Introduction: DUAL HUB 1000W ELECTRIC LONGBOARD
I'm back with maybe my last electric longboard I ever gonna build!
This time the Raptor 2 Electric skateboard really inspired me.
I wanted a board with a kicktail and dual hubmotors with a big battery lot's of range.
This time no more Lipo's because I bougth a spotwelder and used 18650 cells.
I saw a lot of good reviews from the brand Ownboard and bought hubmotors, esc and their remote.
They are not the most powerful hubmotors you can get but they are perfectly fine for me.
The hubmotors max speed is 40km/h (tested and it's true) and with my 10S4P samsung 30Q battery I get a range between 35-40km! I live in a flat area and got only bridges which are no problems for the motors, then can go up to 20% hills.
I used a special bms in this build, it has bluetooth and the battery can be monitored by your smartphone!
I spent around 650€ for this build so I'm sure that's a good price for what you finaly get.
In the pictures you can see a couple of boards which I really liked so let's start!
Step 1: Collect All the Parts You Need
Ownboard kit (without battery)
This kit is amazing, it includes everything you need without a deck and battery.
Charger, griptape, bolts, bearings, bumpers, red light, silicon wire, xt60 connector,... just everything is inlcuded and of course the motors, esc and remote.
I would really like to make my own battery with a bluetooth bms so I could easy check my battery status.
This kit also comes with enclosures but I didn't need them so I sold them.
I chose for a downhill deck with a kicktail, I just like the looks of downhill decks and the kicktail is so much fun. It's a very stiff deck so it has no flex at all.
Samsung 30Q 18650 Cells:Nkon
I bought 40 of these to make a 10S4P battery pack (37V 12Ah 444Wh)
This would give me a range of minimum 30km.
If you want a bit more range go for the samsung 35E cells, the difference with the samsung 30Q cells is they will have less voltage sag so you will get better performance with the 30Q cells, but 35E will also be great!
60A 10S Bluetooth BMS: Aliexpress
This BMS looks amazing, 60A more than enough because the esc only pulls max 18A. You can install an app on your smartphone (Android only) and check so much parameters, logs, settings,...
You can also connect it to your PC for even more settings.
Nickel strips: Nkon
Rubber sheet like 1mm thick
Bolts and Nuts
Step 2: Spotwelding and Soldering the Electric Parts
In this part we gonna make the 10S4P battery:
To be clear I used a stiff deck so I this pack won't need to be able to flex!
We bought a spotwelder to make a nice and clean looking pack, spotwelding is so much better for those cells than soldering. Soldering will heat up the cells which is bad for them.
First lay 20 cells next to each other and put glue in between.
Now it's time to start spotwelding, make sure you make a layout for your nickel strips, I always do 2 welds per cell (So you will see 4 welding dots on each cell).
After this connect the BMS to the battery, I used the bms also for discharging so add the silicon wires to the BMS and connect the output silicon wires with an XT60 connector so it can be plugged into the ESC.
Connect the charging plugs I mentioned before and the pack is almost ready!
Put the heatshrink around the batteries, It's just the same as the small heatshrink for wires. I used a hair dryer to shrink the plastic wrap.
The battery part is done, let's go to the next step.
Step 3: Put Everything Together
After this I glued the ESC and the Battery pack in the right position. I did use a lot of glue for the battery, to make sure it won't come loose after some hard rides. In the picture you can see only a bit of glue, I used much more after it! also add glue to the sides of the pack. It's a heavy pack and it will vibrate a lot!
Easy to access
I 3D printed a piece to hide the switch, charging port and motor connector wires.
Drill holes trough the deck to attach the side rails which will hold the enlosure.
I used a sheet of rubber to make my 'enclosure' I did this for every build I made and it just works great for me!
You can always put a protective plastic layer underneed the rubber to protect your battery more.
That's it guys!
Step 4: Pictures of My Final Creation
I really love this build!
Never had problems until now, I have ridden for like 500km and it's just so much fun!
The battery has like almost no voltage sag (max 2V) because the esc only pulls 24A which is no problem at all for the batteries.
Even somethimes offroad is actually pretty fun and no problem with the big wheels.
This was my build, hope you guys enjoyed it!
3 years ago
Ownboard hub motors are 250w each so its 500w board not 1000w. (I know i have 2 ownboards)
Reply 3 years ago
I have a smart bms inside so I can check the max current.
The max current is 24A so 24A*40V (full battery sag inclusive) = 960W
So I pull max 960W out of my battery.
How do you measure your 500W if I may ask?
4 years ago
on your previous project could you send me a better picture of your wiring on the bms with the lipo battery
4 years ago
Very powerful, how many kilograms is this, is it fast?
Question 4 years ago on Step 4
How many kilometers does it last?
4 years ago
Okay here I am again haha, I can better contact you on the forum but anyways:
Do you have a link where you have bought the rubber sheet from? I want to make an enclosure with that stuff
4 years ago
Hi Bart Roosen, again a super nice board you have made!
I live in the Netherlands and like the deck you have choosen, how much have you spent on it in total? because was the shippin cost high?
Reply 4 years ago
I've paid around 80€ in total.
Yeah shipping costs are around the same as the price of the deck :o