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Core3D

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Avid 3D printer builder, currently completing my 3rd printer design. If you like what you see and maybe even implement what provide, consider supporting me on Patreon.com: https://www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech follow me on twitter at @Core3D_tech

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    that hasn't happened to me so I can't be certain. Certainly doesn't sound right. Here's a link with what sounds like an issue similar to yours (with some things to try) https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/39mzvb/help_ramps_board_makes_arduino_stop_working/

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  • 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    you will find 2020 (and 2040) versions of the linear actuators (X and Y) and the Z axis in GrabCad. https://grabcad.com/library/lead-screw-driven-linear-rail-double-1https://grabcad.com/library/linear-actuator-14At the center of the current design is how every "wraps" and leans on the PSU which is 50mm in height. by going with 2020 or 3030 you will either come short or create gaps where the rail is supposed to meet the PSU.All of that said, meanwell now has a PSU that is 30mm in height, so the current design using 3030 should work with that PSU https://amzn.to/329w3owHere's a link to bare 3030 extrusion: https://grabcad.com/library/3030-aluminum-extrusion-profile-1#!

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    huh, this printer was built 5 years ago, prior to my online presence so there's not much of it at work. Here's a link of it at work (non-printer related https://youtu.be/-VRpsYokLko), Here's one were I had it working at the Milwaukee Maker Faire in 2018 (printed the Julia vase). https://youtu.be/PzPZnWx_vdc.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever C3Dt/n
    3D Printer Cantilever C3Dt/n

    I have not put out an instructable for my CoreXY as I think there's some other really good open source designs out there. At the East Coast Rep Rap festival I had my booth next to the Rail Core II designer. Mechanically his, I believe, is better than mine. https://railcore.org/

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    if by capacity you mean volume, it's 200mmx200mmx200mm

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  • Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    You'll have to be more specific. I don't know what "hotend 1 shift to fan" means

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  • 3D Printer Cantilever 2.0 C3Dt/c

    if one of your axis is moving in the wrong direction, you'll have to invert the direction in the firmware. In your configuration.h you'll find // Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.#define INVERT_X_DIR false#define INVERT_Y_DIR false#define INVERT_Z_DIR falsein your case you'll need to swap the INVERT_Y_DIR to the opposite of what it currently is (true to false/false to true). Upload your firmware and try again.

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  • 3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)

    Two things would come to mind: -The dual rails with ball screw would come to 6 rails and 3 VERY long ball screws. It would cost a fortune. Technically you can probably get away with one rail and one balls screw. -The motors would take up a ton of work as steps per mm would most likely increase by a lot.It would make for a much more accurate implementation. The current belts at 4 meters per tower can cause flex/bounce. I met these guys at MRRF and they are doing some very interesting stuff with high pitch ball screw only, implementation https://www.facebook.com/3DDistributed

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  • Build Your Own C3Dt/dz 3D Printer

    That's absolutely awesome. Please do share when your done. Good Luck!!

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  • Upgrade 3D Printer Heated Bed to 110V

    you can custom order. Simply send them an email with what you need ("I like the one from your store but instead of 110V I want 24V"). They'll get back to you with a new price and an order form with your specs. The custom price is very close to the store price of similar product. I can't help you if you think $80 is too high. Remember this is one of those parts that could burn your house down. I wouldn't go too cheap on that.

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  • Upgrade 3D Printer Heated Bed to 110V

    yes, you can custom order these beds at keenovo at 12/24/110 and 240V at about the same price as they sell their stock ones. The last printer I designed (https://www.instructables.com/Build-Your-Own-C3Dtdz-3D-Printer/) I ordered a custom 24V bed. of course it takes longer to heat up but it works fine after that. Simply go to one of the keenovo ebay offerings and send them a message with the specs your looking for (voltage/wattage/dimensions and location of wiring. you can also go directly to https://keenovo.store/ (btw, I am NOT affiliated with Keenovo but have their product on most of my printers).

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  • 3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)

    Awesome, good luck with that. Post pictures when you're done with it. I might see it at a Maker Faire near you

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  • 3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)

    yes

    the asterix is behind 3 Rail Blocks. This instructable however doesn't cover the moveable bed.

