Introduction: Portable Led Game System
This is a really easy to do video game system with a LED screen.
I made it trying to keep it as tiny and cheap as possible.
It uses only one IC, a PIC16F628A and 9 bipolar transistors, has 4 buttons for control and a swich for turning it off.
It also has a tiny speaker for making some sounds.
The power is given by four ni-mh batteries, and the consume is so reduced and you will keep them charged for a long time.
Games: So far I have only programed three games but I gonna do more in the near future (see steps 9,10,11 and 12 for more info about the games).
I hope you like this instructable and make your own portable game system.
Ps: I am from Argentina so let me know for any grammar mistake.
...
...
Step 1: Stuff You Need
It just use some electronic components, most of are them recycled.
Transistors: Use 9 transistors BC548 or similar.
Even 2N3904 can be used but their terminals are opposite, very careful when soldering if you choose these ones.
LEDs: they are at the forefront of this project. Only the four lower LEDs are RGB, the rest are common red LEDs.
If the light is different from the LEDs you can diffuse then using a sandpaper.
Switches: try to get good quality switches. I used switches from a monitor for the shoulder buttons and I bought the front ones.
Resistors:
9 - 1k ohm
4 - 220 ohm
4 - 10k ohm
1 - 560 ohm
Capacitors:
1 - 100 uf
1 - 100 nf
Microcontroler: PIC 16F628A
Misc: An on/off switch, a piece of plastic, 8 screws, 8 spacers, 1 piezo transducer (the little speaker that looks like a coin).
Step 2: Making the Control Board
To make the control board I used the method of the ironing.
The tracks are thick enough to not have any problem and allow you to use any glossy paper.
The last image will help you locate the components.
Pdf file is ready for printing (don't use the fit to paper option).
Attachments
Step 3: Screen Board
The screen board is made in the same way as control board.
Be careful when soldering the bridges linking the columns do not touch the tracks of the rows.
Do not drill the six holes for the columns.
Attachments
Step 4: Wiring the Boards Together
This is the most boring part of the construction process.
Use wires of about 10 centimeters long, if you use shorter wires the second part will be harder, if your wires are too long they won't fit between the two boards.
Follow the guidance of the first two images and you'll be fine.
Step 5: Connect the Speaker
The speaker is soldered directly on the copper side of using two small wires.
The image will show you how to do it properly.
Step 6: Plastic Back
The case of this proyect tray to keep it cheap and portable.
This is just made from a piece of plastic and some spacers.
First cut and drill the plastic at the size of the control board. Then put four screws and the 3 mm spacers.
Now we have to paste the speaker, I used two sized tape for keeping it firmly pasted to the plastic sheet.
Cover the speaker with electrical tape and insert the control board.
Put the 8 mm spacers, then the screen board and finally the last four screws.
Step 7: The Power Supply
The system is powered by 5 volts.
I use 4 x 1.2 volts my-mh with a battery holder. Consumption is low and the batteries will last for a long time.
You can try any other type of power supply like a 9 volt battery and a 7805, or even use a rechargeable Li-ion battery.
Step 8: Programming
For programming the pic I used a JDM programmar, which is really cheap and easy to make and the WInPic800 software which is free.
Any game and aplication requires the PIC to be reprogrammed.
The HEX file in this step allows you to test if the screen works well.
...
...
Attachments
Step 9: Game 1: Led Racer
Attachments
Step 10: Game 2: Simon Says
The classic game Simon Says.
This time in a monochrome version.
The aim of the game is to repeat the sequence generated randomly.
You use the two buttons on the front and the two shoulders buttons.
You can reach a maximum sequence of 16 LEDs and then start from 0 again.
...
...
Attachments
Step 11: Unfinished Game: Roullete
Attachments
Step 12: Aplication: Counter
This is a simple application for counting events.
Pressing the left frontal botton we add one.
Pressing the right frontal button we subtract one.
Pressing the top left button sets the account to 0.
The green LED serves as an indicator of on and off.
...
Attachments

Finalist in the
Back to School Contest

Runner Up in the
LED Contest
1 Person Made This Project!
- AndreyM11 made it!
125 Comments
12 years ago on Introduction
hey brunoip , i built your game in a evening project
can you tell me if your rgb led is anode or kathode common and the config of your led , which pin is which color
cause only the lower row doesn't light up
and btw i add i third board on your led game, it hold two cr2032 in parallel, the piezo is glued and i add an ICSP connector
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
New image in step 1 with the pinout of the RGB led,
Don't forget to upload a picture when you finish it.
Regards, Bruno.
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
thank's for the reply , i have an another one for you.
the counter , the roulette and simon work's just like the video
but led racer, i can't move the green dot from left to right . is there something wrong with the hex
btw the problem i had with the 4th row is i was using a different
rgb led than yours , i have to reconfigure the led pin
and is this normal in screen test , i have the 4th row all green light up
and a red led that move from top to bottom ?
(if you want ICSP connect pin 4-5-12-13 from the pic to a jdm prog pin 4-5-12-13 it work fine for me, you might already know it)
Reply 6 years ago
hey. i know its been a long time since you commented. how do you connect the led rgb pins? i couldn't understand the circuit without the schematic for led :'(
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
Maybe there is a problen with your pic programmer because that is the biggest hex file.
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
hi, i tried my willem prog , my jdm prog , i tried ICSP , i tried on board
none of them work.. when i power it up i see brunoip intro
and after the green dot at the bottom light up , i can,t move it from left to right
i follow the test , power up the device with 5 volt , connected a external ground wire on the board , used a small +5 source with two wires , and i put pin 6 and 10 and so on... on the socket at +5 volt to test the screen , all led light up
i'm so confused about it , i tested each trace ,evrything look's fine
and like i said all the other hex work ok
6 years ago
how did you programme the PiC? isnt that HDMI usb? but it isnt in the list ?
6 years ago
can I make this project on breadboard using a 8x8 led matrix?
6 years ago
What on/off switch did you use?
7 years ago
Very nice design and implementation, thanks for sharing!
8 years ago on Introduction
very nice! if I get a PIC 16F628A will make a game that
8 years ago on Introduction
Great! Seems very fun! Congratulations!
8 years ago on Introduction
When I open winpic800 it says can't install WP800I0.sys and it won't let me program it :(
9 years ago on Introduction
La ultima imagen del paso 5 es 1:1?
The last image of the step 5 is 1:1?
9 years ago
Como programar?
9 years ago
Hola Bruno, tengo una duda, las tablas de color café son de cobre? Y esa lamina de cobre se pone en una tabla de plástico?
Reply 9 years ago
olvídalo, ya lo resolvi
9 years ago on Introduction
Puedo usar en vez de un PIC 16f628a un microcontrolador que se llama RX-2-G 90507285?
9 years ago
Hi Bruno,
First off, this is an amazing idea, and your English is very good.
Please could you tell me the dimensions (how big it is/the size) of the game system? I want to know what size board to get.
Many thanks,
Rishi
9 years ago
Hey I saw this other guy or the same guy idk but he made the same thing but with 2 games on it but you had to reprogram it to change it.