Modern Rolltop Desk

A modern take on the classic roll top desk. The design is compact with clean lines, and the roll top is handy for hiding a messy desktop or a keyboard. Using the dimensions I'm providing here it will hide a Casio CT-S1.

Supplies

Tools

• Table saw or circular saw
• Chop saw is handy but not necessary
• Furniture Paint - I used Mudpaint, which is really easy to work with. But be careful with sanding, it's got lead in it!
• CNC router or hand router

Materials

• Project Panels
• 1/2" Plywood
• 1/4" square trim, 2" (for slats)
• Brass Countersunk Screws
• Brass Finishing Washers
• Wood Glue
• Nail gun / finishing nails / screws (permanent fastening method)
• Fabric- I used canvas
• Multi-Material

Step 1: Design in Fusion 360

Like practically every project I've made since 2014, I designed this one in Fusion 360. I always find it helpful to see a design in 3D before I make it, even though I don't always use CNC machines or 3D printers. In this case it was very helpful in figuring out the geometry of the roll top- radius of curves, depth of groove, number of slats needed, etc.

The video above will walk you through the general ideas. Here's a link to the file you can download: https://a360.co/3mXNF16

Adjust the parameters as needed for material thickness!

Step 2: Cut Layout

This drawing will show you where to make your cuts using 16" project panels and what all the pieces are.

Step 3: Groove Drawing / Cutting

The drawing attached in this step shows dimensions of the groove and hole locations. The video shows a time lapse of the cutting process.

Step 4: Making the Roll Top

After ripping down the 1/4"X2" trim stock to 3/4" strips on the table saw, I used a table router to round off the edges. This could be done with a corner plane or sanding, or you could skip this and just factor in a little extra space in the grooves.

I lined them up so the edges were flush on my work table, then used double-stick tape to keep them in place. I put a strip of tape along each edge to keep the glue out- this will be the part of the slats that run in the groove.

Using a putty knife I coated the surface of the slats with glue, then followed along pressing down the canvas. Once the glue cured I cut off the excess canvas with a utility knife.

I then added some beeswax to the grooves before inserting the roll top and assembling the table. This reduces friction which can prevent you from opening the roll top.

Step 5: Assembly

I assembled this desk in 4 pieces: left side (shelf), right side (blank panel), back / desktop, and roll-top. To assembled the sides and the back / desktop I used glue, a finishing nail gun, and ratchet straps. I find this is the quickest way to assembly boxy furniture, especially if you're going to paint it.

Step 6: Nuts and Bolts

The sides and desktop are connected to each other with threaded inserts and brass screws. I used brass flat head screws with flush type finishing washers where they were visible.

The handles are drawer pulls bolted onto an 1/8" plywood sandwich. There's a 3D printed part that catches the nuts, and the plywood pieces are laser cut. You could easily just drill a hole in the bottom slat and put the pull directly through it, but I Iiked the way this looked better.

I also made a 3D printed escutcheon to wrangle the cables from my keyboard.

Step 7: Finished Product, Lessons Learned

If I were to make this project again, I would have added an extra slat laminated to the slat with the hardware attached. The single thickness slat flexes a lot, which can make it a little difficult to open sometimes.

I also might make the radius of the roll top groove bigger. That would certainly make the motion smoother.

As it is, it works fine, and it looks great in our foyer. My wife put a moratorium on exposed edge plywood furniture a while back, and she likes this much better than the stuff I used to make. She is, of course, correct.