Introduction: Potting Table With Sink

I built a 2' x 8' potting table with sink several years ago BIE (Before Instructable Era). There were no photos taken during the assembly but I think the step-by-step directions with the current photos will do. 

This sink has proved indispensable in keeping mud and dirt out of my house. I use it for hand washing, cleaning mud off boots, and cleaning bird feeders, flower pots, tools, etc.

Step 1: Background

Here's the boring background story. You can skip down to the materials list in the next step and you won't miss anything important but I do make a few references.

It all started when I asked a contractor friend to save me a stainless steel sink the next time he rehabbed a kitchen. A few weeks later, I arrived home to find in my driveway, a sink – complete with faucet, attached to an 8 foot section of laminate counter top.

I supported it using “L” brackets and 2x4's for legs. I hooked up the faucet to my outdoor faucet using a washing machine hose and an adapter. The drain was (and still is) hooked up to the french drain bucket.

By the next year the the elements had taken their toll on the counter so the braces and decking boards were substituted.

A few years later the faucet died so I switched to copper pipe.

A few years after that I found a great deal on the laundry sink.

Step 2: Materials & Tools

Materials List:


(4) 4” 'L' Brackets
8' 2x4's Pressure Treated
8' 5/4x6 Decking Boards Pressure Treated
Screws (2 1/2” deck screws worked for me)

ld sink
Various lengths of 1/2” copper tubing, elbows, a “T” and a shut off valve
I also have a hose adapter soldered on the end

arious drain components
(1) 5
gallon bucket with lid
PVC pipe, elbows as needed

ool List:

For the Counter:

Circular Saw
Screw Gun

For the Water Supply:
verything you need to sweat pipes
Whatever you may need to attach a sink faucet to a hose fauce

For the Drain:
Adjustable wrenches
Half inch drill bit (for the bucket)
Two inch drill bit (for the bucket lid)
PVC pipe cleaner and cement

Step 3: Install Brackets

Screw the 4 “L” brackets to the side of the deck making sure they are level with each other, and about 3” lower than you want the height of the sink.

A comfortable work surface is 34-36 inches from the ground for most people.
IMPORTANT! Leave at least 36” between the center brackets for sink clearance.

Step 4: Cut/Install Counter Supports

Cut a 2x4 into four 24” lengths.

Take one and place it on top of a bracket, perpendicular to the deck and screw through the bracket into the 2x4. Repeat for the other three brackets.

Step 5: Measure & Cut Legs

Cut another 2x4 in half.

These will be the legs and they'll be installed under the middle 2x4's you attached to the brackets in Step 4. Put a level on one of the 2' 2x4's and stand the leg up next to it. Mark the leg where it meets the level 2x4. Cut the leg 1 3/4” shorter than the mark.

Repeat for the other leg.

Step 6: Attaching the Legs

It's probably easier to look at the picture and see how it's assembled than it is to figure out from the written instructions.

Basically, the 2 legs are attached to the 8 foot 2x4 (2 screws through the 8 footer into the top of each leg). The 8 footer goes under the four counter supports (2 screws through each counter support into the 8 footer).

Step 7: Counter Top Deck Boards

Lay a deck board on the front edge of the supports. It should be directly above the 8 footer. Temporarily attach the board to the center supports only (one screw in each will do.)

Place the other three deck boards behind the first, spacing them evenly front to back, also make the ends even with each other (trim if necessary). Temporarily attach these boards as you did the first.

Step 8: Sink Cutout

If you have a template for the sink, great.  If not, you'll have to measure carefully and mark those measurements on the deck boards. You may be able to cut the center boards with a circular saw or jigsaw while in place . If you choose to do this, screw the boards to all four supports (2 or 3 screws per support).

Remove the front and rear boards and make the cuts. Temporarily re-install the rear board only, then do a test fit of the sink without the front board.

I had to cut out a section of the 8' 2x4 to make the sink fit.

Once you are satisfied with your cuts, permanently install all of the boards driving 2 or 3 screws into each bracket.

Lay the sink in place. I did not attach the sink, gravity holds it in place.

Step 9: Water Hook-up

It always annoyed me that the original faucet wasn't tall enough to allow me to easily fill a watering can or a pump sprayer. I really wanted one of those restaurant faucets with the big arc and the spring but I was afraid of what would end up in my driveway if I asked my contractor friend to find one for me.

There is a hose bib on the other side of my deck.  I tapped into it and installed a second bib on this side.

With a tee, a few elbows, a shut off valve and a threaded hose adapter I tapped into the pipe under the deck and created this masterpiece. It ain't pretty but it works.

If freezing is a fact of life in your area, make sure the pipes will drain completely when you winterize.

(Every chilly day, I swear I'm going to run a hot water line out here. Someday...)

Step 10: Drain Hook-up

For the drain, several pieces of PVC pipe & drain components were needed as shown in the photo.

I used a 5 gallon bucket with a lid for a french drain. I drilled several ½ inch holes in the bottom and sides of the bucket for drainage and buried it under the deck. The lip of the bucket is about 2 inches above the ground. I drilled a 2” hole in the lid and inserted the drain pipe.

Notice that I did not put a trap on the drain. One less thing to worry about freezing.

Step 11: Footnotes

If I had built this in a weekend instead of piecemeal, it probably would have looked very similar.

What I would do different: Put the drain bucket directly under the sink to make muck clean-out easier.

Yes, I do use eco-friendly soap.