Micro Sandpaper Detailing Tool

I was sure someone had already done this or something similar, but google searches didn't reveal any and searching on Amazon only produced things such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lumberton-12301-Sanding-Sti...

Which at $30 and only very rough grit would not serve my need.

I wanted:

• Flexible tip to get into very small spaces (<1/8")
• Variety of grit size
• Wet sandpaper
• Most importantly, inexpensive

My use is primarily to do finish detailing on 3D printed SLA (liquid resin) parts like the picture above, but these can be used for any purpose.

I was surprised how well they stood up to very aggressive use. In working on the part shown, I was applying as much force as I could and did not have a single one where the sandpaper circle separated from the Q-Tip tip. Each one basically lasted until the sandpaper itself was no longer useful.

(All pictures in this Instructable are of 1600 grit wet sandpaper.)

Supplies

1. Sandpaper
   • Dry or wet - though I only tried this with wet
   • Grit doesn't matter, though rougher grit will take a toll on your hole punch
2. Hole punch
   • 3 ring binder punch works best as it catches the circles in the base
3. Q-Tips
   • Any brand, but I used the name brand
4. Hot glue gun
   • Just the standard glue sticks, nothing special
5. Plastic razor blades
   • Metal ones are fine too or a sharp flat non-serrated knife

Step 1: Creating the "Holders" and "Discs"

I chose to cut the Q-Tips in half, but they can be left whole if you choose.

Cut the discs you need from the sandpaper sheet. This 1600 grit paper didn't catch or clog up the hole punch at all.

Step 2: Preparing the Q-Tip Tips (Step #1)

This step, I found, is crucial. (I first tried simply gluing the discs directly to the Q-Tip tip but it did not hold up well at all.)

1. The goal is simply to saturate the cotton with the hot glue. Hold the gun in place, while spinning the Q-Tip.
2. Try not to add too much, the bigger the saturated tip is it will prevent the final tool from going into small corners
3. Immediately after saturating the cotton while the hot glue is still "liquidy" press onto a flat surface to create a flat spot at the tip that can also be separated from the surface later. I did these on a wooden work bench.
4. Allow to cool and completely re-solidify

You can place them perfectly vertical like I did in the second image above, or place them at an angle (you'll need something to support them from falling completely over). If done at an angle, you can create ones that can be held more like a pencil. (For ones done this way, I'd probably leave the Q-Tips whole so it can rest in your hand like a pen/pencil.)

Step 3: Preparing the Q-Tip Tips (Step #2)

Use a sharp blade (I use these plastic razor blades - link below) to gently separate the Q-Tip tips after cooling.

If any have a flat end where the surface area is bigger than the discs, you'll want to trim that excess away.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X843MN/ref=p...

Step 4: Applying the Discs

1. Flip the sandpaper discs over so that the rough side is facing down.
2. Apply a small drop of hot glue to the Q-Tip tip (not to the disc - it will just stick to the gun's tip)
3. Stick each Q-Tip tip onto a disc
4. Flip over and stick the cut end of the Q-tip into a foam block or other way to hold it vertically until the hot glue cools

ALL DONE!

Thank You for taking your time to read though my Instructable. Let me know if it was a helpful idea or if you have any questions/suggestions.

Comments

[jmcgarey]

If you do it a lot you might consider a hot-glue pot. I have one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Watt-Hot-Melt-Glue/dp/B00HCL41CS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hot+glue+pot&qid=1586443624&sr=8-3

[Icelandian]

Hmmm, that's interesting. I didn't know that was a thing. Thanks. I wonder how it would work for this though. Because when I did these, the gun actually can (to a degree) force it into the cotton. Would this soak in or maybe just coat the outside? If you can, try it out and report back with the results.

[jmcgarey]

I used a little piece of label-backer so the glue wouldn't stick to my desk.
I cut a piece of a business card to make the dot since I didn't have real sandpaper handy. The pot is nice as it has a deeper well in the center for dipping longer pieces (flower stems?) Mine is very old so I couldn't find the exact one, but it is quite handy on occasion.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFoBn1bemyQ

[Icelandian]

Cool. Appreciate you taking the time to make the short video. That is definitely the way to go if you need to make a bunch of these.
Thanks again!

[artsmithcraft]

Cool! Hand made tools are often the best. Great solution!

[Icelandian]

Thanks. I agree.

