Introduction: Modular Headphone Stand

When all the audiophiles out there hear about this, it's going to be music to their ears!

This is the first fully universal modular headphone stand! The components can be reconfigured so it can be used in many ways:

  • Desktop (with base)
  • Desktop (without base, secured directly to desk surface)
  • Under desk/shelf mounted
  • Wall Mounted

I think this sounds like a great idea!

Step 1: Bending ¼” Aluminum

When my friends heard I was going to try and bend ¼” aluminum by hand they said it sounded like a stupid idea. I said “Listen, I have a great plan. I’m gonna make a thingy that will make it easy peezy lemon squeezy. Does that sound like a plan?!”

  • Start by covering the areas to be marked with a Sharpie. Then use a sharp object such a nail to scratch the layout lines into the surface.
  • Cut to length with a hacksaw and drill out the holes in the ends.
  • The bender is made from some ⅛” Steel flats, some ¼”-20 threaded rod, nuts and tubing. Drill some holes in the flat bar and assemble as shown. The hole positions will depend on the thickness of the tube walls and your aluminum stock. The assembly should be close enough together so the aluminum flat bar only just fits between the tubes.
  • Now this can be tricky so listen up! Wedge the flat bar in the bender and bend the bar very gradually. Make a gentler curve then go back to do it again slowly making the radius tighter and tighter. This was a lot easier then I thought it would be. You can use an adjustable wrench for more leverage at the ends.

Step 2: Sanding and Finishing Aluminum

  • Use a disk sander to shape the ends. Be sure to use earplugs when using power tools of you’ll get a headache. (Omg i did that ear pun by accident. I’m laughing so hard)
  • (......Serious face…..) Use a file to remove the sanding marks and hand finish with fine Scotch-Brite

Step 3: Aluminum Bar

The rods shown are made from 1” aluminum bar stock

  • Cut to length with a hacksaw then drill and tap the ends for a ¼”-20 thread.
  • Mount the rods in a drill press as shown and finish with fine Scotch-Brite

Step 4: Leather and Corian

The final assembly has leather washers between all the components. This stops the parts from scratching each other but it also has a lock washer effect and it creates a nice recessed detail.

  • Use leather punches to cut the outside perimeter and the hole in the middle
  • Cut the Corian to size with a miter saw. Heat to 300f (150c) and push the edges together in the very simple jig shown in the pictures. This will form a natural curve
  • Drill a hole in the middle and sand some flat surfaces on the bottom

Step 5: Assembly

Assemble the pieces using some ¼-20 round head machine screws. Make sure you put a leather washer between all the component.


I thought it sounded like a good idea to include a Tips section for people who might not have access to some of the tools and materials I used

  • I hear the 1” aluminum bar can be tricky to find. This can be substituted for some hardwood dowel with threaded inserts. This would look very nice and I definitely plan on making one one day.
  • You could experiment with different color leather washers for a completely different look. I can’t wait to get my hand son some red leather!
  • Bending the Corian can be tricky too. This can be substituted for aluminum or a block of hardwood. If you don't have a set of punches the leather can be cut with a sharp xacto knife.

If you have any suggestions please put them in the comments below. If they sound like a good idea I will include them in the Instructable. Any suggestions that include hilarious headphone related puns will be promptly praised.

Tandy Leather Contest 2016

Participated in the
Tandy Leather Contest 2016

Maker Olympics Contest 2016

Participated in the
Maker Olympics Contest 2016

Metal Contest 2016

Participated in the
Metal Contest 2016