LieDar is a fake lidar sensor that you can attach to the top of your car to instantly turn it into a self-driving vehicle. Whereas some companies have spent millions of dollars developing the technology to have conversations about the future of transportation, you can butt in for a mere fraction of the cost. To join the multimillion dollar conversation all you need is a 3D printer, and a little gumption.
When your car sports fashionable technology you can experience first-hand what it is like to be a leader in innovation. Everywhere you go people will stop dead in their tracks in wonder and admiration. Children will look back and remember the day they first encountered a self-driving car -- your self-driving car! Overnight you can go from merely being a terrible driver to a well-respected and beloved ambassador of the future.
Impress your neighbors. Meet new people. Become more attractive to members of all sexes. Own the road! The LieDar can do all of this for you and more. Retrofit your car today!
Step 1: Get the Parts
You will need to get:
(x1) 12V geared motor (the geared motor I used was surplus and no longer available)
(x1) D-battery holder (can put two in parallel for more dependable results)
(x1) 3/8" i.d. shaft collar
(x5) 3/4" x 6-32 nuts and bolts
(x1) 1-1/2" x 6-32 bolt
(x1) 30-nf 3M contact adhesive
(x1) Disposable paint brush
(x1) Roll of painter's tape
(x1) Krazy glue
You will need to 3D print:
(x1) LieDar Top and Rubber Cover (printed as assembly - 1 piece - using an Objet)
(x1) LieDar Top Plate
(x1) LieDar Base (model needs to be modified to accommodate your motor)
(x1) LieDar Base Plate
(x1) LieDar Front Insert
You will need to acquire and/or (laser) cut:
(x1) 4.725" x 6.3" x 1/8" radiant acrylic panel
(x1) 4.725" x 6.3" x 1/8" translucent acrylic panel
(Note that some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This does not change the cost of the item for you. I reinvest whatever proceeds I receive into making new projects. If you would like any suggestions for alternative suppliers, please let me know.)
Step 2: Acrylic Cover
Tape along the outside of the clear acrylic panel and the front insert, leaving 1/4" of surface area exposed along the outside borders.
Brush on contact adhesive and wait for it to dry. Once dry, peel the tape away.
Line up the two objects perfectly and then stick them firmly together.
Step 3: Radiant Backing
Cover the back side of the front insert in contact adhesive.
Cover the outside of the radiant acrylic panel with contact adhesive.
Wait for the contact adhesive to dry and then stick the two together.
Step 4: Install Fake Lens
Cover the inner rectangular frame of the top assembly with contact adhesive.
Also cover the edges of the lens assembly and 1/4" of the outer border with contact adhesive.
Wait for it to dry.
Put the lens assembly inside the top assembly, and then push it firmly into place.
Step 5: Insert Motor
Push fit the geared motor into the base assembly.
I left a few bolt holes around the edge of the motor in case I needed to attach a mechanical bracket to hold it firmly in place. I ultimately found this unnecessary.
Step 6: Prepare the Top Plate
Insert your shaft collar into the opening in the top plate. Make certain that the set screw is facing outwards so that it can be tightened.
Step 7: Connect
Push the top plate down onto the motor shaft such that the bolt hole in the top plate lines up with the split in the motor shaft.
Insert a 1-1/2" bolt through the bolt hole such that is passes through the split in the motor shaft.
Finally, fasten the top plate in place by tightening the set screw.
Step 8: Connect
Pass a bolt through the hole on the underside of the top assembly. Place a little crazy glue on a nut, and then twist it onto the bolt.
Pull up on the bolt, until the nut is pressed against the inner lip of the top assembly. When it seems like the glue is dry, untwist the bolt from the nut, leaving the nut glued in place.
Repeat this process for a number of the mounting holes.
When done, press fit the top plate in place, and then twist the bolts into the holes that have mounting nuts.
Step 9: Solder
Wire the red wire from the D-battery holder to one terminal on the motor and the black wire to the other.
To give your assembly a little more "umph" and ensure consistent operation, you can wire the battery holders in parallel (red wire to red wire - black wire to black wire).
Also, if you later decided that you don't like the direction the top assembly is spinning, just reverse the wiring to the motor and it will spin the opposite direction.
Step 10: Battery
Insert the battery and the base should start spinning.
This makes the next task a little trickier.
Step 11: Close
Install the base plate by lining up the top and bottom mounting fixtures and pressing the two together.
Screw bolts into the central mounting fixtures.
It helps to lift the (upside down) top part off the table so that part is spinning instead of the base part. It is hard to screw bolts into a spinning object.
Step 12: Now What?
Now you need to figure out a way to affix it to your car.
FAT Lab mounted this using an impromptu roof rack made of PVC, particle board, and ratchet straps. I recommend doing something a little classier if you have the time and the means.
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