tried to accompany most steps with images in each of the majors steps. If you get lost in the words, look at the images in the sequence their presented.

Step 1: Materials

Throughout the instructable I call out what parts and in what quantities you need them. Here is the entire list of materials that link to their source.

M3 hex socket srew 6mm

M3 hex socket srew 8mm

M3 hex socket srew 10mm

M3 hex socket srew 14mm

M3 hex socket srew 20mm

M3 hex socket srew 25mm

M4 hex socket srew 10mm

M4 hex socket srew 40mm

5/16 threaded rod home depot)

5/16 Nuts home depot)

Acrylic from McMaster Car 6 sheets of 12"x24''

SCS8UU Linear Motion Ball Bearing

LM8UU Linear Ball Bearing

Bed spring leveling components

Flexible Shaft Couplings 5mm to 8mm

2-Pack - Linear Motion Rod 8 mm x 406mm Shaft

Nema 17 1.7A (5 pack)


Gt2 Timing belt pulley 20 teeth

Printer Bed

Torsion springs

MK8 mount

Mk8 Extruder

Gt2 Timing belt

Disclaimer: I am Amazon affiliate. If you do want to support the work I put in these instructables, please purchase parts through these links. I make a few bucks, at most. Thx.

Step 2: Laser Cut the Components

All of the items used as laminates to this printer are using 3mm acrylic, cut out of sheets of 12” x 24” 1/8" thick

I purchased the acrylic from McMaster Car (item 8505K127 at $14.27/sheet)

The design comes with 3 DXF files. You will have to go through whatever steps it takes to setup your Laser Cutter to properly cut. Remember cut small holes prior to the big parts to prevent displacement.

Laser cut each DXF twice to get to the proper amount of layers needed.

It looks like a lot of stuff, but once that laser starts cutting you can sit back, relax and enjoy the light show (Don't look directly at the laser).

Step 3: Assemble Frame

The frame was designed to be 2 layers thick and was cut in half to accommodate the Acrylic sheet of 12”x24”. The two halves are kept together with the smaller pieces.

  • Rectangles on top
  • Bottom items will speak for themselves.

For the connectors use M3 hex socket screws, 20mm and nut

For Laminates only use M3 hex socket screws, 8mm and nut

The supports that hold up the frame consists of 2 laminates each. One side has more holes in it, which can be used optionally to attach the electronics. Pick a side if you choose to do so.

The supports slide into the frame and are connected with screws and nuts that fit in the cross shapes cavities.

Use 20mm screws for the support connectors.

At this point you can also add the 320mm 5/16 screw rod with bolts, although it might need to move back or forth depending on your Y axis.

Step 4: Assemble Y-Axis Rail

The Y-axis represents the bed and frame that moves the bed from back to front. This component contains both laser cut laminates as well as quite a bit of hardware.

  • m3 25mm screw/nut for idler (1x)
  • m3 8mm screw/nut for idler and belt clamp (12x)
  • m3 10mm screw/nut for Name Clamp (4x)
  • m3 6mm for Nema 17 motor (4x)
  • m3 16mm screw/nut to connect Idler brackets and Z-Axis connector (6x)
  • Bed leveling spring components (4x)
  • Linear Rod 406mm (2x)
  • 5/16 threaded rod 440mm (2x)
  • 5/16 nuts (16x)
  • SCS8UU Linear Motion Ball Bearing (3x)
  • Linear Motion Rod 8 mm x 406mm Shaft (2x)
  • Nema 17 Stepper Motor (1x)
  • Gt2 Timing belt pulley 20 teeth (1x)
  • Nema 17 Corner Bracket (1x)
  • Idler (1x)
  • m4 40mm/nuts to connect the belt connectors (2x)
  • bed spring leveling components (4x)
  • m4 10mm screws to connect bed frame to bearings (12x)
  • Printer bed 220mmx220mm (heated or not)
  • GT2 Timing Belt Torsion Spring
  • GT2 Timing Belt

First assemble the front plates by connecting them with the 4 8mm screws (on 4 corners).

