Introduction: Patio Awning (Pergola Type Thing)

About: I live with my wife and children in Fort Worth, TX. We enjoy day-trips and junk stores. I'm a firm believer that homemade food tastes better and I love to try new recipes. When I can, I like to head out to the…

I've wanted to build a pergola on the back of my house for a long time. However, i didn't want the same cookie cutter awning that everybody has in their backyard. I wanted something a little different.

As always, thanks for reading!

Step 1: Design

I started with a pretty standard layout. The patio is roughly 19 feet long. I wasn't going to build one that big though, as I was on a bit of a time crunch, and I wanted to leave part of the area fully exposed to the sun.

Eventually, I settled on an outer frame that was 16 feet along the front and extended 10 feet from the eaves.

I also decided to use a slightly different material for the rafters, emt conduit. I went with emt because it was less expensive, lighter than wood, and I kind of like the mixed texture of metal and wood. The conduit I used is 3/4" by 10 feet long.

Additionally, because of this design, I can push the fabric back to the eave if I feel like getting some sunshine.

Step 2: Build (Part 1)

All wood used in this project is pressure treated pine.

I installed the ledger board on the house first, making sure it was level. I also made sure to drive 3" screws in the end of the roofing rafters for a little extra security. While the whole thing is technically lighter than an all wood pergola, it still fairly heavy.

I used joist hangers on the outside edges, reinforcing all four corners with nail plates. Every little bit of extra security helps.

The support poles are 4" x 4"s that I secured to the lower deck with post brackets, both below and behind.

Afterwards, I cut the excess off with a handsaw.

Step 3: Build (Part 2)

I installed 2" x 2"s along the inside of the frame and drilled holes for the emt ends to slot into. To prevent them from slipping out, I used self tapping screws through the bottom of the 2" x 2"s.

Because of the support posts, the rails closest to the ends ar 5" from the inside corners. The rest of the rails are space 18" inches apart.

Finally, I used aircraft cable, eye hooks, and turnbuckles to prevent side to side motion.

Step 4: Shade Time

A few years back, I purchased a very large painters canvas to use as a makeshift shade cloth one summer. It was taken down after a couple of months and stored in the garage. Luckily, I was able to utilize it for this project, as it was exactly the right size for the largest part of the awning.There were a few tears around the grommets, so my wife was kind enough to reinforce the tears and add more grommets.

Because of my roof line's shape, I had to get a second smaller drop cloth for the remaining section. This one got the same treatment as the first (grommets, etc.).

The plan is to weave the fabric in and out of the poles and secure the grommets to the rails with sturdy metal curtain rings.

Step 5: Finish Work

After the wood has dried sufficiently, I plan to stain it a similar color to my fence.

As I stated before, the canvas is woven through the conduit.

Aesthetically, I think it works. At least, it work for me and my wife.

Thanks for checking out my Instructable!