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  • Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    This is about as close as I can get with my camera

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  • 3D Printer the C3Dt/bd (Big Delta)

    They are available now. 16 left in stock when I click on the link

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.0
    Connecting BLTOUCH to KFB2.0

    I just setup my BLTOUCH Smart v2.0 with Marlin 02.00.05 and I update the configuration step to reflect the changes. It does work again.

    This was written 2 years ago so I won't have that firmware anymore and it would have been seriously outdated. I will try to recreate this today with Marlin 2.0.x and I'll let you know. Please be aware that whateven I do with the Firmware won't match your printer, just the BLTOUCH behavior

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    Physically the bed would fit between the frame, but the travel room in the current setup will prevent the nozzle from reaching the edges on the bed on the X-axis. The same goes for the Y-Axis. the Y-Axis is easy to remedy by using longer rods (and belt) on the Y-axis. On the X-Axis there is however not much travel to gained, other then widening the frame and getting longer X axis rods.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever C3Dt/n
    3D Printer Cantilever C3Dt/n

    I use an SN-28B crimper something like this one https://amzn.to/2vuXSdh (af)

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  • Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Yes, I just looked into the pins files. There's very little in there compared to MKS_GEN_L. if you're using TMC2130 like in one of my instructables you'll still have to redirect the (based on how I used the pins).#ifndef X_CS_PIN #define X_CS_PIN 44#endif#ifndef Y_CS_PIN #define Y_CS_PIN 64#endif#ifndef Z_CS_PIN #define Z_CS_PIN 40#endif#ifndef E0_CS_PIN #define E0_CS_PIN 42#endif

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  • Build Your Own C3Dt/dz 3D Printer

    You can install 2.0. It seems there's now also a pins_biqu_KFB2.h. I tried the very early releases of 2.0 (many months ago) and ran into stealthchop issues but I believe these have been resolved. I've moved on to the 32bit SKR1.3/1.4 for my newer printers so maybe you can do the instructable on LED and wifi on KFB.

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  • Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    funny you should ask: https://www.instructables.com/Connecting-BLTOUCH-to-KFB20/

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    Thanks for that. You are correct, I'm looking at it right now, my model in fusion 360 shows the same error. On my end I will put out an updated frame dxf with the missing holes. The best solution would be to add the hole to the frame but if you've already cut everything the easiest would to be file/cut off the tabs. The screw is still there so it will hold the supports in place. I apologize for the inconvenience.

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  • Generic Linear Actuator With Built-in Tension Spring

    Sorry to disappoint. I hope that this instructable will at least have widened your understanding of "linear Actuator". Here's Misumi's lineup. https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/mech/M0100000000/M0118000000/

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  • Generic Linear Actuator With Built-in Tension Spring

    Wikipedia: A linear actuator is an actuator that creates motion in a straight line, in contrast to the circular motion of a conventional electric motor. This would be the "mechanical" kind: Mechanical[edit]Main article: Mechanism (engineering)A mechanical actuator functions to execute movement by converting one kind of motion, such as rotary motion, into another kind, such as linear motion.I'd say the entire unit fits that definition

    The Z axis hasa a 2040 implementation here https://www.instructables.com/Linear-Screw-Double-Rail/That said, the entire printer is designed around the PSU which is 50mm high. going with 2020 will not fit around this particular PSU

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  • Generic Linear Actuator With Built-in Tension Spring

    I believe I have the z axis in 2020 as well. I’m showing at a Faire today but I’ll double check. I thought I had added the 2040 implementation for z

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  • Core3D's instructable Build Your Own C3Dt/dz 3D Printer's weekly stats:
    • Build Your Own C3Dt/dz 3D Printer
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  • Build Your Own C3Dt/dz 3D Printer

    All the STL files and links to all products are present. You can shop around for cheaper parts of course

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  • Build Your Own C3Dt/dz 3D Printer

    I personally like building them more but if you want to 3D print you might as well buy one. You can get a nice Prusa for less than what I spent here or a nice RailCore II 300ZL for about the same.