Do the same for the back plates and add the Idler bracket with 2 16mm Scews/nuts

Add the smooth rods to the back end

Add screw rods with 4 bolts on each rod that go between the front and back plates

Add the SCS8UU Linear Motion Ball Bearing onto the linear rods

Add Front plates and put bolts on the outside.

Add Idler between the idler brackets with the 25mm screw/nut

Add the Name 17 motor with 4 6mm screws

Add the gt2 20 teeth pulley to the motor shaft and visually line it up with the idler before fastening

Step 5: Assemble Y-Axis Bed

Add the bed frame to the three linear bearings using 12 m4 10mm Also add the 2 m4 40mm screws to the center of the bed frame

Stack the 10 belt connector plates with the two laminates that have the holes for the belt at the bottom.

When attaching the timing belt, run it around the Name 17 wheel and Idler (on the opposite end) and it through the provided holes on the bed connector, from the top with the teeth down. When folding over the teeth should meet each other.

Clamp the the two together with the small clamps with 2 8mm screws and nuts.

When attaching the second end of the belt, add the little clamps but don't tighten them until you've tightened the belt.

Any additional tightening can be done with additional torsion springs.

Once the belt is added you can add the bed on top of the bed frame with the Bed Spring leveling components.

At this point the construction of the Y Axis is completed.

Step 6: Assemble X Axis

The X axis will support the extruder and move from left to right. There is a lot of laminates involved with this axis as each end needs to glide over the Z-axis and support the rods for the X-axis.

The following hardware is needed for the X axis

  • m3 30mm screw/nut for to connect Nema Laminates to Nema Motor and connect Idler end (13x)
  • M4 6mm screws to connect bed Extrusion Bracket to Bearings (6x)
  • Linear Motion Rod 8 mm x 406mm Shaft (2x)
  • Nema 17 Stepper Motor (1x)
  • Gt2 Timing belt pulley 20 teeth (1x)
  • Idler (1x)
  • GT2 Timing Belt Torsion Spring
  • GT2 Timing Belt

  • All metal MK8 bracket

Unlike the Y Axis, the 8 mm rods will need to be cut to length to fit between the The two leadscrews. The space available form them to between is 340mm. Don't cut the rods any longer as it won't fit. You can cut them a little shorter (1 to 5mm) to be safe. You can always pad the socket to make it fit.

There are two ends to this axis, one I refer to as the Nema End (which will hold a Nema Stepper motor) and the Idler End which only support the Gt2 timing belt and an idler.

The laminates specific to the Nema End can be recognized by the large hole with 4 holes next to them.

The laminates specific to the idler end can be recognized by 5 screw holes and lack of large hole for nema.

Each end fits together like and lock each other in place. Arrange and connect the pieces together as seen in the image. The main body has 9 layers.

  1. Connect the 7 bottom layers first. The square Gap on top will fit the assembles Slider component.
  2. The Slider component has 19 layers. Align the 16 pieces that can fit around the LM8UU bearings.
  3. There is a similar piece with a smaller hole at the bottom that lock in the bearings from the bottom.
  4. On top you first place the piece with the Hexagonal hole (that will fit around a nut)
  5. On top of that the laminate with 2 8 mm holes.
  6. This entire assembly will fit inside the gap of pieces from step 1
  7. Finally cap off the main body with the two remaining big laminates that will lock in the slider piece.
  8. Insert the 4 screws around the Nema hole and connect the Nema.
  9. Insert 2 more screws in the remaining holes to tighten the laminates.

Repeat these steps for the Idler end. Make sure that on top of the first layer you put the actual idler (use something like a tooth pick to keep it in place while you lay on the other layers.

At this point the 3 bearing block can be added to the linear rods and inserted into both End components.

In the case of my build I used an full metal angle bracket to hold a MK8 extruder. Should you choose to use a different type of extruder and or connector the following steps maybe different for your build.

