Hi everyone!

I decided to make a new and better electric longboard this year. I really enjoy this way of cruising around and building E-SK8's has become an addiction to me.

I still love the looks of boosted board but they are just way to expensive for me.

Before I start I will explain some of my goals:

First of all, I wanted to make an Electric longboard as thin as possible, again in this build I used separate Lipo cells and made a very thin battery pack (18mm) so people won't see it from the side that it's an Electric longboard.

The second thing is the power, I would like a longboard with a power around 1500W, The motor can handle around 2000W but I use a 10S esc which will limit the current and output around 1500W max.

If we talk about speed, I theoretically calculated the board at about 32km/h so I would practically guess about 30km/h. And in reality I have tested it on the smoothest road in our town and I can hit this 30km/h max speed so that's perfect. My plan was to upgrade the motorpulley later for a higer topspeed because mostly I like speeds around 40km/h but because this board is much shorter I thought let's start with 30km/h.

The battery with 185Wh will give me a 16km ride.

I made the deck by myself and it was actually not that hard to make.

All the electronics are hidden into the deck to give it a clean look.

In total I have spent like 450€ for every single part.

I think you know enough information to start the explanation how I made my Electric longboard.

Step 1: Collect All the Parts You Need

What do we need?

Keda - 190KV Motor:Hobbyking

This motor will fit perfectly on the hobbyking motor mount and will without sensors so perfect for the esc I mentioned below.

I used another motor (Turnigy D5035-125KV) but don't use this turnigy motor in combination with the speed controller I mentioned in this instructable. the motor is made to rus with sensors and the esc don't support this. If you want to use his motor you will need to use a VESC.

ESC 10S:Banggood

These esc's are very easy to use.

Transmission E-SK8 kit:Hobbyking

This includes Wheels, Motormount, Pulleys, Belt so everything you need for a good price.

I bought seperate parts but this kit looks much better, like the pulley which will fit perfect on the wheels.

Trucks: Caliber II 10" 50 Degree (Just google for them)

You got a lot of choice, you can go for the trucks hobbyking are selling but their bushings are crap so make sure to replace them.

I went with original Caliber trucks which are just awesome

You can also go for Caliber Clones which are cheaper but same story as the hobbyking trucks, their bushings are crap so just replace them and they will be fine.

Lipo battery:Hobbyking

The most easy option is to buy seperate cells or make a 18650 battery pack if you got a spotwelder.

I made my pack with hobbyking multistar batteries I had laying around and dissasembled them to get seperate cells and made a flat battery pack out of them.

10S BMS:Ebay

A BMS makes charging your board so much easier.

This BMS works fine when you bypass discharging, it will balance all the cells perfectly while charging.

10S 4A charger:Aliexpress

I used this charger, there are a ton of other options and charging currents so I should stay below 8A charging current for those lipo cells.

XT60 connectors:Ebay

12AWG Silicon wire:Ebay

Rubber sheet like 1mm thick

Bolts and Nuts

Wood and glue to make the deck

Step 2: Make the Longboard Deck

Wood Glue

First I glued 3 pieces of wood together and bent them slightly.

Cutting, Drilling and Milling

After drying it for a day I cut the wood into the right shape and also drilled the holes to mount the trucks. My father milled the deck underneath so I could "hide" the batteries and electronics in there.

Sanding and adding Varnish

After sanding the deck I varnished it to protect the wood.

Griptape

The last step is adding griptape to the deck.

Step 3: Solder the Electric Parts

Solder and make the battery pack

First you need to know how to connect the batteries, so we are going to make a 10S battery pack. This means 10 cells will get connected in serie which will make a voltage of 37V (3.7*10)

Connect the BMS to the battery

I only used this bms to charge and balance the batteries. So the output power of the batteries is not lowered by the bms output because I don't use the output of the bms. This is used a lot to give the motor the full power that the batteries and esc can deliver.

Charger

Solder the right charging plug to the charger and BMS. I 3D-printed a small holder to put the charging port into the front truck so it's very handy to charge the board.

Step 4: Put Everything Together

Gluing

After this I glued the ESC and the Battery pack in the right position. I did use a lot of glue for the battery, to make sure it won't come loose after some hard rides.

Easy to access

I 3D printed a small piece so I could put the charging port into the front truck.

I made a hole into the rubber to plug in the battery into the esc and in my opinion it is a easy and clean solution. Finally I tightened every bolt with locktite to make sure they won't come loose.

I added a heatsink to the esc and used a layer of termal paste, the heatsink gets airflow when riding and keeps the esc cool.

I also 3D printed a small holder for the power switch and glued it to the deck.