Remote Control Camping Light

Introduction: Remote Control Camping Light

A very simple remotely controlled light , ideal for camping and outdoor activities.
It can be adapted to turn on/off 12vdc circuits

Supplies

Ipx6 junction box X 1.
Earth block X 3.
On/off switch.
1.5 mm tri flex cable
Insulated crimps
Remote control unit Inc key fob and receiver X 1
Eagle eye LED lights-as many as required.

Step 1: Collect Supplies

DC12V Relay 1CH Wireless RF Garage Door Remote Control Switch Transmitter #S4 -
These are available on eBay at around £6 each. You can decide if you require one or two remotes or more if required.

4 way earth block -costs around £2 each

Junction box- The one I chose was a SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC 10-ENTRY JUNCTION BOX WITH KNOCKOUTS GREY 150 X 105 X 80MM cost =£5.

12V DC Battery. I used a Sealed Lead Acid Battery 12V 1.2Ah 97 x 43 x 58mm
At a cost of £10

On /off switch I used a Heavy Duty Toggle Switch / Flick 12V ON/OFF Car Light SPST Missile / Water Cover
At a cost of £2-4 depending if you want the waterproof cover and missile flick cover.

Crimps- various crimps to suit such as INSULATED CRIMP BLUE FEMALE PUSH-ON 6.3MM PACK OF 100.

Eagle eye 12V DC LED Light.
- I used 10PC 12V 9W Eagle Eye White Led Light Bulb Car Motorcycle Tail Backup DRL Lights.
Cost £7 for 10


1.5mm tri-rated cable - this is easy to manipulate - I probably only used about 1 Mt in total.

Hollow pin crimps- These are ideal for the very thin LED light cable for connecting to the earth blocks.

Total cost £35-40 depending what bits you already have lying around.

Step 2: Assembly

Once you have collected all the required parts you can assemble the unit.
I drilled 5.5 mm holes to mount the earth blocks using the set screws. I set 3 blocks , one picking up the main positive from the battery.
The second picking up the main negative from the battery.
The third picks up from the normally open point on the control unit , this is made live by activating the remote control. In other words the third block is a switched positive which feeds the LED lights.
Depending on which parts you have will largely dictate how they fit in the box.
The remote control receiver is wired as per the drawing,using the
V Positive
V Negative.
Common. ( Positive )
N.O. ( normally open )
All the Negatives go to the single negative busbar.

Step 3: Notes Including Safety Notes

Remember to include a fuse in line to protect the circuit.
Also the exposed set screws on the outside of the box are positive and negative terminals. DON'T SHORT THEM OUT BY ACCIDENT.

You can add other features if required such as a usb port , voltage indicator etc etc.

You could also add LED Lights such as -12V 30cm long Single Colour Flexible LED 5050 SMD Lights IP65 WATERPROOF in COOL WHITE.
This could make a lantern type light.
For the very thin LED eagle eye wire it's handy to use bootlace crimps to get a good firm connection.

Step 4: Is It Worth It?

If you have to purchase all the bits then it's probably on the expensive side.
If you already have the parts lying around in your workshop then the cost would be far lower.
The advantages are that you can adapt the box to suit your own requirements with the possibility of adding a usb power connector to charge other devices on the go on your outdoor adventures.
You could also use the external bolts that connects the earth blocks as clip on points to power other devices , they can be constant on or switched on via the remote depending on how you connect.

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