    Thx, lot's of practice. I try to make a point that every printer I design is worked out in Fusion 360 first. I've been at it for a few years now. You can check out and download some of my cad work on Grabcad https://grabcad.com/core3d.tech-1/models

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  • Build Your Own C3Dt/dz 3D Printer

    It can be done for less. The Linear rails I use are very high end. Like I said in the instructable. Just, swapping out THK for cheap ones on Amazon will save you hundreds. I've had bad experience with both the cheaper rails and knock off bondtech so I try to avoid those. The BuildTak flex plate is an awesome feature but it will print without. I did not set out to make a cheap printer but if you search, even this one can be one. Check out the rest of my instructables there are cheaper ones (and more expensive ones too ;-))

    From the pictures it seems to have all the axis in place. Not sure if the motors are compatible with the current controller boards but those too can be replaced.

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  • Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    Glad it worked out for you. Happy to have helped. On my CoreXY I had the KFB2.0 (I just changed to SKR 1.3) and I did use it to operate the controller fans as well. It would kick on as soon as power was sent to any of the motors (drivers). I use the HEATER1 output for this purpose. In configuration_adv.h I turn on USE_CONTROLLER_FAN/** * Controller Fan * To cool down the stepper drivers and MOSFETs. * * The fan will turn on automatically whenever any stepper is enabled * and turn off after a set period after all steppers are turned off. */#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN#if ENABLED(USE_CONTROLLER_FAN) #define CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN 7 // Set a custom pin for the controller fan #define CONTROLLERFAN_SECS 120 // Duration in seconds for the fan to run after all motors are disabled #def…

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    Glad it worked out for you. Happy to have helped. On my CoreXY I had the KFB2.0 (I just changed to SKR 1.3) and I did use it to operate the controller fans as well. It would kick on as soon as power was sent to any of the motors (drivers). I use the HEATER1 output for this purpose. In configuration_adv.h I turn on USE_CONTROLLER_FAN/** * Controller Fan * To cool down the stepper drivers and MOSFETs. * * The fan will turn on automatically whenever any stepper is enabled * and turn off after a set period after all steppers are turned off. */#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN#if ENABLED(USE_CONTROLLER_FAN) #define CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN 7 // Set a custom pin for the controller fan #define CONTROLLERFAN_SECS 120 // Duration in seconds for the fan to run after all motors are disabled #define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED 255 // 255 == full speed#endifI used pins_MKS_GEN_L (BOARD_MKS_GEN_L), in it I defined: //// Heaters / Fans//// Power outputs EFBF or EFBE#define MOSFET_D_PIN 7#include "pins_RAMPS.h"Hope this helps

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  • Adding Parts Cooling Fan to Your 3D Printer

    I found this link on the Airwolf website that shows where to connect the parts cooling fan (Dual Fan Hot end only). Here's the link loo at the image under "6) Hot End and Heated Bed Wiring Diagram:" Fan2 is where the parts cooling fan is connected.https://airwolf3d.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/5000652262-hd-rambo-detailed-wiring-diagramHere's a link that discusses setup the fan. You'll have to update the configuration_adv.hhttps://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/11804Like I said, I don't have the specific board, so I'm working blind but I hope these links point you in the right direction

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  • Adding Parts Cooling Fan to Your 3D Printer

    I'm sorry, that would be tough, I don't have a Rambo Board and have never worked with one. Most of these different board work on the same principals. Where do you get stuck (hardware/software)?

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    That is so awesome. I gives me great pleasure to see some of my work implemented. I hope you got a great grade.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever C3Dt/n
    3D Printer Cantilever C3Dt/n

    The Linear Rails I've been using have hole spacing of 15mm x20mm spacing. Many rails come with 20mm x 20mm spacing. I've uploaded HotendAdapter_2020.stl and LinearAdapterY 20x20.stl (Step 8) for these rails.

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  • Laminated 3D Printer (from Laser Cut Parts Only)

    Also the following company sells pre-cut laminates based on this design and they seem to use 3mm acrylic. Not sure they ever tested this out (I hope they would have) http://store.thingibox.com/en/laser/400-3mm_laminated_3D_printer.html

    That's a tough one. Some of the laminated pieces are stacked 17 high. 17x0.175 is enough to add up to entire extra layer of 3mm acrylic (which is how you might get away with it). I looked at some of the interlocking piece of the X axis and they would support 3mm. Those gaps where the frame interlocks use 6.5mm holes with would leave 0.5mm wiggle room (might be much).

