Pulsing Hubby Detector

18,920

60

27

Introduction: Pulsing Hubby Detector

This project uses an RF receiver module to trigger a pulsing LED Heart when the transmitter comes within range. I made this for my fiance for Valentine's Day this year.



I have yet to fully test the range, as I haven't actually taken the transmitter out of our apartment building since I just finished it today. The transmitter/receiver pair that I used is hypothetically capable of up to 500 feet, though that is the open space line of sight range. I haven't yet added antennas to either the receiver or transmitter box, but that should hypothetically improve the current range.

Attachments

Step 1: Tools and Supplies

Tools Needed:

Soldering Iron
Dremel
Drill (or fairly large drill bit for the Dremel)
Screwdriver

Supplies
2 LEDs (1 red for the heart, another any color for a power light for the transmitter)
Printed Circuit Board (I used 276-159 from RadioShack)
2 5v Voltage Regulators (7805 or similar)
2 9v batteries
2 9v battery clips
2 project boxes (I used 270-1803 for the receiver, and a small 3x2x1 or so box for the transmitter)
2 SPST switches (I used 275-645)
2 8 pin DIP sockets (I used 276-1995)
2 PIC 12f683 (you can get a few of these as a free sample from Microchip)
2 Resistors (value depends on the LEDs you use, somewhere around 100ohms for typical LEDs from the 5v regulated voltage)
A small piece of plastic (preferably cloudy, or translucent)
wire
and last but most importantly
RF transmitter and receiver (I used RF-KLP-434 from Sparkfun, which was 11.95 for the pair)

Step 2: Breadboard Testing

I set this up as a simple circuit on two breadboards (some people on the Sparkfun forums reported having problems getting the receiver/transmitter to work if they were only a few inches apart.)

The RF modules work fairly simply. You just provide them voltage (around 5v for the receiver, and up to 12v for the transmitter) and the signal on the transmitter's data pin is replicated on the receiver.

In my circuit the data pin on the transmitter is being driven by an output on the PIC. I intend to work more on the PIC program to provide an actual data protocol, but in order to actually get this done this weekend, the transmitter PIC currently just sends a high signal for 500ms, then goes low for 500ms, and repeats as long as it's switched on. There is an LED attached to the output pin to give a visual feedback of the pulse so you know the circuit is working.

The receiver is equally simple at present. The data pin goes to an input on the PIC. The PIC waits for a high signal, then pulses the LED as long as the signal is high. When the input signal is low, the PIC waits for 500ms, then polls the input again.

Here's the code for now: *NOTE* The actual loop to make the LED pulse was taken from an example on the Sparkfun forums by user cheesy and just modified to make it run slower

Transmitter:
#include<12F683.h>

#use delay(clock=4000000,int=4000000)
#use fast_io(A)
#fuses nomclr

void main()
{
set_tris_a(0);
while(1) {
output_high(pin_a4);
delay_ms(500);
output_low(pin_a4);
delay_ms(500);
}
}

Receiver:
#include<12F683.h>

#use delay(clock=4000000,int=4000000)
#use fast_io(A)
#fuses nomclr

void main()
{
unsigned int i, j, k, step;
set_tris_a(0);
while(1) {
while (input(pin_a3)) {
step = 1;
j = 0;
do
{
for(; j < 100 && j >= 0; j += step)
{
for (k = 0; k < 10; k++)
{
OUTPUT_HIGH(PIN_A1);
for (i = j; i != 0; i--);
OUTPUT_LOW(PIN_A1);
for (i = 100-j; i != 0; i--);
}
}
step *= -1;
j += step;
} while (j > 0);
}
delay_ms(500);
}
}

Step 3: Assembly (pt 1)

I assembled the transmitter circuit first. The connections are fairly simple.

The +9v lead from the battery goes to the switch, which goes to both the transmitter (to run it straight from 9v) and the 7805 voltage regulator. The regulated voltage goes to the PIC.

Pin 2 of the PIC goes to the the LED (via a limiting resistor) and the Data pin of the transmitter.

When the switch is flipped on, the LED begins to blink (every 1/2 second) and the transmitter begins transmitting.

I've left the antenna pin unconnected for now, but I may add an antenna.

Step 4: Assembly (part 2)

The receiver is a similar circuit.

The +9v goes to the switch, then to the voltage regulator. The regulated 5v goes to the PIC and the receiver. The data pin of the receiver goes to pin 4 of the PIC.

Pin 6 of the pic is connected to the LED (should be through a limiting resistor, which I forgot on the first go around, I'll have to add it in later.)

Step 5: Final Assembly

I drilled holes in the cases for the standoffs to hold the circuit boards, and in the sides of the boxes for the switches.

I used the Dremel to cut out a heart shape on the top of the receiver box.

The plastic I used to cover this was just a thin scrap from a package. I used some coarse sandpaper to scratch/distress the plastic so that it wasn't completely clear, and would diffuse the LED light a bit. I then glued this piece of plastic to the inside of the receiver lid. (the light looks better than it does in the pictures, it diffuses fairly well through the plastic)

Closed up all the boxes and tested it out.

Step 6: Testing and Future Directions

Right now I can get maybe 90-100 feet of range with the receiver sitting in my 2nd floor apartment. Since the antenna pins on both the receiver and transmitter aren't connected to anything, I may try to find some small antennas to attach to them to see how much I can increase the range.

