Replacing the Engine Water Pump and Tensioner Pulley (Honda Civic D15B).

Here is how I replaced the water pump and tensioner Pulley in my Honda Civic 1999 D15B. Read this instructable first for anyone having issues taking off the crankshaft pulley bolt.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Super-easy-way-to-remove-and-reinstall-the-cranksh/

Due to the length of this job, I have posted only pics relevant to important tasks. For example the removal of spark plug wires, front left wheel, removing the accessories belts etc I didn't bother to catalog in detail. These are easy enough to do.

Read on for how I executed this semi major job on the engine.

Step 1: Removing the Accessories Belts.

The Power Steering Pump, Air Conditioner and Alternator belt all came off. With the appropriate sockets and spanners these 3 belts were easy to remove. I kept the PS belt near the pump and the alternator belt near it to avoid mixing up the belts. I needed to go under the car for the alternator belt. The AC belt is held captive by the lower front left engine mount.

Note that the air conditioning idler Pulley bracket must come out as well.

Step 2: Removing the Valve Cover, Timing Belt Upper Cover and Oil Dipstick Tube.

Fairly straightforward. Spark plug wires and necessary bolts removed. I used my cordless drill with socket adapter to remove the bolts quickly.

The dipstick tube is held by a metal clip. It comes out by a gentle wiggle and pull upward.

Step 3: Putting Cylinder 1 to TDC.

Using the 17mm socket and Ratchet I turned the crankshaft pulley anticlockwise to get the camshaft Pulley indicator UP.

Step 4: Removing the Crankshaft Pulley.

I took off the pulley bolt easily using the pulley holder tool and my 3/4inch breaker bar with extension and 17mm socket. To get the pulley off I held it with both hands and wiggled it off. I made sure to retrieve and keep the woodruff key.

Step 5: Supporting the Engine and Removing the Engine Upper Mount Bracket.

I used my car jack with a piece of wood to support the oil sump pan by raising it 1 inch. I removed the engine mount bracket.

Step 6: Remove the Timing Belt Lower Cover.

This was a bit tricky to reach all six 10mm bolts but with patience it was done.

I cleaned up the lower cover since it looked like crap. The gaskets are all worn but I had no choice but to reuse.

Step 7: Removing the Timing Belt.

To make life easy for me to reinstall the Timing Belt, I used a metal marker and put 3 marks on the camshaft Pulley plus belt. On the Crankshaft Pulley I made 1 mark and on the belt. This way for sure I will be putting the belt exactly in place.

Of course I made sure to not rotate the pulleys. The belt seems in very good condition. I took a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol and cleaned the belt thoroughly.

Step 8: Replacing the Tensioner Pulley and Spring.

The 14mm bolt in the centre of the the tensioner pulley was removed to take the pulley and spring out. The new pulley went back in the reverse order. I kept the bolt loose to allow movement of the pulley and spring.

Step 9: ​Replacing the Water Pump.

Due to the 16 year old seal on the OEM pump, I needed to tap it lightly on the point shown (near the alternator) that was held by the 14mm bolt. Four 10mm bolts also needed to come out to remove the old pump. Coolant of course leaked out. I made sure to clean out any debris I found in the pump chamber.

You can see how corroded the OEM pump is. The new one fitted back up great and I torqued the bolts to ensure a good seal. I filled back coolant and at the end of the job when the car ran with the new pump I kept filling the radiator until it was full.

Step 10: Putting Back the Timing Belt.

I used rubbing alcohol to clean the pulleys and water pump. Thanks to the marks I made on the original belt, I put it back on exactly as it was. I applied the correct tension and closed back up the engine. As you can see I made marks on the outside of the belt to count the teeth as well as measuring the width (24mm).

I made sure to do a final torque on the crankshaft pulley bolt using the pulley holder and my breaker bar after torqueing it initially to 20Nm. Basically I turned the bolt a further 90 degrees clockwise.

Starting the car and test driving was successful. No coolant leaks and engine characteristics the same as before the job.