The angle bracket use will connect to three Bearing blocks and is available from AlieExpress

There is a variant on Amazon that connects to only 2 bearing blocks, but is similar in the build.

connect the mount to the bearing blocks and insert two 25mm m3 screws around which the Timing belt is mounted.

When attaching the timing belt, run it around the Name 17 wheel and Idler (on the opposite end) and around the screws extruding in the back of the extruder mount. When folding over the teeth should meet each other.

Clamp the the two together with the small clamps with 2 8mm screws and nuts. When attaching the second end of the belt, add the little clamps but don't tighten them until you've tightened the belt. Any additional tightening can be done with additional torsion springs.

At this point the entire X axis is completed and it can be mounted on the Z-Axis in the next step.

Step 7: Assemble Z Axis (both) and Mount the X Axis.

AT this point the entire frame, the Y Axis and X axis are completed and at this point we can construct both Z-axis on which we mount the X-axis (need completion of this first.

Hardware needed

  • M3 8mm screws (8x)
  • M3 25mm screws/nuts (8x)
  • m3 14mm screws/nuts (4x)
  • Linear Motion Rod 8 mm x 310mm Shaft (2x)
  • 5/16 threaded rod 320mm (2x)

First stack 3 mount fillers and attach the Nema Corner Bracket to the frame (do this for both sides).

Add 2 layers of Nema Brackets on top of the Corner Bracket (slide into gap in frame) attach with 14mm Screw/nut

Attach the Nema Stepper motors with 8 8mm screws

Attach the 5mm to 8mm couplers to the Nema shaft

The next steps will be a bit of a balancing act. You can choose to either:

add the screw rod and linear rods into the X axis assembly and delicately place all 4 rods into their appropriate places

Add the rods into place (won't be sturdy but can hold if careful) and slide on the X axis assembly.

Before adding the X axis assembly add the nuts to each screw rod (somewhere in the middle preferably same height).

Add the Adjustable Z-End stop assembly which consists of 4 lamites that fit over the linear rod

The adjustable component is a 45mm screw, thumb nut and a ball pen spring

Cap the assembly off with the Top laminates that hold all 4 rods into place, attached to the Frame.

The next step will discuss adding the Y Axis assembly

Step 8: Adding the Y Axis Assembly to the 3D Printer

At this point the only thing missing is attaching the completed Y assembly to the Main Printer assembly

Take the Y Axis assembly and place it inside the frame.

Make sure the two bolts on each rod are opened and on each side of the frame.

Lift the Y Axis assembly in on an angle do the extruding screw rods go underneath the screw rod on the frame

Once in place tighten the bolts. Make sure the back plate of the Y axis assembly touches the screw rod in the back of frame.

The final step is to attach the laminate clamps around the Screw bar and onto the Y axis assembly.

All that is left is to attach the MK8/MK7 Extruder and end stops.

Little secret: the endstop are all attached with hot glue. Up and running for 4 years and no issues.

Step 9: Conclusion

So there you have it. My very first printer build all laid out for you to build. This printer has been up and running for some 4 years now and never caused me any issues. It printed the first parts of my Bigger CoreXY printer but still acts as my backup printer.

Following components part of this design were re-used/repurpased from 3rd party designs. Here is the list of used designs:

Nema 17 Corner Bracket:

MK7 Extruder:

Timing Pulley GT2 (20 teeth, 5mm bore):

Micro Switch




If you liked this check out my other instructables or visit my website at

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    Question 6 months ago

    Hy, I don't know a lot about 3D printing yet but looks like an amazing design indeed. But I feel like I'm a little late. This post is now 4 years old. I have no idea how far the technology of 3D printing has developed in the past few years but is this design still up to date? Should there be made some changes/ upgrades or is it better to go with a new design? Which do you recommend?

    I am also able to cut the components out of aluminum plates. This may be an irrelevant question but is this a good idea or should I stick with acrylic. I know davidbitton asked 4 years ago if carbon fiber would work and that was no problem, so I assume aluminum would be no problem either.

    Thanks for reading (sorry if my questions are a little too long)
    Love your design. Can't wait building it!