I briefly considered just using a 555 timer to generate the transmitter pulse, but decided that since I intend to improve the PIC code it would be preferable to use the PIC in both the receiver and transmitter. (also, using the 555 timer would have required a couple more components to generate the pulse)

I want to implement a simple serial ping so that I can avoid the noise that occasionally randomly triggers the receiver with the current code since I'm just checking for a high input.

Attachments

Be the First to Share

    Recommendations

    • Make It Bridge

      Make It Bridge
    • Game Design: Student Design Challenge

      Game Design: Student Design Challenge
    • Big and Small Contest

      Big and Small Contest

    27 Comments

    0
    JB95
    JB95

    7 years ago

    Cool instructable :)
    I was able to gather all required parts except for one; couldn't find a compatible girlfriend device. Where can I find one of those? o.O

    It makes me wonder how compact you could make this. It'd be great to wire into remotes, cameras, etc, with a very short range to use as a detector for when you lose that kinda stuff.

    0
    Lithium Rain
    Lithium Rain

    14 years ago on Introduction

    Could I use this to detect other rf frequency devices (like cameras or bugs or hidden cctvs)?

    0
    daenris
    daenris

    Reply 14 years ago on Introduction

    Not really. You could potentially use the receiver chip to detect frequencies within the range of the receiver (434mhz). Most devices like you mention (cameras, bugs, wireless video) work on much higher frequencies.

    0
    chaoscampbell
    chaoscampbell

    15 years ago on Introduction

    lol.... its probably my negative, untrusting mind working....... but its like a last stage emergency hide in the closet cheater alarm....lol. nice idea though

    0
    RetroPlayer
    RetroPlayer

    Reply 14 years ago on Introduction

    Perhaps I am just as bitter as you are, but that is EXACTLY what I was thinking. I would actually be offended and puzzled by receiving a gift like this.

    0
    RetroPlayer
    RetroPlayer

    Reply 14 years ago on Introduction

    Oops, still good instructable and interesting project for OTHER uses.

    0
    turgan
    turgan

    16 years ago

    wow. this is a fantastic project. i'm going to go ahead and ask it: can a non-programmer geek be able to overcome this project?

    0
    zaydenam
    zaydenam

    Reply 16 years ago

    Yeah, If you only want to make the LED pulse you can do it with a really simple 555 astable circuit. Google it find out about its schematic and formula (real simple 3rd grade stuff) and connect the output you get from your 555 oscillator to the transmitter input) And if you can just connect a 5volt supply directly to the transmitter input if you don't want a pulse. However if you want to send seial data you'll have to use a micrcontroller with SCI or if you don't want to use a microcontroller you can use the D3-6402-9 UART. Its obsolete but you can still get it from the net. Its what i'm using for my sign language glove science project at my school.

    0
    marcss
    marcss

    Reply 15 years ago on Introduction

    I may be alone here, but that sounded more like a "No," than a "Yes." =)

    0
    daenris
    daenris

    Reply 16 years ago

    That actually won't work. I tried it, and even with a pulsing input, the output just kinda flashes. The pulsing needs to be at the output. So hypothetically you could put a 555 timer on the transmitter to create a blinking effect, and on the output put a 555 timer on the receiver to create a pulse when there's a signal received.

    0
    T3h_Muffinator
    T3h_Muffinator

    Reply 15 years ago on Introduction

    If you put a capacitor across the clock pin on the 555 and ground, it might work!

    0
    zaydenam
    zaydenam

    Reply 16 years ago

    Yeah if it doesn't work like that. That's a good alternative. But why would you want a 555 on the transmitter just connect directly to supply so it always transmits in range and use the reciever output to drive a 555 oscillator.

    0
    daenris
    daenris

    Reply 16 years ago

    The receiver tends to attenuate when it receives a constant signal, so it would eventually end up losing the signal. In order to prevent that it needs a changing signal received, so you need to turn the transmitting on and off.

    0
    daenris
    daenris

    Reply 15 years ago on Introduction

    I don't have an exact breakdown by parts, but overall it was under $30. The RF transmitter/receiver were the most expensive item at around $12 (although now it looks like they're $14 from SparkFun). The project boxes were a couple of dollars each. The PICs I actually got free as a sample from Microchip, but they're likely a dollar or two from Digikey or Mouser. Any switch can be used for about $1-2. Beyond that most of the stuff was very cheap, you can get a bunch of resistors for a couple bucks and you only need two. The voltage regulators are around $1. The LEDs are cheap (again you can get a bunch for a $1 or 2). The battery, clips, and sockets are under $1 each.

    0
    sabeen557
    sabeen557

    15 years ago on Introduction

    I should make one. Plant the transmitter in my boss' truck. Really good instructable.

    0
    jarv34
    jarv34

    16 years ago

    nice! have you measured the power consumption to estimate your battery life on a single 9v?

    0
    daenris
    daenris

    Reply 16 years ago

    Not yet. If I get a chance I'll pull them open and check.

    0
    macmaniac
    macmaniac

    Reply 16 years ago

    Would it be possible for you to provide some schematics for the transmitter and receiver? Thankyou