A while back I installed my mitre saw into a recess in my workbench. All was good and the saw was level with the bench on either side.

I needed more bench space so I installed an electronic ram underneath and hinged the platform to allow the saw to drop below the level of the bench, like a flip-top but I'm lazy.

When it was all back together, the saw was sitting a little lower and not level with the bench, the wooden area under the saw had sagged a little due to the central support rather than screwed in from all sides. This was going to result in 1 of 2 outcomes:

all of my cuts would be a little crooked
The wood while under downward pressure would bow and bind on the blade, this is not super dangerous in the mitre saw but a bind or kickback is never desirable.

I didn't want to take it all apart again so here is how I set about leveling it all out using some threaded inserts and bolts with lock-nuts.

Step 1: How Bad Was It?

From the images, you can see that the saw was sitting several millimetres lower than the worktop and what was worse it wasn't level, this made for crooked mitres and it was dangerous to use as the wood started to bind when cutting and it collapsed into the drop to the bed of the saw.

Step 2: Preparation

I removed the saw from the recess.

When the saw is flipped over I found a nice consistent flat spot close to the mounting hole.

Using a reference distance from the mounting hole, I drilled an 11mm hole for the insert.

The inserts were threaded in from the top of the work surface, they are 10mm deep and the timber is 18mm, the reason I went from the top is that the force will be applied downwards, the insert will push against the top. If I went in from the bottom there was a risk of bursting out of the plywood under the force.

Step 3: Levelling

I threaded in some M8 bolts pre-fitted with nuts from the bottom, the nuts would be used to lock the bolt in place once the levelling was correct.

I reinstalled the saw on top and loosely fit the anchor bolts.

I threaded the levelling bolts up and down while maintaining some tension on the anchor bots until all was level in both axes.

The straight edge confirmed that I was flush with the worktop.

I carried out a number of cuts, rotating a block and cutting from different faces and testing the fit was straight afterwards. There is still some tuning required on the saw itself but this is an adjustment of the fence rather than the relationship between the blade and the bed.