    Reply 5 months ago

    this printer is about as basic as it can get, and I would recommend only building it, for the fun of building it. The most basic and cheap printers on Amazon probably have more features. my later printers (especially my last) are more up to date with newer/better hardware and more recent 32bit board (2 years). Not a whole lot has changed since that one (different nozzles and extruders, but the BondTech is still my favorite). Cutting it in aluminum may or may not work. The thickness of the aluminum would have to match that of acrylic (due to the peg/groove connections between the parts)


    1 year ago on Step 6

    For some reason the x axis linear rods are too long to fit in the frame, can I cut them shorter to fit the frame?


    Reply 1 year ago

    If you left them at 406mm (16 inch) then yes. That was the length they sold them at (at the time). The rods for the X-axis need to be cut to size to approximately 340mm (possibly cut maybe 1 or 2 mm shorter to it won't bind). I'll look back to the step for the X-axis and add "Cut to length" to it.


    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you for your quick response, thats what i did just wanted to be sure.
    also great design !


    1 year ago

    1) where should we put GT2 torsion spring?
    2) how long LM8UU ?


    Reply 1 year ago

    Mine doesn't use the tension springs but if you do put them on, the spring should go in a location where when traveling the bed or extruder it needs to be able to meet both sides (i.e. the spring cannot run over the pulleys.

    The link to the LM8UU are the correct ones (24mm). each side has two of them (you're showing the lm8Luu L for long). Those aren't the ones I use.


    2 years ago

    Can you plz tell me the Printing capacity??


    Reply 2 years ago

    if by capacity you mean volume, it's 200mmx200mmx200mm


    Reply 2 years ago

    Can u plz show the working of this printer,,(just share a object pic done with this printer)


    Reply 2 years ago

    huh, this printer was built 5 years ago, prior to my online presence so there's not much of it at work. Here's a link of it at work (non-printer related, Here's one were I had it working at the Milwaukee Maker Faire in 2018 (printed the Julia vase).


    2 years ago

    Hey Core3D, thanks for this great design! I'm looking to fit Prusa's new MK52 bed in this frame. With a size of 264x254mm, it should fit, I measured the inside of the frame to be 280mm across. It has the same hole spacing as the heated bed you used, so it should be compatible, right?


    Reply 2 years ago

    Physically the bed would fit between the frame, but the travel room in the current setup will prevent the nozzle from reaching the edges on the bed on the X-axis. The same goes for the Y-Axis. the Y-Axis is easy to remedy by using longer rods (and belt) on the Y-axis. On the X-Axis there is however not much travel to gained, other then widening the frame and getting longer X axis rods.


    2 years ago

    Hi Core3D! Thank you for the great design.
    I have decided to make this 3D printer and have laser cut the pieces but there seem to be some error in design, maybe I am missing something.
    The issue is between frame and supports, support pieces have 5 teeth that go into cutouts on frame but frame only has 4 holes.
    Am I missing something? What would be the best solution for this, cut out the holes on the frame or shave of the teeth on support pieces?


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks for that. You are correct, I'm looking at it right now, my model in fusion 360 shows the same error. On my end I will put out an updated frame dxf with the missing holes. The best solution would be to add the hole to the frame but if you've already cut everything the easiest would to be file/cut off the tabs. The screw is still there so it will hold the supports in place. I apologize for the inconvenience.


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks for update. I cut off the tabs on the support piece.


    Thank you so much for your instructable! I was able to construct this 3D printer for a class at my college. For the enclosure I used another instructable, "DIY 3D Printer Enclosure".

    3D Printer.jpg

    Reply 2 years ago

    That is so awesome. I gives me great pleasure to see some of my work implemented. I hope you got a great grade.


    Reply 2 years ago

    Absolutely! I may have gone a little above and beyond the scope of the class, so yeah, with your help it was an excellent grade!


    2 years ago

    Hey, do the tolerances allow to build this in 3mm acrylic and with metric threaded rods? Would be nice, as imperial hardware is pretty expensive here in Germany ;)