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    • Chain-able LED Strips for 3D Printers (or Decor)
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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Building a 3D Printer
    Building a 3D Printer

    Feel free to send me an email @ admin@core3d.tech or message me through this site. Also there are several facebook groups dedicated to desinging/building 3D Printers. Here's are a few I belong to https://www.facebook.com/groups/cncbuilddesign/ or https://www.facebook.com/groups/advanced3dprinter

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  • Wiring the KFB2.0 3D Printer Controller

    I'm not familiar with the pins_KFB_2.h you are using (it's not present in my Marlin 2.0). I do see a pins_BIQU_KFB_2.h in Marlin 2.0 but in my earlier versions (marlin 1.9) I've used MKS_GEN_L.h. Try using the the pins_BIQU_KFB_2.hadd #define PS_ON_PIN 19 in it(also change whatever else you changed)make sure you change configuration.h to have:#ifndef MOTHERBOARD #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_KFB_2#endif

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4
    Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    The power source in this printer actually uses (ring connectors) and the power unit is covered but, you are correct. This was the very first printer I built (over 5 years ago) when forks and ferrules were barely on the radar. All my subsequent printer designs here use forks and ferrules.

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable 3D Printer Cantilever C3Dt/n
    3D Printer Cantilever C3Dt/n

    I designed the "insert" that holds the KFB board specially for the KFB. Something else would need be designed. demensionally Duet would fit but it is particular about cooling (airflow underneath the board to cool the TMC chips). Also If you're going with Duet this printer design might be a bit minimalistic (for the price of a Duet).

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    • Duet Integrated Camera Remote for TimeLapse Video
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  • That was bugging me too. I'm currently redoing my kitchen so I had the master electrician have a look at my printer. His reasoning that the silicone bed doesn't have a ground wire is because, well it's entirely covered in silicone and thus the solder ends aren't exposed, it should be safe (enough). That said, he did mention it be good to connect a ground wire from the ground on the inlet to the printers frame (and if there's no metal connection between the metal bed (to which the silicone is glued) and the frame, I think this video covers most of those bases (including a gfci outlet) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uS65mTojewc

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  • Nothing in the wiring changes, whether you use or don't use SD card. You still need to wire as seen above. It just so happens SD card uses same signal pins as tmc (and some claim it creates issues, which I have yet to experience).

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  • The length of the x-axis is dictated by the frame. It is as wide as it is and can't really change (unless you go with different frame). The length of the Y axis is dictated by how long you cut your linear rods and can be as long as you like them to be. It needs a minimum of 420mm to accommodate full coverage of the bed, but if you want to go nuts you could create a bed with a X=210mm and Y=1200mm. As along as the length of the linear rods/51/6th rods and belt can manage there is no imposed limit on Y.

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  • I cut these with a metal hand saw. Just make sure you clamp them in a way that doesn't damage surface or thread (I put two would blocks in my vice).

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  • Core3D commented on Core3D's instructable Wiring 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4

    USB and PSU are two different power inputs to the board. The USB will fire up board but is only 5V and has no juice to run any motors (barely enough to light up LCD). RAMPs Board itself has 2 12 volt inputs 5A and 11A. Make sure you connected the + and - wires side by side and did not inadvertently use the + from 11A and the - from 5A. It could also be that one of the fuses behind the 11A and/or 5A is triggered. use your VOM to check of neither of these are interupted.

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  • I can't speak for your A8M issues. I'm sure there's an ANet community on facebook that might be able to help you. If you choose to replace your current board on the ANet with a KFB2.0, you will have to install the Marlin firmware yourself (http://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html). These boards don't come with stock firmware. You don't need a USBASP to configure the KFB 2.0. They have their own USB connection though which you can upload marlin (via something like Arduino IDE). I mention in the instructable that that you either select BOARD_MKS_GEN_L or BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB as the board. You subsequently have to configure marlin according to the specs of the ANet. There might already be an A8 configuration.h sample present in the sample configurations

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  • I used most of the original I3 plans but since I did some redesign I can gaurantee absolute compatibility. distance between screw and rod (holes) are 19.4mm. Distance from rods to frame about 37.4mm. You can download the entire design from grabcad.com https://grabcad.com/library/laminated-prusa-i3-printer-1 for all the exact specs

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  • Thx, It'll be tough to top this one next year at MRRF, but I'll try nonetheless.

