Introduction: Make Your Garage Energy Efficient. Easy Install of Radiant Barrier Insulation to Garage Doors.
I needed to "fix" a failed fiberglass insulation kit for garage doors from Owens Corning. Found the solution at one of the local big box home improvement stores with the Reflectix brand.
The panels in the failed fiberglass kit were only 22" wide and 60" long and needed a peel-n-stick plastic mount accessory centered to hold it in place. However it drooped and was unsightly.
Step 1: Cleaning Preparation and Cutting Tools.
The radiant barrier rolls were 24" x 10' . Standard size of each panel row for the garage door. I used alcohol poured into a plastic spray bottle to clean the surface for better adhesion of the Scotch Super Adhesive 77 spay (or double-sided tape). Box cutters and scissors worked well for cutting slots for door hinges and excess material length.
Step 2: Clean Surface. Align. Spray Adhesive.
Spray and clean the panel surfaces. Unroll the radiant barrier and align. Spray both surfaces of the garage and insulation with adhesive. (An extra set of hands are best for this step but not required) But since I did it solo, I sprayed and pressed a short unrolled length at a time, instead of pre-spraying the the whole surface sections and pressing the completely unrolled insulation in place.
Cut slots for hinges as the barrier insulation is applied and cut off any excess on the roll ends.
Step 3: Finish
Press along edges to ensure proper adhesion. Open the garage door to check proper alignment and panel separation.
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35 Comments
9 years ago on Introduction
Mine has been up for two-three years and it works well even in 100 plus temperature days. Nothing between the reflex-it and the panel.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Cool, literally :-)
What type of adhesive did you use? How is the adhesive holding up against the high temps?
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
I actually skipped adhesive. I cut mine tight enough that it stays in place by itself. It has survived so far. I bought an aerosol but realized that it might not need it so never tried. John
6 years ago
It has been three years now. How has this perfromed for you during the summer and winter months? Have any other problems with it now that it has been around awhile?
7 years ago
Does anyone one know what the cost per roll of the radiant heat rolls are. I have a double stall garage and want to do insulting, but need to get a budget together. Thanks
Reply 7 years ago
Home Depot has it on sale, today only for $15.50 24 in. x 4 ft. Radiant Barrier (10-pack)
7 years ago
Oh, so that's how you would do an insulation for a garage. I wonder though, would a garage door repair company be able to do something like that in the picture? It's something that I've been thinking about doing on my garage door.http://www.garbersofrichmond.com/Garage-Door-Services-Richmond-VA.html
8 years ago on Introduction
Nice job. Very novel use of the product and lot easier than what I did with poly faced fiberglass blankets and Tyvek.
9 years ago on Introduction
Great Project. I just finished mine. I used contact cement as the adhesive. It worked great. All hardware on each panel was removed [one at a time] , and re-installed over the insulation to hold it in place. Exception was the bottom corner where the tension cable attaches- I just trimmed around it.
I learned that I needed to leave a gap between the insulation on each panel [top/bottom] to avoid crushing it when the door opens.
9 years ago on Introduction
Nice post! I'm going to save this for later Visit Site
9 years ago on Introduction
Is this product removable??? We rent, and I want to be able to keep the garage cool/warm depending on the weather of course... I wouldn't want something that is permanent as the landlord may not like it...
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Yes, if you use the spray adhesive or alternatively peel-n-stick velcro. After removing the insulation or velcro, you will need to clean the residue with a product like Goo-Gone or other adhesive remover. Do not use a stronger or permanent adhesive during installation.
9 years ago on Introduction
I had a similar episode to your second picture, left door. :( If your doors have electric openers you might want to disconnect the door from the opener (Open the door and then pull the release handle that hangs at the 'top' of the door) and use a pull scale to see how many pounds pull it takes to lift the door, both before and after the insulation is installed. If there is more than a couple of pounds difference then you might want to (carefully) tighten the spring suspension until the amount of force needed to pull the door up is close to what it was before you started. This will preserve the plastic gears that are used in the electric door opener. I learned from this the hard way.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Hey rncbme just a thought.
"(carefully) tighten the spring suspension "
http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/springs.htm
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Thanks for the warning. Will leave spring tensioning to the pros. I am too handsome to be disfigured ;-)
9 years ago on Introduction
If the walls of your garage are not insulated (most builders in Texas do not insulate the exterior garage walls) then you will see little benefit to insulating the garage door!
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Because the garage doors are on the west side is why I opted to keep the fiberglass stuff for an added layer of insulation. And it is noticeably cooler now. But I expect to reapply a stronger adhesive in a couple of summers. (A small price for comfort)
9 years ago on Introduction
Have you calculated the expected change in heat loss through the door.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
I did not directly measure the temperature before the install. But it feels noticeably cooler inside now.
9 years ago on Introduction
Ha! I used almost this same method for winter/summer proofing my freakin old windows in my bedroom.