Introduction: Repurposing Parts From a Lamp

This is a very straight forward instructable since I'm only assembling designs made by other people, there's very little of my own ingenuity here. My intention with this instructable is not so much to show it's made, but to encourage looking mundane objects with new set of eyes, to see the potential in repurposing otherwise useless objects.

Anyway I found this hideous(I'm sorry, whoever designed this, but it is) lamp at the garbage can shelter and decided to take it with me. I was after the wiring, but then it hit me: those metal rods are actually pretty useful.

I had these 3D-printed PCB-drill parts lying around for quite some time now, because I'm cheap as [insert preferred profanity here] to buy a few rods to assemble it.

So I finally got to finish that one (still missing the DC-motor though :D) and I managed to get an additional inspiration while looking some alternatives for chemistry equipment.

Long story short: We are using parts of a discarded lamp for a retort stand and a PCB drill press.

3D-Models used: PCB Drill by Geminy_Studio Retort Stand Set by Kanedias Triangular M8 nut thumb screw by Recurses

Tools used:

  • Hacksaw / Reciprocating saw
  • Power drill
  • 3D-printer
  • Tongue-And-Groove Pliers (They came in handy occasionally)and/or a leatherman multitool
  • Sharp knife (for cleaning printed parts)

Materials needed:

PCB-Drill: (Get proper instructions from the author!! I'm a hack...)

  • Threaded Rod M6 x about 130 mm?
  • Coach Bolt M6 x 100 mm
  • Threade Rod M8 x 130 mm
  • M6 Nuts (optional)
  • M8 Nut
  • Super Glue (for the M8 nut cover and to make some of the loose part firm)
  • Heat Shrink Tubing (some parts were too loose for the M6s I was using)
  • DC motor (I don't have one)
  • Spring (I don't have those either)

Retort Stand:

  • Plastic Plate
  • M8 x 40mm Hexagon Set Screws (2 for each printed block)
  • M8 Washers (I used 7 for the lulz, and because the threads weren't correct for the M8 nut)
  • Insulated Pipe Bracket M8X1-35mm
  • 1 patience

Step 1: Taking the Lamp Apart

I took the bottom part away, it was some sort of fabric made out of ickiness; I unscrewed the strain relief from the power cable and then just forcibly pulled the rest of the wires out.

When trying to remove the rods, one of them broke off and revealed threads on them. My laziness instantly took over and made me try to see if the rods would fit on the power drill; they did. So I took those rods off that way.

Step 2: Print Your Parts

Get them, print them, clean them up.

I keep a record of my prints, because I can keep track how much filament there is left so I don't have to worry about it running out in the middle of the print. The slicer gives an estimate how much filament is needed for the print, I use those values for the record keeping.

3D-printed threads can be tight so I loosen them up by screwing and unscrewing a bolt or a threaded rod through.

I also keep the excess/leftover filament (rafts, failed prints, extruder pre-heating losses, cleaning) because maybe someday I can make my own filament.

Step 3: Assemble the Drill Press

  • Cut excess from the rods (in this case the unneeded part with the threads)
  • Cut the threaded rods, I wouldn't recommend using a hacksaw that is probably a toy, like the one I had access to.
  • When putting the parts together, scroll the adjustment wheel all the way down to get the M8 nut fully in it's place. The glue its cover on top of it.
  • All the springs I could find were either too small or too big
  • The M6 threaded rod was too loose for the sprocket and the handle thingy, so I used heat shrink tubing on the part that goes into the handle thingy, and super glue on the sprocket
  • I put some M6 nuts on the threaded rod (because reasons) this is optional and probably not recommended: they probably do more harm than good.

Step 4: And Done.

Attach the handle, which in this case is the Coach Bolt M6 x 100 mm, I had to use some shrink tubing on it as well. Then there's only the matter of motor preference.

But there you have it.

NEXT STEP:The Retort Stand

Step 5: Now for the Retort Stand

Put all the ingredients on the plate and enjoy your PLA sushi, hope you are not allergic to nuts.

Step 6: Attach the Longest Rod Onto the Plate

When using a power drill, be careful that you don't go through and make a hole onto something that doesn't deserve it.

Also when drilling it is usually a good practice to let the drill do the work. This is where you use your patience, I forgot to use mine and broke a plate. Luckily I had spares.

The threads on the rod doesn't match the M8 nut, so I forced it onto the rod. It didn't go very far, so used some washers to compensate.

Step 7: Add Things to Things

Put the 3D-printed Triangular M8 nut thumb screws(They didn't exist yet, when I took the photos) onto the set screws, then screw them on the block.

Then attach a Insulated Pipe Bracket M8X1-35mm on one of the other rods, this has the same problem with the threads, use the force!

Step 8: BOOM! Congratulations, Now You're a Chemist. GG.

I will probably upgrade the base of the stand, when I stumble across something free. Another thing that I might do is making a low heat hotplate from either a coffee maker or a clothes iron (someone had thrown one against a concrete wall at a skate park, I wonder what was that about.. Anyway: I have one)

The clothes iron has a slight potential of becoming the new base, though I think the area of it is kinda small.

I was about to make a magnetic stirrer from a computer fan and two magnets, but I failed and I haven't gotten over it yet. If I revisit that project, the dimmer switch acquired from the lamp may come in handy as a speed controller.

The only real problem is the glassware, I could use beer/snapple bottles or something like that, but I think they might explode. Then again there's only one way to find out. Although lightbulbs are made out of glass, and can withstand heat, I've heard people using them as pipes for smoking stuff.. They also have a round bottom, very chemistic, such flask, much reaction. Anyway these might be some of the upcoming instructables.

NOTE: I was / am on the verge of falling asleep while making this, so I'll come fix the mistakes/typos when I've had some sleep.

Oh, the stencil on the image Organic Stencil Keychain II by 3DWaves