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  • Thank you. I appreciate that. This feedback makes all the hard work even more worthwhile.

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  • Than you, I can now print giant trophies and keep em for myself ;-)

    Thank you, that's what I aimed for. I believe Form should be up there with function.

    The software is described in step 19. It comes free with the hardware (duet WiFi). Their setup documentation is excellent.

    Thank you! no categories of contest that lines up with this printer this time. My last Printer https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printer-Cantilever-20-C3Dtc/ did end up as runner up in one of the contests. (Smaller and way more affordable)

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  • As long as the steppers (your motors are most likely stepper motors, not servos) move the right direction while printing it should be good. For my last printer, I created videos, including the wiring and software settings. Their specific to the C3Dt/c but in many aspects similar to any other "simple" printer

    Not unheard of. Servos would be nice but incredibly expensive and a bit harder to control with existing hardware

    If you are using a heated bed, you need to turn on the TEMP_SENSOR_BED=1 (currently 0).I also noticed your #define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0 (should most likely be 1.75)Are you using all the MAX_ENDSTOPS? In the instructable this is all MIN_ENDSTOPS

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  • I assume you are talking about the LCB bridge, as seen on the top of the RAMPS in attached image. Ignore it. It comes with the package but is meant for hooking up the LCD to a RAMPS board. The KFB already has the two black connectors present on the board.

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  • Smooth rods: at least 310mmScrew rods: at least 300mm

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  • The KFB board has a heater0 and heater1 output for that purpose. I've never worked with dual extrusion but the configurations should be fairly straight forward. I believe the only thing in the configuration.h // This defines the number of extruders// :[1, 2, 3, 4, 5]#define EXTRUDERS 2

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  • You can scale the Y to any length as long as you scale the linear rail along with the aluminum extrusion. One thing to keep in mind though is that the entire bed currently pivots on a single rail block. having a bed 500mm long might over reach the boundaries. You could consider adding a second block but I don't know if you can get a carriage with connections for two blocks. Don't try to scale the X axis any longer as it would put way too much strain on the cantilever pivot point.

    Thx!! fixed it.

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  • thx, it's hard to keep up with the vendors coming and going. I've updated the links in the instructabe

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  • yes, unfortunate the seller quit his job. I've updated step 12 and here are some other links for the carriage:https://www.ebay.com/itm/3DPOWER-ALUMINIUM-Y-carri...https://www.taralu.net/products/tevo-tarantula-alu...You can find your own if you search for Tevo Tarantula Y Carriage

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  • I could turn on international shipping (I assume you are referring to the eBay set). That said before you purchase, check that you can get the proper aluminum extrusion (1010 which is 1.5"x1.5"). It is my understanding it is very hard to find outside the US

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  • Yes that is the proper board you've selected. I've created a video on how to setup this board for the C3Dt/c here: as for your steppers not moving properly and display not working, that would be most likely related to the setup (not the board selection). I'd need more information on how to help with that (LCD type, stepper type, configuration.h)

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  • I can't figure out why, but my Delta also prints better than my CoreXY. I wouldn't throw the 500mm out the window (I've saw a 30ft high Delta at MRRF last year). But you may have to so some research on the arms. The largest stock ones that Filastuder sells are 400mm. You would have to do some research there. You'll also have to look into a 32 bit controller. I've always been a Marlin supporter but, man do I love my new Duet Wifi. As for stability, think big. My Delta is bolted into the wall for additional stability. Look forward to what you come up with!!

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  • Nothing is impossible but I with that bed size your arms would get very long. The recommended minimum angle I believe is 20 degrees (I go lower than that) but it will always mean your arms will be longer than 500mm (mine are 360mm). It also means your rails need to be 500mm longer than your print height. I you took my Printer's rails at 1360mm you would achieve a print height of about 800mm. That Printer would take up a lot of room. A coreXY maybe a good alternative here.

