Milk Jug Skulls

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Introduction: Milk Jug Skulls

About: My wife and I have a home haunt called Terror On 20Th....I love to build props...everything from a casket to pneumatic monsters! I am also a presenter, speaker and course teacher at Halloween conventions.

These skulls are made with the gallon size milk, water or ice tea jugs! The plastic jug is melted and shaped over a master skull.

Step 1: Tools Needed

To get started on this fun project there are some things needed.

A RESIN master skull...found on Ebay.

Good heavy gloves

Heat gun

masking tape

hot glue gun with glue sticks

sponge

scissors, razor knife

regular screw driver

bowl of ice water with a towel

plastic gallon size milk jugs!!

Step 2: Master Skull & Stand

1. I use a resin skull, this one has the removable jaw. I made the stand with some scrap wood and a section of PVC...I drilled a hole through the bottom of the skull but it can just be glued onto the pvc. This stand makes all of the difference!

2. I added some fiberglass matting to the back and top of the master skull to help "beef up" the rear of the skull as we will be cutting off the plastic when it's done.

Step 3: Prep the Jug

Cut the handle off of the jug.

Place the jug over the skull with the long part covering the face as shown.

Step 4: Start Making the Skull

Using the heat gun on HIGH, 1st heat up the decals and peel off. This should only take a few seconds

In a circular motion hold the heat gun about 3 inches above the top and keep moving the gun until the jug starts to turn clear.

With your gloves on, pull the soft jug down to take the shape of the skull.

Then heat up the plastic just under the cheek bone until clear and "tuck" in with your gloved hand...repeat on the other side...the jug is now "locked-in"

Step 5: Detail Work

Now we go back to the top...heat again until clear and now use a sponge dipped in ice water to push the plastic into place...do small sections.

Work your way to the forehead, then each side.

Heat up the area above the cheek bone until clear and push the sponge in, repeat on the other side.

Now do the same under the cheek bone on each side.

heat the mouth area over the teeth and press the cold sponge over the teeth to get the basic shape of the mouth.

Cut off the extra plastic under the mouth, be sure to leave about 1/2 inch extra to fold under the teeth and base.

heat the nose area, when clear push the sponge into it.

Heat the eye socket and push the cold sponge into the socket...don't push in to far or the plastic will tear. Repeat on the other eye.

heat the teeth section and using the cold sponge, fold extra plastic under teeth.

Now heat the teeth again but use a small screw driver to push in between the teeth and get some detail!

Step 6: Getting the Skull Off the Master

I use some heavy duty scissors and cut up the back of the skull, once at the top I cut a small V shape. Now the back of the skull will open....facing the skull pull the open back towards you...the skull should "pop" off.

Now use some tape and get the seams as close together as possible. Using the hot glue, glue from the inside. Cover the whole seam with a good bead of hot glue. Now peel off the tape once the glue has cooled.

Step 7: Time to Paint

First I use an ivory flat spray paint and spray a good coat inside the skull.

I use some flat black spray paint on all of the lower sections...eyes, nose, mouth and around cheek bone.

Using some paint thinner I soak a sponge and wipe off the excess paint...I use the sponge with a scrub side...be careful not to take to much off.

Last is a coat of flat interior latex paint...brown..I brush it on and using a water soaked rag I "blot" off the paint....once almost dry I take the sponge and clean off the teeth a bit!

Step 8: Finish

The skulls are super light...IF using them outside I suggest spraying a bit of expanding foam in them and toss in a handful of stones.

I like to attach the skulls in clusters...you can use the hot glue but I use zip ties and screws so they won't come apart! HAVE FUN!!

Step 9: BONUS!!

So I have also started to make femur bone ends for a catacomb type display. Using a Bucky femur bone as the master, mounted to another stand. One plastic gallon jug will make two bone ends

Step 10:

Creative Misuse Contest

Grand Prize in the
Creative Misuse Contest

16 People Made This Project!

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139 Comments

0
doo da do
doo da do

2 months ago

Nice Skull series to follow

0
dgeer809
dgeer809

2 months ago

Love this going to try as soon as I have an empty bottle and oh a heat gun...

0
OREON_1
OREON_1

2 months ago

this is so cool! i now don't have to take my milk jugs to recycling lol

0
Jackn7
Jackn7

2 months ago

Talk about Skullduggery! :)

Arrrrh!

0
Barry6470
Barry6470

2 months ago

Bloody Brilliant so realistic to look at and the bonus of the Catacombs at the end Fantastic, blimey Halloween must be scary at your place.
Well Done, absolutely Fantastic.

0
MichaelL628
MichaelL628

2 months ago on Step 10

The long toy box you have at the end of the bed painted to look like a old sea chest when lifting the lid you see it full of skulls but it is just a removable tray hiding the toys but excellent can they be made to glow in the dark????????

0
chefspenser
chefspenser

2 months ago

Totally disgusting!!!.......................................Love it!

0
terrefirmax2
terrefirmax2

2 months ago on Step 10

I love the fact that you are recycling instead of just buying cheap decor at dollar store. Looks MUCH better too!

0
sallymcclure
sallymcclure

Question 10 months ago on Step 2

I don't see a picture of the fiberglass matting that you added to beef up the master skull.
1. What is the fiberglass matting?
2. Where did you add it? Outside?
3. How did you attach it so the heat didn't interfere?

Thanks so much!
Sally

0
Rocc01
Rocc01

Question 1 year ago

when and how do you make the jaw

0
pharojim
pharojim

Tip 2 years ago

A hair dryer should be hot enough too.

0
JasonF205
JasonF205

Reply 2 years ago

Hair dryer doesn’t come close! Gotta get the plastic hot enough to turn clear for molding.

0
tr0lldr0id
tr0lldr0id

2 years ago

Someone here notes that a hairdryer should be hot enough; I was just wondering if really any good heat source could be used. I know that both hairdryers and heat guns are used to mold foam for costume armor, and in the past, I've used a heat lamp to do the same. Do you think that might do the trick here?

0
JasonF205
JasonF205

Best Answer 2 years ago

I’ve only used a good heat gun, but you need to do small sections at a time so I’m not sure how a heat lamp would work.

0
Kkstepp
Kkstepp

Question 2 years ago on Introduction

Is the resin skull you used actually a full adult size? If so, could you please tell me which one you purchased? I've looked several places, and have only found smaller versions.

0
KimberlyP90
KimberlyP90

2 years ago on Introduction

Ingenious! I like the idea of a stack of skulls on my porch in the corner! Super spooky! :D

0
BrockGrimes
BrockGrimes

2 years ago

Wonder if these could be used as a mold for cement poured in?