[vfx]

I keep thinking this might be improved by slipping the cut off Q-tip into a holder of some kind. Ballpoint pen or Sharpie etc. that have been trimmed and gutted. Even a mechanical pencil, pin drill. or electric eraser that all have (reuseable) mini collets. Something to give stability to the cardboard QTip and better griping for big hands.
https://www.amazon.com/WSD-Sketch-Mechanical-Pencil-Sharpener/dp/B07MY2WCTC/ref=sr_1_17?crid=1CQJPT50GYVTV&dchild=1&keywords=mechanical+carpenter+pencil&qid=1586452665&sprefix=mechanical+carpenters%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-17
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=pin+drill+hand&crid=2FX9BV66GHYFY&sprefix=pin+drill%2Caps%2C221&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_5_9
https://www.amazon.com/Tihoo-Electric-Automatic-Additional-Replaceable/dp/B075Q66BMY/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=electric+eraser&qid=1586452808&sr=8-7

[santmukh]

A 2.0mm mechanical pencil/ lead holder seems like the perfect Q-tip holder. It requires no modification as the intended lead is close to the same thickness as a Q-tip (I tried it out and it works perfectly). The push button at the back end opens the claws at the business end to allow for easy lead insertion, or in this case for the stem of a Q-tip detailing tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Technico-780-C-9-Leadholder/dp/B01N4E849U/ref=sr_1_10?crid=281ZSLB7FDFYH&dchild=1&keywords=2.0mm+mechanical+pencil&qid=1586615683&s=office-products&sprefix=2.0mm%2Coffice-products%2C154&sr=1-10

[Icelandian]

Cool. Thanks for checking on that. (I have some of those pencils, but they're stuck at work! Grrr) And I measured the Q-Tips I used (again they were the name brand) and they are 2.5mm, so you're right they probably fit perfect.

[Icelandian]

I just ordered the last one you suggested to try (though even with Prime Shipping it said 30 April delivery).
As is, even I wouldn't use just the Q-Tip version for much more than 15-30 minutes. It definitely does take a toll on one's forearm muscles if you were to do for extended amount of time.

[Zaacharia]

Wonderful idea! I have some tiny spaces in the glass that I cast; I will probably need a Dremel tool to get into some of the tiny spaces. I will probably use grits of 250, 400, & 600 (I have a bunch of grits above 1500 but those are for wooden pens (which I do not work with ?? why I bought them?? but they might be useful. I do a lot of skulls, faces, monsters, et c. with tiny spaces that need some prep work. This idea is going to let me clean up some stuff I have had around for ages - lets see if I have a pic on this pc

[Icelandian]

Cool. Not sure if you meant to attach the picture of your carbonator or not. Its funny though, I do the same thing. I have a full kegerator setup with a custom agitator for Corny kegs (on my list for another Instructable). We go through a 5G keg of seltzer every 2 or 3 days. But I use the 2 liter separately to try out flavors. Our favorite right now is to drop a few jolly ranchers into the 2 liter, let it dissolve overnight in fridge and then carbonate the next day.
(Thanks for sharing your pictures.)

[Zaacharia]

Didn't mean to :) The 20 pounder is overkill, I think it takes me 2+ years to go through it; if I had to do it over, I would get a 10 pounder that would fit under the sink!! I think of the savings: 3 (or more) liters per day, using the same 4 bottles means less plastic and transportation and the refill costs about $24.
Note that white skull's eye - I can drill some of that out but your trick will allow me to bring it back to (almost) surface-tension smooth.

[Icelandian]

Definitely cheaper than buying seltzer, huh? Plus you can adjust the pressure to how you like it. My 20 pounder lasts about 4 months. Luckily I filled it right before the lock down. Send some pictures if you can get it fixed. I'd like to see.
A comment from another person suggested using vibrating artist eraser or even a kids size electric toothbrush with the sandpaper circles. That might work better for the skull since you don't have much room to move around.

[Borderjack]

Thank you for posting good step-by-step instructions for a budget friendly sander tip. I work with 1:12 miniatures and think I will try this with my Dremel.

[Icelandian]

You're quite welcome. Post pictures if you can.

[gerhardr41]

I did almost the same but used Golf tee's. Then you can use them in a small hand drill.

[Icelandian]

Hmm. (Not a golfer) But don't they have a concave surface? Or does the hot glue kind of fill in that space?

[gerhardr41]

You cut that section off to the size of the grit paper you require

[Icelandian]

Oh, I see. Got it.