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  • Eventually yes. I still have to put out my CoreXY here as well. Too many printers too few days. I'll be presenting my Delta at a Maker Faire in a couple of weeks and then MRRF2019 end of March. I hope to find some time after that. Heads up, this is not a budget DIY (it's already up to $2000)

    full specs: Build Volume: 330mm DIA x 1245mmLinear rails SR15 (Genuine THK)6mm Cast Aluminum heated bed (110Volt)Duet Wifi PanelDue 7iDelta Smart Adapter with E3D heatsinkBondTech BMG extruderBuildTak Flex Plate System (spring steel on magnetic bed)360mm Arms with mag balls Parts coolingTemperature driven controller cooling (of both TMC drivers and Controller)MeanWell 24Volt Power supplyFlying extruderNema 23 Stepper motors1515 extrusion FrameClip on wheels for easy transportationMacro operated adjustable bed

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  • Core3D commented on 陳亮's instructable Progressive Detail Moon Lamp

    Yes!! https://youtu.be/m6DoqKYnRkw

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  • to save you some time. I started with Marlin 2.0 yesterday and found you HAVE to use Arduino IDE 1.9 beta (with 1.8 you get compiler error)

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  • I might be a bit out of my league here as most of my printers only have 1 z-axis motor and the one printer I built using two Z motors ran off of one driver. In Marlin 2.0 the configuration_adv.h has several settings around the dual driver (for all axis). Some of them seem to deal with synchronization issues.//#define Z_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERSIt also has an option (I believe this is new) for auto alignment for the two z-motors. //#define Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGNThis last setting is new from Marlin 1.9 so it may be addressing some of the issues you're dealing with. There's an interesting read on dual drivers for Z here: https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?262,648000 This article pre-dates some of the new setting in Marlin 2.0.

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  • Core3D's instructable Building a 3D Printer's weekly stats:
    • Building a 3D Printer
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  • Core3D made the instructable Print Your Own Moon
    Print Your Own Moon

    Took 70 hours to print but it came out nice https://youtu.be/m6DoqKYnRkw

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  • Core3D commented on 陳亮's instructable Progressive Detail Moon Lamp

    50 hours in, 17 to go. Dropping the light in prior to finish so hopefully I can get away with an 8mm hole

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  • The small clips are all there. Laminate Prusa Frame has 4 and it needs to be cut twice, making it 8. The endstops are all attached to left over pieces. The X Axis.dxf has a few spare pieces that have the 8mm hole and screw hole. These were used for the z-axis end stop. The micro switches themselves are hot-glued to the the plastic (crude but effective). I'll add some images as soon as instructables lets me (current crashes everytime I try to add images here. The LCD case was the very first 3D print made with this printer (not needed to operate). Here is one of my models you can use that will fit the LCD https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3078866

    here are the image of how the endstops are glued using scrap piece of acrylic

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  • send you a message, here's the video of all 4 outputs running (bed, 2 hot-ends and pwm fan) https://youtu.be/hSC-RBbFXTU

    I currently have one spare card and I have had trouble with one of them (out of 5) with the same issue. I will have to take one out of one of my other printers so I'll have 2 to run some experiment. I'll try this ASAP.

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  • Sweet. The image I posted in my reply does most of the same, TMC2130, 24Volt, Inductive sensor, Parts cooling. Instead dual extruder I have controller cooling (wheneven drivers power up the board is cooled). Hope you have better luck with stallgaurd than I have (I use it on my Duet Wifi on a different printer. Takes a lot of tweaking to find the right speed/current/sensitivity to get it to stop). Keep me posted on the dual extruder

    On my current CoreXY I have all 4 pins in use but not for dual extrusion. I have Hot-bed to bed, HEATER0 to hot-end1, HEATER1 to controller fan and fan to cooling fan. Do you have the board or are you considering to get it? I'm just thinking that if you set:#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MKS_GEN_L#define EXTRUDERS 2It should turn HEATER1 to your second hot-end.

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  • My apologies, since this was about adding the parts cooling fan and since every printer should already have a hot-end fan I didn't go into where the Hot-end fan goes. In most printers the Hot-end Fan is always on. For a RAMPS board that means it's connected to the two pins in the yellow circle. The parts cooling fan is connected to the remaining D9

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  • There are 2 m3 25mm hex socket screws through the matching holes in the extruder bracket with nut in the back. The timing belt is simply folded around these two screws and tightened with the little plastic clips. I hope the attached images clarify

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